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New Experimental Organic Hydro Technique!

S

SwitchAvenger

Yeah good going SS!
And towards the overflows...

If you can remember DM's picture that he had in the beginning of the thread (which is now gone thanks to photobucked) he had a swan neck to combat this. It's the same set up on your sink or throne, the neck keep sewer gases from coming back up the drains and leaving an unpleasant oder wafting through your house. You idea kind of works on the same concept except what are you going to do once your rez level drops down under that four inch mark? That is where the swans neck would really help you out because water would constantly remain in that area unless you were purging / refilling your tub. plus you wouldn't need the extra length running vertical. If you hurt'n for space sticking out you could always put a 90 degree elbow and run it next to your tub.
Giving you food for thought

He did say it was unnecessary though, but i don't know why seeing that loosing air that way would be a disadvantage i guess.
 
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SilverSurfer_OG

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
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Thanks folks yeah they are lookin real good. Easily the best buds i have got going indoors so far :D

They have been on 12/12 for about 4 weeks and showing pistils for say 3.
 
rrog

rrog

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SwitchAvenger said:
And towards the overflows...

If you can remember DM's picture that he had in the beginning of the thread (which is now gone thanks to photobucked) he had a swan neck to combat this.

I remember. My little twist is to simply swing the swan neck up so that it goes up and over, allowing the opening inside the bucket to stay submerged.


You idea kind of works on the same concept except what are you going to do once your rez level drops down under that four inch mark?

What is there to do? Drop it down to 2" was my point. I guess I don't feel the trap that DM presented would hold back air you want left in the tank. You're thinking it would. I guess DM felt it would.


That is where the swans neck would really help you out because water would constantly remain in that area unless you were purging / refilling your tub. plus you wouldn't need the extra length running vertical.

He did say it was unnecessary though, but i don't know why seeing that loosing air that way would be a disadvantage i guess.
Click to expand...

Its a matter of which would hold the air in best.

Regarding DM/s very rapid departure, rolling up the carpet and all. All I can say is it sucks he was so spooked. Anonymity compromised and he's clearly cautious.

edit:

I have agonized over the holes in the bucket and the potential for leaks.

You could do the whole bucket with 1 hole in it. Have the hole in the bottom (side) of the pail, as we do for the drain plug currently. Instead of a drain and cork, install a Tee fitting, with a cork in the end of the Tee so it doesn't drain. Coming up from the Tee is the clear tubing that is the level indicator. On the top of the clear level indicator tube is the curve I pictured which becomes your overflow. So there will always be water in the tube = no air flowing through.

When the cork is in, water fills up the clear tube. When the cork is gone, the pail drains completely.

The airline(s) simply go down the side of the pail from the top. No holes for airlines.

This whole thing requires only 1 hole in the pail, accommodates a drain, accommodates the clear water level tube and also an overflow. Where's the flaw in my logic? I'm thinking the weakness would be the length of that Tee sticking out and torquing the pail seal.
 
S

SwitchAvenger

I spent some time pondering that idea as well. My biggest bitch right now to figure out is where to stick the hole, I can't stick it directly on the bottom since my space is confined. I'm not too impressed on that entire swan neck idea my self personally, i know it would work, have you ever smelled sewer gas coming out of your drain?

Anyway though my idea is pretty similer too the clear tube T thing, but i was going to get a little valve for the bottom and use a hood that was turned up side down, air is going to try to travel the path of least resistance, so it wouldn't go up and go down and then back up through the water level tube. Think of a 1/2 inch PVC cap with 1/3 of the top removed and then stuck to the T with the open end facing upward. When draining though it would leave a little over a half inch in the bottom depending how low you could get the hood.

If this doesn't make since i'll try to drawl something up on paint.
 
rrog

rrog

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... we need the Paint... It does sound similar. We should refine this and run. I have about 5 different fillings coming. I'm going to pick the most leak-proof bulkhead fitting and post results. I'd be glad to post installation pics of whatever we come up with.
 
S

SwitchAvenger

OK So here you go



The idea of this is to impend the flow of air. The Catch thing wouldn't allow for anything to enter but it's one top entry point.

The other picture that kind of looks like a really skinny teapot or something is the idea i had for mine. I was going to put a a 180 degree elbow at the top of the vinyl sight hose and then connect it back down with the same thing too the one exit path this would keep a tight profile next to the tubs.

Also if you were not going to put holes in the cap of the air catch water would just chill right there until the water in the tubs dried out completely.
 
rrog

rrog

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Do you think this might be fragile? That's my concern about any fitting sticking out too far. You're going to secure all of it to the pail.

Does this extend below the bottom of the pail, then? Like you would have to raise the pails to do what you describe?

The teapot goes all the way down to better catch the overflow, then?
 
S

SwitchAvenger

I still have some logistics to work out. But yes it will extend below the bottom, my tubs will be slightly raised because of how my set up will work out, I'm cramming two 4 gallon tubs into an 18 gallon sterilite tub. The tubs will be raised up by the intake (don't worry your self on the intake yet, i haven't totally figured out how I'm making that, but the idea is to have air coming from the very bottom around the perimeter). most of the teapot will be outside of the grow tub so yes it will be fixed to the sterilite tube. There is also another idea I'm thinking of, but might be more complex then necessary. But it will be compact then the teapot.

