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got one wireing ? new subpannel
- Thread starter Dr. G
- Start date
dude, there looks like a whole lotta wrong going on there.
you wanna explain where all those wires on the neutral bar go?
are you back feeding the sub thru the dp 30 amp breaker?
you wanna explain where all those wires on the neutral bar go?
are you back feeding the sub thru the dp 30 amp breaker?
G
Guest
yeah bro that dont look right. your hot wires coming from your main should be feeding the lug on the top left and the bottom right. the big lug on top right is the main ground. i have never seen black wires going to ground bar, but sinse your using red for hot i guess its cool but usally black to hot and white and green to ground.
EcoNepenthe
Active member
STOP
STOP
Based on your pic, you should NOT attempt any wiring projects. Nothing personal, but, you're dangerous. Very dangerous.
I suggest you go to the library, home depot get a book on wiring, online even, do ya research on home wiring, first. Get an understanding of electrical wiring before you attempt such a project. No one wants a fire. Always think security and safety first.
What you want to do is the right idea. Just needs more planning.
Hope this gives you something to think about.
Success w/ya grow!!!
Stay safe!!!
Eco
Watch em grow!!!
STOP
Based on your pic, you should NOT attempt any wiring projects. Nothing personal, but, you're dangerous. Very dangerous.
I suggest you go to the library, home depot get a book on wiring, online even, do ya research on home wiring, first. Get an understanding of electrical wiring before you attempt such a project. No one wants a fire. Always think security and safety first.
What you want to do is the right idea. Just needs more planning.
Hope this gives you something to think about.
Success w/ya grow!!!
Stay safe!!!
Eco
Watch em grow!!!
Y
yamaha_1fan
I have to agree with Frank. That does not look right. You have 4 circuits but 8 wires going to the neutral bar. That bar with all the screws should be the neutral bar, not the ground bar. The panel may not have come with a ground bar and you may have to add one.
Maybe I am used to seeing bigger panels but how does this support 240? Is that lug to the left and bottom right two different legs?
I would NOT put any juice to this panel
Whats the bigger white and green to the left?
Maybe I am used to seeing bigger panels but how does this support 240? Is that lug to the left and bottom right two different legs?
I would NOT put any juice to this panel
Whats the bigger white and green to the left?
Last edited:
ShootinBudz
Member
I knew this would be funny when I read the title. When you can't form a sentence and even misspell "wiring" you should hire a pro.
not to mention that you have 16 guage wire coming from the 20 amp breakers.
you have a nice fire waiting to happen.
take more pics so we can see where all the wires are going.
you have a nice fire waiting to happen.
take more pics so we can see where all the wires are going.
Dr. G
Active member
i have 12 gauge wire comming from those 20 amps
that 30 is to go to a new lighting controler that is 240
those 12 gauges are nutrual and ground going to the nutral/ground bar from 3 120v 20 amp recepticals
i will have a 60 amp running from my main breaker to my sub pannel I HAVE NOT WIRED THAT YET this is the ? i have there 4 wires red black white and green hot hot nutal and ground
do the nutral and the ground go on the same bar? since that what it kinda says in the pannel instructions
everything is exactally what it should look like in my book but theres no ground bar on my sub pannel
that 30 is to go to a new lighting controler that is 240
those 12 gauges are nutrual and ground going to the nutral/ground bar from 3 120v 20 amp recepticals
i will have a 60 amp running from my main breaker to my sub pannel I HAVE NOT WIRED THAT YET this is the ? i have there 4 wires red black white and green hot hot nutal and ground
do the nutral and the ground go on the same bar? since that what it kinda says in the pannel instructions
everything is exactally what it should look like in my book but theres no ground bar on my sub pannel
Last edited:
oldgrayhair
Member
Oh man, come back and check in so we'll know you aren't crispy!
Meanwhile, I'll smoke one for ya!
Peace - OGH
Meanwhile, I'll smoke one for ya!
Peace - OGH
Dr. G
Active member
found it
When you go from the main panel to a sub panel the grounding changes. You have to have the ground seperate from the neutral. The neutral and ground can only come together in one panel or disconnect box in a system.
It is as simple as this. You can get a 60 amp panel and 6-3 NM cable. Get a couple of connectors to hold the wire. Run the wire between them and tighten down the connectors so the wire doesnt move. strip the wires back to the connectors on the inside of the panels. Put the wires in the sub panel this way... Take red and black wires each to a hot lug. Then the white to the neutral bar. Now take the ground to a seperate ground bar mounted to the side or top or bottom of the panel box. You can get a ground kit if one didnt come with the panel. Now take the ground and the neutral in the old main panel to the neutral bar. Then take the hots to a 60 amp 2 pole breaker. Voila.
Now anything you take to this new sub panel will have to be wired differently then the old panel. All grounds to the seperate ground bar. All neutrals to the neutral bar. NO exceptions.
4 months ago
Source(s):
electrician 10 yrs exp.
When you go from the main panel to a sub panel the grounding changes. You have to have the ground seperate from the neutral. The neutral and ground can only come together in one panel or disconnect box in a system.
It is as simple as this. You can get a 60 amp panel and 6-3 NM cable. Get a couple of connectors to hold the wire. Run the wire between them and tighten down the connectors so the wire doesnt move. strip the wires back to the connectors on the inside of the panels. Put the wires in the sub panel this way... Take red and black wires each to a hot lug. Then the white to the neutral bar. Now take the ground to a seperate ground bar mounted to the side or top or bottom of the panel box. You can get a ground kit if one didnt come with the panel. Now take the ground and the neutral in the old main panel to the neutral bar. Then take the hots to a 60 amp 2 pole breaker. Voila.
