Need help identifying the problem

[Teepi]

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Okay i need some help with this one.
This lady is about 3,5 weeks old, she's growin in platinium light mix, using biobizz fertilizers (biogrow, algamic, bioheaven, calmag, rootjuice) Haven't fertilized her more than once last time i watered, that was few days ago. I also have CO2 bag in tent which is 80x80x180cm with 2x55w T5 light. She and her sisters were just fine on monday when i moved my tent to another room in my house, they were pretty fine yesterday aswell except some small yellowing on leaves, which is why i gave them some fertilizers (2ml/litre of water) last time i watered. Today i found them looking like this, leaves curled down and also on 2 plants leaves are downwards, not up like they should be.

My temp is at about 25 celsius, humidity around 40-50%, i know i should get temperature up, but atm nothing i can do about it.

I need help, im worried about my little ones, anyone got ideas what is the problem? Thanks in advance.

 

[goingrey]

I would say that you're overwatering but the soil looks dry so I guess not.

25c is perfect, no need to raise the temperature.

 

[Teepi]

I would say that you're overwatering but the soil looks dry so I guess not.

25c is perfect, no need to raise the temperature.

I don't think it's that, i watered them on friday or saturday.. i already forgot which but i lean on friday, and i watered them up to a point where first drops of water came out under the pot. I always water slowly, like bit of water then wait for 5 or so minutes before i add more water. I also just today tried soil on the biggest one, feels dry up to like .5-1cm.

Though what do i know, im still newbie so it could be that aswell, but i thought overwatering symptoms show up faster than 3-5 days.

 

[HempKat]

How far are you keeping them from those T-5's? They seem really underdeveloped for 3.5 weeks and they seemed kind of stretched, like you have the light too far from them. Also are you saying you've only fed them once in 3.5 weeks? They look N deficient to me which would make sense if they've only been fed once. I would have probably fed plants that old at least 3 times by now if not more. Also being there isn't much to them yet I probably wouldn't be trying to supplement with CO2 right now.

 

[Teepi]

How far are you keeping them from those T-5's? They seem really underdeveloped for 3.5 weeks and they seemed kind of stretched, like you have the light too far from them. Also are you saying you've only fed them once in 3.5 weeks? They look N deficient to me which would make sense if they've only been fed once. I would have probably fed plants that old at least 3 times by now if not more. Also being there isn't much to them yet I probably wouldn't be trying to supplement with CO2 right now.

Thanks for your reply.

As I was reading your post, I realised that I actually did feed them nutrients twice already, once before last time I gave them 1ml/litre. And I'll be watering them today again, soil feels dry up to 2cm or so, might aswell try give 3ml/litre this time, maybe?

Yeah they are stretched because as they were 1 week old, I had planned on moving them to tent under T5 light, they were under too small light which is enough for 1 seedling up to week or two, but i failed this time because at that 1 week marker, our son told he's moving out in 2 weeks, so I thought Imma just wait that time and move tents into new room when our son moves out. That was a bit of a fail from my side as I didn't realise they would stretch that much. T5 is now about 40cm from the ladies, seems enough for now, not sure though, need to wait a bit and see how they start growing with nutes and better light.

Also, Im quite sure I now know what was the problem really, it was most likely temperature being too low for roots. I had them on floor with just a plate under them, and this room is a bit too cold apparently on floor level. So last night I took one heater from my other tent, and put it between these 4 ladies. Today morning they looked a bit better, leaves were not hanging down like they were yesterday. So im hoping it was just that, which caused the leaves curling and hanging. Gonna go shopping today, and buy heater that will heat the whole room so I wouldn't need seperate heaters for every tent I have. This is luckily problem only during winter times, and need to use heater then.

Now im just worried of my quasimodo, that she might die as she's still very small and might have taken too much cold. She was stubborn seed, took long to come out of soil, and seed got stuck on her, and I had to carefully remove the seed around her. But she survived, and she started growing 3 different tops... and now she looks like she's gonna die, and it makes me sad.

Anyway, for now it looks like all is good. Temp went up to 30 in tent, which is good for younglings afaik. Buying heater today, and pay close attention to them, to see how they recover from my mistakes. Live and learn!

Oh also, as you said you would've fed them like 3 times. At what point one should start feeding nutes? In light mix that im using. I thought light mix is good up to 2 weeks before needing nutes, of course this may change with each plant.

 

[HempKat]

Thanks for your reply.

