Should my Kali Mist look like this @ 45 days?

[THC•20]

Hello guys out there on icmag. I have a question. My Kali Mist seems like it's lacking, it's been flowering for about 45 days and this is all it's given me so far, does this seem like it's about right or is this going to be a problem?

 

[Ripshot]

you have got problems my friend. that plant should be halfway to done by now. What is the light cycle you have it on now?

 

[TEERCSIdbREEDER]

really dark green leaves mayb says too much N in the flowering cycle. mayb its delaying the flowering process. i hear kali mist being a really long flowerer.

 

[KaliRush]

Yea something definitely isn't right. You didn't have any major lights leaks did you? It looks like maybe

This is the 2nd day of flowering of my Kali's

This is Day 49

 

[THC•20]

What the fuck dude...is this thing ultra sensitive to light leaks or something? Everything else in the room is flowering fine. The light cycle is 12/12 like for all of my other plants in the room. I was told this plant could be flowered on 12/12, what am I doing wrong!?

 

[KaliRush]

What the fuck dude...is this thing ultra sensitive to light leaks or something? Everything else in the room is flowering fine. The light cycle is 12/12 like for all of my other plants in the room. I was told this plant could be flowered on 12/12, what am I doing wrong!?

If everything else is fine then it's probably not a light leak I would imagine. I had mine on 12/12 so it can't be that.

Do you have a journal or maybe you can tell us your setup, feeding schedule, nutes, etc and some of the more experienced guys could help.

 

[FirstTracks]

I'm gonna agree with the 'too much Nitrogen'

if you look at the picture, not only are the leaves a very dark green, but they're also showing signs of the dreaded 'claw' from nitrogen overfertilization and a little hooking of the tips.

looks like you didn't cut your N down after 2 weeks of flowering.

As it was said before, most likely, you've delayed flowering with too much N

 

[nibirubian]

flush good
dry soil quikly, move to sun if necessary
flush again
add a good bloom stim.
and put in a dark closit for 24 to 48 hours
she'll get hormonal

 

[Ripshot]

what has the growth been like the last 45 days? still seeing new leaves forming? Has the plant stretched at all?

 

[stihgnobevoli]

thats hardly the claw from overnitrification. but i will agree that theres something wrong with your plant. maybe too much n for that plant, i notice the new growth is yellowing too, thats a sign of a sulphur or iron def. whats the ph like?


this is the claw.

Now for having too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil. The plant will have like an overall DARK green look and have delayed maturity. Due to Nitrogen being involved in vegetative growth, to much nitrogen will result in tall plants with weak stems. New growth will be very lively and plant transpiration will be high, but not always. Nitrogen toxicity can be seen when there are very very dry conditions almost as if there was a drought, which may show a burning effect. If you give your plants ammonium based nutrients they may show NH4+ toxicity, which will show a smaller plant growth and lesions that occur on stems and roots, leaf margins that will roll downward. Also the big fan leaves will have “the claw” look. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing… mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased, because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well. Too much potassium and nitrogen will lock out calcium as well.

When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.

First signs of a Sulfur deficiency are pale young leaves. The growth of leaves will remain slow, but the leaves can also get brittle and stay narrower than normal. Can also have small mutated leaves, along with the buds on top of flowering plants will die off. The growth if the plant can be stunted as well as yellowing of the younger leaves and new growth. Unlike a magnesium deficiency where it starts from the leaves tip and around, sulfur starts from the back of the leaves on forward to the middle of the leaves. The Stems become Hard, thin and may be woody. Some of the plants may show orange and red tints rather than yellowing. The stems will increase in length but not in diameter. Leaves will then be stiff and brittle like glass and fall off soon. Parts affected by a Sulfur deficiency are: The whole plant can be affected as well as young leaves, leaf veins.

 

[pinecone]

Here is a picture of a Kali Mist that I grew @ exactly 6 weeks of flowering.


There is definitely something wrong with your plant. You don't have any clawing, but your plant does look pretty dam fertilized. I'm certainly no expert at cultivating sativas, but I have heard that too much N will retard flowering and have had success growing them out with very little N. In fact the plant pictured didn't get any liquid nutes for the first 3-4 weeks of flowering - and thereafter got bloom fertilizers.

Pine

 

[PazVerdeRadical]

since all your plants are flowering right in the same room, I would dare say you just stumbled upon a pheno that takes way too long to flower and finish.

my two cents

peace

 

[DRorganic]

hold on to it it might be a more sative leaning pheno if so your in for a real treat. ther are some phenos that lean more to the fast flowering phenos but the best are the long flowering
se Asian sativa Simon uses in his kalimist. like most say just hit her with a good bloom fert
and when growing sativas you have to have patience. it looks like some phenos i have grown out before

 

[kushking20]

I have a kali growing right now, Just wanted to know , is the kali mist nute sensitive?

 

[KaliRush]

hold on to it it might be a more sative leaning pheno if so your in for a real treat. ther are some phenos that lean more to the fast flowering phenos but the best are the long flowering
se Asian sativa Simon uses in his kalimist. like most say just hit her with a good bloom fert
and when growing sativas you have to have patience. it looks like some phenos i have grown out before

Mine finished in 104 days and that's with hardly any amber trichomes so unless you're looking for the more body high from a sativa for some reason, I don't know why it would go longer such as some other landrace sativas that go for 120day and up?

I have a kali growing right now, Just wanted to know , is the kali mist nute sensitive?

