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Spider mites AKA The Borg

Irie_Lion

Free up the Herbs....Let the Sacrament grow!
Veteran
if u use it early into flowering 1-2 weeks u shouldnt...Not really sure about later into flower as i have only used it till the 4th week at most with no bad taste spray em down with water a few days after to help rinse it off if u use it towards very end...
 
if u use it early into flowering 1-2 weeks u shouldnt...Not really sure about later into flower as i have only used it till the 4th week at most with no bad taste spray em down with water a few days after to help rinse it off if u use it towards very end...

Thanks for the quick reply... I had planned on doing a little repair work to my rooms, along with cleaning everything with diluted bleach, replacing the plants (which I sprayed all plants I have down in all rooms with the Organocide). I do plan on doing a "flush" spray, I will wait 2 days and spray the 2 close to harvest with straight water. Luckily my humidity in my flower room is a steady 40%-50% with an intake, exhaust, 2 10" fans, and a 24" fan going all the time, I was a little worried about bud rot, but I don't think I'll have an issue with the humidity and air movement that I have.

Thanks.
 

bluntt

Member
tobacco method

tobacco method

i have clones infested with mites,seen the lil bogers underneath the leaf i knew it had to be something else other than deficiency now,my question is,does the tobacco method works if not what does im at war,right now im using fungicide 3 thats miticide,fungicide,insecticide all in one with the active ingredient .09% neem oil added.Will this work?
 

bluntt

Member
i figured i best post a pic so all U's know what im talking about
 

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My biggest concern with what your using is that it says "controls spider mites". I used the Organoside and from what I can tell, with one heavy shot on all of my plants, I have yet to see a living thing now on my plants, althought I will keep checking. Not sure on the tabacco, but I know the Organoside killed a lot/all for me, my infestation was fairly minor, except for one flowering plant had a few more than others, but all seem to be dead. The stuff I used says it kills all forms of spider mites, eggs, little ones, adults...
 

bluntt

Member
My biggest concern with what your using is that it says "controls spider mites". I used the Organoside and from what I can tell, with one heavy shot on all of my plants, I have yet to see a living thing now on my plants, althought I will keep checking. Not sure on the tabacco, but I know the Organoside killed a lot/all for me, my infestation was fairly minor, except for one flowering plant had a few more than others, but all seem to be dead. The stuff I used says it kills all forms of spider mites, eggs, little ones, adults...
yup i thought that control mean control and not kill,ill try the tobacco method and post results later in the tread
 

bluntt

Member
im going to buy some of that Floramite miticide since everyone at least most of you recommend it; it says it kills the eggs also
 

Wingedson

New member
Ice Water!

Ice Water!

Ice Water works great if you want to kill the little buggers off. Obviously it won't kill them all in one spray on a larger plant, but on smaller plants, especially if your grow is fairly small, it works wonders. Nukes them on contact, and the water temp warms up quick if you mist. The water needs to be FREEZING. Like 3/4 Ice, the rest of your spray container water. I have used Floramite, Azatrol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Pyrethrum bombs, and Castille Soap. The Systemic Miticides seem to work great at first, and then over time the mites gain resistance. Pyrethrum is great for a one time kill, but you will have to do multiple bombs if you have a large infestation. If you are flowering, and in your last 2 weeks before harvest, go ahead and trim of the leaves with over 30% mite damage. This will remove a lot of the little eggs. I know a lot of folks don't like pruning their fan leaves off, but in those last few weeks your ladies will be fine. Ice Water has been the single most effective thing for clearing mites out of a garden that is resisting any other help. And, personally I think Ice Water is the safest, healthiest option as well. The mites can't build up Ice Water resistance. Plus, your girls will get a shower. Always a good thing. So spray your plants a few times ( in the dark of course ), repeat daily until there are no signs of Borg. Luck in battle folks! :dueling:
 

attila76

Member
Seriously now,

No one has proposed tobacco tea?

With all of these experienced gardeners Gardengineer only mentioned it in passing.

Tobacco tea is highly effective in killing all spider mites. I recently had to restart my grow from root aphids, (which are indestructable). I then got some clones infected with spider mites.
Now they are all dead, (the spider mites that is.) Its been a week since I've seen a live one, and there are many dead ones left on the leaves. Even the eggs seem to have died as well. Looks like a ghost town down there.

What exactly did I do?
Hot shot pest strips taped to my fan, in a sealed room and two treatments of tobacco tea.

Problem solved.

recipe: 1/2 cup loose tobacco, 2 cups ph balanced hot H2O, 4 ml SM-90 (or use a drop of soap to improve coverage). Steep H2O for a few hours, then microwave or boil to destroy any possible mosaic virus, let cool.

Application: Spray on plant, over and under leaves, complete coverage. Turn off lights.

MOST IMPORTANT!!! Wear protective gloves!!! Keep it off of your skin! You can get seriously poisoned, hospitalized, or dead by too much nicotine!! If you are an ex-smoker be double cautious, keep that out of your blood stream totally, you might relapse. This stuff is highly toxic (that is, for a few days at least before it breaks down.) Nicotine easily permeates the skin. Contact poisoning is a real concern protect yourself.

In response to the inevitable concerns about toxicity, and related health related issues regarding the final product:

The final product will be largely nicotine free, having no more than a tomato, because it will break down quickly.(3)

Yes, any dose of intact nicotine is at some level a toxin, not healthy, a possible carcinogen, a neurotoxin, etc, etc. Yes yes yes...

