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To much lime !!! Ph 8.0

1 cup fer cubic foot of dolomite is a little over 2 tablespoons per gallon of soil. Might be a bit much, and giving you a really strong buffer in your soil that holds the pH steady at over 7.0 I used 3 tablespoons dolomite per gallon of 50/50 moss/perlite and fucked that medium up beyond repair. Even with the moss being very acidic!

1 cup per cubic foot is actually the recommended amount by burn one in the organics for beginners and is roughly what i used for years growing veggies and weed,(actually i used a little more) and is exactly what i have been using for the last couple of years. i dont believe ph is your issue, if you have good compost in the mix, ph is irrelevant anyway when growing organically, the humates in the compost buffers ph. so it must be a different cause, plus like the guy above said, if it were a ph problem from whatever reason, it would have shewn up the moment you put the girls into the mix, most likely something you are or are not feeding them is the problem. try some fulvic acid, and water with mollasses at 1 teaspoon/gallon until finished. it has trace minerals as well as a tiny bit of npk, and the fulvic will chelate the minerals if you have too much. thats the best shot if you only have a couple of weeks left, either fulvic acid, or a tea made from worm castings or a good organic compost, i wouldnt flush them again.
 
Z

Ziggaro

IMO don't add any nutes to your mix until you fix your pH. The reason a flush with RO at 6.5 pH did not work is because you probably did not use enough water. You'd want AT LEAST as much runoff as gallons of medium. IE: 3 gallon pot 3 gallons runoff.
If you want your pH to go down to 6.5 you should flush with water that has a pH of 5.5. Make sure you adjust your water about a half hour in advance so you know you are getting a proper reading of the water.
You might have P def but P is locked out by alkaline mediums. pH of 8 can certainly do that.

Otherwise.. When first comes to worst I just add some pre-fert soil. Top dressing like this seems to help a lot of different problems including pH being a little out of range. I always leave at least 4-5 inches from the rim of the pot just in case ;)

Either way you can harvest decent buds with your plants being fucked up through about 80% of flower, although you won't get even 1/4 of the yield u should (trust me I know LOL)
Its all a learning experience dude :)
 

mikemoister

New member
Thanks for looking out senor_bueno. Ill do my best till they get better or get smoked :joint: either way they will get smoked:joint:
Here are the details on the facts... this problem should be addressed since it has already happened three times. once when they were in tiny pots, i transplanted to fox farm they grew quick then this happened but the ph was on the other side of the scale .i just bought some earth nectar and ambrosia for the fungi and humic acids ...maybe that will help get some nutes to the plants.

1)I water 2 quarts and on the third day they are light, maybe to light but no wilting.

2) The soil at the bottom gets wet.

3) when in veg i feed half strength which seemed like to much...leaves looked really dark green and started folding down the middle.
read some one else saying to only use 1tsp-1tblsp because its easy to overdo. A day before the flush i feed bloom.. 1/2 a tblsp for widows and 1 tsp to satoris... next day the problem seemed worse.

4) feeding was light in the first three weeks because they looked excellent probably because the nutes in the soil and compost tea. durig week three fed bloom nutes very light cau
moz-screenshot.jpg
se they were still lush except that the satori leaves had turned purple ...I figured it might be normal since there was an early frost and temps droped.

5) After the flush what is the next step? start them on quarter nutes then every watering up them alittle till they improve . agreed on the watering more would be better. How is phosphorus unlocked ?
 
Glad ur still trying. first of all going micro is diffenatly the way to go. they will also help keep your soil moist. less watering. I always water until about 15-20% of my solution runs out. you dont want any dry spots. then let it almost dry out before watering again. this goes for water or when u are feeding. It is also a good idea to start at a lesser strengh then feed more. Its better to give less and work your way up.Than have to flush out from feeding to much. BUT.. I feel in your case those plants want more food. another thing is if you are trying to fix a problem you feel u have. you will not see positive resolutes in 1 day. so what u think might have made it worse, in realaity hasnt done anything yet. also during week 3 those ladys of yours will really start to show growth and take up much more food.
 
