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HELP. No trichomes and DRY Canopy serious problem!
- Thread starter trakulis
- Start date
E
EvilTwin
I don't know what the deal is with this thread...but it's collecting some weird advice. syze...are you and gonzo a tag team of crappy advice or what?
It's true that light cycle interruption in flower cycle should be avoided at all cost...but the likely outcome of such interruption would be in the form of the plant going hermaphrodite and forming male flowers. Self-seeding. If that didn't happen...then the rest of the grow should be normal.
You noobs who feel compelled to chime in with garbage advice should realize that you'll get called on it. So prove you point with a reference syze...
And Gonzo...there's several good stickies on genetics so you can go back to school and learn your shit before wasting peoples time...
(bad mood this morning)
ET
Actually EvilTwin, a noob or not one is always learning. And apparently your brain is full of garbage. So your saying I have to reference what I say, although it is not needed.
First off, a plant in Vegetative stage, only knows by one way when its time to flower. Through the time it can be photosynthetically active. When lights are off there is no possibility, so the plants metabolism changes and it verts to flower production. Allow a plant to recieve light out of its lights on time it will get stressed, which halts all bud formation and the plant is triggerd to revert back to veg. Since it was a few days at a time, after a time it reverted itself back into the flower process. As you know a plant gradually increases trichome production. Through these "stress periods" plants can have various effects. "hermies" are more evident in feminized seeds "in stress" but when a plant stresses it is fact that it doesnt only come in hermie form. His plants growth was effected in its maturing rate and also on its calyx production. Dont forget a plants defences are trichomes and chrystiloth hairs, and that production can also be ceased through certain stresses, and light is a great factor.
OK blah blah, dry buds, no trichs, it CAN be something else.
But when someone says this was there problem and i couldnt find anything else ( other then the genetics, clearly)
Well enough, not worth it, when you got this idiot trying to call people on BS but he clearly states that light stress usually causes hermies and male flowers, first whats the diff between the 2, second the grow cant be normal because the plant WILL be halted in its flower process, will grow more leaf until its back on track and continue to flower with a few weeks later maturation time. and you dont know who i am. Who i work for and what i do in the amsterdam area. so wtf do i need a reference for?? half is bs on its own and a little carries weight. I am my own reference .. so dont call shit on my experience (NOOB) lol .. and first you do more experimenting with dif strains with diff enviro and so forth, then maybe even you can try to call people on bluffs, other then that STFU, you bookworm grower with your reference, how about you compile a reference of your own findings dipshit
So for record take your garbage to a forum were idiots are wanted and let us peaceful people try to correspond with eachother.
go smoke one and get a life
Not so good formulated but this idiot garbage noob kinda irritated me, cause he himself hasnt a clue
First off, a plant in Vegetative stage, only knows by one way when its time to flower. Through the time it can be photosynthetically active. When lights are off there is no possibility, so the plants metabolism changes and it verts to flower production. Allow a plant to recieve light out of its lights on time it will get stressed, which halts all bud formation and the plant is triggerd to revert back to veg. Since it was a few days at a time, after a time it reverted itself back into the flower process. As you know a plant gradually increases trichome production. Through these "stress periods" plants can have various effects. "hermies" are more evident in feminized seeds "in stress" but when a plant stresses it is fact that it doesnt only come in hermie form. His plants growth was effected in its maturing rate and also on its calyx production. Dont forget a plants defences are trichomes and chrystiloth hairs, and that production can also be ceased through certain stresses, and light is a great factor.
OK blah blah, dry buds, no trichs, it CAN be something else.
But when someone says this was there problem and i couldnt find anything else ( other then the genetics, clearly)
Well enough, not worth it, when you got this idiot trying to call people on BS but he clearly states that light stress usually causes hermies and male flowers, first whats the diff between the 2, second the grow cant be normal because the plant WILL be halted in its flower process, will grow more leaf until its back on track and continue to flower with a few weeks later maturation time. and you dont know who i am. Who i work for and what i do in the amsterdam area. so wtf do i need a reference for?? half is bs on its own and a little carries weight. I am my own reference .. so dont call shit on my experience (NOOB) lol .. and first you do more experimenting with dif strains with diff enviro and so forth, then maybe even you can try to call people on bluffs, other then that STFU, you bookworm grower with your reference, how about you compile a reference of your own findings dipshit
So for record take your garbage to a forum were idiots are wanted and let us peaceful people try to correspond with eachother.
go smoke one and get a life
Not so good formulated but this idiot garbage noob kinda irritated me, cause he himself hasnt a clue
why the PH?? I say an ec meter, a plants water absorption through the roots can be halted when the ec/ppm is greater then that IN the roots so therfor the roots and plant would actually be sucked dry, but the ph wont dry the whole plant, ph interferes with nutrient uptake but the plants still take in the water, causes leaf distortions, burns , blotches, etc ...