Now anything you take to this new sub panel will have to be wired differently then the old panel. All grounds to the seperate ground bar. All neutrals to the neutral bar. NO exceptions.
4 months ago
Source(s):
electrician 10 yrs exp.
Y
yamaha_1fan
Yes you need the ground bar. There should be some made by the same manufacturer as the panel.
You wired it and if you say its 12 AWg then so be it but from the pic, those wires coming off the breakers look small.
You wired it and if you say its 12 AWg then so be it but from the pic, those wires coming off the breakers look small.
G
Guest
will some one explain to me why you cant bring a ground wire from your main box that is attached to a ground bar to the new box main grounding lug? i wired mine this way and i am having no problems , common is ground and as long as its attached to a bar going to ground its grounded.
Dr. G
Active member
ok then ill look at hd and see if the guy shafted me ill change them if not
fuck i wanted to install this today i need that extra light oh well i guess tomorow
on another note why the fuck dont they sell a ground with the fucking pannel?
edit those fucks its 14 aug so i guess i need to upgrade?
those 240 ones are 8 gauge and the 60 amp im useing is #6
fuck i wanted to install this today i need that extra light oh well i guess tomorow
on another note why the fuck dont they sell a ground with the fucking pannel?
edit those fucks its 14 aug so i guess i need to upgrade?
those 240 ones are 8 gauge and the 60 amp im useing is #6
Last edited:
yamaha_1fan said:
It looks like the existing bar is isolated/insulated from the box. Since the box should be grounded, any old grounding bar should do for the grounds, don't you think? ...considering that, if you used the more expensive insulated one, you'd have to strap it to the box anyway. The existing bar should be used for neutrals. (Maybe with the money he saves on the grounding bar he can buy some green wire.)
That pic is confusing as hell until you realize the black wires are grounds. LOL I can just imagine trying to get that by a building inspector. He'd be laughing his ass off as he filled out that big red tag.
Dr. G - Re. the hole you knocked out but aren't using: Either use it or pop a cap into it, but don't leave that sharp metal burr inside your panel and don't leave a big hole in your panel.
PC
Last edited:
ThereIsHope
Member
Danger
Danger
Inspector here:
Sub panels must always have the neutral and grounding bars separate - always.
Wire sizing is critical as well or you may have a fire.
COPPER wiring only:
15 amp breaker = minimum of 14 AWG (larger wiring is ok i.e. 12 awg)
20 amp = 12 awg
30 amp = 10 awg
If runs are longer than 50 feet, upsize wiring one wire size larger for line loss.
If wiring is exposed to sunlight, use UF (underground feeder) or NM-C romex.
Never place romex in conduit (heat buildup) -
Short sections of romex are ok in conduit to protect against mechanical strikes.
Danger
Inspector here:
Sub panels must always have the neutral and grounding bars separate - always.
Wire sizing is critical as well or you may have a fire.
COPPER wiring only:
15 amp breaker = minimum of 14 AWG (larger wiring is ok i.e. 12 awg)
20 amp = 12 awg
30 amp = 10 awg
If runs are longer than 50 feet, upsize wiring one wire size larger for line loss.
If wiring is exposed to sunlight, use UF (underground feeder) or NM-C romex.
Never place romex in conduit (heat buildup) -
Short sections of romex are ok in conduit to protect against mechanical strikes.
Dr. G
Active member
what is romex is that the wire i have i was going to run my #6 wire from my main to my subpannel in flex metal conduit you say no conduit?
oh and i do not break off the tabbs on my outlets right the red goeson the brass the black on the silver and the white on the green right
oh and i do not break off the tabbs on my outlets right the red goeson the brass the black on the silver and the white on the green right
Last edited:
Dr. G. - They're not called caps, but for the life of me I can't think of the correct name right now and caps sounded better than thingamajig. LOL. They're a "knockout plug" or some damn thing like that.
Romex is the kind of wire where you have three (or more) jacketed wires (like the wires in your photo) inside of another jacket. You don't want to put Romex inside conduit. The jacketed wires like you have in your photo you do want to run inside conduit.
It doesn't make any difference to the electricity what color the wire jacket is. The colors are for us humans. Here in the USA, standard color assignment is black or red = hot; white = neutral; green = ground. However, for the way you have your panel wired, the way you intend to wire the receptacles is correct.
And don't mess with those tabs! Removing them can set up a weird magnetic field that makes your testicles fall off.
PC
Romex is the kind of wire where you have three (or more) jacketed wires (like the wires in your photo) inside of another jacket. You don't want to put Romex inside conduit. The jacketed wires like you have in your photo you do want to run inside conduit.
It doesn't make any difference to the electricity what color the wire jacket is. The colors are for us humans. Here in the USA, standard color assignment is black or red = hot; white = neutral; green = ground. However, for the way you have your panel wired, the way you intend to wire the receptacles is correct.
And don't mess with those tabs! Removing them can set up a weird magnetic field that makes your testicles fall off.
PC
Y
yamaha_1fan
grizz said:
I cant answer that question. I have mine hooked up the same way.
How do you know you are not having problems though? Ground is not needed for a device to work, its purely a safety issue. So until you shock the shit out of yourself, you really arent going to know if the ground is working properly
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