Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[HempKat]

Do you have any information about double embryos? I don't have access to a camera but 4 of 40 seeds are double. The seedlings are not equal in growth, one is taller than the other.

Not much really, I've seen it pop up as a question before and the consensus is they're a rare occurance much like siamese twins in humans. I don't recall anyone talking about them much beyond first discovering them though. Sorry I could be of more help. I'm no breeder but I'd think having one in 10 do that is fairly unstable. Maybe not enough to call it bad stock but enough to make you work at stabalizing it more?

 

[HempKat]

Thats very good information, glad u have patience to type and ecplain
anyway, yeah i made it myself, used this http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=509470 . theres some info about how big your scrubber should be.
so first i build without reading that, later on when i started to worry i opened it and cut it shorter. little more than those graphics say just to be sure.
i used abut 4 liters carbon, didnt need much because i though if i made it too fat it woudnt work. carbn area thickness is about inch.

today i checked it (its on top of the cab) and seems the tape isnt holding top cap tightly.
maybe theres the problem? or havent i used enough carbon? ive seen much smaller scrubbers so this shouldn be the case.

im getting more and more paranoid veryday due the window-has-to-be-open situaton.

and i can smell the plant in my room(i sleep there, but when i wake to take a leak then when coming back i feel it) not much but dunno, like you said i could be used to smell.

That looks like a pretty decent filter and given your box size 4 liters of carbon should be plenty. So the being the case then yeah that loose tape could be the problem, or some other leak some where. You need it to where all the air from the room goes thru that scrubber. Since the air has to pass thru that maze of carbon that's resistance and the air will look for weak spots to escape as the pressure rises, so your connections from the grow to the scrubber need to be secure with no weakness. So you may want to check along the ducting from the box to the scrubber to make sure there are no leaks there as well.

 

[HempKat]

I've read somewhere that there is not that much of A difference between a 600w digital ballast and the 1000w reg ballast.

Is this true.

It could be, I'm not too familiar with digital ballasts. I like the idea but they've been too expensive for me and it seems like they need time on the market to improve. They are supposed to be more efficient and the difference between a 600W and a 1000W is not that great. In fact I heard it said the core componants on the standard ballasts for a 600 and 1000 are virtually the same just wired differently. The bottomline though is which has the most penetration power. That is the most distance from the light where good growth can still occur. If you grow 4 to 5 foot plants you want a light that will penetrate at least 3 feet rather then say 2 feet. On the other hand in a SOG or ScrOG 2 feet might be preferable for the lower operating cost and/or tempuratures. Efficiency has it's place in the equation but ultimately your equipment must match your needs.

 

[-ShutterBug-]

Ah I see you have seeds, almost completely formed too, that takes another 2 to 3 weeks. If I had to time it I'd say it hermied close to a month ago.

Oh no no, I think were having a mis-communication scenario going on. I'll start over. Those seeds are not of hermie pollen. I pollinated one branch of my Godberry with a male that was culled a month ago after collecting a sufficient amount of pollen from him(Grapefruit). The nanners showed up about a week and some change ago. I heavily over-ferted it two days before the flush started, by the end of the first week of flush the nanners began appearing(I knew why they arrived). I had planned on re-vegging the plant then the above mentioned problem occured, leading me to ask my original question about whether the nanners would follow along into the cloned offspring of the re-veg since they were caused not by genetics but by a late in life over-fert(This mainly occured due to the fact of how heavy of a eater she was, just went a little overboard at the end). Since the nanners appeared I fought them for a few days, then hacked a majority of the plant keeping only the seeded branch of which only the top bud is seeded, leaving me the option to re-veg(I can fight that small war with the nanners until I got/get some feedback about whether it was worth it or not to do the re-veg, although only a few more days to decide now). I hope that this lifts the fog we seem to be having... And now I have dropped another kind of cloud around me. Later..
​

The Mother

The Father

The Babies

 

[S_a_H]

Once I up pot to my final one how long should I give the roots to recover and set in the new pot before I drop it into flower ? I just up potted and I want to start my flower cycle on the first of May.

S_a_H

 

[HempKat]

Once I up pot to my final one how long should I give the roots to recover and set in the new pot before I drop it into flower ? I just up potted and I want to start my flower cycle on the first of May.