As I was reading your post, I realised that I actually did feed them nutrients twice already, once before last time I gave them 1ml/litre. And I'll be watering them today again, soil feels dry up to 2cm or so, might aswell try give 3ml/litre this time, maybe?

Yeah they are stretched because as they were 1 week old, I had planned on moving them to tent under T5 light, they were under too small light which is enough for 1 seedling up to week or two, but i failed this time because at that 1 week marker, our son told he's moving out in 2 weeks, so I thought Imma just wait that time and move tents into new room when our son moves out. That was a bit of a fail from my side as I didn't realise they would stretch that much. T5 is now about 40cm from the ladies, seems enough for now, not sure though, need to wait a bit and see how they start growing with nutes and better light.

Also, Im quite sure I now know what was the problem really, it was most likely temperature being too low for roots. I had them on floor with just a plate under them, and this room is a bit too cold apparently on floor level. So last night I took one heater from my other tent, and put it between these 4 ladies. Today morning they looked a bit better, leaves were not hanging down like they were yesterday. So im hoping it was just that, which caused the leaves curling and hanging. Gonna go shopping today, and buy heater that will heat the whole room so I wouldn't need seperate heaters for every tent I have. This is luckily problem only during winter times, and need to use heater then.

Now im just worried of my quasimodo, that she might die as she's still very small and might have taken too much cold. She was stubborn seed, took long to come out of soil, and seed got stuck on her, and I had to carefully remove the seed around her. But she survived, and she started growing 3 different tops... and now she looks like she's gonna die, and it makes me sad.

Anyway, for now it looks like all is good. Temp went up to 30 in tent, which is good for younglings afaik. Buying heater today, and pay close attention to them, to see how they recover from my mistakes. Live and learn!

Oh also, as you said you would've fed them like 3 times. At what point one should start feeding nutes? In light mix that im using. I thought light mix is good up to 2 weeks before needing nutes, of course this may change with each plant.

When you see something saying like a certain soil mix is good for up to two weeks that's just a guideline really. As you kind of said every strain is different some can go a few weeks with very little others might need food right off the bat. Now I've never used any special mixes like that, I typically use just normal potting soil organic preferably when I can find it at my local Lowes or Home Depot. I typically start feeding at half strength on the 2nd watering and am up to full strength by the end of week 2 using a veg fert of 5-1-1. 40 CM's for T-5's sounds about right hopefully they'll start thickening up now. When you transplant them to bigger pots you can bury some of that stretched out stem to kind of make them shorter again. The cold floor could have kept them from taking up much in the way of nutrients and that plus the extra time under a weak light might explain why they seem under developed so now that you've corrected those things hopefully things will look better and hopefully any you were worried about will start getting better. Cannabis can survive pretty cold temps 10 C or above.

Below is what my plants typically look like when they're at the point in time you say yours are, just for comparison:

 

[Creeperpark]

Your plants don't have enough light to process the amount of nutrients you've given them.

 

[Creeperpark]

When you see something saying like a certain soil mix is good for up to two weeks that's just a guideline really. As you kind of said every strain is different some can go a few weeks with very little others might need food right off the bat. Now I've never used any special mixes like that, I typically use just normal potting soil organic preferably when I can find it at my local Lowes or Home Depot. I typically start feeding at half strength on the 2nd watering and am up to full strength by the end of week 2 using a veg fert of 5-1-1. 40 CM's for T-5's sounds about right hopefully they'll start thickening up now. When you transplant them to bigger pots you can bury some of that stretched out stem to kind of make them shorter again. The cold floor could have kept them from taking up much in the way of nutrients and that plus the extra time under a weak light might explain why they seem under developed so now that you've corrected those things hopefully things will look better and hopefully any you were worried about will start getting better. Cannabis can survive pretty cold temps 10 C or above.

Below is what my plants typically look like when they're at the point in time you say yours are, just for comparison:

Those look nice under T5s. Do you keep them in the same container or up-pot into a larger pot for flowering.?

 

[Teepi]

When you see something saying like a certain soil mix is good for up to two weeks that's just a guideline really. As you kind of said every strain is different some can go a few weeks with very little others might need food right off the bat. Now I've never used any special mixes like that, I typically use just normal potting soil organic preferably when I can find it at my local Lowes or Home Depot. I typically start feeding at half strength on the 2nd watering and am up to full strength by the end of week 2 using a veg fert of 5-1-1. 40 CM's for T-5's sounds about right hopefully they'll start thickening up now. When you transplant them to bigger pots you can bury some of that stretched out stem to kind of make them shorter again. The cold floor could have kept them from taking up much in the way of nutrients and that plus the extra time under a weak light might explain why they seem under developed so now that you've corrected those things hopefully things will look better and hopefully any you were worried about will start getting better. Cannabis can survive pretty cold temps 10 C or above.

