Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

Green Smoke · Dec 18, 2009

HempKat said:
You said it was in week 11, I presume then that's a sativa? Most hybrids and indicas finish at around 8 weeks maybe 9. You could run them longer but then you'ld end up with alot of amber trichomes which would make the high more of a couchlock high then a hybrid or indica should be.

It's bag seed so I don't know if it's sativa or not. Those leaves though have looked just like that since I flubbed the ph so long ago. No amber trichs yet, just cloudy. Once I get a few ambers I'm going to whack it. It's actualy still growing. I figure the long run has been due to the recovery time after the ph shock. What say you?

bookbinder · Dec 18, 2009

HempKat said:
Well that's somewhat better and yeah that just looks to me like a plant that's ready for harvest or close to it. Those leaves probably aren't doing much for the plant now but then again, marijuana doesn't grow indefinately once it enters flowering. So it's normal for the leaves to look pretty bad as you approach harvest. Those top leaves might have fallen off already if they were lower on the stalk. Where they are now the buds are probably helping to hold them in place.

You said it was in week 11, I presume then that's a sativa? Most hybrids and indicas finish at around 8 weeks maybe 9. You could run them longer but then you'ld end up with alot of amber trichomes which would make the high more of a couchlock high then a hybrid or indica should be.

Not looking like a sativa but a more indica dom hybrid and as it looks not quite done begs me to ask what might sound like a dumb question of green smoke but do you mean 11 wks total or flowering?

Green Smoke · Dec 18, 2009

bookbinder said:
Not looking like a sativa but a more indica dom hybrid and as it looks not quite done begs me to ask what might sound like a dumb question of green smoke but do you mean 11 wks total or flowering?

Yes, it is a clone that was only vegged until it showed new growth.

HempKat · Dec 18, 2009

Green Smoke said:
It's bag seed so I don't know if it's sativa or not. Those leaves though have looked just like that since I flubbed the ph so long ago. No amber trichs yet, just cloudy. Once I get a few ambers I'm going to whack it. It's actualy still growing. I figure the long run has been due to the recovery time after the ph shock. What say you?

I can't see some bad leaves making it take longer then normal. It should still take the normal amount of time but just do poorly. What you got there doesn't look like it did poorly, the buds are all nice and fat. Looks just about right for a SoG plant near harvest. Did you do any others with it? If so did theyall have the ph problem or was it just the one and if it is just the one that got damaged do you have pics of any of the others that weren't damaged for comparisson?

Green Smoke · Dec 18, 2009

I just got this camera or I would have lots of shots for you. Funny how this plant finished up with only 2 fan leaves, and damaged ones at that. Honestly, it's still growing so I'm inclined to let it keep growing just to see how long it will go.

HempKat · Dec 18, 2009

Green Smoke said:
I just got this camera or I would have lots of shots for you. Funny how this plant finished up with only 2 fan leaves, and damaged ones at that. Honestly, it's still growing so I'm inclined to let it keep growing just to see how long it will go.

The number of leaves is attributable to how you implied that you grew it which is SoG style (using a clone and only vegging just long enough to see new growth before you switched it to 12/12 to flower). It didn't have enough time to grow a bunch of fan leaves. When you switched it to flower during those first 3 weeks of flower that's the only time it really had to grow fan leaves. After that all efforts went to bud growth. Had you given it more veg time I'm confidnet it would have developed more fan leaves but it also probably would have grown too big for your micro grow set up.