On my other post it was a quick answer stating the problem was the light, ouch sue me, but now that i read this I just knew I was trying to be called on something by someone who reads and thinks he knows all but doesnt have his own concrete findings, i answer from experience noob, otherwise i wouldnt post. But like i said, all are always learning, but you have a WAAAAAYS to go
E
EvilTwin
Syze...
Got your hackles up I see.
It wasn't useful for you to post that the few missed timer days were "100% of his problem" He has ongoing problems that are almost for sure nutritional.
And you're your own reference? That must be nice for you. But why would you expect others to respect and believe you?
On the ph issue...that post was in direct response to his plea on what to do about his dry leaves. Dry and cracking leaves are a common problem when ph is off. It creates a situation where there's also nutritional malabsorption and lockout. But dry leaves are NOT related to water absorption or lack of it. You're still giving bad advice.
Trakulis clearly has some serious problems and he's trying to grow with no meters. Sure, he should have an EC meter as well...but ph is much more likely.
The poor guy is getting sidetracked with advice that isn't helping. I wanted to cut through all that and encourage him to do something positive. I still maintain that he should measure his ph which is most likely a good part of the problem.
ET
Got your hackles up I see.
It wasn't useful for you to post that the few missed timer days were "100% of his problem" He has ongoing problems that are almost for sure nutritional.
And you're your own reference? That must be nice for you. But why would you expect others to respect and believe you?
On the ph issue...that post was in direct response to his plea on what to do about his dry leaves. Dry and cracking leaves are a common problem when ph is off. It creates a situation where there's also nutritional malabsorption and lockout. But dry leaves are NOT related to water absorption or lack of it. You're still giving bad advice.
Trakulis clearly has some serious problems and he's trying to grow with no meters. Sure, he should have an EC meter as well...but ph is much more likely.
The poor guy is getting sidetracked with advice that isn't helping. I wanted to cut through all that and encourage him to do something positive. I still maintain that he should measure his ph which is most likely a good part of the problem.
ET
gonzo`
Member
Yeah I was off with the F2 thing, but the crux of the argument is still valid, he has bad genes, you can't argue that. Thats what I was basically trying to express. I'm for sure gonna go read some genetic threads now.
And your bad mood doesn't excuse you being a prick.
i agree there is a lot of misinformation and too many people forgetting that plants are complex and any one problem is hardly ever "100 %" of the problem. One problem with a plant can lead to many other problems, and if these problems are diagnosed incorrectly, the main problem goes unnoticed. As with pH, if its incorrect nutrients wont be taken up by the roots and many other symptoms will be noticed and many inferences can be made. but the root of the problem is still pH and no matter what you do you will never have as healthy of a plant as you would if you had the correct pH. But i think the problem is your soil is having drainage problems. If the soil was too heavy the top may dry out and you may think it needs watering when in fact the roots are completely drowning in your heavy wet soil, and you only add more. this makes the problem much worse and can lead to nutrient deficieny symptoms, when the problem is your soil is too heavy. watch your plant and youll see what it really needs, not what every single person says based on images of your buds. they wont solve the root of the problem, which can be any number of things at this point. not 100 percent anything!
E
EvilTwin
Hi Gonzo,
Enlighten us with your wisdom. Why is a SatorixLowryder bad genetics? There are threads on both strains with lots of avid growers of each. Popular and reliable genetics.
And with an F1 cross...you not only get fair uniformity, you get maximum hybrid vigor.
I wouldn't choose that cross because I have no interest in auto-flowering.
I think it's clear that the problem that trakulis is having is ph/nutritional but he has no meters to help him track down the problem.
