220w pl-l coco scrog cupboard

[ScrubNinja]

great, here is another one for ya then

I'm running some preliminary heat tests just to get a loose idea of what I'm up against.

For these tests all 4 exhaust fans are running, same speed. The lid is on the carbon filter but not sealed (losing efficiency). There is no carbon in the filter. Everything is as I originally built it, mostly via guesstimation. The remote temp sensor is exactly 8 inches away from the bulbs, and I have a rather weak 90mm fan on the bulbs (say around 25 or 30 cfm) which helps a LOT. Ambient room temp is around 70 F. The side fluoro is still not turned on. There is no foam over the intakes yet.

At 7.5 volts it topped out at 86.3 F

Switched the exhaust to 9 volts and it's lowered to 83.8. Overall, pretty happy with how it's developing. The bulbs are kept much cooler even by that one tiny fan. The plastic bases are barely warm at all. Kind of skin/ambient temp. The bulbs are only slightly warm.



I almost finished the weatherstripping on the doors as you can see but in typical scrub fashion I miscalculated, haha, so I was a handful of inches short. Got more in storage.

I'm incredibly happy with it! It seems 99.999% lightproof except it takes too much pressure to compress the open cell foam so the doors don't "suck" shut and light leaks out. I plan on getting some kind of door magnets at the hardware shop. Feel free to drop any knowledge on these as I know nothing.

 

[Tleom]

Good job man.

I have read your thread twice. I like the way you go int so mutch detail.

I can't wait to see it running.

 

[ScrubNinja]

Haha yeah I must have aspergers or whichever that thing is that makes you go into a lot of detail. Another thing I have now is confusion. I ran it on 6v just to see, and it levelled out at 87.2. So then I raised the temp sensor to 4cm away from the bulb, still at 6v, but the temp DROPPED?! It's at 85.6 now and probably dropping more.

I've heard how direct light on the temp unit can cause haywire readings so maybe that's it? Except if that's the case, how DO I test it accurately? What if I just flip the remote sensor over so it's facing down? Any other suggestions or should I just trust the readings I'm seeing?

Edit: On second thoughts, there's a lot of airflow up close to the bulbs so maybe it's not so strange that it dropped. I've flipped over the sensor anyway.

 

[smokinshogun]

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[ScrubNinja]

Yeah thanks shogun, I'll do that too

 

[ScrubNinja]

Sorry, yes, it's a remote sensor about the size of a small tv remote, white in colour.

 

[ScrubNinja]

To be exact here, it looks like this.

I have the face of the sensor facing down now, and I have a folded a4 resting on top of that. The temp has now dropped radically to 79.1 so far! So if this is an accurate reading I'm very happy.

 

[smokinshogun]

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[ScrubNinja]

Nice one shogun that sounds pretty wikkid. I remember about a year ago there were a few people actually DIY remoting the CFL ballasts - pulling the ballasts away from the bulbs. I was thinking about that but I decided it would be better to do a design essentially like you've planned. Never got around to actually doing it though. Best 'o luck.

These temps are fantastic. Unfortunately I have to pull the pin to get some shut-eye. Peace.

 

[growMEDS]

Looking amazing scrub! cant wait to see some green in there!

 

[GreenScreen]

Been looking into these lights, I'm excited to see a finished product! And some sweet plants rockin in it! very clean looking too. Good job!

 

[ScrubNinja]

Thanks guys! I'm extremely happy with temps (still doing heat runs atm) so I'm pretty close to launch, except now I have to get all this organic shit and work out how to do that. (OBBTs) It's very intimidating to say the least but I'm hoping to go shopping tomorrow.

I'd better get some clones organised I guess!

Here is how I've set up the fans for the lights. Each fan is 30cfm, and 0.13 amps. It does an extremely good job except it takes up a lot of space. Since no-one was forthcoming with fluoro assistance I'm thinking of locating the fans under the spare fluoro bay at the back, angled to mostly blow the required direction. Any ideas? It's really hard to come up with an efficient workable solution.



Also, is the fluoro too low you think? :/

 

[AP KUSH]

Scrubninja... the amount of preparation, calculation, and innovation that you have presented to us all on these pages makes you worthy of K+

Your whole system seems to be running very well indeed, i cant wait to see what kind of bud it is capable of producing

 

[ScrubNinja]

Ah shucks, thanks man! I leave nothing to the imagination because it's really so hard for people who've never done it. I hope it helps a lot of people see what results I get from different equipment and then use that to work out what they need for their own plans. Also it's nice to have for my own records instead of being scrawled on the back of a nail packet or something.

At some stage I'd like to make a post with some links to online calculators and some common equations and whatnot, that helped me immeasurably. I actually googled all the main fans available and made up a spreadsheet of all their specs to help me decide and so far pretty happy with the selections.

For those who may have missed my Toking Tent thread, a lot of the initial ideas for this cab kick into place around page 5 of that.

Well, here are some temps. I blocked off 4 of the 6 intakes which, if my calculations were right, gives it equal sized exhaust:intake ratio. This is just to simulate a carbon filter. It's not exact. Distance from bulbs is 4cm again.

• At 9v it topped out at 80.4 (ambient - 72.5) (7.9 diff)
• At 7.5 it topped out at 81.6 (ambient - 72.3) (9.3 diff)
• At 6v it topped out at 83.3 (ambient - 72.1) (11.2 diff)

Seems respectable readings, what do you guys think? I threw a blanket over the filter and it's quite quiet so with the insulation Irie mentioned, and blankets, and of course carbon, I dare say I could use 12v and remain inside stealth limits. We'll see how it goes! Thanks for readin'.

 

[#1cheesebuds]

looking super great.

 

[cork144]

gonnas be great.

 

[ScrubNinja]

Thanks dudes! Well, I went shopping today. They actually had the Dynamat product in store but it was kind of over budget and I would've had to buy more than I need. I ended up getting rubber backed carpet squares as seen here. (that's all I've done so far).



The door magnets were very straightforward. I bought two magnets for each door (top and bottom) but quickly realised one would be enough on each door. In fact they're awesome! Totally solved the problem. A1.



They seem to be rated in "pull strength", so I got the highest they had which was 6kg. You close the doors, feel the foam w/strip compress, then *click* it locks. Several times now I've shaken my head that I could construct something with such elegance, same feeling as when I made the slider rails. Anyway, I was also looking at those magnetic key hidden locks. Came close to rolling with those.

The weather stripping is 100% lightproof all the way round, except for the bit where the two doors meet because the gap is bigger.



I put weatherstripping on both edges and it still leaks a small amount so I guess I'll buy thicker, or closed cell w'stripping. Overall I couldn't be happier with how the lightproofing has gone.

 

[AP KUSH]

Hey man, good to see an update. I actually used those exact same magnets for my cab... they work great!

Like i said earlier, im very impressed with your project... it seems to get better everytime i check in. Keep it up scrub

 

[Aerohead]

Your cab is looking sick!!, can't wait to see what you can do with all that room!!

 

[irie4i]

Scrubninja, simply attach a thin peice of lightproof material(cardboard would work, painted if nessecary) and have it cover the area of gap inside of the cab. Just make sure to always close the door with the longer peice on the back of it first. Perhaps I'm having dificulty explaining exactly what I mean, but I think you'll probably understand(Making one door longer than the other, yaknow)