Below is what my plants typically look like when they're at the point in time you say yours are, just for comparison:

Those look fantastic!

Okay, I went out and bought this small heater to heat up the room, now temps are around 29-32C, that's around 80-84F. Fed them some nutes, light still at about 40cm. They actually got bit worse, they apparently took some damage from somewhere.. cold, dry, light... not sure maybe a bit of all. But now they look like they'll start growing again, thank god! Also bought better light for seedlings, to prevent this from happening again. Got my small tent ready aswell for next ones, so setup wise I'm ready for next set, at least learned a lesson.

How much is okay to bury that stretched out stem?

 

[HempKat]

Those look nice under T5s. Do you keep them in the same container or up-pot into a larger pot for flowering.?

Those were actually up potted twice if I remember correctly, first into a 3 gallon pot not long after this pic and then into a 5 gallon pot just before going into flower. I probably could have waited on the 2nd transplant but I didn't want to transplant during flower but was afraid if I didn't transplant before they would end up becoming rootbound in flower. Also those were actually done under T-8s not T-5's When I did that grow T-5's were just starting to become available and were horribly overpriced even at places like Home Depot or Lowes. In fact T-5's never became cheap enough for me to try while I was still growing. If/When I start up again it will likely be LEDs I'll be spending my money on so I doubt I'll ever get around to T-5s.

 

[HempKat]

Those look fantastic!

Okay, I went out and bought this small heater to heat up the room, now temps are around 29-32C, that's around 80-84F. Fed them some nutes, light still at about 40cm. They actually got bit worse, they apparently took some damage from somewhere.. cold, dry, light... not sure maybe a bit of all. But now they look like they'll start growing again, thank god! Also bought better light for seedlings, to prevent this from happening again. Got my small tent ready aswell for next ones, so setup wise I'm ready for next set, at least learned a lesson.

How much is okay to bury that stretched out stem?

You could bury it all the way up to the first set of leaves if you wanted to but I would say try to keep the soil about an inch below the first set of leaves. Also just so you're aware any damage that has happened to the leaves from nutrient deficiency, ph imbalance, etc. generally will remain forever present on the leaves that were damaged. So don't judge your plants by those leave but rather by any new growth. Also while 40 cms is about normal you could probably get by dropping that down to do or maybe even 25 if you wanted to. With the plants in the picture above I had those under T-8 Fluoros (which usually run a bit warmer then T-5s) and I kept them at about 20cms above the tops of the plants which is why the spacing between the branches is fairly tight. Plants usually stretch when they're not getting good strong light at their tops but the sense there is stronger light a little higher up.. Now that you have a heater in the room though you'll want to keep a close eye on how warm it is at the tops of the plants. If you decide to try lowering the lights and it gets much above the temps they're at now you might want to lower the heat some.

 

[Creeperpark]

When you see something saying like a certain soil mix is good for up to two weeks that's just a guideline really. As you kind of said every strain is different some can go a few weeks with very little others might need food right off the bat. Now I've never used any special mixes like that, I typically use just normal potting soil organic preferably when I can find it at my local Lowes or Home Depot. I typically start feeding at half strength on the 2nd watering and am up to full strength by the end of week 2 using a veg fert of 5-1-1. 40 CM's for T-5's sounds about right hopefully they'll start thickening up now. When you transplant them to bigger pots you can bury some of that stretched out stem to kind of make them shorter again. The cold floor could have kept them from taking up much in the way of nutrients and that plus the extra time under a weak light might explain why they seem under developed so now that you've corrected those things hopefully things will look better and hopefully any you were worried about will start getting better. Cannabis can survive pretty cold temps 10 C or above.

Below is what my plants typically look like when they're at the point in time you say yours are, just for comparison:

Wow very interesting, T8s only. People underestimate T8s. How many bulbs did you use and were they 4 ft bulbs? How close did you keep the bulbs to the top of the plants? Hempcat, you say you flowered under T8s too? Are those seed plants or cuttings/? I hope you don't mind me asking?

