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Canna Boost V Molasses - side by side comparison.

*mistress*

Member
Veteran
Hazy Lady said:
As things progressed this week I was able to say there is a 3 or 4 day difference in actual growth*.
The growth was not the only way I was able to compare them, as I
discovered on checking the trichome's with my magnifier.
I could plainly see that the B's & D's had started to cloud up whilst the A's & C's now at a similar stage for me to judge have not got close to getting cloudy. I can say with a little confidence now that the Boost plants are 3 or 4 days in front growth wise, and can add at least the same in terms of the maturity of the trichomes, by today the trichomes on the A's & C's have now started to go cloudy albeit at the slower rate.
So I am saying if things continued on the same track, that using Boost you may be able to take around a week off a 10 week plant.
there are other ways to decrease flowering time... though he does state that it may affect yield to decrease this time...

c*nn*bis world, LUI SOG, circa 2004:
Posted by GrowGreen on March 19th, 2004 06:53 PM:
FlowerChild

I can change the harvest date (milky with some amber trichs) by increasing CO2 or cooler temps with a used, diluted res.+/- 5 to 10 days. The decrease in bloom days has a cost of lower yield. Most of the strains I grow normally finish in 50-60 days (per Seed Vender) I use the “elevated” light levels to insure the best light penetration. When you crowd the plants, what few fans you have need all the light available to make the fat “flower”s.

Remember this plant is a "Annual" genetically designed to live for one growing season.

>>Bye the way... what are u using to cover the hydron in the photo?<<<

Nothing covers the Hydroton.

Peace
GG
__________________
..more Cow Bell Gene...

Posted by dlihc rewolf on March 19th, 2004 09:06 PM:
Well GG, I contend that in your current set-up u are driving the plants to finnish early, and although u are attempting less stress they are in fact stressed. Yes CO2, cooler temps, weak feeding will assist...But it's the “elevated” light intensity that finnishes them early... you have simply exhausted their p--ential IMHO. Now this would be easy for you to test... just lift the light on one run.
F.
__________________
Life = "The rage of DNA to exploit recources"
All Accounts Are Fictional. All pictures have been borrowed for discussion purposes. This User Reserves ALL Rights.

Posted by GrowGreen on March 19th, 2004 09:42 PM:
F

Yes I am driving them to finish early. They are not stressed. I'm no stranger to stressing them. I can spot a banana 25 feet away. Ever take IR temp readings on your plants? In relation to ambient temps?
Mine are fed according to Brix,Sap EC and Sap PH. All their needs are filled on schedule. Their potential is not exhausted, it's maximum in a shorter time frame.

I never broke the 2lb mark with the light intensity lower in the time frame I needed. I can lift the light, but it will only change the yield (lower)

Peace
GG
__________________
..more Cow Bell Gene...
here, reducing light from 12/12 to 11/13, 10/14, 9/15, 8/16 also reduce flowering time... dont really focus on yield; just veg under 1k's, 20/4-24/0, in 4-5 gal containers for 7-56 days... depending on how big want plant to be...

objectively, @ this stage, seems as though boost is delivering quicker harvests, bigger flowers, etc... if delivered @ reasonable price, would perhaps seem viable... same amount of coins could go into a 22/2 veg regime & perhaps yield same. reducing flowering time seems like a nice tool to have in nute arsenal... not for 100 coins though... can easily turn on a 1k for 24/0 for a month (28 days) to grow trees & it will be >100 coins...

if into quick turn-around, & boost will facilitate desires, why not use it? not knocking use, just seems excessive coins for the r.o.i.? maybe the gardners that have used it should make such determinations though...

good follow-thru & balanced reporting from you... interested to see if taste/effect are different between test groups...

enjoy your garden!
 

Hazy Lady

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Pics Day 56/7 - Better late than never

Pics Day 56/7 - Better late than never

@ *mistress* thank-you sister, as always great post, I am always amazed that certain growers only judge stress by the appearance of 'nanas', your plants can be stressed to death and not throw one ime.

