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NickMode

Member
I am going to germ my seedd and put them in 16oz red cups.
I am planning on 1/3 peat 1/3 perlite and 1/3 EWC

Do i still need to add dolomite lime to my soil mix just for the seedlings. I am planning on having them in the red cups for 4 weeks, and just watering with plain bottled water.

edit: just searchd and found out dolo lime is not necessary for seedlings.

But mainy can i water with bottled water? I dont feel like going out and buying a ph water test kit to test my faucet water.
 
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BurnOne

No damn given.
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Yes, you do need powdered dolomite lime for seedlings!
LC's mixes can be used for ANY stage of growing. Seedlings, veg, clones, flowering and mothers.
Burn1
 

jrw

Member
There's something I don't understand.

If you could mix Peat moss, Perlite and castings/compost in various ratios - lets say 2-2-1 or 5-3-2 - why would you recommended 2 tbsp/gallon lime pr total mix volume in both cases, when it's the peat moss alone that lowers the pH?

Currently I'm using the 2-2-1 ratio for my mixes, but I don't think I need all that Perlite.

If I changed to 5-3-2 I'd still have to add the same amount of lime pr total volume of mix, although the percentage of peat moss in the mix would be higher - thus making the theoretical pH lower.

Is it not possible to go too high on lime since the recommendations on ampunt of lime targets the total amount of mix, and not the peat moss alone?
 

BurnOne

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The reason is to provide calcium and magnesium. Perlite is for drainage. Sativas like even more perlite.
Burn1
 
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Clackamas Coot

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BurnOne

I was thinking about replacing the perlite in the LC mix with rice hulls. Do you think that I might want to increase the % of rice hulls vs. using perlite? Given that the shape & size of the rice hulls are far smaller than the horticultural grade perlite options.

Thanks!

CC
 

Clackamas Coot

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BurnOne

I checked and rice hulls replace perlite 1:1 in potting soils.

They're certainly cheap enough and eventually break down and become humus if you decide to compost your used soil or if you put it out in your garden.

HTH

CC
 

Dignan

The Soapmaker!
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I've read that rice hulls take 8-10 years to decompose in soil. Is that true, fellas? This was in regular soil conditions, not hot composting.

Thanks-

Dig
 

Clackamas Coot

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Dignan said:
I've read that rice hulls take 8-10 years to decompose in soil. Is that true, fellas? This was in regular soil conditions, not hot composting.

Thanks-

Dig
Dig

That's my understanding as well. What's interesting is that worms do a better and faster job of composting rice hulls than what is accomplished with regular composting techniques. A few months vs. several months.

In Japan, rice hulls are charred (1500F) and then mixed into the soil. The charring really makes them harder meaning that they last a long, long time and continue to affect the soil from the burning/charing process.

Rice hull ash is also widely used in Asia in agriculture. Rice hull represent 20% of the total harvest and given the amount of rice grown around the world, getting rid of the rice hulls is a pretty big task.

If you don't have a farm store in your area, you might want to check with a micro-brewery. Rice hulls are used to filter the mash at some point in the brewing process. They'll almost give them to you!

Here's an article from Ohio State University The Use of Composted Rice Hulls for Nursery Container Media

CC
 
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BurnOne

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CC-
I just don't think rice hulls will offer the drainage properties that perlite would. Don't buy stuff at hydro stores. I get 4 cu. ft. bags of chunky perlite for $10 at a garden center near me. Look for it at building supply stores. They use it as insulation in block walls. 4 cu. ft. of perlite can make a hell of a lot of LC's mix.
Burn1
 
I been trying to source rice hulls in my part of the world with little luck. They are suppose to hold their place in soil due to the hairs on the hulls. Which burning would remove. The hulls are said to be high in silicone. Also, since they are hard to get rid of, using them in place of perlite would be an enviromental help. Using hulls that have been parboiled would remove the pesticides and weed seeds. I'm willing to be the guinea pig if I could just source them here on the east coast. Freight is a mother now a days.
 