ET
Trakulis
I'm a 6th month noob grower who probably cant give any serious technical help but I can state this. Ive been following alot of forums before I finally nutted up and joined this one because of the level of knowledge here, but I do notice that as a thread goes along the noob (or possible expert) asking the question is overwelmed with advice and different oppinions
. Add this to the crap thats thrown at you from hydro stores pedaling their products and all the nighmare assosiated with the American PPM layziness 
(I'm a proud one) and one has to ask is it worth it. YES IT IS 
My suggestion is what I am doing. Read all the kind help these people are offering. Find the main jist of the thread and write it down. For example Ive read so far for your problem it may be planting mix moisture level, PH, lighting mistake, EC problems and some others. Then pick the one you think you can remedy first and be sure you can repeat it for consitancy. If you have a tight budget and cant afford ph or ec meters or even test kits if you search the internet you can find ways to monitor your ph for next to nothing. Then go to the next one down the line. You may have a plant or two go south like I have if you wait to long to find the real problem but if you and I dont get the basics right all the rest is just money and hair loss.
I hope this helps.
If I am wrong correct me.
I'm a 6th month noob grower who probably cant give any serious technical help but I can state this. Ive been following alot of forums before I finally nutted up and joined this one because of the level of knowledge here, but I do notice that as a thread goes along the noob (or possible expert) asking the question is overwelmed with advice and different oppinions
. Add this to the crap thats thrown at you from hydro stores pedaling their products and all the nighmare assosiated with the American PPM layziness (I'm a proud one) and one has to ask is it worth it. YES IT IS My suggestion is what I am doing. Read all the kind help these people are offering. Find the main jist of the thread and write it down. For example Ive read so far for your problem it may be planting mix moisture level, PH, lighting mistake, EC problems and some others. Then pick the one you think you can remedy first and be sure you can repeat it for consitancy. If you have a tight budget and cant afford ph or ec meters or even test kits if you search the internet you can find ways to monitor your ph for next to nothing. Then go to the next one down the line. You may have a plant or two go south like I have if you wait to long to find the real problem but if you and I dont get the basics right all the rest is just money and hair loss.
I hope this helps.
If I am wrong correct me.
gonzo`
Member
Popular does not = good genetics... Lowryder is a crap strain of weed and people risking their freedom growing something like lowryder need to get a grip. You take the weakness of lowryder, a random lowyder at that because you can be sure he didn't use any selective breeding techniques, and cross it to a random satori.... To me that is bad genetics.
The way those leaves are growing in those first pics, with just 1 blade fan leaves, that is an indication of some lighting related issue. On what light schedule are you meant to flower autoflowers? I think I remember reading that it should really be more than 12 hours? Perhaps the cross started on 12/12 is causing issues, perhaps the 24/0 a few times really screwed things up with auto in the gene pool...
Further, your advise while not being invalid is rather irrelevant at this stage for the OP. Why? Well, he's flushing right now and is at the end of the cycle. For his next grow he should get a pH meter at the very least, I agree but equally as important is the need to start on good quality genetics.
So in summary his problem are twofold: poor genetics (leading to strange plants, the auto flower has something to do with this too) and lack of essential instruments....
flush for 3 days with clearex and ph correct water. then add Blackstrap mollases, and maybe some epsom salts to your nute mix. this will help them beef and frost up. then finish the last week with a clearex flush. I havnt used clearex but am going too. It is good stuff. At week 12 though id dunno if it is possible to fix it. You might just wanna start a clearex flush, and be done with it. move on to a new strain.
Hackles up? No, actually just stooping to your level.