S_a_H

Depends on how big the new pot is to the old pot. I start in a one gallon, transplant to a 3 gallon about half way thru veg and then I transplant to a 5 gallon just before I go to flower. When I do it that way it generally takes about a month before the pot is root bound and needs a new transplant.

Now as far as the plant is concerned you could go to 12/12 the same day you transplant, if you want to. Some people worry that the plant goes thru transplant shock when transplanted and therefore need a few days to a week in the new pot. Then they go to 12/12. I think this is unnecessary though, unless you have trouble with the plant during transplant it really shouldn't go into shock.

Based on my experience, when one should switch to 12/12 after the final transplant depends on how the plant grows. If it grows very vigorously and is pretty root bound when you transplant then it's a good idea to go to 12/12 right away. It looks to me like little to know root growth happens after you pass the stretch phase (first 2 to 3 weeks). If it is root bound in a month then you would want to switch to 12/12 quickly. Ideally you want to have it just shy of being root bound when you finish stretch. That way none of the soil is wasted and the roots are as big as they can be without problems. Now if it grows a bit on the slow side then maybe you could wait a bit more because it takes longer for the plant to fill the pot with roots.

If that's your final pot in that picture I'd say you don't want to wait until the beginning of May if you don't have to otherwise you'll get root bound in flower which could hurt your plant's potential. If you have to wait until May then you may want to consider up potting again just before flower.

 

[HempKat]

Oh no no, I think were having a mis-communication scenario going on. I'll start over. Those seeds are not of hermie pollen. I pollinated one branch of my Godberry with a male that was culled a month ago after collecting a sufficient amount of pollen from him(Grapefruit). The nanners showed up about a week and some change ago. I heavily over-ferted it two days before the flush started, by the end of the first week of flush the nanners began appearing(I knew why they arrived). I had planned on re-vegging the plant then the above mentioned problem occured, leading me to ask my original question about whether the nanners would follow along into the cloned offspring of the re-veg since they were caused not by genetics but by a late in life over-fert(This mainly occured due to the fact of how heavy of a eater she was, just went a little overboard at the end). Since the nanners appeared I fought them for a few days, then hacked a majority of the plant keeping only the seeded branch of which only the top bud is seeded, leaving me the option to re-veg(I can fight that small war with the nanners until I got/get some feedback about whether it was worth it or not to do the re-veg, although only a few more days to decide now). I hope that this lifts the fog we seem to be having... And now I have dropped another kind of cloud around me. Later..
​

The Mother

The Father

The Babies

Oh.........Well that's very different then.......................nevermind.

 

[Rollin Face]

Hey Hempkat i have another q for ya, my plants have been turning light yellow and i beleive ti to be a mild nute burn, i hit them with some molasses last night and this morning still looks the same, now being that i watered last night, SHOULD i flush them out with clearex today or wait until the buckets dry up again for another water? thanks for any info!

 

[alk_loid]

ill try to fix it hempkat.


8litre pots should be enough to produce some normal ammount of buds ( root mass=bud mass)


+karma to you

 

[HempKat]

Hey Hempkat i have another q for ya, my plants have been turning light yellow and i beleive ti to be a mild nute burn, i hit them with some molasses last night and this morning still looks the same, now being that i watered last night, SHOULD i flush them out with clearex today or wait until the buckets dry up again for another water? thanks for any info!

Based on your description it doesn't sound like nute burn. So I wouldn't flush it. In fact I wouldn't flush for a hute burn period. With nute burn by the time you notice it on the plant, the damage is done. The nutrient left in the soil if any, most likely wouldn't be at a high enough strength any more to require flushing.

Flushing is really more for when you have a ph imbalance that's causing nute look out or when the nutrient concentration is so high (higher then enough to cause nute burn) as to be toxic.

Yellowing of leaves can be caused by a number of things, the most common is a nitrogen deficiency. It can also be caused by overwatering, being root bound, a micro nutrient deficiency and possibly a couple of other things I'm forgetting.

To better diagnose what it is I'd need to see a picture. I'd also need to know more details of your grow and what you've been doing. How old are the plants? How big are the pots?, what stage of growth are they in?, what's their diet?, how much water do you give and how often?, etc.

 

[HempKat]

ill try to fix it hempkat.


8litre pots should be enough to produce some normal ammount of buds ( root mass=bud mass)


+karma to you

Yeah 8 liters is about 2 gallons which sounds about the right size for a space that's the size of your space.

