spider mites

[cannaboy]

Stopped mine dead I have no pests no dificiancies

Stopped mine dead I have no pests no dificiancies

Just so everyone knows, I have two flower rooms that are 18 FEET x 20 FEET each with 8 tables in each room. So I have a shitload of plants. Washing each plant is not going to be realistic.

I checked the link to hotbox but that is a sulphur burner. I thought that was for mold, not mites?

I use It before I set a grow up now as well as b4 the plants go in



I HAVE HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH THEM... I would not use it in the final weeks.. but it will seem like the best product in the world If you buy I would not do anything but try cut down your work load and worries.. The vapour changes the PH of the leaf and mold botrylis and pests are suseptibal to it the mites cant eat or reproduce you could have thrips mites catapillers nimphs whitefly any will have to go the hollocaust with this machine after a week all will be dead as breeding cycle is broken...

The unit has a problem with the power lead entering the bottom of the unit but can be taped to the handel to avoid tipping over when moving past doing daily checks..

I had mites from day 1 on my exodus and 3 years on with no mites or dificiences or mold on packed floral clusters in jampacked high humid rooms as yours is my yield is massive bud is reem!!!

 

[TrichomeWarrior]

Neem is great, it has its limitations and drawbacks, but if used properly it can keep them in check. Neem is not a contact killer, it takes some time, initially it will stop them from feeding, it works as a hormone that kills their appetite, they have no desire to eat. it can kill on initial contact but it is from smothering them(it is an oil), it also prevents eggs from hatching and will stop the formation of the exoskeleton in youngsters. they will die eventually but it takes a week or two for everything, to get rolling.
Neem will also work systemically, just water the girls with it and any critters that didnt get sprayed will get it when they suck the leaves.
a great site for more info is http://www.discoverneem.com/neem-oil-insecticide.html
and it is non toxic to most things outside of insects.

Good luck man, the borgs a bitch.

 

[spongegirlz]

after trying several organic products, picked up some organic neem seed oil at the local health food store and this stuff is dope, a crop saving miracle and appears as though it's been super beneficial to the overall health of ALL the plants with it's moisturizing benefits, as the difference from 1week ago is pretty remarkable, the plants are sooo healthy + the scent is way better/nicer than the organocide, which is pretty yuk @ 92% fish oil

recipe: 2 tsp neem oil + 1/4 tsp seventh generation dish soap per 24oz spray bottle filled with water +++ have also been adding 10 drops neem per each container when watering neem oil is a wonderful natural product

moonbeams peaceful vibes

 

[REZDOG]

MITE FAIL.

FORBID,by Bayer Pharm. = FTW.

$300 = 8 oz. = No Mites = WIN.

 

[festivus]

I bought clones a few years ago, not knowing they were infested with super spider mites. Under the microscope, these borg bastards looked like alien battle tanks. The mature adults were weird looking and huge, nothing like a normal adult mite. I ended up using Floramite, but forgot to re-apply after 30 days. The first application killed them all, but didn't get the eggs.

 

[Sam the Caveman]

Neem oil should work as it has several different modes of action against pests. For such a large scale application, I would invest in an electric atomizer, which sprays a cloud of product. They are about $200. Here http://www.rittenhouse.ca/asp/Product.asp?PG=1271
Or purchase a quality brand backpack sprayer like Solo and adjust the tip to a fine spray and continuously pump it to maintain a high pressure spray. I like to hold the spray wand upside down pointing the spray tip up and spray the plants with the nozzle in between the vertical stalks moving it up and down.

I do residential landscape pest/disease spraying and this method is the best for complete coverage of the plant, and apply liberally.

Hope you get rid of them, they turn over quickly. They don't like humidity and thrive at 80F.

 

[Sam the Caveman]

Eggs can hatch as quickly as 3 days after they are laid and become sexually mature at 5 days. I wouldn't wait more than 4 days for a second application. Neem oil applied to insects acts as an anti-feedant, they slow or stop feeding, if its on their food source they don't like it as once it is consumed their metabolism slows down dramatically. Neem oil also blocks certain hormone receptors rendering them confused and misguided.

