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Treetops
Active member
I have used Neem in the past...but water curerd after with great results...This time I used a mix of water, alcohol,and a couple of drops of dish soap...took awhile, but it did work..keep it away from your buds...and you should be fine...I will be water curing a little of this again for sure..
Good luck no matter what you try and use...
Treetops
Good luck no matter what you try and use...
Treetops
They would be my first choice in veg but probably not once buds have formed.
Hot shot and the UK equivalent Vapona containing dichlorvos , were banned here due to overstated risks to stupid people as usual.
If anyone in the UK has ordered them from overseas recently and got them past customs i would be interested in the source , my stockpile has ran out and the mites reappear frequently now.
Hey everyone - I decided to post in here such there is such great useful information in here.
I am 13 days from harvest and I myself am running into a mite problem.
I noticed the mites on 1 leaf, 1 plant, out of 29.
They are obviously spreading, but I take my plants out of my grow-room to water every night and hand remove any mites I see with a Q-Tip.
Ive noticed they like to suck on the little popcorn nuggets that I usually chop off around week 2 of flower. The ones that I did do this too dont have mites, where as the ones I didnt do this to seem to have acquired the problem first.
Ive been doing a good job at controlling them (no webbing on my buds) but i'm wondering if i'm going to beable to keep doing a good job at controlling them and making sure they dont end up all over my buds before harvest?
Any ideas for 2 weeks before harvest?? Seems like an awful time to get them as I wont beable to spray and it gives them plenty of time to fuck things up.
I am 13 days from harvest and I myself am running into a mite problem.
I noticed the mites on 1 leaf, 1 plant, out of 29.
They are obviously spreading, but I take my plants out of my grow-room to water every night and hand remove any mites I see with a Q-Tip.
Ive noticed they like to suck on the little popcorn nuggets that I usually chop off around week 2 of flower. The ones that I did do this too dont have mites, where as the ones I didnt do this to seem to have acquired the problem first.
Ive been doing a good job at controlling them (no webbing on my buds) but i'm wondering if i'm going to beable to keep doing a good job at controlling them and making sure they dont end up all over my buds before harvest?
Any ideas for 2 weeks before harvest?? Seems like an awful time to get them as I wont beable to spray and it gives them plenty of time to fuck things up.
Hi bterzz , have very similar outbreaks myself and usually spot them on the lower leaves in early flower , despite very close inspection they seem confined to the lower plant at this stage of infestation.
Tend to use the lower buds for seeding but removeing them stopped the spread .
The only reasonable method that will also kill eggs is fumigation , suggest put an affected plant in a box with a ciggy in an ashtray and let it burn out , the kill is very good and hard to cause damage by overdoseing.
It is certainly possible to control or even erradicate mites by manually removeing them if you choose the best method and are willing to spend hours repeatedly doing it
An old boy i know who refuses to use chemicals and does not believe in predators does it , a selection of wide shorthaired paintbrushes combed down the leaves and frequently swished in iso will remove most eggs if done thoroughly on every surface but have not the time or patience myself when a bit of baccy does it better.
Tend to use the lower buds for seeding but removeing them stopped the spread .
The only reasonable method that will also kill eggs is fumigation , suggest put an affected plant in a box with a ciggy in an ashtray and let it burn out , the kill is very good and hard to cause damage by overdoseing.
It is certainly possible to control or even erradicate mites by manually removeing them if you choose the best method and are willing to spend hours repeatedly doing it
An old boy i know who refuses to use chemicals and does not believe in predators does it , a selection of wide shorthaired paintbrushes combed down the leaves and frequently swished in iso will remove most eggs if done thoroughly on every surface but have not the time or patience myself when a bit of baccy does it better.
datura_kid
Member
i heard smoke is very bad for the plants...? well i know mites are also, and probably way worse and deadly, but just want to hear your thoughts on it...you never experienced any problems after "smoking" them with tobacco smoke?
It does not do them any good for sure but is less damageing and persistant than other chemical options , some temporary petiole twisting and a scrunched up look on a very few individual plants for a couple of days only.
Do not smoke them with the lights on or the damage will be far worse and similar to ozone , in the dark under some water stress with fans off is best , stomata are mostly closed to minimise penetration for the short time needed.
