WAAAH! More Spider Mites. Can I kill them with Predator Mites? Help With your input

[LolaGal]

Hi! Thanks for stopping by!

I got spider mites last mother's day. Hitch hikers from a greenhouse.

I have some nice buds flowering, thought I had the Borg Killed off, and I see they are back.

I am thinking about ordering Predator Mites to eat the spider mites. Minimum orders are around 1,000 predator mites for a minimum order.

They are about $40 total.

Do ya'll have experience with these predator mites?

Where is a good place to get them?

I had to cut off the top cola of my Sourbubble early today, cause they were tearing it up!

I am sure they will never be gotten rid of without Floramite, but I don't want to use it during blooming.


I have seen even comments related to searching predator mites here. Some say they work, some say they don't.

Tell me what you think before I get the credit card out again.

 

[unclefishstick]

bummer

bummer

predator mites work best when applied at beginning of infestation if they are well established all out warfare is usually required. imo it may be too late for pred mites,only dealt with em once,had to cut and run,and bleach the crap out of everything

 

[river rat01]

i say we take off and nuke them from orbit.

seriously, ive gotten rid of them with neem oil at a much higher concentration than the label calls for.

 

[LolaGal]

i say we take off and nuke them from orbit.

seriously, ive gotten rid of them with neem oil at a much higher concentration than the label calls for.

yuck, I ain't spraying big fat buds with neem oil or any kind of pesticide.

It is predator mites or nothing.

I know what is gonna happen next. I am gonna order them and then a bunch of people will say they are crap. LOL.

And then I will order them at an expensive place, and then somebody will tell how they found them cheap elsewhere... heehee.

 

[barletta]

Lola

What happened to all of those lady bugs? I used a bag of (1500, I think - ~80% alive)hydro shop ladybugs to knock out a mite problem this summer, and I have a lil population that teamed up with my basement's native spiders to take care of any 'flare ups', lol.

I know you have cursed the neem, but the plants LOVE it, and it is completely absorbed. I've never tasted neem in my buds, and I've sprayed as late as ~2wks before chop. Neem+Kelp+coco wet = happy plants, and I've NEVER had a mold issue. No exp with the predator buggies, however.

 

[Vigil]

Lady bugs? Or I always wanted praying mantis.

 

[HIGHRIDER]

I have used neem also and its the bee's knee's.

 

[hippie_lettuce]

Dang Lola I can never keep up with your threads, lol. Thank goodness I have tracked this one down! Okay, got some info lined up for you..

In case you feel that the problem of spider mites is not too great, you can wait for sometime, to see whether it gets solved on its own. Insects like lady beetles, predatory mites and big-eyed bugs are natural predators of spider mites and can easily get rid of the problem for you. Since these predators can be killed by insecticides, make sure to spray them carefully and save the beneficial insect species.
One of the major conditions supporting the outbreak of spider mites on plants is dryness. So, make sure to give your plants adequate water, especially during the dry periods. In case of sturdy plants, you can even hose them down periodically. This will help in removing the dust on their leaves and thus, restrain the spider mite webbing that holds the eggs and leads to the break.
In order to retain moisture in plants, try to keep them away from late afternoon sun and arid weather. This solution can work mainly in the case of potted plants, which you can remove from direct sunlight and put under shade. In case of plants that are attached to the ground, try to provide them shade in any other way. For indoor plants, you can draw the shades or move them out of direct sunlight. Using a humidifier next to the plants is another option.
In case you feel that the problem is not going away by natural means, make your own insecticide and get rid of the spider mites. For the purpose, add 5 tbsp liquid dish detergent to 1 gallon water. Repeated sprayings will be required to kill the mites. While spraying, ensure that you do use it on the undersides of the leaves. This is because spray will only kill those spider mites that it comes in contact with.
Another homemade insecticide comprises of alcohol and water. (I Think they mean rubbing alcohol here). For making the same, add 1 part alcohol to 1 part water i.e. use both in equal quantities. Since rubbing alcohol is poisonous, it will kill the mites on contact. At the same time, it evaporates quickly and thus, will do little damage to your plant. Make sure to use the spray on the entire plant, paying emphasis on the bottoms of the leaves.
If you feel that even homemade insecticide is not helping you kill spider mites, you have the option of using a miticide or other pesticide on your plants. They should be applied once every five days, till all signs of spider mite infestation go away. Remember that it is quite difficult to get rid of spider mites, even when you use pesticides. So, before using such harmful substances, weigh the pros and cons first.