Sorting the pics out now, wont be long, I had to wait till lights on which is through the night so I am a day late, back very soon

Ok Let me first say I am very sorry for the delay.
I had a huge surprise today.
I knew he was due but my big brother arrived early and as I have not seen him for such a long time I wanted to spend some time catching up. Again I am sorry for keeping anyone waiting, I'll check out the latest post's as soon as I enter this lot!

Right lets get to it, I need to explain somethings about these pics.
When I started this thread it was still Summer time, I work my grow from mid evening till mid morning. I would take the plants into my house from 7 am when it was light enough outside, take pics and have them back in the G'Room before lights off with time to spare.
As the nights have drawn in it got later and later until it was light enough to do the pics, I use a flash for the full plant shots anyway but the close-ups I have tried to use as natural light as possible, with our clocks going back last weekend, it is now impossible to do the update pics in day light & not eat into my darkness hours :mad:
I have therefore had to use a CFL a 125W to light the plants for pics, still!, things look pretty similar so no problem continuity wise.
Where I do have a problem is showing you the huge changes in the D's, haha, I can almost hear the cries of, "I knew it!, thats why she never posted this weeks pics".:D
Don't fret, I managed! but need to just say.
I noticed the change in the D's while in my grow room so they had a 600Watter lighting them up so it was very noticable, I tried using a flash to highlight the trichs but could not get any real detail, they reflected too much white and spolied them. So I have placed them real close to the CFL.
I think you will, scrub that! I KNOW you will be able to see what I am on about, it is just in real life it is far more noticeable than in the pic's.
To bring us up to date on where we are up to in general........
I have finished feeding all 8 plants now, I will give them just ph'd water till the end now, I will not 'flush' as such for the next week, I like them to have enough water to soak them fully, but not till run-off!, I prefer that during the first week of 'flushing' the PH'd water loosens any remaining nutrients in the coco for the plants to use up, then I start to run 7 or 8 litres through a 6.5 Lt pot every other day to ensure some run-off, I do this for the next week and as many days/week beyond this till finished. I hope that makes sense? here are this weeks pics.
Below, A - Control plants, No, Canna Boost, No Molasses.
IMG_0868.JPG

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Below, B - Canna Boost plants.

IMG_0889.JPG

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Edit. The 4th picture says 47 day's, of course it should read 57 day's.
 

Hazy Lady

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Pics Day 56/7

Pics Day 56/7

Straight on with the other pics........
I should say, the plants are not as light as they may appear, it is the flash!.
A better representation of the colour can be viewed in the close-up shots under CFL light, any damage is just the scars from the Ca issue early in the grow, you can see the rest of any damaged leaf is nice and healthy, green and shiny.
Below, C - Molasses plants @ day 57 12/12.
IMG_0913.JPG

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--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Below, D - plants - Canna Boost & Molasses @ day 57 of 12/12
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I think you will agree the buds above, the D's are ahead of the A's & C's, in terms of straight bud development. They are at a similar stage to the B's, but in terms of trichome coverage the D's are now in a league of their own, the camera can't do it justice really, from here they are superb.
There you go :D
IMG_0965.JPG

The D plants are in very nice condition, apart from the nice crystals, as you can see.
I believe the Molasses is feeding the boost process so it the the plants reserves are untouched.
I will be interested to see just how much each group has in reserve and any different effects they may bring, as we go through flushing.
 
B

bonecarver_OG

... not for 100 coins though... can easily turn on a 1k for 24/0 for a month (28 days) to grow trees & it will be >100 coins...

if into quick turn-around, & boost will facilitate desires, why not use it? not knocking use, just seems excessive coins for the r.o.i.? maybe the gardners that have used it should make such determinations though...

good follow-thru & balanced reporting from you... interested to see if taste/effect are different between test groups...

enjoy your garden!

good points :D

it definetly is cheaper putting in more ligth in the flowering area - and also yields and quality will improve a lot.

there is nothing as good for the plants as enormous levels of light. i swear when i say doubling light will double yields. now there is no product anywhere that could ever do that.

it is allways possible to add more light into almost any grow setup. it is well spent bucks. more lights mean plants will metabolize more nutrients, and use more water and air etc - :D

i used boost allready before and have gotten to same conclusion - it does decrease flowering time with about a week.