I'm not saying you need to harvest, if you want to grow it longer that's fine. I'm just saying it looks like it's ready. I'm also saying that's how marijuana typically looks when it's near harvest. The leaves get very discolored especially if the grower flushed the soil for the last week or two (watered without adding any fertalizer). If you think it has more growth left in it then go for it. That's the problem with bagseed plants, you don't know what to expect. Although it seems kind of strange to clone a plant that you don't know what it's properties are or how good it'll end up being. Usually by the time people are growing from clone they've flowered the from seed plant and know what it's properties are

Billy Burroughs · Dec 19, 2009

Gold123 said:
From what I understand this is dried and cured bud that molded in the jar, am I correct? Water curing is for fresh picked bud before drying. I only referenced that to demonstrate h2o doesn't degrade the potency of the bud. Try some hydrogen peroxide on a few grams, dry it and see how you like it. It won't be like a complete water cure that takes a week of daily water changes with submerged bud. A few minutes in h2o2 won't wash out much taste.

ya it was bud that was completely dried now at the time i noticed the mold it was in jars the typical way i cure and dry my smoke just with all the extra stuff going on ie moving and what not it just proved to be to much but hell ill take a couple buds and drop them in the hydrogen peroxide and redry it and see how it is worth a shot its not like we are talking a half or a quarter if so id just throw it away but were more on the pound level lol but ya ill give it a shot and get back to ya

Green Smoke · Dec 19, 2009

HempKat said:
Although it seems kind of strange to clone a plant that you don't know what it's properties are or how good it'll end up being. Usually by the time people are growing from clone they've flowered the from seed plant and know what it's properties are

I only had 1 female out of 9 seeds so I cloned it and kept the seedling for a mom. This plant was my experiment. You can't see it in the pic but I supercropped it by folding it by 1/3. It had several fans at that time, all but the last 2 died in the aftermath of the ph debaucle.

HempKat · Dec 19, 2009

Green Smoke said:
I only had 1 female out of 9 seeds so I cloned it and kept the seedling for a mom. This plant was my experiment. You can't see it in the pic but I supercropped it by folding it by 1/3. It had several fans at that time, all but the last 2 died in the aftermath of the ph debaucle.

Ah okay, that makes alot more sense now. Well just keep letting it go if you're sure it's still growing, I believe you said the trichomes are mostly cloudy earlier, if so then it's got to be close. In fact some would say it's at the peak of harvest if the triches are like 90% or more that are cloudy. Those people though like the more up high that pure THC gives you. Amber triches are a degradation of THC and becomes other cannabinoids such as CBN or CBC. These cannabinoids do have an effect though and that's what gives some marijuana that couchlock effect.

gonzo` · Dec 20, 2009

I've read on a nutrient manufacturing site that phosphorous becomes immobile below temperatures of 70F and this is why you can see purple stems.. It says every time temp drops below 70F you essentially loose yield... So i've been trying to keep my night time temps at 70F and its okay BUT:

I've got not so much trich action going on... Day time temps are 80-85 with 50-60% rH... Night time is like 65-70 with rH at max! I don't want to drop my night time temps too much because I don't want to sacrifice yield but I want my trichs!

What to do?

HempKat · Dec 21, 2009

gonzo` said:
I've read on a nutrient manufacturing site that phosphorous becomes immobile below temperatures of 70F and this is why you can see purple stems.. It says every time temp drops below 70F you essentially loose yield... So i've been trying to keep my night time temps at 70F and its okay BUT:

I've got not so much trich action going on... Day time temps are 80-85 with 50-60% rH... Night time is like 65-70 with rH at max! I don't want to drop my night time temps too much because I don't want to sacrifice yield but I want my trichs!

What to do?

What do you mean "rh at max" are you saying at night the rh is higher then 50-60%? If so then you could probably improve trich production by lowering the rh to around 30% during lights out. The rh should lower naturally anyway because the room is cooler and the air can't hold as much moisture when it's cooler. If you're rh is going up during lights out it suggests a ventilation problem. Do you shut your ventilation fans off with your lights? If so then leaving them on during lights out might fix things.

Also keep in mind, the amount of triches a plant produces is also a factor of genetics. That is, some strains put out more triches then others. So if you're growing something new that you haven't grown before, it may just have less triches by design. An important thing to remember about that is, lots of visible triches does not automatically mean a strain is better or even good. There are strains out there that frost up nicely and have a decent taste and smell and yet the buzz is just average. Conversely there are some strains where the triches seem almost non existent and yet it delivers a very potent buzz.

