Son of a bitch so I had been adding humic acid granules from down to earth to my mixes but ran out and just never replenished so am I anything that because I did that is why all my micros are so depleted
Sulfur toxicity and low P issues
- Thread starter Stoobeey
- Start date
Looks like you were able to remove it
Reading up now, but I already ordered a kg of tm7.
And grabbing a bag of buus organic potting mix for my seedlings for now. Don't wanna burn anything
Charles Dankens
Well-known member
What's wrong with keeping a 1kg bag on hand?
Your plants are suffering from having little too much sodium in your soil. You are in the 41 range when it should be much lower. Having excess sodium is locking up the other micronutrients.Damn. I don't get what's going on at all in my grow aside from the lack of P then .
These ladies should all be way bigger and ready for 7s. The ones in 7s should be almost ready to flip but obviously not
I good fix is to flush the soil with rain water thoroughly a couple of times. The only water I know of for flushing sodium is pure Rain Water. Using any other won't work. Good luck friend and thanks for sharing your soil test.
LungCooking
Active member
Hey, in my opinion, the roots arent happy because of ph, soil too hot and not enought drainage. You need to transplant to a very light fertilized soil.. you are growing weed, people get lost with nutrients and they dont need that much.. dont forget..
when you start to see new healthy growth you can then transplant to a bigger pot richer in fertilizer
when you start to see new healthy growth you can then transplant to a bigger pot richer in fertilizer
My soil drains pretty damn well I add more perlite when I fill new pots if I feel like it's too heavy still. pH it suggest elemental sulfur but my sulfur is high already, so not totally sure how to taper back towards 6.
I grabbed some Malibu baby bu to up pot the seedlings and probably the 2 burnt looking ones in 4" pots. Everyone has been top dressed with seabird guano since my results showed next to nothing in mix
Well I flushed them all last night with the after system water (what do I do about rolling back pH of I shouldn't be adding sulphur . I thought the lime was the buffer.. but it matches closely to my filters pH (filters may need replacing but ppm is like 270 or 280)
LungCooking
Active member
flushing soil in these conditions will only make it worst.. flushing is good when you grow in coco. else i call it watering, if roots arent happy you dont want to water more..
I think your soil is full of salts from previous grows.. recycling soil isnt easy as it looks..
i would start with fresh and very light fertilized soil till they get a nice foliage.. then start transplanting to a more heavy fertilized soil, fresh, new... if organic, ofc cooking for at least a month the soil before using, etc etc
and dont overwater! hehe only water when pots are light
good luck
Ca++
Well-known member
I don't think the sodium would be bad, if the small stuff was in place. Until then, I'm not sure the extra P would be helpful. P is for power almost, but you can't really move forward anyway.
I would look at Zn particularly. I'm not sure how the mix on order is proportioned, but our plants are particularly fond of it, and while it's a tough call, it does seem one of the main issues.
This really does need a lot of work. I can't see the full picture, there is so much going on. I'm going to side with the 'give up' prospective, and suggest massaging or showering off a lot of the soil, and starting again with a commercial mix. Unless building soil is more important to you than growing plants. Which I would understand.
Perhaps a more prosperous approach would be soil testing a new bag. Then after transition. Then at the end. So you get a clear picture of what your plants are doing to it. In order to put it right.
I would look at Zn particularly. I'm not sure how the mix on order is proportioned, but our plants are particularly fond of it, and while it's a tough call, it does seem one of the main issues.
This really does need a lot of work. I can't see the full picture, there is so much going on. I'm going to side with the 'give up' prospective, and suggest massaging or showering off a lot of the soil, and starting again with a commercial mix. Unless building soil is more important to you than growing plants. Which I would understand.
Perhaps a more prosperous approach would be soil testing a new bag. Then after transition. Then at the end. So you get a clear picture of what your plants are doing to it. In order to put it right.
Not sure what salts it has from previous grows. This mix hado mly had RO water run through it till a few weeks ago when I yanked the ro filter to get some mineralization back in it. The only liquid I put in is the org fish emulsion I occasionally use mostly for foliar. My grow runs on blumat so I dial them back until my pot basically always feel light. My soil cooks for 4 to 8 weeks typically (this is like round 5 and more perlite , ewc, and peat usually added at every recycle
Ive got tm7 coming tomorrow so I can water that in in the next day or so when my soil dries up a bit from " flushing" so that will help out my micro levels and in turn hopefully help out elsewhere. The bus potting soil I grabbed is sadly my 1st commercial bag purchase in 3 years . Sad day lol. Been killing it since changed to this soil set up.
Look at his plants on the first page. What do you mean you don't think too much sodium would be bad? Look a the soil test and his plants. .
Thats why we do soil tests friend.
I don't understand where people get the idea that a person can add one micronutrient to save a grow. That's ridiculous and unheard of in the Horticulture world. The reason is that a nutrient sequence must be in order for any one micronutrient to be absorbed. What is a nutrient sequence?
It is important to understand that plants have a defined biological sequence of nutrient uptake. This starts with Boron, which stimulates the root system to leach sugars into the medium. These sugars feed the microbes, which transform silicates (Si) into silicic acid through a process called silicification. Silicic acid enhances Calcium uptake, followed by Organic Nitrogen (from L-Amino Acids), Magnesium, Phosphorus and Potassium.
These elements should be present in a bioavailable form to plants. If one nutrient in this sequence is not available (or less available), the uptake of all other elements in the sequence is more difficult or missed. It is very important to respect this sequence in order to avoid mineral deficiencies and/or nutrient uptake problems.
These elements should be present in a bioavailable form to plants. If one nutrient in this sequence is not available (or less available), the uptake of all other elements in the sequence is more difficult or missed. It is very important to respect this sequence in order to avoid mineral deficiencies and/or nutrient uptake problems.
There is a common saying amongst organic farmers, “Feed the soil, not the plants.” The plant is only part of the equation. There are extremely complex and somewhat mysterious activities occurring constantly between mineral ions, microbes, plant tissue, water, and gases.
I expect someone will argue about nutrient sequence too.
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Lastly, fertilizer isn’t medicine for sick plants. If plants are ailing for other reasons, fertilizer won’t help plants snap out of it. When the nutrient biological sequence is out of sequence from over or underexposure then it's called a nutrient lockout. Once the sequence is broken it's hard to regain the sequence back quickly. Sure one can rebuild the soil but that takes a lot of time. Time is money and trying to add this or that is in my opinion a waste of both.