I do agree with what you are saying, its no wrong info. But your critisism needs to be more constructive. Yes I am my own reference (to an extent from my experience) I say this because i have a lot of different experiences as what i have read in reference.. and why only dry leaves? he said his whole plant is drying, buds and leaves. Unless i have read wrong. And now for seconds, he is using Hesi for soil, which i have been using before switching .. In the grow phase i would recommend a pH meter, and an EC meter isnt worthy because TNT complex is 100% organic N. Now for the bloom phase, HESI does NOT need PH adjustments, it always brings the pH to 6.8. So Im honestly stumped. Another thing I can think of is salt buildup in the soil, On my first Hesi grow I was havingthe same problems. What I changed was the feeding schedule, Hesi always recommends, bloom 5ml/L and Phos+ at 2.5ml/L. I would change this, first week bloom at 2ml/L and gradually go up to 5ml/L untill week 5 then gradually back down, I would add phosfur plus on the 3rd week mark, and with this i would start at 1ml/L and also gradually work it up untill 2.5ml/L in the 5th week and slowly back down untill plain pHed water in the 8th + week(buy a meter) So on the salt build up, flush your soil regularly(once a month)
Trakulis humidity looks good but im wondering about the lights and the canopy (heat issue). Are the buds under the canopy more on track or is the whole plant dried up?? Ive noticed on a g13haze that when the plants start coming to close to the lights the the trichome production is heavily decreased, but thing is on the rest of the plant everything was cool. So now that i come to thinking, I would be on the going with your soil .. the salt buildup is now looking a litttle more positive, and there Eviltwin is also correct because with a salt build up 3 things happen, 1. salts combine and will no longer be available to plants, 2. through this salt buildup the pH of the soil rises, so i would advize to flush the soil on a regular basis and try to feed the way i have recommended(measure runoff water for pH,buy a meter).3. the ppm rises higher then that of the roots, and it will prohibit water/nute uptake.
Sorry that this thread has ended up on this level, wasnt my intention, but EvilTwin, stop being a dick, your last answer was way more constructive although you still said i was wrong but it came across better. I will admit that i didnt analyze his whole problem and only answered from a few things i have read.
Hope i didnt give more bad advice, lol
All have a good one, greets on EvilTwin and Trakulis
hey there trakulis, Im thinking this may be your best bet, to chop, if the time is right, i just analyzed your pics a little more and i do see trichomes, just not on the single leaves, you are also growing a highly sativa dominant plant, and to get those buds tight and dense is an art on its own.The light distance must be correct due to the heat, 30c is usually not too hot, but you will know this on how your plants respond, i would try to keep the temps between 20 and 25c and night temps at about 15-20c, your humidty is great.
Now you have several things on which people are hinting on, but only you can know for sure, make yourself a checklist (as Festevio) has mentioned, and check up on what it can be and what it cannot be, since only YOU can really know if its on track or not(from people opinions) since you are using HESI i would be led to believe the nutrient water pH is correct, but from salt build up you could be getting your problems.
respekt and good luck on your next grow
Just a little tip from myself, when learning to grow id try to stick with indica dominant pplants, they CAN be more forgiving and not as sensitive as a sativa
Now you have several things on which people are hinting on, but only you can know for sure, make yourself a checklist (as Festevio) has mentioned, and check up on what it can be and what it cannot be, since only YOU can really know if its on track or not(from people opinions) since you are using HESI i would be led to believe the nutrient water pH is correct, but from salt build up you could be getting your problems.
respekt and good luck on your next grow
Just a little tip from myself, when learning to grow id try to stick with indica dominant pplants, they CAN be more forgiving and not as sensitive as a sativa
Sorry to say it, but EvilTwin is the only one offering any sort of good advice as best he can.
Some other posts are simply rediculas.
I am having the exact same problem for the second time.
I'm using clones with good genetics, so that negates the genetic question, for me anyway.
But it's very hot where I live and it's summer now and heat is my number one enemy.
I get very potent buds during winter, but when it warms up my grow tent gets a bit too hot, and I have the usual amount of trichs but with no head on them.
And no, you wont get too stoned on them, if at all, so my only option is to make hash out of them.
My hot buds look exactly like the original posters and are dry like he says too.
I have so far excluded PH, soil density, fertiliser and genetics which only leaves heat.
But here it's often close to 40C in the day so I run my lights at night.
If anyone KNOWS better then please enlighten us.
But please don't argue when your just guessing.
Some other posts are simply rediculas.
I am having the exact same problem for the second time.
I'm using clones with good genetics, so that negates the genetic question, for me anyway.
But it's very hot where I live and it's summer now and heat is my number one enemy.
I get very potent buds during winter, but when it warms up my grow tent gets a bit too hot, and I have the usual amount of trichs but with no head on them.
And no, you wont get too stoned on them, if at all, so my only option is to make hash out of them.
My hot buds look exactly like the original posters and are dry like he says too.
I have so far excluded PH, soil density, fertiliser and genetics which only leaves heat.
But here it's often close to 40C in the day so I run my lights at night.
If anyone KNOWS better then please enlighten us.
But please don't argue when your just guessing.