Biological Control

If you have mice in your house and you get a cat to take care of the problem, then you have just practiced what is known as ‘biological control.’ You have introduced a predator into the unwanted population. You have no mice anymore. But you do now have a cat. This is the danger of biological control. A new concern may arise from the species that has been introduced. It can exemplify the adage ‘the cure is worse than the disease.’ With regard to the two-spot there is a means of biological control that has proven effective and, surprisingly, the introduced predator, takes care of itself. It is called Phytoseiulus persimilis.

This is truly a case of mite versus mite. Phytoseiulus is a mite, but it doesn’t feed on plants. It eats mites. Once they have eaten all the two-spotted spider mites, they turn on themselves. They eat each other. Voila! The mice are gone. And so is the cat.

Chemical control

WiltPruf is a chemical available at most garden supply stores. It is designed to be used during times of drought. It slows evaporation of water through plant leaves by covering the leaves with a thin film. This is harmless to the plant when used as directed. Try spraying the mites with this product. The theory here is that since the two-spot is so dependent on evaporation for its survival, a coating of Wiltpruf prevents that evaporation and the mites die. It does not kill the eggs. Apply three times at five day intervals.

UltraFine is a highly refined petroleum oil spray that will kill both the mites and their eggs. Repeat the application in ten days or so in case you missed eggs or mites on the first application. Remember: get the underside of the leaves as well as the top sides and use caution on soft-leaved plants as foliage damage can occur.

Rose Defense Spray by Greenlight is a botanical oil from the seed of the neem tree that smothers the mites but is gentle on the plants.

Isopropyl alcohol and water at a 50% dilution with a few drops of dishwashing detergent to a quart is an effective mitecide. It’s best to spray it in early morning or late in the day when evaporation is slower. If possible repeating the application 15-20 minutes later will ensure complete control.

We’ve found no damage to foliage even with repeated treatment which can be done at a 4-5 day interval in case a few stray mites were missed. Avid is another well-known chemical that will kill the mites. Be careful. Follow the instructions on the label. If you can’t find any of these chemicals and you decide to try something else, just remember that these critters have eight legs. They are not insects. You are looking for a miticide.



I think that since you wanna go organic, the Phytoseiulus is your best bet.

 

[medasunman]

azatrol....... and mites all gone.
also floramite....pretty much the same thing.

 

[hippie_lettuce]

This is a big-eyed bug:

which was suggested above.

The Phytoseiulus look scarier, LOL.

 

[zenoonez]

Why not choke them to death? Build a little cab and go get a bottle of argon, smother those punks and then apply some foliars to kill the ones that hatch from eggs before they mature.

 

[haze crazy]

If you don't like the taste of neem in you buds, try a few drops of cinnamon essential oil (a little goes a long way) with a quart of isopropyl alcohol and water mixed like the above poster said. spray as needed. Mites hate cinnamon, and most people love it. Eucalyptus essential oil works too but the taste is so dry and fuely. If you have a cold and still smoke that could be a good thing... Me? I use the neem and cinnamon with soap and water to mist those nasties. And a cotton ball enhanced with eucalyptus is a good thing to leave laying around in a small closet... good luck

 

[LolaGal]

I have been dicking around with pyrethrins, and Neem for a while.

I like the idea of releasing killers on the durn spider mites.

I cannot decide where to buy them. They all want like $30 at least to ship and ya gotta ship them rascals over nite.

I have been searching online all nite and there are some called Mesoseiulus longipes, california ones and the one that starts with P that Hippie told about.

There's a fourth variety as well.

Everybody selling them acts like they will wipe out them spider mites.

I wonder why more people are not using the predator mites.

apparently 5 or 6 on a plant is all you need to wipe em out.

Usually we will have to buy 500 or 1000 minimum order.

cheapest I've found is around $45 with free shipping for 500.

That seems high.

I get tired of shopping online, and not really finding a good deal on something.

 

[LolaGal]

Here's a rundown on the different predators and their differences.

Here's a rundown on the different predators and their differences.