we found the buds harvested normally had better taste and potency than the boost plants.

but still all in all a nice thread and a good spent time reading it :D hehe :pumpkin:

peace all

peace
 

indifferent

Active member
Veteran
I'm very keen to see the pics when they are ready. I just put 4 new plants into flower - a White Rhino, the only one to germ from 7 seeds left from a really old pack of Mr Nice, a Mango cutting, an Appalachia cutting (Green Crack x Tresdawg) and a White KC cutting, They are in a mix of Diatomite, Coco, Worm Casts and Vermiculite with a liberable dose of BAC Funky Funghi, a handful of 5-16-0 Bonemeal and a handful of 0-0-30 rock phosphate, basically because I am using up stuff I have lying around.

I am at day 38 with cuttings of the Mango and White KC and they are both looking great, fed with the organic regime I described in an earlier post plus three doses of AN Powdered Big Bud (just cos I happened to have a load of it someone gave me free). I am going to use the same regime of the cuttings I put in today, but will add some things and see if they make any difference. The soilmix the ones at 38 days are in is very similar, only difference is no Diatomite and I used Rootgrow mychorrizae and the new ones have BAC Funky Funghi which contains more species of beneficial funghi than the Rootgrow.

Because the soilmix is pretty much the same and the nute regime will be the same apart from I will omit the powdered Big Bud but add Jaggery Goor for the sugars and vitamins and other goodies, This will show me what organic nute regime with molasses and Big Bud does compared to the same without Big Bud, similar to your test with Boost so we will have some more data to judge molasses vs fancy additive before too long. I'm keen to see if the Big Bud adds yield and what it does to taste and quality.
 

hilbie

Member
thx for knowlegde of when to use it, i guess i used it to close to my strickly water end days, i dont think it went more then 5 days without it. plus its n ingrediant in plenty of nutes i imagine already.
 

Hazy Lady

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Thanks Fellas

Thanks Fellas

good points :D

it definetly is cheaper putting in more ligth in the flowering area - and also yields and quality will improve a lot.

there is nothing as good for the plants as enormous levels of light. i swear when i say doubling light will double yields. now there is no product anywhere that could ever do that.

it is allways possible to add more light into almost any grow setup. it is well spent bucks. more lights mean plants will metabolize more nutrients, and use more water and air etc - :D

i used boost allready before and have gotten to same conclusion - it does decrease flowering time with about a week.

we found the buds harvested normally had better taste and potency than the boost plants.

but still all in all a nice thread and a good spent time reading it :D hehe :pumpkin:

peace all

peace

Yes b, not for the first time, I agree totally, double the light double the yield, I hope you are able to see what I have been saying is happening in the new pic's, seems the B's are behaving as you predicted with around a week off the bloom period, I don't know what differences there will be smoke wise but I am certain there will be some!.
The D's seem to have had the smoothest journey up to now, with what could well end up the best results!. When I harvest (touch wood) and I can place buds side by side you will get a much better idea of what's what from a photo, but trust me those D's look so good. Well they ALL look superb to be honest, I will not be sad to have to end up with a pound of these buds :biglaugh:
Thank's for the kind words bones, you added a hellova lot to this thread yourself, as have all the regulars.
It makes it really enjoyable overall having you guy's over here :)

I'm very keen to see the pics when they are ready. I just put 4 new plants into flower - a White Rhino, the only one to germ from 7 seeds left from a really old pack of Mr Nice, a Mango cutting, an Appalachia cutting (Green Crack x Tresdawg) and a White KC cutting, They are in a mix of Diatomite, Coco, Worm Casts and Vermiculite with a liberable dose of BAC Funky Funghi, a handful of 5-16-0 Bonemeal and a handful of 0-0-30 rock phosphate, basically because I am using up stuff I have lying around.

