clonedoctor420@
Member
which one do y'all think will preform best in veg & flower? can i do a poll here?
which one do y'all think will preform best in veg & flower? can i do a poll here?
Great thread, have read through in the past, and just caught up on the last couple of months work. Can't offer any input, scientific or otherwise, other than encouragement that you guys are doing sterling work for the community. I'm sure in a year or two we'll be reaping the rewards of your dedication!
Jay_Druthers
Member
Here is a interesting paper on PLANT PHOTOSENSOR PIGMENT
PHYTOCHROME Looks like it might explain the newer led systems.
380nm
470nm
590nm
615nm
636nm
660nm
700nm
Now if only you could get 1 watt 350ma led's with 40-50% efficiency in those wavelengths and same form factor and about 200 of them.
380 590 seem to be most beneficial to bacteria. ie bacteriochlorophyll
PHYTOCHROME Looks like it might explain the newer led systems.
380nm
470nm
590nm
615nm
636nm
660nm
700nm
Now if only you could get 1 watt 350ma led's with 40-50% efficiency in those wavelengths and same form factor and about 200 of them.
380 590 seem to be most beneficial to bacteria. ie bacteriochlorophyll
VladTheInhaler
Member
Hmm, interesting stuff there, Jay.
The UFO that I ordered uses 460, 630 and 615 nm LEDs
Now, it makes me wonder if I should have ordered reds to be arranged so they would be 50% 630nm and 50% 660nm.
The UFO that I ordered uses 460, 630 and 615 nm LEDs
Now, it makes me wonder if I should have ordered reds to be arranged so they would be 50% 630nm and 50% 660nm.
Jay_Druthers
Member
the one i built last year has 112 5:1:1 640 590 470 and seems to work good. at 3 weeks from seed ghs trainwreck had 6 inter nodes and about 8" tall
Architechno
Member
Just sharing:
http://www.instructables.com/id/LEDs-for-Beginners/
A great starting place if it's been a while since you studied Electro Magnetism in school.
I was going to ask in here "where can we learn how to wire our own LED's?" and then I realized I was on the internet lol
http://www.instructables.com/id/LEDs-for-Beginners/
A great starting place if it's been a while since you studied Electro Magnetism in school.
I was going to ask in here "where can we learn how to wire our own LED's?" and then I realized I was on the internet lol
billyjojimbob11
Member
DR BUDGREENGENES STYLE INDEED!
Why grow any other way? I've tried them all.
My setup is a 3x3 space
1 procyon
1 12 watt amber edison opto spot light shining mostly on the plants in their 4-9 week.
I will be adding some organic form of Co2 in the coming days.
U
unthing
Hi billyjimbob
Very nice efficiency there, any plans for further experiments? With bandwiths I mean.
Very nice efficiency there, any plans for further experiments? With bandwiths I mean.
knna
Member
Gorgeous plants, billyjojimbob! Very nice to fit 20 plants under a 112W array (what surface area?)
Results Im seeing with top end LED suggest that 2 g/W is doable with them, as your grow confirms. We just need to tune the spectrum a little more, but with the perfomance we are currently getting, for micro grows LED lighting is surely the most profitable way right now, with yields ranging from 1.1 to 1.8g/W for optimized grows.
Sogging is ideal for low height grows or those growers that dont like to use side lighting. Is ther eany difference between Dr BG style of SOG than typical SOG? Apart of using CFLs, I mean.
Results Im seeing with top end LED suggest that 2 g/W is doable with them, as your grow confirms. We just need to tune the spectrum a little more, but with the perfomance we are currently getting, for micro grows LED lighting is surely the most profitable way right now, with yields ranging from 1.1 to 1.8g/W for optimized grows.
Sogging is ideal for low height grows or those growers that dont like to use side lighting. Is ther eany difference between Dr BG style of SOG than typical SOG? Apart of using CFLs, I mean.
