8 cfl light production question

[stickyickyicky]

On one side of my cab i am running 8 cfls.
Both are the (150)watt 2600k

(4)x 42 watts
(4)x 40 watts (cant find the other 42 watters anymore)

My question is when adding these light wattages together does the output replicate (if they made it) a 328 hps?

i am building a cab out of a new dresser to be stealth ( more pics to come later )

Thanks Sticky

 

[stickyickyicky]

i guess then i am too dumb and the answer is obvious..

 

[Bozo]

no

 

[Maj.PotHead]

the wattage would equal but not replicate a 328w hps if they made 1, honestly a 250w hps in your cab would look like the sun compared to the cfl's. for some cheap good as mylar reflective material local sporting good store has emergancy cold weather blankets. cost approx 6$ 1 would line the whole inside of your dresser cab

 

[magiccannabus]

It's all about how you use it. Find the strengths of your system and dial it in, and your results will reflect that.

 

[stickyickyicky]

Thanks fellas.

How much better is the Mylar over the whitepaint? i went with the cfls because its what ive used before. I am trying the prenup harvest style like Dr.bud.

Magic - i like that quote!

 

[stink.whistler]

Paint is easier to clean, stuff gets behind your mylar and it really isn't all that much more reflective (especially once it has gotten dirty).

Use flat white paint, IMO

 

[medmaker420]

I hated using mylar, use white paint or get that reflectix or whatever it is that is supposed to be the shit.

 

[chillywater420]

Thanks fellas.

How much better is the Mylar over the whitepaint? i went with the cfls because its what ive used before. I am trying the prenup harvest style like Dr.bud.

Magic - i like that quote!

i had a grow with lights similiar like that and worked fine.good luck

 

[Hydro-Soil]

Paint is easier to clean, stuff gets behind your mylar and it really isn't all that much more reflective (especially once it has gotten dirty).

Use flat white paint, IMO

I'll second the flat white paint. A $20 gallon will last you a long time. Takes only a few minutes to slap a new coat of paint between runs if you get it that dirty.

 

[panopticist]

Compairing HPS and CFLs is like comparing apples and oranges...

HPS has a penetration that CFLs can't match. However, CFLs do run much cooler and are handy for microgrows/vegging. As long as the plants aren't very tall and are situated directly underneath (within an inch or so) the bulbs, they'll do fine. As you can see in the pics below, mine are way too far away to get the maximum amount of light. Beginner mistake...

But to answer your question, no. If equal wattage CFL and HPS setups were running side by side, the HPS would dominate, hands down. 328w is simply a measure of the amount of energy you are using. Not the intensity of the light being produced.

Nice lil' cab by the way. Reminds me of the Panopticab, a little project I did a year or so ago for my first grow...

I eventually upgraded it to a 150w HPS, but the thing was way too hot...

I got nice looking buds out of the thing, but they were underweight and airy, even with the HPS. Micro is a nice way to learn the ropes of growing, but I had to move on when my harvests didn't exceed my rate of consumption. Hopefully DBG's perpetual harvest method will work out for you...

 

[Hydro-Soil]

I NEED TO KEEP MY MED SUPPLY STEADY!
(I'm running on leaf right now and I've munged at least 2 posts in 2 different threads now)

Compairing HPS and CFLs is like comparing apples and oranges...

HPS has a penetration that CFLs can't match. However, CFLs do run much cooler and are handy for microgrows/vegging. As long as the plants aren't very tall and are situated directly underneath (within an inch or so) the bulbs, they'll do fine.

Micro grows. Keep in mind that this is the topic here. CFLS for micro grows. (what an idiot I am for posting this in this thread)

I've run 150w HPS in micro grows and compared to 3 55w PL-L's they suck. A 150w HPS has a 2.5" element with max 9.5" of useable light distance from that element.

I get the same type of growth 7" from the PL-L lamps and 155w would be 3 elements that are 2" wide and 21" long. I also can't get my plants within an inch like you suggest because they bleach out. They don't burn (the tubes aren't that hot, ever) they bleach out from "Too Much Light".

Using LST or Scrogging I can get Waaaaaaaay more plant within usable light than if I was using a single 150w. The light density created more than makes up for the missing lumens and the higher quality of the light is exceptional.

Penetration doesn't mean anything at all in micro grows.

 

[stickyickyicky]

right now i have 14 cfls in my cab. 4x42 watters and 10x40watters. all 2700k HERE...

the temps are 85 with the lights on.
cost per light $10 + 368 watts of energy consumed = X . Do you think i can get more watts of light hps in there per sqft with the temps controllable and be able to yield more for less of the cost currently?

 

[ackuric]

85 Degrees is quite warm, my temperature 8 inches away from my 400w hps and 12 inches from my 250 hps combined are only 74 degrees. Unless you're utilizing co2 enrichment.


Right now your lights are putting out 39,000 lumens, which isn't shabby for a micro garden but you're also putting out 568 watts of energy for that 39K...I on the other hand have 79,000 lumens with 650 watts of hps HID light being used.

My setup also has proper ventilation, filtration, and air cooled hoods to keep most of the heat the lights put out, out.

 

[Hydro-Soil]

The main issue you have with heat is that your light elements are all coiled up around each other. They emit lumens that strike the neighboring coil instead of your plants.

These coils also produce additional heat. As you increase the number of watts past 27 you start producing more heat for each watt. So. If you're looking for maximum lumens with the minimum amount of heat with screw in, self-ballasted CFLs, stay with the 23-27 watt types and use more of them to reach your desired wattage.

If you're looking to generate the maximum amount of useable CFL light per watt, get the 55w PL-L lamps. They're the most efficiently balanced between lumen output and heat. Since they're flat lamps (not coiled up) they create a wonderful light pattern and are relatively easy to cool (streamlined).

As long as you're working in a small area of 2x3 or 3x3, I don't see why you'd want to go with anything else. Quiet, cool and effective.