I am at day 38 with cuttings of the Mango and White KC and they are both looking great, fed with the organic regime I described in an earlier post plus three doses of AN Powdered Big Bud (just cos I happened to have a load of it someone gave me free). I am going to use the same regime of the cuttings I put in today, but will add some things and see if they make any difference. The soilmix the ones at 38 days are in is very similar, only difference is no Diatomite and I used Rootgrow mychorrizae and the new ones have BAC Funky Funghi which contains more species of beneficial funghi than the Rootgrow.

Because the soilmix is pretty much the same and the nute regime will be the same apart from I will omit the powdered Big Bud but add Jaggery Goor for the sugars and vitamins and other goodies, This will show me what organic nute regime with molasses and Big Bud does compared to the same without Big Bud, similar to your test with Boost so we will have some more data to judge molasses vs fancy additive before too long. I'm keen to see if the Big Bud adds yield and what it does to taste and quality.

Hey Indi, that sound excellent, the more tests we see!, the better, you certainly have enough gear knocking about to run a few! :D
I think a blend of Booster and Molasses is a good way to go, the booster doing the boosting and the Molasses providing the fuel to do it, to put it real simply. as for which booster is best, and in what amounts etc will take 1 or 2 tests yet eh!.
Lucky the one seed that popped was a girl huh!, Shanti's Whites are the best whites imo, I hope she is a cracker for you. Are they in a thread?
thanks for all your posts too indi.

thx for knowlegde of when to use it, i guess i used it to close to my strickly water end days, i dont think it went more then 5 days without it. plus its n ingrediant in plenty of nutes i imagine already.

You are very welcome hilbie :)
Oh it needs a bit more than 5 days hilbie, I wouldn't write it off yet as I said.
You won't believe how tasty it can make buds with the right use and proper flushing. Make sure you stick around, be getting to some pre-smoke test conclusions soon enough :wave:
 

hilbie

Member
the best advice for all growers is this= basic nutes ph'd, basic medium that can breath and fresh air, after that more light =more buds. its really that simple. all the boosters n carbs dont mean anything compared to this and for the fanatics that buy 5 nutes for a grow and mix this with that, a simple additional little 70hps light on just a few sqarefeet of your bitches will make u more money then all theese aditives combined and fed to all your plants, the increase is so slight, add more then 70 watts =even more bud. not trying to hi jack the thread but at times people forget were the improvements really come from.
 

indifferent

Active member
Veteran
Hey Indi, that sound excellent, the more tests we see!, the better, you certainly have enough gear knocking about to run a few! :D
I think a blend of Booster and Molasses is a good way to go, the booster doing the boosting and the Molasses providing the fuel to do it, to put it real simply. as for which booster is best, and in what amounts etc will take 1 or 2 tests yet eh!.

Lucky the one seed that popped was a girl huh!, Shanti's Whites are the best whites imo, I hope she is a cracker for you. Are they in a thread?
thanks for all your posts too indi.

I tend to think your supposition about booster + molasses will turn out to be correct. I wouldn't shell out a wad of cash for a booster but as I happen to have been gifted the AN powders, I figured why not give em a try, see if they do give any benefit over a full organic regime that already includes a whole host of goodies.

I don't actually know is this Rhino is a male or female, been vegging a couple of months and I had some trouble getting a rooted cutting, I clone everything before I flower it, just in case as you never know when growing from seed when an exceptional individual will crop up. If it is male, I will toss it but may keep one of the small cuts for future dabbling of pollen.

The same day I put the four new clones into flower I added a DIY CO2 generator - a 2 litre milk jug with a 7g packet of yeast and a load of sugar then topped up with water, I put a but too much water in I think as it fizzed up over the top. Elevator Man has been using this method for a few months and tells me it has increased his yield. The yest is 50p a packet and the sugar is less than a quid a bag so any boost it does give is well worth it given the very cheap cost.
 

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indifferent

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As for the cuttings I am working with, here is the White KC, first at 25 days then at 38, I cut out N at day 30 so you can see some fading of the green of the leaves have taken place already, resin production is looking promising but it remains to be seen if she is a keeper. Yield looks to be okay and I think she will probably take 60 days, but I'm letting her go till she's got plenty of amber as she's a full-on indica and I want a nice stony smoke from her.
 