John Denco · Dec 21, 2009

General switch from Soil to Coco

General switch from Soil to Coco

I am growing now in Coco, just four plants to start, after having grown for years in soil. I am over at the Coco thread a lot, but I have basic questions....

1. Isn't it true that everything (PH, nutes, salts,) can get screwed up quickly with coco?
2. My plants were probably root bound, just transplanted the last couple of days. I noticed this pm that they are developing yellow tips on the leaves. I think that I water more than the woman who did these clones for me.
3. I just used Ionic nutes at a fraction of the recommended dose (if I meassured correctly, 12%) last night and gave them a good dousing.

Any thoughts?

JD

HempKat · Dec 22, 2009

John Denco said:
I am growing now in Coco, just four plants to start, after having grown for years in soil. I am over at the Coco thread a lot, but I have basic questions....

1. Isn't it true that everything (PH, nutes, salts,) can get screwed up quickly with coco?
2. My plants were probably root bound, just transplanted the last couple of days. I noticed this pm that they are developing yellow tips on the leaves. I think that I water more than the woman who did these clones for me.
3. I just used Ionic nutes at a fraction of the recommended dose (if I meassured correctly, 12%) last night and gave them a good dousing.

Any thoughts?

JD

Alas I have no experience with coco so I don't know much and what I do know is second hand. One thing I know is that coco does require more watering because it's very porous and doesn't retain fluids very long. This in my mind makes it better to what's called a flood and drain system where the plants grow on a table that's essentially like a shallow tub that can be drained. The plants are placed in this tub and the tub is filled and the plants allowed to sok up the water and nutrients for a period of time and then the table is drained. The wholle cycle of flooding and draining is then done several times a day. Again though, this is something I've just heard about and not something I've done. Since it is repeated so often I think these setups are usually automated with a reservoir and pump

The only other thing I can think of is that being it's coco that's really a soiless environment so there's really nowhere for the plant to get micro mutrients (Calcium, magnesium, Iron, Copper, Zinc, etc.) You don't need a whole lot but these elements are vital to the plant's health. I don't believe Ionic has much if any micronutrients. I use Ionic and don't recall seeing any micronutrients listed on the bottle. With soil there is some traces of these things naturally in the soil but even then you need to add micronutrients to the diet if the main nutrients don't have them. So if Ionic is all you're giving them then that could be the problem. What I use to cover my micronutrients is a product from Eathjuice called Micro blast. It contains a good balance of all the micronutients you need, plus you don't need much (1 teaspoon per gallon of water) and so a liter bottle goes a long way and only costs approximately $18(US)

goneforasmoke · Dec 22, 2009

hi hempkat i'm wondering i you can tell wat my problem is i have put some pictures up if you would have a look and anyone feel free to post comments.
I'm 5 weeks into flower growing kali's and i have noticed some brown burn markings on my leaves.
new growth has come through, and no sign as of yet but im unsure what this can be,
i have checked run off and ph and everything seems fine, rh and temp is spot on.
i am growing coco, and using canna a&b, cannazym, and canna boost in my resi ph is 5.6 and ec is reading 1.4-1.6.
has anyone seen this before in kalis. and if i don't continue to see it appearing in the new growth will it be fine.
would you advice flushing them through with ph'ed cannazym in case there is any nut build up.
every water i allow 10% run off so i don't think it is nute build up.

bud wiser · Dec 23, 2009

I just started a thread before I saw this one. I'll remove it if I can assuming someone here can help me. Aside from the obvious pheno differences of taste, smell, size finish time etc. Does one plant out of a pack of seeds show it's superiority unquestionably? In other words, could two plants look, smell etc, exactly the same including tric color and amount, and one plant be way better than it's twin sister in high? Thanks in advance.