 

[Rollin Face]

Hey HempK thanks for the reply and sorry for lack of pics, heres a link to my thread i have going on: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=81384

The plants are SSSDH, Double Kush, and Bubbleicious ran in basic moonshine mix, OF,FFsoil, LW. They are at day 26 and flowering in 5 gal, transplanted the day of 12/12.

I water every 5 or so days typically the diet consists of Botanicare LK, some bloom, and sweet, with an occasional molasses. I hope its enough info to help. I personally though i was getting too crazy with nutes, the schedule has been one watering of straight h20 and the next is with LK,Bloom and Sweet and so on.

 

[HempKat]

Hey HempK thanks for the reply and sorry for lack of pics, heres a link to my thread i have going on: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=81384

The plants are SSSDH, Double Kush, and Bubbleicious ran in basic moonshine mix, OF,FFsoil, LW. They are at day 26 and flowering in 5 gal, transplanted the day of 12/12.

I water every 5 or so days typically the diet consists of Botanicare LK, some bloom, and sweet, with an occasional molasses. I hope its enough info to help. I personally though i was getting too crazy with nutes, the schedule has been one watering of straight h20 and the next is with LK,Bloom and Sweet and so on.

Well based on your pics that you posted on April 5th all the plants looked pretty healthy to me. Maybe a bit lighter shade of green then some people get their plants but then again some folks like to go heavy on nitrogen which makes the leaves a darker green. You wouldn't want to do anything about that now as you're well into flower and too much nitrogen in flower can slow down the flowering process.

I've used everything you're using except for that Sweet stuff. I'm not positive so you might want to check before changing anything but I'm pretty sure the main ingredient in that is molassas so you shouldn't need both it and molassas. What I noticed about PureBlend Pro is that when using it you don't need to have a watering inbetween feedings that's just plain water. In other words you can give it every watering. I even believe it indicates that in the directions on the bottle. Really that watering every so often with just water is more for chemical based ferts to help prevent a salt build up. Organic ferts shouldn't have much if any salts in it so no real need to avoid salt build ups. Also organics tend to be a bit mild. In the case of PureBlend Pro Bloom I found this to be true and even though I gave it every watering, the plants seemed like they could have taken on a stronger dose. I'm not suggesting you make it stronger but I am suggesting you stop giving that watering of just water, inbetween feedings. That should clear up the slight yellowing.

Also keep in mind that with a plant in flowering, the plant is steadily drawing closer to the end of it's life. By week 6 for many strains, it's not at all unusual to have leaves changing color and even some drop off, especially the lower leaves which don't get much light being heavily shaded by the canopy. From what I saw in the pics from 4-5-08 your plants are looking pretty healthy overall to me. So unless the problem isn't visible in those pics and is much worse then those pics make it seem, I'd say you don't have much to worry about.

 

[Rollin Face]

Wow thanks man! I really appreciate your speedy answers and they are all very informative, thanks again hempkat!

 

[Hubert]

Cool Thread I didn't read through all 90 something pages so sorry if I repeat questions.

1. Has anyone heard of, or used Jasmonic Acid with regards to increased trich production with MJ? While we're on the subject, who knows where to get some?

2. What of ethylene gas? Anyone have solid ratios? Male/Female.

3. What (roughly) is the most UVB I can throw at my plants? Without killing them that is.

This thread really is a cool idea, I look forward to learning from the masters

 

[HempKat]

Wow thanks man! I really appreciate your speedy answers and they are all very informative, thanks again hempkat!

No problem, ever since I started doing this kind of help back at OG 3 or 4 years ago I have always tried to reply within 24 hours. That was because when I first started going to OG I saw alot of frustrated people because they were depending on someone's advice and often they would have to wait days to get an answer and sometimes you need an answer right away.

I usually at least check in once a day so I just committed to the idea that I'd check daily and if anything needed answering I'd answer it so that nobody had to wait more then 24 hours. Now back then I had others helping me and so if I didn't happen to log on in 24 hours there were half a dozen others ready, willing and able to help so back then we usually got people answers in just a few hours. Now, I'm mostly by myself so there are occassions where I might not make it back in 24 hours. Ultimately though I'd say 99% of the time I get back to questions within 24 hours.