PREDATOR MITES
To Control Spider Mites
PREDATOR MITES These predators only feed on other pest mites. They multiply twice as fast as the spider mite. When used correctly, there is no better control. For spider mite control, the general release rate is: 1 predator per leaf, or 20 to 30 per plant. Less may be used, but control will take longer. Light infestations may take 2-3 weeks to control. For heavy infestations subsequent releases may be necessary. As a preventative, release predators every 3-5 weeks. Shipped at 1-2 days delivery.
PERSIMILIS These predators do best in a humid environment of 60-90% humidity and temperatures between 55-100 F. This is an excellent all-purpose variety. Used in greenhouses, often even in cool ones, interiorscapes and on outdoor plants in humid areas. Not recommended for tall shrubs or trees. Shipping is included for In-Store Pickups of Persimilis only.

CALIFORNICUS strain will perform in temperatures from 60-90 degrees F and 60-90% humidity. They consume spider mites at a slower rate than the other strains, but can survive longer under starvation conditions, so they will usually be present if pests reinfest. They are best for house plants, greenhouses, interiorscapes and for corn and berries.

LONGIPES are reddish predators from South Africa that can handle temperatures of 100 + F and have the lowest humidity tolerance of any of the predatory mites - as low as 45% and up to 90%.

OCCIDENTALIS are versatile in habitat and feeding capabilities, and these mites are also tolerant to some pesticides. They are also well adapted for outdoor use. Can do well in hot areas where the humidity remains about 50%. Used in hot greenhouses, on tomatoes (russet mite), grapes, almonds, field corn, and interiorscapes.

 

[hippie_lettuce]

Seems like the predator mites are your best choice. I think that the $45 will be worth it. I dunno if the nurseries or landscaping supply stores will have those on hand at the moment, or where else you can physically get them without having to order online.

I know Lola...ordering online is a PITA! But sometimes, we gotta bite the bullet to save our babies!!


Edit: Okay, found some here http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?sku=PM710&AC=1
for only $35! Dunno about shipping and handling, but your plants must be saved!

 

[zenoonez]

Can grab argon at a local gas supply shop or welding joint.

 

[Mr. Greengenes]

I used predator mites once. It was about 1980 if I remember, but one thing I do remember well is that they worked. In fact, they're the only treatment I've ever tried that did work. I only bought one species, so I guess I lucked out. These days, you can buy a three species 'cocktail' that looks like a sure bet. The predators are even more sensitive to heat and humidity than their prey, so the cocktail ensures that at least one variety will like your room conditions. Also, you have to be careful not to kill the predators with any further treatments. Green lacewings are a good 'knockdown' species (better than ladybugs) to introduce before the predator mites arrive.

 

[LolaGal]

thanks mr green jeans! I been wondering if they worked for somebody.

I am gonna go place my order!

 

[always2theLeft]

Lola, did you get them yet?

I just got done with the Hot Shot No Pest Strip bullshit.

I have spider mites that I guess are the ones that are resistant to everything. The ones from Humbolt, how I got them I do not know. But I am about 2 years into combatting them.

And Yes, I have tried cutting down everything, bleaching the walls, ballasts, hoods, shampooing the carpet, etc. etc.

NO pesticides/ miticides work, they are all full of shit. Salesmen.


THe only thing I am hoping for is that some sort of predatory bug can kill them. Unless they have built up an immunity to predators as well, which might sound funny at first, but when you think about it, it is very possible.

Insects (and mites) have been known to be umongst the fastest evolving species on earth. Just look how fast these unholy fucks build up immunities to Floramite, Azatrol, Pythrum, Pyretherine, Neem, Cinnamin, Eucalyptus and all of the other awesome fun fucking things that we have all used.

I am seriously anticipating the new thread that reads "SPIDERMITES NOW EVOLVED BULLET-PROOF-MATERIAL LIKE SKIN. NOW RESISTANT TO EVERYTHING."

Did you know cock roaches can live through a nuclear explosion?

Please let me know how this worked for you, I have literally lost thousands of dollars because of these damn things.

 

[LolaGal]

we will never know if they worked or not.

I ordered some mites from PLANET NATURAL. $50

They sent them in a package with ice bags and the mites were frozen and dead when they arrived. only abou3 mites alive.

So they replaced them and sent another batch of frozen mites.

AND they kept my $50 too. the bastards. they killed kenny.

FloraMite works for about 60 days, but the will come back.