HempKat · Dec 23, 2009

goneforasmoke said:
hi hempkat i'm wondering i you can tell wat my problem is i have put some pictures up if you would have a look and anyone feel free to post comments.
I'm 5 weeks into flower growing kali's and i have noticed some brown burn markings on my leaves.
new growth has come through, and no sign as of yet but im unsure what this can be,
i have checked run off and ph and everything seems fine, rh and temp is spot on.
i am growing coco, and using canna a&b, cannazym, and canna boost in my resi ph is 5.6 and ec is reading 1.4-1.6.
has anyone seen this before in kalis. and if i don't continue to see it appearing in the new growth will it be fine.
would you advice flushing them through with ph'ed cannazym in case there is any nut build up.
every water i allow 10% run off so i don't think it is nute build up.

Well, I would try to help but I can't find the pics you mentioned and you didn't leave a link to some other thread they might be in. So without seeing them and based on what you've said I can only make a guess. One potential issue, although I don't think this is it, is that as a plant nears harvest leaves will begin to die off and can look quite bad before they actually shrivel up and fall off. Marijuana leaves are not meant to look perfectly healthy all the way up to harvest. A more likely scenario is that in the process of feeding some nutrient enriched water splashed on the leaves and the nutrients burned the leaves. A similar possibility is that if you foliar feed and did so during lights on, the beads of water acted like a magnifying glass under the bright light and literally burned the leaves.

Now there is one other thing I want to point out although this isn't related to your problem. You say that you don't think it's nutrient buildup because of the fact you allow 10% run off when watering. Allowing a certain amount of run off doesn't guarentee you won't get nutrient build up. Nutrient build up happens when you essentially feed a plant more food then it can eat. People tend to think if they feed their plants more often or give them stronger doses of nutrients, that the plants will grow bigger. It doesn't work that way. What happens is that the excess nutrients just build up in the medium and eventually creates a ph imbalance and/or nutrient toxicity. Now the run off may wash some of it out but 10% is not enough to guarentee it will get all of it. The better way to avoid salt build up is to follow directions on feeding schedules and amounts but also periodically water it where all the plants are getting is water. Most people do this by making every third watering be just plain water. In other words, you give the plants water w/nutes, then the next watering you give the plant water w/nutes and then the watering after that just give water without nutes.

Finally, you asked that if you don't continue to see it in the new growth does that mean your plant is okay? The answer would be yes, at least as far as what caused the spotting on the older leaves.

HempKat · Dec 23, 2009

bud wiser said:
I just started a thread before I saw this one. I'll remove it if I can assuming someone here can help me. Aside from the obvious pheno differences of taste, smell, size finish time etc. Does one plant out of a pack of seeds show it's superiority unquestionably? In other words, could two plants look, smell etc, exactly the same including tric color and amount, and one plant be way better than it's twin sister in high? Thanks in advance.

It's possible but you can't count on that happening with every pack of seeds. Usually though there is some visible difference in addition to the high being different. In general though, breeders strive for stability in their seeds. This means that most of the seeds out of a batch should produce the same plant with the same traits and the only real variation is gender. This isn't always the case though. Like for example, a popular strain several years back and even still today is C-99. At some point after it's release though, someone ended up finding a more potent pheno that had a smell and flavor similar to pineapple and so it became know as the "pineapple pheno". Often times these phenos go on to be cup winners. Like a few years ago the cup winner was a strain called Hogs Breath which as I understand it is actually a more potent pheno of a strain called Hog.

So anyway, yes it can happen that you get a different pheno out of a pack of seeds but you won't necessarily find one out of every pack and when you do find one it's more likely to have more differences then just the high.

bud wiser · Dec 23, 2009

Using the Hogs breath then, if I understand correctly, if it had more potency, it would probably have more trics or something, but could look and smell just like Hog?

NoNo · Dec 23, 2009

Ok, I have a question for the old farts:

I have some house plants that haven't been doing well and I was thinking after reading some stuff on this site that the ph of my soil may be too high (I tested the runoff water with some old pH strips I had from when I was prospecting and trying to precipitate gold out of solution). I don't have any pH adjustment stuff, but I was wondering can I safely adjust pH down with lemon juice, and safely asjust up with crushed Tums (calcium carbonate)?

goneforasmoke · Dec 23, 2009

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