Looks pretty easy to me. 10/2 with ground on a 30A double pole breaker in your main panel. Put a black piece of tape around the white wire that attaches to the 30A breaker. Both black and white wires will attach to the 30A DP breaker in the main panel. Attach the bare ground wire to the neutral/grounding bus terminal in the main panel.
If you have exposed joists in the basement, use a 3/4" auger bit to drill thru the joists. Drill right through the center of the joist with relation to top and bottom. Also, try to stay near a concrete wall. Try not to drill through the middle third span wise of a joist if that makes sense. These holes are to fish your 10/2 with ground through. Buy a piece of grey electrical conduit at Home Depot. Once you want to take the 10/2 down the side of the basement concrete wall, attach the grey electrical conduit to the wall with masonry screws and 1/2" pipe clamps to secure the electrical conduit. Just push your 10/2 down the conduit until it comes out the bottom. Looks like there is a knockout on the side of the timer. Buy a white plumbing elbow or something to mate with the electrical conduit so you can run the 10/2 into the timer so no cable is exposed. Mount the timer to the concrete wall with masonry screws as well.
With me so far? Everything securely fastened.... Take your incoming black wire and attach it to terminal 1. Take your incoming white wire and attach it to terminal 3. Take the incoming bare wire and attach it to the ground screw. Put a piece of black electrical tape arond the white wire in the timer box.
Buy some MC cable that has 10/2 with ground. Run it out of another knockout in the timer box. The green sheathed wire attaches to the grounding screw. The black wire attaches to terminal 2. The white wire (put a piece of black tape around it) attaches to terminal 4.
Take this length of 10/2 MC (Metal Clad) cable and run it how ever far you need to get it to where you want your receptacles. Buy a quad gang box.
Try to use the metal ones. Take the MC cable through one of the middle knockouts. Unless your really skilled with a hack saw, you'll want to buy some MC cable cutters.
The roll of MC you bought should come with redheads (anti-short bushings). Cut enoungh of the jacket off the MC so you have atleast a foot of conductors sticking in the quad metal box. Use a metal NM connector to securely fasten the MC cable to the metal box.
So once you install the redhead into your freshly cut MC cable (to protect the inside conductors from getting damaged on the rough cut edges of your MC outer sheathing, tighten down the NM connector until the MC cable is held securely in place.
Now you have about 12" of green, black and white conductors in the quad metal box with about 3/8" of MC cable jacket entering the box. Get a green grounding screw. These can be had at Lowes or Home depot as well.
Strip atleast 6 inches of the green insulation off until your left with bare copper conductor. Find a hole in the quad metal box that one of those green grounding screws fit into. Start threading it just a couple turns so it stays. Take your stripped green insulated conductor and wrap it around the grounding screw paying close attention that when you tighten the grounding screw down all the way, it will pull the bare conductor tight and not squeeze it out. Once the green grounding screw is really torqued down, You should have bought atleast 4 grounding leads from Home depot or lowes as well.
Actually, forget about buying the grounding screws separate because we can use the ones that come with the pigtails. bare Whatever few inch piece of copper is left from when you tightened down the grounding screw, take a pair of linemans pliers and mechanically twist all the grounds together. Then wirenut 4 of the above grounding pigtails to the bare copper conductor that is attached to the back of your box. You'll need the big blue wirenuts for this. When your using linemans pliers to mechanically twist wire together, use very little force at first. Kind of let the wire slip through the plier heads. With each turn of the wrist, put more pressure on the bare copper wire that your trying to twist. You will eventually get all of the ends of wires to line up with each other and it will look like(and be) a really nice electrical connection. If you just really clamp down on all the wires at once and then twist really hard, wires will slip out and it'll look like shit and you'll have to do it over again. Sounds silly but there actually is a correct way to twist wires together. You'll figure it out.
Cut about a foot piece off of any left over 10/2 with ground romex and get the black and white conductors out of it. Put black pieces of tape around 4 white wires and then you should also have 4 black wires. Wire nut all the blacks together (including your incoming black lead from the timer box). Do the same with the white wires but make sure each white wire has a piece of black electrical tape around it.
Now you have 4 black wires, 4 white wires and 4 green wires inside your quad gang metal box.
Need I continue?
These are 240v receptacles. Put a black on one side and a white on the other and then a green on the grounding screw of the receptacle. Do that for all 4 receptacles, then find a metal box cover that will work with your receptacles. If there are any plastic round or square thing-a-ma-bobs holding the mounting screw for the receptacle in place, remove those. You want metal on metal contack with the yoke(strap) of the receptacle to the metal of the box.
I think that's pretty stupid because that 4 gang box is going to be really tight with all those pigtails, but.... whatever.NEC 2008 Article 314.16(B)(1) said:
Madpenguin said:
You need to make some pigtails.Plain and simple. Take a foot long piece of 10/2 romex and cut it in half. Remove the outer orange sheathing. You should have 2 white conductors, 2 black conductors and 2 bare copper conductors.Madpenguin said:
Not only will that circuit being seeing the load of all your equipment but any other receptacles in your house that are on the same circuit will be putting additional draw on that old wiring.Same deal with my place. That is, until I replaced the old 1913 Square D fuse box with a new 100A siemens loadcenter. You need to be extra carefull with your setup and I need to be extra carefull giving you advice. I need pics.
Yea... I can almost guarantee your incoming feeder from the meter is probably only rated to handle 60A. Not only that, if you live in a house that has been divided into 4 units or even a duplex, your incoming feeder conductors could be run inside metal conduit along with your neighbors.
Don't do it. Not only will that thing probably put out a shitty sine wave but your still using ancient tinned copper Knob & Tube wiring.
It is. First thing is first. Need lots of pictures. Also, there is always a way to run a new line from the basement to the attic. Check where the bathtub plumbing goes up. A drop chain works well. The space that my plumbing is in is so large that I can almost open my access hatch to the bathtub plumbing and shimmy my way down into my neighbors section of the basement. It should also go straight up into an attic crawl space if your lucky.
