Powdery Mildew Rx for flowering plants?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
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question how strong of a sulfur smell do the sulfur vapes produce?? Does it effect the taste of your weed if you vape until the last 2 weeks.... is that enough buffer for taste?
If use it in my garage should I do it at a time when my neighbors arent home due to smell?
charles_bronson
Member
the sulfur burner isn't that bad as long as the doors are all closed and everythings off. i burn it for 2/3 hours at a time in my walk in closet in my bedroom and chill in the room not really smelling it so ull be totally fine with ur neightbors imo. and as u get to the end of flowering, try and use the burner less and less (maybe 1 hr instead of 3) and there wont be any taste if u cut it for the last 4 or 5 days
Has anyone else tried this Organic Fungicide?? I'm testing this product on PM... it does a really good job and I've been testing a few products so far this one has the best residual protection about 10-12 days inbetween sprays.
I'm now to the point where I only have to spot spray as needed .... I bearly have any issues with PM anymore
Nitrozene....My friend swears by this stuff.....it helps build strong plant cells to help fight disease like PM.
I just bought some going to try it out on my GDP
I'm now to the point where I only have to spot spray as needed .... I bearly have any issues with PM anymore
Nitrozene....My friend swears by this stuff.....it helps build strong plant cells to help fight disease like PM.
I just bought some going to try it out on my GDP
Has anyone else tried this Organic Fungicide?? I'm testing this product on PM... it does a really good job and I've been testing a few products so far this one has the best residual protection about 10-12 days inbetween sprays.
I'm now to the point where I only have to spot spray as needed .... I bearly have any issues with PM anymore
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^^greencure
I use it all the time.
I have to look over my plants every day to keep the PM at bay.
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I used two products from Home Depot and I found the one in the green bottle (Can't remember name - might be by Safers) killed it all and it was a bad case. Only used once. Worked like a charm. The other one in the yellow bottle worked well too but stunk like hell and was too strong a mix so it browned some of the leaves and made the pistols shrivel. So if you have a HD in your area I promise you will not be disapointed in it as long as the green bottle one is used. I'll find the name and post it. Now I use it all the time when I get an outbreak.
TGT
TGT
Here's the abstract of a study on foliar feed of powdered potassium silicate to suppress expression of powdery mildew. The results seem very strong:
http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/klu/10327/2004/00000070/00000004/art00003?crawler=true
http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/klu/10327/2004/00000070/00000004/art00003?crawler=true
I did the milk/water mixture and then a h202 mix and haven't seen any issues since. Not that I won't buy an organic spray if it works BUT the around the house fixes worked for my pm issue.
Wagner Bettiol, a scientist from Brazil, found that weekly sprays of milk-water solution controlled powdery mildew in zucchini just as effectively as synthetic fungicides such as fenarimol or benomyl. Not only was milk found to be effective at controlling the disease, it also acted as a foliar fertilizer, boosting the plant's immune system. In his experiments with zucchini plants, Bettiol found that a weekly spray of milk at a concentration of at least 10% (1 part milk to 9 parts water) significantly reduced the severity of powdery mildew infection on the plants by 90%. It seems that milk is a natural germicide. In addition, it contains several naturally occurring salts and amino acids that are taken up by the plant. From previous experiments using sodium bicarbonate, potassium phosphate, and other salts, researchers have found that the disease is sensitive to these salts.
My own inclination is to try regular applications of the milk first, especially as a preventative. Once you have a problem, though, I find the zone + penetrator course of action very persuasive, especially because it addresses and neutralizes the presence of the mold cultures inside the plant, not just the spores expressed on the surface. HEPA filtration seems like a logical step as well.
R
RNDZL
anyone use zone with any other wetting agents such as sm-90
is it the ZONE that stunts the plants when they are sprayed?
or is it the PENETRATOR?
coudl the zonoe application be too high, the dont recommend more than 5 mL per 20 L
to eveyrone wh contributed and to those that might have answers to my ?
thank you very much in advance
great thread
is it the ZONE that stunts the plants when they are sprayed?
or is it the PENETRATOR?
coudl the zonoe application be too high, the dont recommend more than 5 mL per 20 L
to eveyrone wh contributed and to those that might have answers to my ?
thank you very much in advance
great thread
D
Darkstarlive
The wet spring/summer has brought PM to many that have never had it before, including Me. I have dehumidifier and 18" oscillating fans and I still got PM. The bio-Fungicide (Bacillis Subtillis) is effective as a preventive measure though it stinks for a couple days after spraying but for a eradicant I found a product call JMS Stylet Oil.
I found this article to be very helpful. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7493.html
Good luck...
I found this article to be very helpful. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7493.html
Good luck...
fyahfohigha
Member
Does anyone know about the health risks from PM being consumed? What if you are allergic to mold on other plants?
If it is only systemic, and not showing signs, does it die off if dried and cured properly?
What if there is a little in the flowers that you can't see close to harvest?
Can PM also show up what looks like a N-P-K problem (big brown spots that look like a K overdose) mixed with dead yellowing leaves on the bottom of the plant? At first it seemed like a lockout/overdose, but now it seems like the damn PM is causing it? Are these signs of it being systemic in the plant?
Is another sign white "sores" on the stem? (they look like little dried mouth sores.
White spores show up here and there (but not bad), and they usually go away with a dose of foliar. of some sort. At first just myco madness (humbolt nutes) as a spray (something in it, the bacteria or something just ate that shit right up!); alternated with neem oil to keep it at bay in veg. Now 3 weeks into flower and the first zone/penetrator as a spray was used and it seemed to work alright. Just a little scared about it getting in the flowers, and the residue left behind.