Dignan

The Soapmaker!
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Call me a stinkfoot hippie LOL but the attraction to rice hulls for me is that they are (relatively) sustainable. Even if they are only a reasonably-acceptable substitute for perlite, I would be sold.
 

Clackamas Coot

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BurnOne said:
CC-
I just don't think rice hulls will offer the drainage properties that perlite would. Don't buy stuff at hydro stores. I get 4 cu. ft. bags of chunky perlite for $10 at a garden center near me. Look for it at building supply stores. They use it as insulation in block walls. 4 cu. ft. of perlite can make a hell of a lot of LC's mix.
Burn1
Burn1

They manufacture perlite up in Portland and it's cheap as all get out. Rice hulls are also the same price - there's a ton of it. It too is used as insulation for block walls. Some of the web sites which discuss strawbale construction often have information on using rice hulls.

I found some of the testing that was conducted by USDA in conjunction with University of Arkansas (Arkansas is one of the largest producers of rice in the USA). This series of tests were done to provide a way of using rice hulls rather than putting them into a landfill or simply burning them. Other testing was done in California, Texas and Louisiana - also large producers of rice in the states.

The results of those tests, done under real world field testing in both row crops as well as nursery stock container plants, were not good news for the perlite industry.

I'll look for the same links and post them - you will find them an interesting read if nothing else.

CC
 
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przcvctm

Active member
I'm planning on trying LC's 5-3-2 mix with plain peat. B1, I like your idea of avoiding the hydro store, I consider it a security risk. So, is there a significant difference in the quality of peat of different brands or is it all the same?
 

BurnOne

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przcvctm said:
So, is there a significant difference in the quality of peat of different brands or is it all the same?

Pretty much the same. Look for Pure Canadian Spaghnam Peat.
Burn1
 

ixnay007

"I can't remember the last time I had a blackout"
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Rice hulls instead of perlite brings up this:

http://www.cababstractsplus.org/google/abstract.asp?AcNo=20043089250

Univ. of Ark:

http://hort.uark.edu/research-programs/greenhouse-and-nursery-growing.html

more:

http://www.biggrower.com/index.cfm&fuseaction=showArticle&appDirectory=bgr&articleID=8953

This, cuz it has rice hulls and the scientific name Hibiscus Cannabinus :

http://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...serid=10&md5=1a77c8b43c3c4ece2f9d5b62471cf606

Finally a really nice pdf on it, which says that perlite is a bit better but PBH has a lot of benefits which make it more attractive:

http://www.bfgsupply.com/UserFiles/File/Jan%202008%20GrowerTalks%20Rice%20Hulls%20101%20(2).pdf
 

przcvctm

Active member
Sorry if I'm interfering with the whole rice hull issue, but I have one more question about LC's #1 mix.

In the past, when I've stored FFOF in my 40 gal. Rubbermaid container, there is condensation on the inside after a few days. My question is, I'd like to pre-wet my mix similarly with a casting/molasses tea, but don't know the best way to apply it. And, how much tea would be just enough to avoid making it soggy?
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
przcvctm said:
Sorry if I'm interfering with the whole rice hull issue, but I have one more question about LC's #1 mix.

In the past, when I've stored FFOF in my 40 gal. Rubbermaid container, there is condensation on the inside after a few days. My question is, I'd like to pre-wet my mix similarly with a casting/molasses tea, but don't know the best way to apply it. And, how much tea would be just enough to avoid making it soggy?
przcvctm

Regardless of which soil mix you're using, if you're going to premix the soil and especially if you're adding casting/molasses teas, you need to be concerned about anaerobic microbes adversely affecting the soil.

Keep the lid ajar on your mixing container so that the soil can breathe and let the aerobic microbes develop to make the soil more fertile for you at the time of transplanting.

HTH

CC
 

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