co2/flowering

[Ganjagrower1]

Ok so i took the photos right before the lights came on so every one can tell me what the hell i have going on with my ladies. I can tell you it does not have any effect of the way they are growing. They are looking dank as shit. I am glad i took the photos before the light came on it makes it a lot easier to see the nugs in the pics.

 

[Gobwats]

I'm seeing Ca [brown leaf tips, brown spots on upper leaves], Mg [small rust spots and dark to light green seen on lower leaves], & Zn [the other light to dark green seen on the upper leaves] deficiencies, probably caused by nute lockout from your pH problems earlier. I aim for a pH balance in my hydro system of 5.7-5.8, and supplement the trace minerals by giving them a weekly foliar feeding of the EJ (just a light misting, typically the night prior to my nute change out.) From the overall appearance I would say the garden appears to be healing. I would get my pH right, trim away the leaves that are beyond saving, and apply some EJ to the underside of the leaves while the lights are off. The leaves with the funky green patterns should start to turn solid green; the larger brown spots you either clip away or live with. Even when you everything perfect, something will happen (like spider mites getting in your hair from walking under the trees outside and then jumping into your garden the next time you look in on it, yep had it happen along with every other problem...makes gardening fun!)

 

[Ganjagrower1]

Thanks gobwats i think i am going to get some cal mag. do you think it will be ok to add. mind you i am using plain tap water with micro for hard water. I am also thinking about getting some hammerhead do make the nugs dense.

 

[Gobwats]

Thanks gobwats i think i am going to get some cal mag. do you think it will be ok to add. mind you i am using plain tap water with micro for hard water. I am also thinking about getting some hammerhead do make the nugs dense.

The tap water could be at the root of your pH issues, are you letting it sit before using it (I've been told to let tap water sit a minimum of 24hrs to allow most of the chlorine to evaporate out.) I use RO water and have seen similar problems when it's time to change out a filter or a membrane. If you're thinking about going to RO, look at AquaFX.net; they are out of central FL and make filters for aquariums (if you've ever attempted to grow coral in a salt water setup, you know how critical clean water can really be) and the best part is their units are some of the cheapest on the market (we just picked up a dual element for about $120 I think and it makes enough water for my garden plus the old lady's veggie setups-got her hooked on hydro but she don't smoke.) This unit outperforms the one we have in the kitchen that cost 3-4 times as much. I have a really good guide to sick plants that I found on one of the forums (either here or Rollitup.org I'm quite sure) called the complete guide to sick plants. Can't recall the original poster, but he was one of those guys who knows his stuff. I would hate to plagiarize him by reposting his write-up without knowing how to give proper credit to the true author, but can email you a copy if you cannot find it using search. It's really got some good info.

 

[Ganjagrower1]

I usually let the water bubble with air for at least two days then i add the nutes and get the ph where i want it. So i dont really have any problem with the ph once i get it going for a couple of days. but like i was saying before for some reason the ph dropped in one of the buckets. But i am getting ready as we speak to do my change out. i have added the water and the air pump until tonight. Then i will add the nutes and any additives i may have. Hope to get down to the hydro store and pick something up.

 

[moses224]

Day 38 flower "Block 1" i have a block of cheese one week behind and kush one week behind cheese plus a bunch of misc haze



Strawberry week 9

 

[Ganjagrower1]

digging the strawberry. props...... SO i am going down to discount hydro today. I am going to pick up some hammerhead of they have it.

 

[loco81]

still looking good and i have been thinking about ro water as well but couldnt make it cost effective yet but soon that and co2!!!

 

[Ganjagrower1]

I have to say i have seen a big difference with co2 as oppose to not having it. I would recommended co2 to any one. especially when you are using a sealed grow.

 

[moses224]

!Yes sir just make sure your watching your levels. lol if tank drains in 4 days you have problem.....As i learned this grow due to regulator with leak it will burn the shit out of fan leaves...but aside from this isolated incidence i have never had problems and get 25-30% more weight

 

[Ganjagrower1]

I think the co2 is lasting me about 2 weeks. I have a cap regulator and i have the flow set to like 0.4 not very high. I bought a used regulator so i dont know if i ended up buying something that leaks. can any one tell me if they get condensation on there regulator some times or is that an indication that it leaks.

 

[Ganjagrower1]

getting ready for my last water change out before i do a flush. They are looking dank as shit. I am going to add some kool bloom powder as well. right along with overdrive.

 

[moses224]

if its lasting 2 weeks your good....thats what my old one did...this one i didnt find out till it was to late so iv replaced and am on day 5 still more then half full

 

[Gobwats]

I think the co2 is lasting me about 2 weeks. I have a cap regulator and i have the flow set to like 0.4 not very high. I bought a used regulator so i dont know if i ended up buying something that leaks. can any one tell me if they get condensation on there regulator some times or is that an indication that it leaks.

You can use your flow rate and time on to determine how long a cylinder should last you (somewhere around here is a chart that tells you how much CO2 a full cylinder of each size will hold.) The condensation suggests to me that your regulator is set to high, it should be set around 30psi. As gas flows through restricted spaces, the more pressure pushing it the more adiabatic heating you see (why smart people open O2 cylinders very slowly); from thermodynamics we know that heat builds by absorbing heat from its immediate surroundings, which is why when you open that valve wide open with no regulator to control the flow you will see the valve actually freeze up (happens with any gas under pressure, the adiabatic heating of the gas is pulling that much heat out of the metal.) If you are seeing condensation, to me that suggests thawing which suggests freezing which suggests too high of a flow which suggests a faulty regulator or a regulator that simply needs to be adjusted. You should sit through one of my non-linear dynamics classes when I'm stoned if you really want to see me go deep, lol. Hope this helps. You should have a screw with a locking nut to adjust the reg with.

 

[moses224]

day 42ish

 

[Ganjagrower1]

right on moses i am right about where you are in flower. i will post some new pics later this week. just about ready to do my water change out. my water is just about ph.d where i want it.

 

[moses224]

SO YOU do change not just top off...iv read it both ways and iv always changed.....so when i get my 2 4x8 setup illl change as well

 

[Ganjagrower1]

I have tried it both ways now. I have done the add back in last grow and i think it would of been better to do the change out every week. I dont want to get nute lock out.

 

[moses224]

yea i guess its a matter of preference dongle swears she just tops off and as you know her shit is sick....i mean as long as water / nutes are moving and aerated then its the same as it being in the bottle just diluted........just my 2 cents

 

[Ganjagrower1]

i am not sure when i did just the add back into my buckets it raised the ppms to almost 2500 when i didnt change out the water. i just mixed nutes with the water and adding in. I am not sure what was going on with the ppms but they were that high. but i did not have any tip burns on any of the leaves.