 

[HempKat]

Wow very interesting, T8s only. People underestimate T8s. How many bulbs did you use and were they 4 ft bulbs? How close did you keep the bulbs to the top of the plants? Hempcat, you say you flowered under T8s too? Are those seed plants or cuttings/? I hope you don't mind me asking?

No I never flowered under T-8's. For flowering it was a 1000W HPS HID. The T-8's were mainly where I kept my moms when I had them (usually under a separate set of T-8s) and then I would also keep clones and seedlings under T-8's usually about a month before the grow room would open up and then I would put them under a 1000W MH HID for about a month and then switch to the HPS and 12/12 for all of flower (except one grow where I tried running the HPS and MH together for all of flower but that proved to be too costly to make it worth the extra growth.) Wait I need to take something back, I did flower under the T-8's a couple of times but only when I was making seeds. Then it was worth it to keep the plants relatively small or I would have more seeds then I wanted. Plus doing it that way I could still have females flowering in the other room away from any pollen. Also for what it's worth I did do a couple of grows using t-12's (the typical size flouro tube you find in schools and offices and they worked reasonably well in a similar set up but it just used slightly more electricity.

The T8-s I usually kept about 6 inches above the plants although sometimes the plants reduced that to 4 inches before I got around to raising them back to 6 inches. They were 4 foot T-8's mounted into two fixtures each holding two T-8's and I almost always used the cool white versions of the T-8 bulbs. These fixtures were mounted to a 2 foot by 4 foot piece of panel board wrapped in Mylar. The fixtures being 4 foot long were of course mounted longways on the panel about a foot apart and then on top of the panel I had four hooks attached to four chains which attached to 4 more hooks above in the ceiling where I would adjust how low the chains hung to adjust the height. The T-8s were 40 watts each for a total of 160 watts suspended above a two foot by four foot table also wrapped in Mylar. The table would be up against a fixed wall also covered in Mylar and then on the access side I had another Mylar wrapped panel in a vertical mounted position standing on two legs I crafted out of 2x4's making a T shape (the top of the T shape being the foot of the legs) This essentially gave me a Mylar box with one side I could easily move out of the way to get to the plants. The two ends of the box remained open with a fan at one end blowing thru the box and out the other end. The plants I grew in these boxes would be about 2 feet tall when I moved them into the main grow room/flowering room where they got exposed to the MH for about 2 weeks which would bring them up to about 3 - 4 feet tall and much bushier. Then I would switch to the HPS and 12/12 and by the end of stretch they would be about 6 to 7 feet tall and remain that way until harvest more of less.

 

[Teepi]

You could bury it all the way up to the first set of leaves if you wanted to but I would say try to keep the soil about an inch below the first set of leaves. Also just so you're aware any damage that has happened to the leaves from nutrient deficiency, ph imbalance, etc. generally will remain forever present on the leaves that were damaged. So don't judge your plants by those leave but rather by any new growth. Also while 40 cms is about normal you could probably get by dropping that down to do or maybe even 25 if you wanted to. With the plants in the picture above I had those under T-8 Fluoros (which usually run a bit warmer then T-5s) and I kept them at about 20cms above the tops of the plants which is why the spacing between the branches is fairly tight. Plants usually stretch when they're not getting good strong light at their tops but the sense there is stronger light a little higher up.. Now that you have a heater in the room though you'll want to keep a close eye on how warm it is at the tops of the plants. If you decide to try lowering the lights and it gets much above the temps they're at now you might want to lower the heat some.

Ok thanks for info again.

I know that the damage will stay on leaves mostly, some smaller ones might go away. I used to grow some like 11-12 years ago with 400w hps in a closet with nothing but light, 1 fan, and water + nutes. They grew just fine like that, no problems really. Now that Im growing again with different stuff, and better setup, things haven't taken off well, but Imma sort it all out and get better results.

And to clarify things, this T5 aint gonna be their last light, no no no. I have this plan in my mind.

Tent #1 60x60x100 tent, that will be tent for seedlings/clones with T5 light. I also have smaller light for seeds and clones to start growing, like 1-2 weeks of growing before going under T5, and this small light i upgraded couple days ago so I wouln't have the problem of stretching too much. from here, once they've grown enough to take on LED, they move to...

Tent #2 80x80x180, tent that will have LED, which will be enough to get them up to flowering period, when they move to...

Tent #3 100x100x200 with 300w LED, which eventually will be just for flowering period. So plan is to have last tent in flowering period at all times, except for the period plants needs to dry, I will be keeping plants drying up in this tent with exhaust fan+filter.