BUT (and this is a big BUT).......

"When the nicotine is exposed to sunlight, it breaks down within a few days." (1)
"The good thing about nicotine when used as a natural insecticide is that it is highly biodegradable, and can be used on crops because of this." (2) It degrades quickly so it can be used safely on many food plants nearing harvest." (4)

So, nicotine breaks down relatively quickly for our purposes.... that means that in a short period of time, say a week, those molecular bonds that constituted the nicotine will break up. In a week what was once a toxin will no longer be a toxin. As a result, tobacco tea (nicotine) is safe when handled safely. It can safely be used up to two weeks before harvest.

Some of my sources follow:
(1) http://agriculture.kzntl.gov.za/publications/books/plant_diseases/disease_7.htm
(2)http://www.all-natural-insecticides.com/homemade-insecticide.html
(3)http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/119450403/abstract?CRETRY=1&SRETRY=0
(4)http://www.docstoc.com/docs/10575540/Insecticides-Garden
 

oldbootz

Active member
Veteran
Gah ! spider mites are the devils minions...

im busy trying Margrate Roberts "Ludwigs Rose Spider Mite mixture"

seems to have cut the infection down to about 10% after 2 sprays 7 days apart

but they always come back... NEED FLORAMITE !
 
floramite people! Had friend burn the shit out of his veg. plants using organicide. Alittle soap for sticky,water and 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. floramite
 

CtHaddock

Member
Can I order floramite from a shop within the EU? Does anyone know of a shop? I can't find any with google.

EDIT: I think I would need a pestecide license.
 
floramite people! Had friend burn the shit out of his veg. plants using organicide. Alittle soap for sticky,water and 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. floramite


I did notice all of my plants didn't seem to like the stuff a few days after spraying them with it... killed over 90% of mites I'd say. Might try the Floramite in the future. Can't really complain about the Organocide really, did what it said it was going to do...

Does the Floramite have any sort of lingering smell? I noticed the Organocide being 95% fish oil leaves a pretty decent fishy smell lingering for several days, even with 6" intake and exhaust fans, still had a faint smell thru my house for a week.
 
I am reduced to trying this to break them out of my place. I clean well, but with three stages all in one garage... well. Hard to really stop it without shutting it all down, and even then it might not work.

So here it is, after trying so much. I did the Mite Eradicator, hosing, P-Bombs/sprays, neem. Floramite is pretty fuckin good, but getting everyone is dificult indeed and I see resistant mites in my future if I am not careful. So I must take measures now.

1) Dip clones in Avid. I hope to not touch it ever again. I am REALLY REALLY hoping that after a couple months I can drop it entirely.
2) Use Forbid 4F 3-4 weeks into veg. This will carry 4-8 weeks in effect. I read up on it, no worse then floramite. Apparently quite effective. Needs to be rotated- all miticides should be.
3) Use Floramite if and only if it is needed early on.
4) Azatrol from start to finish. I also intend to blast them with hose sprayer once a week during veg. Harder to do in flower.
5) Use Dr. DoRight's in final weeks if needed. Not too sure it really does shit to mites.

I am getting it in my head Penetrator is the way to go. It looks so slick on there afterward.

Everything is delivered with a fogger, so coverage is really good. I have trellis's, so there will no be way of getting it all. But Forbid is tranluminar so it works without needing to touch the underside.



What do you think? I have a one car garage. I just cleaned really well and have plants in all stages. I think I can lick em out if I do it right- it might take some time but perhaps I can win.

And if not they are in check at the least.

I can't believe it has come to this. .
 

3dDream

Matter that Appreciates Matter
Veteran
Some info on spinosad:

Abstract

Laboratory bioassays were conducted to characterize the activity of the insecticide spinosad against the twospotted spider mite, Tetranychus urticae Koch, and European red mite, Panonychus ulmi (Koch) (Acari: Tetranychidae). T. urticae females and larvae were individually placed on bean, Phaseolus vulgaris L. (Fabaceae), leaf disks treated with four rates of spinosad (25, 55, 121, and 266 ppm) and a water control. Significantly fewer T. urticae completed development on any spinosad rates (<15%) compared with the control (>85%), whereas spinosad exhibited no significant effects on P. ulmi development; 72.5 and 83.1% of P. ulmi completed development on apple (Malus pumila P. Mill, Rosaceae) leaf disks treated with 75 ppm spinosad and the control, respectively. T. urticae adult females placed on spinosad-treated disks had significantly higher mortality and lower oviposition rates compared with the water control; no significant mortality effects were observed until 3 d after placing adults on leaf disks. In choice tests where half of a bean leaf was treated with 55 ppm spinosad transversally or longitudinally, T. urticae females were repelled by spinosad and largely oviposited and fed on nonspinosad treated areas. Spinosad did not affect the behavior of P. ulmi females. When T. urticae females were released on potted bean plants (two-leaf stage) in which leaves received spinosad sprays on the adaxial or abaxial leaf surfaces, or complete spinosad coverage on one or two of the leaves, mite population increase lagged significantly behind those released on control plants. These results indicate that spinosad has significant acaricidal effects against T. urticae but not P. ulmi.

So if you have the two spotted spider mite you are ok. If you have the red mite then no go.
 
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