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indifferent

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Despite being called White, she isn't the frostiest thing in the garden, my best looking plant so far is this Purple Afghan x Abusive OG Kush, looks very Kush dom but hasn't got the stretch of the Abusive, the Afghan shortened her a lot and looks like it has added bulk to yield too, buds are very dense, calyxes are huge, resin is prodigous, got a lemony smell with hints of pine, I'm excited to see how this girl finishes up, she will probably take at least 70 days as she is a fair bit behind the White KC and Mango.

This plant has been getting the powdered Big Bug along with the full organic regimen, but as it's the first time I've run her, no idea if the Big Bud has made any difference or not, she is at 38 days, next run is without the Big Bud so I thought I better post some pics of the Big Bud version for comparison.
 

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Hazy Lady

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Thanks lads

Thanks lads

the best advice for all growers is this= basic nutes ph'd, basic medium that can breath and fresh air, after that more light =more buds. its really that simple. all the boosters n carbs dont mean anything compared to this and for the fanatics that buy 5 nutes for a grow and mix this with that, a simple additional little 70hps light on just a few sqarefeet of your bitches will make u more money then all theese aditives combined and fed to all your plants, the increase is so slight, add more then 70 watts =even more bud. not trying to hi jack the thread but at times people forget were the improvements really come from.

Hey hilbie, don't worry about hijackin, I like the debate.
I can't argue with what you're saying, 'cept I have ladies not bit*hes :D
If I could throw another 600W I know it would be the biggest improvement I could make for certain, in terms of yield!. I am looking for genuine improvements in quality more than quantity, like everyone else extra weight is always welcome but not essential. An extra lamp would be the most expensive way to go, It would not just be a case of adding a lamp alone as you know, then the extra bill to run light, fans/extractor, If I sold and could easily re-coupe the cash it would be the way to go. As it is, I don't think I would want to change things, not for this grow-room anyway. It took a long time setting up the intake/outake while keeping the temps in the best range because I grow underground, for now I am looking for any other way to improve crops without using electricity. Thanks hilbie

I tend to think your supposition about booster + molasses will turn out to be correct. I wouldn't shell out a wad of cash for a booster but as I happen to have been gifted the AN powders, I figured why not give em a try, see if they do give any benefit over a full organic regime that already includes a whole host of goodies.

I don't actually know is this Rhino is a male or female, been vegging a couple of months and I had some trouble getting a rooted cutting, I clone everything before I flower it, just in case as you never know when growing from seed when an exceptional individual will crop up. If it is male, I will toss it but may keep one of the small cuts for future dabbling of pollen.

The same day I put the four new clones into flower I added a DIY CO2 generator - a 2 litre milk jug with a 7g packet of yeast and a load of sugar then topped up with water, I put a but too much water in I think as it fizzed up over the top. Elevator Man has been using this method for a few months and tells me it has increased his yield. The yest is 50p a packet and the sugar is less than a quid a bag so any boost it does give is well worth it given the very cheap cost.

I do like the way things are going with a blend of the Boost and Molasses, I would like to eventually take that to the active ingredient + Molasses or a.n other cheaper booster + Molasses that could reduce the huge cost?

Oh!, spoke too soon, with luck it will be a she, your plants look good Indi', I really like the look of the last pics, she looks sweet, and IS pretty white, once those leaves are gone they must glow!

I never used Co2 to grow, never had the higher temps I would need, even in the middle of summer I only just reach 78*F.
I would like to see Co2 in action, you think it definitely worth the effort then? at least yours only cost pennies a day, you can spend a small fortune on delivery gear and meters for gas can't you.
Do keep posting these girls as they progress, be nice to how they finish.
thanks Indi :)
 

Hazy Lady

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Big Bug huh... is that like, an additive that will help the plant attract and feed bugs? :biglaugh: j/k

:D


In your sig........
Originally Posted by Burnt Rope
COCO.... frankly Ive been somwhat skeptical of coco...

The university studies Ive read give mixed results.....