DonkeyPunch
Member
I don't think so, other than maybe the soda bottle thing for pots.
billyjojimbob11
Member
The last plants I cloned are very low leaf ratio, I look for strains with short branches, not branches that stick out too far and take up too much horizontal space, I think I could even get 25-30 under this area 32in x 32in. But im too lazy...
The system is perpetual. I root the clones for 2 weeks under the dome lid of the starbucks container inside a 35watt plastic storage box with the pcb and homeade aluminum strip with mylar wrapping paper on the sides. The mother plants are also in this box, I can usually root 8 at a time. Or 4 every week.
The soil is 60% Fox farm Ocean Forest, 40% perlite, and it's grown in a venti starbucks cup. The fert is 1 tbs fish emulsion/gallon of water for the first 2 weeks, then only clean tap water till the end. Im sure most fert schedules will do fine but with a good strain, and good fert, you will only need 2-3 weeks of feeding before 6-7 week flush from my experience.
with tape over the hole in the top by dipping the cutting in root hormone, and then dropping the clone into a hole in the wet fish fert soil. I am rooting under 60% blue, 40%red 24/24 for 2 weeks.
For the 12/12 budding area, I have a white plastic hot water heater drain pan for the bottom and for the sides I use 2 mylar car windshield shades all the way around the sides. The procyon is 12inches above the tallest plant.
The 12 watt edison opto 590nm amber spotlight 60deg lense, shines mostly on plants that are in week 5-10. Or the last 6 rows. I found that the amber most benifits this age range.
I think the difference is there is no veg period (12/12 from root), no clone transplanting (you root in final medium) with Dr BG, and fert is easy to obtain.
I would like to add 5-10 watt led for the first 2 weeks of flower to get flowers to show soon. Maybe i could use pure white or even amber for this?
billyjojimbob11
Member
Here is the final product...This is just one clone cut in 3 sections,not yet cured, about 10gr, and as you can see, it is of the highest quality.
Now you can see why it is hilarious to hear someone say that leds dont work.
I think i will try a organic yeast CO2 in a bottle and see if we can increase yield even more.
Now you can see why it is hilarious to hear someone say that leds dont work.
I think i will try a organic yeast CO2 in a bottle and see if we can increase yield even more.
knna
Member
Very nice perpetual, billyjojimbob. All is very well thought. Its a good model for small space growers.
In interested on your concept of sharing the same space for veg and bloom. Using an opaque box to have the mother and rooting clones is a great idea. But I notice the squares you did for the PCB of the veg area arnt exact, I see the blue light coming out. Have you notice any light pollution on the flower area? Im sure that blue light 24h on dont help plants to enter the flowering phase. I would try to make that box as more light proof as possible.
I see the LEDs of the veg box are Cree. At what current are you running them? Are they XR-C, or 4550? Running them at anything over 250mA on a PCB is the best way to have a very reduced life of those LEDs. FR have a very low heat transfer.
32*32" is the size of the full cab, including the area of the veg box, or just the blooming area?
I like the design of the amber spot, with so many tight fins. Sure adding another, or a white one, for the plants starting flower will help, at least as much as reducing the light's leaks from the veg box.
Ive done some constructive criticism, but I really like your cab design very much. And I imagine that with those 112W an the little more for the veg box, heat is anything but a problem in there.
In interested on your concept of sharing the same space for veg and bloom. Using an opaque box to have the mother and rooting clones is a great idea. But I notice the squares you did for the PCB of the veg area arnt exact, I see the blue light coming out. Have you notice any light pollution on the flower area? Im sure that blue light 24h on dont help plants to enter the flowering phase. I would try to make that box as more light proof as possible.
I see the LEDs of the veg box are Cree. At what current are you running them? Are they XR-C, or 4550? Running them at anything over 250mA on a PCB is the best way to have a very reduced life of those LEDs. FR have a very low heat transfer.