So yeah, I know my basics about growing, ie too much light=growing tight, too little light=stretching like mine just did. I just returned to growing, so I need to get up to speed with these set of lights. Feels totally different with HPS, feels like you don't need to do much with HPS, but these T5's and LED's... You really need to pay attention more, like lights are not heating up as much, so you need to get your heat from somewhere else. More to look for imo with T5's and LED's.

I will be keeping eye on temps, of course. So far it has been looking good, temp stays basically at the same level, fans will do their job of moving air around. Even with the small ones my fan is set to blow on to wall, that spreads the wind downwards to plants, so they are constantly moving for stimulating stems and keeping the air flow. I also have exhaust fan ready, if I ever need to use it in that tent, but I will be avoiding it as long as I can. Even set my heater on timer, so it's not heating up at all times, there's 30 min cooldowns, which doesn't even lower the temp inside tents, just outside tents where temp goes down just a bit.

So overall, things are starting to look a lot better now that I got my setup basically complete, few little things still to do, like sealing my bigger tent with duct tape. Few spots that clearly needs duct tape, as there's light leakage a bit.

 

[Creeperpark]

No I never flowered under T-8's. For flowering it was a 1000W HPS HID. The T-8's were mainly where I kept my moms when I had them (usually under a separate set of T-8s) and then I would also keep clones and seedlings under T-8's usually about a month before the grow room would open up and then I would put them under a 1000W MH HID for about a month and then switch to the HPS and 12/12 for all of flower (except one grow where I tried running the HPS and MH together for all of flower but that proved to be too costly to make it worth the extra growth.) Wait I need to take something back, I did flower under the T-8's a couple of times but only when I was making seeds. Then it was worth it to keep the plants relatively small or I would have more seeds then I wanted. Plus doing it that way I could still have females flowering in the other room away from any pollen. Also for what it's worth I did do a couple of grows using t-12's (the typical size flouro tube you find in schools and offices and they worked reasonably well in a similar set up but it just used slightly more electricity.

The T8-s I usually kept about 6 inches above the plants although sometimes the plants reduced that to 4 inches before I got around to raising them back to 6 inches. They were 4 foot T-8's mounted into two fixtures each holding two T-8's and I almost always used the cool white versions of the T-8 bulbs. These fixtures were mounted to a 2 foot by 4 foot piece of panel board wrapped in Mylar. The fixtures being 4 foot long were of course mounted longways on the panel about a foot apart and then on top of the panel I had four hooks attached to four chains which attached to 4 more hooks above in the ceiling where I would adjust how low the chains hung to adjust the height. The T-8s were 40 watts each for a total of 160 watts suspended above a two foot by four foot table also wrapped in Mylar. The table would be up against a fixed wall also covered in Mylar and then on the access side I had another Mylar wrapped panel in a vertical mounted position standing on two legs I crafted out of 2x4's making a T shape (the top of the T shape being the foot of the legs) This essentially gave me a Mylar box with one side I could easily move out of the way to get to the plants. The two ends of the box remained open with a fan at one end blowing thru the box and out the other end. The plants I grew in these boxes would be about 2 feet tall when I moved them into the main grow room/flowering room where they got exposed to the MH for about 2 weeks which would bring them up to about 3 - 4 feet tall and much bushier. Then I would switch to the HPS and 12/12 and by the end of stretch they would be about 6 to 7 feet tall and remain that way until harvest more of less.

That is so cool Hempcat, thank you for sharing your hard work with me.

 

[HempKat]

Ok thanks for info again.

I know that the damage will stay on leaves mostly, some smaller ones might go away. I used to grow some like 11-12 years ago with 400w hps in a closet with nothing but light, 1 fan, and water + nutes. They grew just fine like that, no problems really. Now that Im growing again with different stuff, and better setup, things haven't taken off well, but Imma sort it all out and get better results.

And to clarify things, this T5 aint gonna be their last light, no no no. I have this plan in my mind.

Tent #1 60x60x100 tent, that will be tent for seedlings/clones with T5 light. I also have smaller light for seeds and clones to start growing, like 1-2 weeks of growing before going under T5, and this small light i upgraded couple days ago so I wouln't have the problem of stretching too much. from here, once they've grown enough to take on LED, they move to...

Tent #2 80x80x180, tent that will have LED, which will be enough to get them up to flowering period, when they move to...