The only time that I experienced even a little nute burn was when I used FF's nutes at full strength for consecutive watering days as a test instead of using half strength every other watering.

 

[whodair]

I have a kali growing right now, Just wanted to know , is the kali mist nute sensitive?

Kale Mist was my most sensitive grow. light nutes and water I found out. after i yellowed all the leaves off of her and she had to grow all new ones!!

the white hairs were very wide and flat like razor blades. it was bright white, not from crytsals but from the width of the white hairs.

dont give up shes worth it

 

[THC•20]

Sorry that I haven't been replying guys. But I have been feeding my Kali Mist. How often should I feed it? I was feeding it in-between every 3 waterings. I use the same solution I always use for my plants, FloraNova Bloom (2 tsp) and Floralicious (2 t.) I don't have any nutes that exclude nitrogen so even my blooming solution has a bit of N in it. It seems to keep throwing out small amounts of wispy calyxes and it's been stopped stretching, it only stretched for about 3 weeks from when I first put it in 12/12, and then stopped. Hopefully this thing still blooms nice because it sure has a lot of branches for flowers to bloom from lol.

DRorganic, PazVerdeRadical I was thinking the same thing. Maybe it's because it's the seed plant and it's a very long flowering Sativa pheno. I just had to post the thread to get some feed back from people who's harvested this strain before because I just couldn't believe some plants actually take that long before they go into "rapid budding mode". I took clones from it so maybe the clones will begin flowering sooner or something like that. I have like 2 more female Kali Mist plants so hopefully at least one of those jumps right into blooming.


But about the feeding, do you guys suggest I make a mix specifically for the Kali or something? I don't want to starve it but @ the same time I don't want to retard it's flowering every time I give it some feed....

 

[PazVerdeRadical]

THC*20, ime, when one feeds too much N to a flowering plant, specially a sativa, it won't really delay flower, rather, it makes them produce too much leaf and makes the smoke harsh.
So I don't think it is the feeding that is keeping her from starting to bud. However, you can always give her less N than what you already are giving her, and boost the Potassium, but lightly.

plants started from seed take a lot longer than clones too.
they veg for longer ime, specially sativas or sativa dominant hybrids.

your plant looks like some of the sativas I have grown, they sex and stay in that pre-flower stage sometimes for three months or more under a tropical 12/12, and then they start to flower, but they flower slowly, another 3-4 months... many will just produce thin compact buds in the best of cases, and airy ones means lower weight but not necessarily lower quality.

i've never tried kalimist, but i would not give up on her, just have patience.

but if another 30 days go by and you still see no flower production starting, maybe it is one of those plants that will not flower ever for some unknown reason.

good luck!

much peace

 

[pinecone]

Quoted from the Ultimate Sativa Grow Thread

NUTRIENT SECRETS AND FLUSHING. A FORGOTTEN KEY PART TO SATIVA FLOWER TIMES
This is something I don't hear very often and is pretty important. The amount of nutes you feed your sativa is also going to effect how long it flowers to a pretty dramatic amount in some cases. This is another place people try to grow sativas like indicas. With a hybrid plant as we all know those last 3 weeks or so is when all the real weight is put on. And you don't wanna skimp on ferts at this time. If the plant runs out of N its not going to produce as big of buds as it could've. So people usually feed up until about a week or a lil longer then they quit feeding. Which is what you should do for most plants.

But sativas aren't most plants. The reason those hybrid buds get so big and resinous those last few weeks is they think winter is coming. They are secreting resin trying to catch pollen, and desperately trying to produce enough energy in the buds to take care of seeds before a frost ends their life over night. Since there are no seeds they produce bigger buds.

But alot of sativas are from places there is no real winter to speak of. Some places near the equator plants live for years. Most have no genetic background to be prepared for the concept of finishing for a frost. What determines finishing time for tropical sativas is nutrients. When they are in the wild there is no frost that forces them to try to make seeds. But if they run out of nutes they will die and so will their seeds. So when they start feeling nutrients running out in the ecosystem full of other nutrient thieves they know they need to put all energy into bud production for seeds and not growing more stem and leaves.

By keeping feeding your sativa N as fan leaves die during flower you are accidentally telling your plant that their ecosystem is thriving and they should compete to outgrow other canopy. Stem and leaves in other words which also extends the plants flower time dramatically. New growers often accidentally flower plants for nine months and stuff confused why new growth keeps coming out. Wondering when its going to end.

 

[PazVerdeRadical]

pinecone, that is a good post by motaco for sure, but I think he jumps the gun too early in saying all sativas will react like that... a lot of colombian sativas will finish flowering without problem even if you feed them continuously. I have grown tons in the same climate/latitude as colombia, so I know for sure this is so.

after hundreds of seeds popped out of pressed bud brought here directly from colombia, you can have many radically different phenotypes of the same seeds collected from the same brick.

some will grow short, fat and smell tons, flower fast too.

others will be more like a normal sativa, takes about 6 months from seed to harvest here in the tropics outdoors.

then you have the ones that take way too long... I left some of them in pots and never fed them again to see what would happen... months went by and nothing happened, they just yellowed up due to lack of nutrients in the soil in the pots. they sexed, kept on vegging and eventually stunted, ate up soil nutrients and yellowed up.

others will indeed finish after 4-6 months of flowering, even if you feed them continuously.

there is a lot we still have to learn about these plants, not all has been said and done imo...

Paz.