Hempy buckets - Vermiculite washes and accumulates on the bottom of the container

[!!!]

I noticed that with hempys, even in a 3:1 ratio of perlite to verm, the vermiculite gets pushed down and into the reservoir of the hempy bucket with each watering.

Vermiculite is excellent for holding water (doesn't hold much air), but when it accumulates on the bottom, it's basically creating a major wet spot that nearly never gets dry. I've lost a huge salvia plant to root rot due to this issue once.

It might be that my verm is too fine? I'm using chunky perlite and my vermiculite are the size of sand particles.

 

[SkunkyDemon]

I would use a bigger size vermic. I use the size thats close to the same size as the perl. That small size vermic will wash down.
Peace

 

[America]

I use coco coir instead of vermiculite. It works well, but you can't use it forever like with the vermiculite.

 

[The Southpaw]

I use coco coir instead of vermiculite. It works well, but you can't use it forever like with the vermiculite.

agreed.. I just changed to 50/50 perlite/coco for my latest.. the plants seem to really like it.. and it seems to flush better..

 

[bostrom155]

run it with perlite only

 

[Sam the Caveman]

I use all perlite.

 

[America]

Using only perlite works wonders, but for optimal results you must water more frequently.

By using a moisture absorbing material in conjunction with the perlite you provide the plant with a medium that contains an evenly distributed source of moisture as well as the reservoir at the bottom. Because of this, more roots develop throughout the pot resulting in larger plants (more yield) for the size of pot used.

I've noticed on my perlite only hempies that they tend to have more roots concentrated on the bottom of the buckets, where all the water was. Late into flowering the roots had developed so much, I had to cut watering in half in order to keep it from flowing out of the drain hole due to all of the roots.

 

[Bass Akwards]

Ever tried this?

Ever tried this?

We've experimented with proto-hempy buckets in a side-by-side comparison using a plain bucket, and one coated inside with Copper loaded paint.

Both had roots all the way down, but there was a distinct difference in the size of the root-balls, and the vigor of the plants.

First heard of the trick from "Uncle Ben" on PG.

Anyone else ever try it?

 

[!!!]

We've experimented with proto-hempy buckets in a side-by-side comparison using a plain bucket, and one coated inside with Copper loaded paint.

Both had roots all the way down, but there was a distinct difference in the size of the root-balls, and the vigor of the plants.

First heard of the trick from "Uncle Ben" on PG.

Anyone else ever try it?

more info please.

 

[Bass Akwards]

The product is called "Spinout" "Root Growth Regulator".

It's a Copper heavy gray paint that's used to coat the inside of a container.

Two coats are needed, and it's tricky to find. Contact the manufacturer, and they'll put you in touch with a distributer. It's not cheap, but it goes a long way. Handle with care ... gloves and glasses ... you don't want to get a dose of soluble Copper. It won't harm the plants though, and little to none of it ends up in the bud. The root tips die when they hit it, and therefore they can't carry any back to the rest of the plant. )

The plants use much more of the growing medium and ferts, the parts not around the edges, which increases root ball mass.

Here's a link: http://www.sepro.com

Here's an excerpt from the product literature:

"It is true that a plant can be left in a SpinOut-treated container for a longer period of time compared to non-treated containers. However, SpinOut is NOT a substitute for upcanning. Since plants in SpinOut-treated containers are able to exploit all the soil in a container, it is possible to delay shifting for a few months in most climates. In climates with long growing seasons, this time may be shorter, especially for vigorous species. Plants kept in SpinOut-treated containers past full root development will not grow as quickly when shifted as plants shifted at the proper time. Plants shifted before they become root bound will have the best root regeneration and growth potential."

 

[Bonehead]

I use Floor-Dry from Napa auto parts store.It's made from Diatomaceous Earth.
Bonsai gardeners use it.It holds alot of water and doesn't break down.
I believe it supply's silica,too.

 

[!!!]

very interesting, thanks.

 

[mrred]

roottrappers from rootmaker do a good job for me so far and they are real cheap, 3gal =2 dollars 1 gallon = 1$

 

[Hippiejesus1187]

I use Floor-Dry from Napa auto parts store.It's made from Diatomaceous Earth.
Bonsai gardeners use it.It holds alot of water and doesn't break down.
I believe it supply's silica,too.

Floor dry medium is the best, can mix with coco 50/50, with just floor dry in the rez area... I usually yield around 2 grams per watt in this medium, works great with automated bato/dutch buckets too! Though I get just as good a yield without automation, just feed every other day when smaller then every morning during flower... Sometimes it may get musky so I also add peroxide into the feed, nothing but white roots in either floor dry or coco/floor dry!

 

[Creeperpark]

Reduce the ratio of vermiculite by 1/2 and it should fix the problem..

 

[goingrey]

Anyone tried biochar instead of vermiculite?