MikeM. to unlock your phosphates. keep PH below 7. and you can inoculate your soil with a fungus called Penicillium bilaii. good luck and hope we were able to help probelm.
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Just want to give thanks for the replies. the drops are general hydroponics, what kinda pen do you use Hammerhead? also the soil had lime then i added the recommend dose for peat that has none. If tap water is the cause ...wouldn't the run off ph change after an ro flush?
I might just have to ride this one out but next grow will be a lot smoother for sure. I t sucks !!!!these satori smell sooooooo sweet ..like grape sour candy and some sandal wood type scent.

happy herb ill check up on the iron chelates to see whats up with that . thanks


You can find them on ebay hanna or Milwaukee I have both. They very in pricw from 15-200$ my Hanna was 25$ my Milwaukee was 125$
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
mike, pH meters are finicky. Never underestimate the manufacturers cleaning and storage recommendations, especially storage.
 

ibjamming

Active member
Veteran
The guy say's he's only got 3 weeks until he's chopping...right?

WTF? Why all the worry? A week to "fix" a problem and then 2 weeks of straight water? I see this as a case of "don't bother". Do as you have been and go to straight water next week. Those plants aren't going to miraculously green up just before you start to slowly kill them by starving them.
 
If you are this close to finish then the plants actually don't look that bad. I would just flush with PHed water and maybe some molasses until harvest. Do you use any kind of myco or beneficial bacteria in your soil?
 
Ibjammin. the reason to fuss over his probelm now is so it doenst happen again. He even said it happened before. It would really suck if he had to go thru another 8 wks with the same problem. In 8 wks ide like to see his flowers alot fatter. wouldnt you?
 

mikemoister

New member
The widows have three weeks left ...so im not that worried..on the other hand the satoris are only half way through and bud production has stopped and yield is not that great but there are covered with crystals
icon11.gif
smells bomb too
icon10.gif
.
They were dosed with some benficial micro and fungi today so when they dry up ill feed with liquid karma and light nutes.....does anyone think i should back off on the liquid karma since the earth ambrosia that i gave them today has humic acids?
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
After you mix up your water to feed check it's ph I bet ya it will be extremely low. anything that's acidic will lower the ph. When I mix up my Pure Blend Pro and Liquid Karma the ph is 4.8 I use PH up to get it back to 6.5
 

ibjamming

Active member
Veteran
I'm just saying...most plants start looking "rough" near the end. It happened before because it's supposed to happen. That's why we switch to bloom ferts for flowering...screw the pretty leaves, we want flowers. Sure, you can grow "photo quality" buds...with lots of healthy green leaves...but they're usually not that much better when they're dried and cured...in fact, they're usually worse because they haven't been flushed.

I think people fret too much, then they over correct too much...and then they usually make things worse. Keep it simple. It's not worth the trouble for an extra 5-10%...not in my opinion. You can grow great buds...VERY simply. Decent soil, lights, and just the right amount of rain water with very little nutes.

It's me I guess...I don't see the point of worrying. Read my sig...
 

PazVerdeRadical

all praises are due to the Most High
Veteran
you can always use your coffee grounds, mix them with water and flush your soil with that to acidify; also, liquid worm humus will help you stabilize your pH, you can feed with it after the coffee flush.

two cents

good luck
 

webace

New member
The real PH of dolomite powder agg lime. is 10+

The real PH of dolomite powder agg lime. is 10+

mikemoister. dolomite does not go over 7 flat. and by seeing ur pics at the top only showing the leaves. if you look closly you will see your stem is red and the graying. im gonna have to call it phos. def.



The real PH of dolomite powder agg lime. is 10+

this site trash the case study i submited
 

webace

New member
The real PH of dolomite powder agg lime. is 10+



this site trash the case study i submited
The real PH of dolomite powder agg lime. is 10+



this site trash the case study i submited
The real PH of dolomite powder agg lime. is 10+



this site trash the case study i submited
 

hazy

Active member
Veteran
If your runoff is 8.0 then that will cause lots of trouble. Bueno is right about high Calcium.
High pH causes excessive calcium to be present which can precipitate with Phosphorous lowering availability. This is the flocculation he spoke of. High pH and Calcium lock out Iron so you should see Iron and Manganese defs too. and the tops of some of your plants look kind of yellow. Iron defs start at pH over 6.8.

Overliming will also cause Boron defs. that's bad for buds.

Try the coffee grounds to lower pH that Paz talked about. In my garden I use Sulfur to bring down the pH of my 8.5 soil.
 
E

EvilTwin

Try the coffee grounds to lower pH that Paz talked about. In my garden I use Sulfur to bring down the pH of my 8.5 soil.

Hi Hazy,
It was my understanding for soil to be acidified with sulfur...that the reaction requires the correct micro-organisms to convert sulphur to sulfuric acid. Takes awhile as in weeks to months. Does that fit in with your experience?
ET
 

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