Thats why for me I probably would not consider coco....
I don't understand how one could mess up growing in Coco, if you follow a couple of basic rules, flushing mainly!, it is quite an easy medium to grow in, maybe THE easiest?
If the universities had 'mixed' results that would lead me to think it is possible to get good results, better than some half asleep, hung over, NSU ridden student at any rate :biglaugh:
 

Elevator Man

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My yeast method is about .5 litres of warm water, one teaspoon of dried yeast, and two dessertspoons of sugar in a 1 litre pop bottle. That definitely won't overflow, and after two days you can add a tiny bit more yeast and one dessertspoon of sugar - it'll froth up quick, so don't shake it at all! Run that for another day, and then chuck it all down the toilet - not the sink, as it'll stink for days! And then just do it again.

I've got two bottles in now, and it's really, really making a difference - on of the OTMs I have is absolutely huge.
 

indifferent

Active member
Veteran
Hi Eman, thanks for stopping by. Damn, I got my CO2 all wrong! I almost filled the bottle with water, then gave it a good shake so it frothed everywhere!

I shall replace the bottle today putting only half a litre of water in and fresh yeast and sugar.

Coco rocks BTW, if you water it daily you can get hydro results, if you treat it like soil, you'll get soil results, for me, the best point is theway it's so forgiving of mistakes - mess up and you can just flush it out. The other thing I like is the way you can tweak your feeding ad infinitum.

I have switched to a coco based organic soil mix of my own concoction, but this is more because I love playing with different grow techniques than any lack of love for coco growing, I will probably go back to straight coco after a couple of organic soil runs.
 

*mistress*

Member
Veteran
I never used Co2 to grow, never had the higher temps I would need, even in the middle of summer I only just reach 78*F.
I would like to see Co2 in action, you think it definitely worth the effort then? at least yours only cost pennies a day, you can spend a small fortune on delivery gear and meters for gas can't you.
this may be helpful:

*5 gal bucket w/ lid (free)
*fruit juice (dollar store)
*1# of brown sugar per gallon of juice. (dollar store)
*teaspoon of yeast (dollar store)
*teaspoon baking soda (dollar store)

- pour 3 gal of juice into bucket
- pour 1# brown sugar into bucket
- pour 1 tbsp yeast into bucket
- cut drill 1 1/2"-1" hole into lid of bucket. save scrap piece
- use duct tape to make scrap piece into latch
- tape latch shut & agitate bucket
- bucket should have frothing, cooking lather w/in 3 days
* the frothing, bubbling surface of the mix is c02
- pour in ~1# sugar per 1 gal juice ~every 3-7. when mix gets to w/in 4" below lid, extract ~1-2 gal of mix & replace w/ appropriate amount of juice+sugar.

continuing this process keep mix going indefinitely... this is how original batches of 400+ yr old liquor are maintained & mfg can accurately state that they still have original batch... similar to cloning...

ask any q's about this... have never used machines to make c02; only multiple 5 gal buckets, w/ small fans attached to step-down tubing; simply by fans; in thermoses hanging from ceiling, etc, etc...

most home brewers use cheapo bubble counters to guage efficacy... have brewed for twenty 360's, so can tell when needs sugar by taste & amount of cooking...

can also use pulp/innards of fruit as 'kicker', or mash... a bit messier & will have to strain mix... but kicker is what keeps vibrant... can basically take a hand full of kicker, place into another container, pour in juice & it will turn the juice in 3 days; will be bubbling...

kicker:
*pulp from oranges, apples, grapefruits
*raisins, grapes
*rice, potatoes, (uncooked)

can be kept in mason jar w/ seed sprouter-type mesh lid, or other mesh/strainer-type material that does not let fruit particles get into mix... or just strain later... if no intent to consume mix, can just let kicker float in mix...

hope this helps. enjoy your garden!
 
Last edited:
B

bonecarver_OG

I don't understand how one could mess up growing in Coco, if you follow a couple of basic rules, flushing mainly!, it is quite an easy medium to grow in, maybe THE easiest?
If the universities had 'mixed' results that would lead me to think it is possible to get good results, better than some half asleep, hung over, NSU ridden student at any rate :biglaugh:

aagreed :D hehe

but id like to see what univeristy report gives negative feedback on coco?

please add link?!

peace
 

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