InjectTruth
Active member
Got a link?
Organic coco club
- Thread starter gramsci.antonio
- Start date
Got a link?
charlesweedmore
Member
pls give me biobizz schedule
Im gonna bump this great thread.
B
Brain
Watch out for to much K in coco. It will lock out Mag. I stopped the kelp and that fixed things.
My organic mix is 50% coir, 20% peat/pro-mix/recycled soil, 20% mushroom compost, 5% composted manure/humus, and 5% fine clay. I add 2 tbsp bone meal, 2 tbsp Espoma Flower-Tone, 1 tbsp Bio-Tone StarterPlus, and 1 tbsp dolomite lime, all per gallon. Never had any deficiencies with this mix except when they get root-bound. It allows me to use fairly small pots to good results!
ps - Ignore the perlite, it was just on the top layer but I don't use that anymore.
ps - Ignore the perlite, it was just on the top layer but I don't use that anymore.
Lostclusters
Member
/bumping
black gold coco blend is basically organic coco mix in 1 bag:
coco, peat moss, perlite, pumice, yucca wetting agent, worm castings...
holds more water than pure coco. they changed name to 'water hold' due to this...
goal
re-fertilized coco+water only
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=126834
enjoy your garden!
coco, peat moss, perlite, pumice, yucca wetting agent, worm castings...
holds more water than pure coco. they changed name to 'water hold' due to this...
goal
re-fertilized coco+water only https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=126834
enjoy your garden!
Redid my mix due to some changes in my supplies, but I think this new mix is better anyway:
10 parts coir
7 parts recycled soil(mostly coir, also with composts, perlite, vermiculite, and peat)
2 parts clay
1 part composted manure/humus.
I use 2 tbsp per gallon of dolomite lime
2 tbsp per gallon bone meal
2 tbsp per gallon Flower-Tone
1 tbsp per gallon Bio-Tone StarterPlus
I decided with a bit less fresh composted manure in the mix, the nitrogen production in the soil would slow down. The recycled soil should still have a lot of food in it, but in more matured processed compounds(humates and whatnot). So far so good!
10 parts coir
7 parts recycled soil(mostly coir, also with composts, perlite, vermiculite, and peat)
2 parts clay
1 part composted manure/humus.
I use 2 tbsp per gallon of dolomite lime
2 tbsp per gallon bone meal
2 tbsp per gallon Flower-Tone
1 tbsp per gallon Bio-Tone StarterPlus
I decided with a bit less fresh composted manure in the mix, the nitrogen production in the soil would slow down. The recycled soil should still have a lot of food in it, but in more matured processed compounds(humates and whatnot). So far so good!
Stoned Crow
Member
Where do you get your vermiculite? i thought with all the lawsuits, that stuff was almost forgotten.
piratejack
New member
Nah, vermiculite isnt forgotten. I have access to unlimited supplies, its still used in certain industries as a must-have product. The problem is that there are only a few manufacturers left and due to this the pricing is all jacked.
piratejack
New member
Oh, and I want to join the Organic Coco club.
My mix is as follows (all % are rough, I eye it out)
30% - Peat
20% - COCO brick
25/30% - compost mix (2types EWC/leaf compost)
15/20% - PBH (parboiled rice hulls)
alfalfa meal
soft rock phosphate
greensand
kelp meal
lime
powdered brown rice
First time playing with coco and I'm concerned about the quality, next mix i'll order some quality.
My mix is as follows (all % are rough, I eye it out)
30% - Peat
20% - COCO brick
25/30% - compost mix (2types EWC/leaf compost)
15/20% - PBH (parboiled rice hulls)
alfalfa meal
soft rock phosphate
greensand
kelp meal
lime
powdered brown rice
First time playing with coco and I'm concerned about the quality, next mix i'll order some quality.
Stoned Crow
Member
If you're going to go organic, go all the way or don't bother. Just my opinion. Mixing coir into soil-like mixes is great though. I grow with this mix:
10 parts coir
7 parts recycled soil(I used to use Pro-Mix for this portion)
2 parts clay
1 part composted manure/humus
2 tbsp per gallon bone meal
2 tbsp per gallon Flower-Tone
2 tbsp per gallon Dolomite Lime
1 tbsp per gallon Bio-Tone StarterPlus
I never adjust pH, I never check pH, I can't over-water as far as I can tell, and it holds moisture for days.
little-soldier
Active member
ive been using coco for a while now and went through too many coco bottle of ferts. Im now thinking of adding lime,blood/bone meal and worm castings. This way I can feed once a week but my only problem is im using sea of green method and can<t wait for the bone meal to break down since I veg for 2 weeks at most. Any idea any1?
sophisto
Member
Heres a coco mix I worked with for a bit....
-1.5 cu ft coco ( something clean, and low salt content)
-1 gallon ewc
-3 gallons perlite
-3/4 cup dolomite lime ( by most standards the dose is low however works like a champ for my ladies....)
-Added dry ferts about a 1 cup of low npk ratios ( organic goodies for microbes to feed on, not necessarily to high an npk as to pretend that Im feeding the plant)
Otherwise fed with teas and ferments, has worked good for me in the past...
This mix has caused me no ph hassles and no BS...... many ways to cross a river, but organics is supposed to be easy right.
The main key is to find a medium or mix you like and stick with it....To many extremes and you'll never know what your doing or have done that makes or made a difference....
working with plants is a relationship. Find a foundation and build.
Then again, what do I know????
-1.5 cu ft coco ( something clean, and low salt content)
-1 gallon ewc
-3 gallons perlite
-3/4 cup dolomite lime ( by most standards the dose is low however works like a champ for my ladies....)
-Added dry ferts about a 1 cup of low npk ratios ( organic goodies for microbes to feed on, not necessarily to high an npk as to pretend that Im feeding the plant)
Otherwise fed with teas and ferments, has worked good for me in the past...
This mix has caused me no ph hassles and no BS...... many ways to cross a river, but organics is supposed to be easy right.
The main key is to find a medium or mix you like and stick with it....To many extremes and you'll never know what your doing or have done that makes or made a difference....
working with plants is a relationship. Find a foundation and build.
Then again, what do I know????
Vermiculite is still available at some garden centers, but it's also in every bag of Pro-Mix I've ever purchased.
coco is organic why mess with it and loose control, two differant ph requirements in all theese mixes, differant cation exchanges, i know u guys think the ''shit gods'' are conspiring for your ph to be taking care of by humates in the dirt but read around the forum, when u start to trreat coco like a hyro grow is when u get rewarded, u aint gotta add any chems to it, just keep it coco, keep your nutes organi or chem at the right ph via organic methods and presto your now growing erb at a sped that your dirt or coco dirt mix could only dream of.
I realize there are advantages to other approaches, but I enjoy my current mix. It works without maintenance, and produces results I am happy with. I like how long it holds water, and how stable they grow in it. It even physically holds them up well. I don't have to pH anything. Even a bit more yield isn't worth that hassle. Frankly I don't think it is effecting yield anyway. Since settling on this current mix, my results have been nothing but improved.
J
jaded1
Have switched to an organic coco mix recently and so far am impressed,no ph probs and very lush green growth.Actually have 1 plant in bio-bizz all mix which has started yellowing at 3 weeks into flower while the others in my own mix are still dark green.