An effective dose of several commercial miticides leaves plants looking like shit for a week and few are approved for food crop use and predators are useless in 12/12 in practice , nicotine was only discontinued for operator safety and agrochems profits and not for any perceived risk in consumption of product so treated.
It kills on such a basic cellular level that resistance cannot be aquired and is so broad spectrum it will take out anything and everything at the right dose and will get into the eggs and kill them too.
No droplet spray can be as effective as smoke and the last thing you want in flower is wet buds as mould magnets.
Though it was standard practice under glass for a century or more , if in doubt try it on one expendable infested plant and try to find a mite a week later.
Do not smoke them with the lights on or the damage will be far worse and similar to ozone , in the dark under some water stress with fans off is best , stomata are mostly closed to minimise penetration for the short time needed.
An effective dose of several commercial miticides leaves plants looking like shit for a week and few are approved for food crop use and predators are useless in 12/12 in practice , nicotine was only discontinued for operator safety and agrochems profits and not for any perceived risk in consumption of product so treated.
It kills on such a basic cellular level that resistance cannot be aquired and is so broad spectrum it will take out anything and everything at the right dose and will get into the eggs and kill them too.
No droplet spray can be as effective as smoke and the last thing you want in flower is wet buds as mould magnets.
Though it was standard practice under glass for a century or more , if in doubt try it on one expendable infested plant and try to find a mite a week later.
datura_kid
Member
im waiting on floramite, but would like to try this until it arrives...so the conclusion: just before the lights off (will they be able to close stomata fast enough after lights off?) i light 2 cigarettes for 1 m2 (i have 18m2 = 36 ciggys), ventilation is off and set to start and hour later (aldo i would like try half an hour just for precaution). I didnt fully understand that water stress part, do you mean they should be sprayed with water before this procedure?
and one other thing...you describe procedure within a box...my space is almost 3m high and they are on the ground and i guess all the smoke will rise up, aldo if the ventilation is off it will be everywhere...will this work? and is there any particular position for burning cigarette? im thinking between plants/pots on floor is the most logical option right? i wouldnt put them directly under the plant (on soil) cuz it seems too close, aldo i think it would smoke em the best...
thanks for your time bro
and one other thing...you describe procedure within a box...my space is almost 3m high and they are on the ground and i guess all the smoke will rise up, aldo if the ventilation is off it will be everywhere...will this work? and is there any particular position for burning cigarette? im thinking between plants/pots on floor is the most logical option right? i wouldnt put them directly under the plant (on soil) cuz it seems too close, aldo i think it would smoke em the best...
thanks for your time bro
Two cigs per cubic metre is a ballpark figure found by experiment useing a large cardboard box and trying a number of fumigants and gasses , minimal damage and a good kill at this level.
By water stress i meant the plants are dry but not wilting , not that important really but makes some sense.
Would burn half that amount first time and clear after half an hour just to be safe and try one plant in a box first.
Should knock them back till the Floramite tuns up.
By water stress i meant the plants are dry but not wilting , not that important really but makes some sense.
Would burn half that amount first time and clear after half an hour just to be safe and try one plant in a box first.
Should knock them back till the Floramite tuns up.
Nibiru king
Member
"Should knock them back till the Floramite tuns up. "
Do NOT use this
IT IS TOXIC
ONLY TO BE USED ON ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
You might end up with some funny looking children if you smoke this stuff
or you turn neon green 
Do NOT use this
IT IS TOXIC
ONLY TO BE USED ON ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
You might end up with some funny looking children if you smoke this stuff
or you turn neon green
It is not.
With an LD50 of 5000mg/kilo and no cancer or mutagenic effects is actually considered quite safe.
Table salt has an LD50 of 3000.
Approved for use on cucumbers and tomatoes under glass in some countries includeing Canada and pending in others.
Residual systemic effect lasts 28 days so one application in late veg/early flower should do once the cycle is broken , would be as concerned about other smoke components as any trace of bifenazate left after a cure.
Limited mobility within the plant means new bud growth will contain very little at harvest.
The flashpoint is only 103 c and traces will not survive being smoked.
This was licensed in 2001 for outdoor ornamentals and has plenty of data to support it becomeing deregulated .