As a spray how late can you use Zone/Penetrator mix into flower without it being a problem for your health, or is it a problem? People at the stores seem to say not to use anything past 3-4 weeks on, but you guys seem pretty confident. and the mix has worked so far...so good.
What's the risk of spraying them with water after, wouldn't that create a desirable climate for PM?
What about feeding Dutch master Zone to the roots, is that a good idea to build strength/or even a systemic preventative for PM?
Also, does anyone know how late can you use Einstein Neem oil into flower?
(apologies for the scatterbrain questions, but never had this problem before, and now that it came from no where there is no thinking sane!)
The desert is only good for one thing (and only one thing), and that is never knowing about the BORG and PM! now they are reality. fuckfuckfuck.
educate, operate, MEDICATE*
If it is only systemic, and not showing signs, does it die off if dried and cured properly?
What if there is a little in the flowers that you can't see close to harvest?
Can PM also show up what looks like a N-P-K problem (big brown spots that look like a K overdose) mixed with dead yellowing leaves on the bottom of the plant? At first it seemed like a lockout/overdose, but now it seems like the damn PM is causing it? Are these signs of it being systemic in the plant?
Is another sign white "sores" on the stem? (they look like little dried mouth sores.
White spores show up here and there (but not bad), and they usually go away with a dose of foliar. of some sort. At first just myco madness (humbolt nutes) as a spray (something in it, the bacteria or something just ate that shit right up!); alternated with neem oil to keep it at bay in veg. Now 3 weeks into flower and the first zone/penetrator as a spray was used and it seemed to work alright. Just a little scared about it getting in the flowers, and the residue left behind.
As a spray how late can you use Zone/Penetrator mix into flower without it being a problem for your health, or is it a problem? People at the stores seem to say not to use anything past 3-4 weeks on, but you guys seem pretty confident. and the mix has worked so far...so good.
What's the risk of spraying them with water after, wouldn't that create a desirable climate for PM?
What about feeding Dutch master Zone to the roots, is that a good idea to build strength/or even a systemic preventative for PM?
Also, does anyone know how late can you use Einstein Neem oil into flower?
(apologies for the scatterbrain questions, but never had this problem before, and now that it came from no where there is no thinking sane!)
The desert is only good for one thing (and only one thing), and that is never knowing about the BORG and PM! now they are reality. fuckfuckfuck.
educate, operate, MEDICATE*
HIGHGROOVE
Member
yea im in a fun situation day 34 flower and pm is stacking up so waht are my options at this point...i dont ahve a sulphur burner and if ordering one i think it would be far too late....any otehr options? also hepa filters for intakes>? how does that work on a tent? air can still get in through the cracks i suppose? i dont think it helps that there are roses outside and i think those little bastards may ahve soemthing to do with it humidity is fine but it does get up to high 80s at times.........................need help fast
You can't filter all the air but you can filter most of it. Get some Green Cure (potassium bicarbonate) and spray the roses outside and also spray your plants. you can also use h2o2. Remember rinse off what you use before using something else. There are a lot of treatments in this thread that you can try.
Here is a chart for h202 use:
http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.com/gardening-with-hydrogen-peroxide.html
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fyahfohigha
Member
Dutch Master Zone with a little soap,(Penetrator instead of soap is better), and JMS stylet dunks are doing a great job at keeping any and all PM spores/mites away, however, I still think blight/fungal virus is a big problem. New growth is green, healthy and abundant, however I continue to have dead foliage wilt, dry up to a crisp, and fall off of the bottom. It isn't horrible, but it does happen. I am deciding whether to flower them out hoping it isn't a complete loss, and that PM/mites don't show back up late into flower again. Or I was thinking of chopping them all up into clone , cleaning out EVERYTHING 100% and bombing the place, doing all the preventatives you can think of in every way to prevent it from coming back (mainly Dutch Dunks, Neem Soil, JMS Stylet oil foliar, and a few others as well. I have read that people where able to keep the PM form showing up when they repeat dunks all through veg, but I am scared it wont keep any possible blight/disease away from living in my cuts the whole way through and effecting them? Any advice or experience anyone?
Lots of good info, seems the ones to try are Zone+Penetrator, Greencure, SM-90, JMS Stylet Oil, and sulfur of course.
What about those doing SOG? I for example slap about a tray of clones (72) right to 12/12 on a 4x8 table, no veg. I can see dunking them (zone or JMS)at that point being doable, but if someone has a bunch of tables that would mean dunking 100s of plants every few days lol..
JMS pdf says you need a 400 psi sprayer - anyone using handhelds? They say nothing about dunks.
Zone is a root conditioner, we're using it as a foliar/dunk?
I don't want to use sulfur but might try zone/penetrator on my moms (foliar) and start watering with some silicate. Then dunk the rooted clones when they go to 12/12 (zone again or JMS) and hit them with some greencure through flowering if I see spores.
Will post results, I have PM for the first time, very extensive. Neem isn't working. Great for thrips though lol
What about those doing SOG? I for example slap about a tray of clones (72) right to 12/12 on a 4x8 table, no veg. I can see dunking them (zone or JMS)at that point being doable, but if someone has a bunch of tables that would mean dunking 100s of plants every few days lol..
JMS pdf says you need a 400 psi sprayer - anyone using handhelds? They say nothing about dunks.
Zone is a root conditioner, we're using it as a foliar/dunk?
I don't want to use sulfur but might try zone/penetrator on my moms (foliar) and start watering with some silicate. Then dunk the rooted clones when they go to 12/12 (zone again or JMS) and hit them with some greencure through flowering if I see spores.
Will post results, I have PM for the first time, very extensive. Neem isn't working. Great for thrips though lol