If you weren't worried about an overflow you could just do the airtrap, sight tube, and then something to hold the sight tube up and put a little breather on the top of it. If you wanted to drain your rez or purge you could just take the top off and bend the hose down. The top breather would be to slow down the flow of water so a little bit of air has to escape in order to fill the sight tube, this would put a little bit of water resistance and keep air from the bubblers from making their way out. I have also thought about going this way as well, just mark the sight tube with the max water line and just slowly fill them up to the line. This wouldn't be so bad for me since I'm dealing with small buckets.
 
rrog

rrog

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Very cool switch. I'm going to play around with the many parts I have arriving. See what works for my setup. Then we can compare notes.
 
rrog

rrog

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... sound of crickets...

:drum: :abduct:


Are there any other grow logs with OBBT other than LLs?

I just build a mock-up bucket with overflow, drain and sight gauge. Combo of bulkhead fittings and Uniseals. Looks good. Now to throw water in there for a couple days and see what leaks.
 
D

DrunkenMessiah

Member
Hey there everyone. I see some questions floating about but it looks like they've mostly been taken care of. I have a little spare time over the next couple of days so if anybody has questions that didn't get answered go ahead and re-post them and I'll get to them imminently.

I see a lot of threads with "OBBT" in the title near the top of the organic hydro board. Wonderful! The speed at which this technique has been picked up and assimilated into the community here just boggles my mind. You guys are the shit!

I want to take a moment to personally thank everyone who was in here during the early days:

pray4pistils, plumbum, solarpowered_ca, Mt_Toaker, dR. HerbLove, Silver_Surfer_OG, GreenThumbBumb, RipVanWeed You guys are what got this thing up off the ground in the first place! Without all of you there wouldn't have been enough questions to generate all the discussion that everyone has learned so much from. You where the early flakes that got this snowball rolling up! If this thread hadn't picked up a little early traffic that resulted from your interest I may well have given up and the OBBTs for cannabis use could have been lost to obscurity.

Not that I don't appreciate the shit out of you cats who have jumped on board once things started moving. You guys are gonna be what keeps this method growing here on ICmag. I have massive confidence in this community, I expect some truly extraordinary results to come from the marriage of your hard work and a couple of my harebrained ideas.

I love lurking around on here now, but Lady Largely was right: It is a little painful to watch, especially her thread. I am very comfortable and happy with my decision to give up cannabis cultivation, but I still can't help but feel a little twinge of regret when I see the OBBTs working here on the forums. I'm not sure I'll have the strength to watch Lady L fill up her screen, I forgot how much I love that shit.

Still, I will continue to lurk about. Even if I don't log in to say anything, don't think that I'm not watching over you guys. Keep the questions coming, the work going and the knowledge flowing. I love you crazy bastards!

Good luck to all and happy gardening!

-DM
 
rrog

rrog

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DM, it's a real treat to hear from you again. I hope you won't stay so distant.

I have a couple of questions if that's OK. Sort of a mish-mash of odd questions:

I have Fat Flower 0-50-30 instead of Bloom Burst (10-52-10). You suppose that would work, or should I go for the Bloom Burst?

Would there be any benefit to using a single layer of quality landscape fabric on top of the medium rather than the 1" of Perlite? I think they may perform similarly and if I have 1" less Perlite, I can have 1" more medium and maybe keep loose Perlite at bay.

Any recommended dilution of Fish Emulsion as a veg tea?

Thanks a lot. Thanks again for stopping in.
 
S

solarpowered_ca

Member
hey there DM nice to hear you are still there.alive and well. Thanks for all your inspiration and guidance. My obbts are cruising along nicely following your irriginal descriptions. great to know we may fire a few questions that you may answer from time to time . Thanks again.

Regarding flushing and fasting. Do you suggest waiting till week 4 or so of 12/12 to commence this practice or doesnt it really matter. Also you initially suggested alternating with one week of feed and one of water / flush / fast . I notice large lady suggested 2 weeks of feeding and one of flush/fast. does it matter either way . Also do you recon 5 days is about right for the fresh water before draining and fasting for 48 hrs each flush and fast .
At the end of the final flush due to room size can the plant be moved out of direct lights and sit for a week drying ( i dont have another room with suitable carbon filtering) Would I cover this over so that It sits in darkness . any thoughts here please. I wish to run a perpectual grow introducing 2 plants every 3 weeks. So every 3 weeks I can remove 2 plants and dry them and then regenerate soil once plants are cut so as to reintroduce them in the next 3 week cycle. thank you.
 
rrog

rrog

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Man, oh man. I hope my grow is 1/2 as good as that. What's the time remaining before the chop?

What a great job and I'm digging your pencil drawings!
 
norcalsmoker

norcalsmoker

Member
great thread I so need to setup 1 . doing dwc I have all the equipment and never even thought about combining the 2 systems :yoinks:
 
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