32*32" is the size of the full cab, including the area of the veg box, or just the blooming area?
I like the design of the amber spot, with so many tight fins. Sure adding another, or a white one, for the plants starting flower will help, at least as much as reducing the light's leaks from the veg box.
Ive done some constructive criticism, but I really like your cab design very much. And I imagine that with those 112W an the little more for the veg box, heat is anything but a problem in there.
A bush inna hand is worth 12 inna sand.
A bush inna hand is worth 12 inna sand.
LEDS don't work! Period!
What ya got dere is a hullabalucination.
Good work, brah!
Weeze
A bush inna hand is worth 12 inna sand.
Here is the final product...This is just one clone cut in 3 sections,not yet cured, about 10gr, and as you can see, it is of the highest quality.
Now you can see why it is hilarious to hear someone say that leds dont work.
I think i will try a organic yeast CO2 in a bottle and see if we can increase yield even more.
LEDS don't work! Period!
What ya got dere is a hullabalucination.
Good work, brah!
Weeze
VladTheInhaler
Member
billyjojimbob, it's great to see that perpetual SOG works with LED (especially as I start to experiment with them, hehe).
I'm impressed with the way you seem to achieve the perfect budsicle. I currently have a perpetual SOG under 150w hps but my plants don't look half as good as yours. ( feel wellcome to see my AK48 grow album).
I'm impressed with the way you seem to achieve the perfect budsicle. I currently have a perpetual SOG under 150w hps but my plants don't look half as good as yours. ( feel wellcome to see my AK48 grow album).
billyjojimbob11
Member
Knna,
Thank you for your critical thinking indeed. I will work on the light leak to see if I can improve flower time and response, I never thought it would make much difference, but it will be interesting to find out.
I have 2 10watt pcbs @ around 500ma XR-C The 5 blue on an aluminum strip consisting of 3 royal blue and 2 regular blue XR-E cree star chips.
keeping them @ 300-350ma max will even improve efficiency even more. If I had more time and money to upgrade... I would use the golden dragon or the Opteks @ 300ma. I would build a very similar setup as they have on ledgrow.eu as far as the 45deg side panels. I would cut down on the white a bit more than hans has however, and I would use 60deg lenses.
5% white
10% blue
15% amber 590nm
20% orange-red 610nm
50% red 630nm
From my experience, I think 660nm causes more stretching, so I would not be using it.
Thank you for your critical thinking indeed. I will work on the light leak to see if I can improve flower time and response, I never thought it would make much difference, but it will be interesting to find out.
I have 2 10watt pcbs @ around 500ma XR-C The 5 blue on an aluminum strip consisting of 3 royal blue and 2 regular blue XR-E cree star chips.
keeping them @ 300-350ma max will even improve efficiency even more. If I had more time and money to upgrade... I would use the golden dragon or the Opteks @ 300ma. I would build a very similar setup as they have on ledgrow.eu as far as the 45deg side panels. I would cut down on the white a bit more than hans has however, and I would use 60deg lenses.
5% white
10% blue
15% amber 590nm
20% orange-red 610nm
50% red 630nm
From my experience, I think 660nm causes more stretching, so I would not be using it.
billyjojimbob11
Member
Thanks, but I am only a student of DR BGG, only to bring his technique into the 21st century with leds.
billyjojimbob11
Member
LEDS don't work! Period!
What ya got dere is a hullabalucination.
Good work, brah!
Weeze
Thanks Brah!
Oldmac
Member
Not just any orange but "sunburst orange" and think about "5-band tri-spectrum"; do you really think any site that has that much marketing hype going really produces anything decent? It's chinese crap diodes (abt 1 watt each?) for pete's sake, how are they going to compare to a Procyon that uses american made Cree's?
Plus that crap site has PAID shill's extolling thier virtues (they'll give you a discount if you post how great they are).
Save up your money for a Procyon or better still a TI Pro-Bloom.