By the way, for the record, and this isn't just to you but anyone that might read this. If you can help it, never put yourself in a position of depending on another person for your info. There are all sorts of scenarios that can prevent a person logging on for days or that would even keep them from logging on ever again. If you depend entirely on someone else then eventually you'll be left hanging. So it's a good idea to have something like the Marijuana Grow Bible or some other such how to book for growing to cover you when help is not available and then use online help from people when you just need clarifications or want more info on a subject then the book offers.

 

[HempKat]

Cool Thread I didn't read through all 90 something pages so sorry if I repeat questions.

1. Has anyone heard of, or used Jasmonic Acid with regards to increased trich production with MJ? While we're on the subject, who knows where to get some?

2. What of ethylene gas? Anyone have solid ratios? Male/Female.

3. What (roughly) is the most UVB I can throw at my plants? Without killing them that is.

This thread really is a cool idea, I look forward to learning from the masters

Well first of all, keep in mind me and most folks who might work a thread like this, would probably not be rightly considered Masters. Experienced definately but the idea of this thread is to provide a good entry level source of info.

To that end, I and most of the folks I've worked with in threads like these have not gotten into the more advanced methods which is what you're asking about.

1) Never heard of Jasmonic Acid before so I can't help you there.
2) I've never worked with ethylene gas so I can't help you there.
3) I don't know uvb is harmful to humans so I don't recommend using it in growing. If you want uvb then I say grow outdoors. That uvb is also harmful to humans but you have to deal with it anyway unless you never go out. The important point though is the uvb levels your plant will be exposed to there are much greater and more of what the plant would respond to then any artificially generated uvb radiation. Also keep in mind that while many believe exposure to uvb adds something to the mix and it's a known fact that trichomes have excellent uvb absorbtion properties, there is no firm proof that adding uvb to a grow will make a difference. So if you factor in that it's harmful, won't give you the amount of uvb the plant might expect, is an addition expense both initially and to your electric bill and there's no proff it works. Adding uvb to a grow then becomes a risky and unworthwhile proposition in my opinion.

As for things like ethylene gas or Jasmonic acid, those are things that while they may promote a desired response in plants they are not natural to marijuana's growth processes. I strongly discourage people from going down that path. Nature's way is the best way.

 

[alk_loid]

found spidermite webs today, from one of the clones, lucky that this was small, i mean really small plant.
friend warned me about mites in the clones.

i looked other plants for webs, didnt see nothing. how dangerous theese little monsters are?and how deadly those things asre to plant itself?

edit: i remembered that i bought thing named Decis for things like that.
found some link to it too. http://www.bayercropscience.co.uk/c... Centre/Insecticides Molluscicides/Decis.mspx

this should work by sticking to leaves and get inside plant ,so if the bugs eat the plant they die.
i sprayed the lower leaves and soil. washed soil with little plain water aferwards,

how is best to defeat them. it states that its not harmful to bees and such.
and is those bug killing formulas harmful to plant?
man, i have to get it right and only hempkat to help

 

[alk_loid]

Hempkat, are UV ozone generators dangerous to humans?
i found some company that sells them here, and they say that old ones with high voltage systems emited some gased that were not good.
now new? technology with uv is not harmful.

how well those things work

i asked about those things lately from you.
but i found smaller ozone generators aswell.
have to read or contact company, if i sleep in same room i dont wanna risk my health.

 

[Hubert]

As for things like ethylene gas or Jasmonic acid, those are things that while they may promote a desired response in plants they are not natural to marijuana's growth processes. I strongly discourage people from going down that path. Nature's way is the best way.

I have to disagree with you here, ethylene gas is emitted from rotting fruit...surely it's part of the plants evolutionary process. Rotting fruit means fertile ground, which means a nutrient source to support female plants.

Jasmonic acid is also surprisingly natural, it may be synthetically produced (I don't know) but it is based on a plants natural defense mechanism to herbivorial attacks. It is basically the same thing as subjecting your plants to plant eating bugs, and letting their natural defenses take over...in this case trichomes.

The UVB subject I agree is a controversial one. I'd like to add one thing though, I have witnessed changes to my plants first hand with the presence of UVB. Like you say though, who's to say if the change is for the best. Again I turn to evolution on this one, UVB has had it's effects on our world and plants and animals alike have certainly adapted to it. In that way I think there are definetely changes happening with UVB exposure, but without alot of evidence it's hard to pinpoint what exactly it's doing for MJ.

As for you not being a master...experience is what spawns a master IMO