 

[kiwikush]

can someone help me with the chemical name of the product that is used on hydro lettuce in saskatchewan for bugs it is clear, thicker than water, and smells extremely bad. It is root fed and when it is put in your feed water it stanks up your room instantly in B.C. ppl call the the stank or styank not sure on the spelling but it works very well but i dont know the actual name so i can purchase some..... can anyone help or at least point me in the right direction??? thanks

 

[puff adder]

The key to making growing fun for me is to be just growing, not fighting bugs or funguses.
This requires (for me) to act preventatively. You WILL run into issues with bugs or mold or PM at some point if you do this long enough.
Keeping the right environment is crucial, and helps, but shit happens, and so much is riding on all of this, that it's (IMO) almost irresponsible to not behave preventatively. Just this year, for the first time I got PM and root aphids. I keep a perfect environment and still got these.

For me, clones are dipped or sprayed with Floromite and Eagle-20 for PM. Both are systemics. When I flip to 12-12 the girls get sprayed with Floromite and Eagle-20 once again. I have used Azamax soil drench as a follow-up recently. For root aphids I used IMID (Bayer Tree and Shrub) again only in veg.

I've read that Floromite is not that bad, and I'd have no problem using it up to a week or 2 into flower, but no later (for me). At 30 days flowering it would be a tough call for me, I'd probably try Azamax and neem or SM-90 and try to make it to the end.
I HAVE run into floromite resistant mites however. I finished OK, but in this case, Avid would be what I'd use, but only in veg. Avid is scary, and I haven't had to use it yet.

If you buy commercial weed, you've smoked all these things and more, because I guarantee that people spray with Whatever to ensure success, they are NOT going to lose their asses. I know a few people who's weed I will not touch.

For the future, I say spray clones with Floromite and Eagle-20, and again at the 12-12 flip, and you will not have issues with bugs or PM.

The trick is behaving preventatively. It is MUCH harder to deal with Any issue once in flowering.

 

[Harpo]

To stop an ongoing infestation you can safely use No Pest Strips. It does not build bud in the bud, nor are the buds toxic to smoke afterwards.

These chemicals are cleared to be used around young pig rearing and in milking barns. They are also cleared in the U.S. for use with warehoused grain. They have been used for decades and are very safe to use.

Use lots of strips, maybe two three times what is recommended for the space of your grow. Kill your exhaust fans for twelve hours along with the lights.

They are safe, cheap, available, and will save your crop.

Mites can hide for up to a couple years in cracks. Safe from everything you can throw at them.

After the harvest, Flea and tick bombs with pyrethrins work great to clean your grow. This gets the mites out of hibernation and moving around where they can be killed. Turn off the lights and exhaust fans before igniting the bombs!

No Pest Strips work great as part of the one two punch with flea and tick bombs.

The eggs keep hatching for up to two months. Flea and tick bombs get them moving out of hibernation and the No pest Strips does the rest.

No Pest Strips are pretty anemic today compared to those of my child hood. Back in the day, a single strip in a drafty garage would kill everything. It would take three or four modern strips to do the same.

Umgawa

PS some seem to enjoy the "snap, crackle and pop" of mites in the bowl.

 

[kiwikush]

well i understand about using safe methods but all i was wondering was a name for the really good stuff and also i just wanted to point out that i dont have a young pig rearing or a milking barn but i do have a factory and i want the best if possible i just need a name thanks...

 

[straintester]

A safe alternative is neem oil like most people here mentioned but mite rid from australia is systematic so one application is usually enough. Its gentle on your plants and won't hurt any pets or animals.

Predatory mites isn't a good idea at all. Unless you first start out with more predatory mites than spider mites, this won't work and you'll end up with more mites than ever. The time it takes for this to work makes it pointless.

Ladybugs are a good choice BUT you can't use ladybugs and mite rid at the same time BUT can use neem oil and lady bugs both.