Tent #3 100x100x200 with 300w LED, which eventually will be just for flowering period. So plan is to have last tent in flowering period at all times, except for the period plants needs to dry, I will be keeping plants drying up in this tent with exhaust fan+filter.

So yeah, I know my basics about growing, ie too much light=growing tight, too little light=stretching like mine just did. I just returned to growing, so I need to get up to speed with these set of lights. Feels totally different with HPS, feels like you don't need to do much with HPS, but these T5's and LED's... You really need to pay attention more, like lights are not heating up as much, so you need to get your heat from somewhere else. More to look for imo with T5's and LED's.

I will be keeping eye on temps, of course. So far it has been looking good, temp stays basically at the same level, fans will do their job of moving air around. Even with the small ones my fan is set to blow on to wall, that spreads the wind downwards to plants, so they are constantly moving for stimulating stems and keeping the air flow. I also have exhaust fan ready, if I ever need to use it in that tent, but I will be avoiding it as long as I can. Even set my heater on timer, so it's not heating up at all times, there's 30 min cooldowns, which doesn't even lower the temp inside tents, just outside tents where temp goes down just a bit.

So overall, things are starting to look a lot better now that I got my setup basically complete, few little things still to do, like sealing my bigger tent with duct tape. Few spots that clearly needs duct tape, as there's light leakage a bit.

Yeah I didn't expect the T-5's to be your flowering light although if you were growing just for personal stash there are ways using enough T-5 that you can get a reasonably decent yield for an individual. I can't remember for sure what it was called but there used to be a grow setup you could buy (I think it was called a phototron) that was basically an 8 sided grow booth with 8 single 4 foot T-12s mounted vertically in an octagonal shape around a platform big enough for one good sized plant. I only saw them advertised in magazines and they were pretty expensive so I never saw anyone grow a plant in one but I bet with 8 40 W T-12'a running 4 feet vertically you could probably get a reasonable harvest out of one plant just using T-12s. But no I figured at some point you would put them under LED's. Now I myself have yet to work with LEDs but I hope to some day. However I've been looking at others using them and what I am understanding is while they are much cooler then HIDs they still have intensity similar to a HID and as such you have to resist the temptation to move them much closer because they are closer because even though the heat won't burn the plants the intensity can and will.

 

[HempKat]

That is so cool Hempcat, thank you for sharing your hard work with me.

No problem. I wish I still had my gallery here then I could have given you some pictures to go along with the words. Although I'm no carpenter so it looked fairly juryrigged but it got the job done.

 

[Teepi]

Yeah I didn't expect the T-5's to be your flowering light although if you were growing just for personal stash there are ways using enough T-5 that you can get a reasonably decent yield for an individual. I can't remember for sure what it was called but there used to be a grow setup you could buy (I think it was called a phototron) that was basically an 8 sided grow booth with 8 single 4 foot T-12s mounted vertically in an octagonal shape around a platform big enough for one good sized plant. I only saw them advertised in magazines and they were pretty expensive so I never saw anyone grow a plant in one but I bet with 8 40 W T-12'a running 4 feet vertically you could probably get a reasonable harvest out of one plant just using T-12s. But no I figured at some point you would put them under LED's. Now I myself have yet to work with LEDs but I hope to some day. However I've been looking at others using them and what I am understanding is while they are much cooler then HIDs they still have intensity similar to a HID and as such you have to resist the temptation to move them much closer because they are closer because even though the heat won't burn the plants the intensity can and will.

First time LED here aswell, luckily I have a friend who has been growing with LED for 2 years now, so I can always get some help from him aswell. And yeah, he told you can't really put LED close to plants, because the light intensity will burn the plants, not the heat. So from my understanding, the distance is still about same as with HPS or other similar lights that will actually heat up.
But LED's apparently can give you some solid yield, friend is getting like 1,8g per watt, but can be reached up to 2,5g per watt apparently. HPS wont give ya 1,8g per watt that easily afaik.

My LED does have dimmer, at 25, 50, 75 and 100%, which is good thing to have.

Oh yeah, I've seen at first hand, what LED can do to your plants if too close. When I went to store buy my stuff, the store dudes told me they will germinate seeds for customers, and showed me their setup. Well they had the same LED than I have, they kept it at 100% like 10cm off the seedlings, they were all dry and yellow.

Flowering with T5's? Sure it's possible, but yeah maybe not best option, but doable if you just grow for yourself, and don't need big yields. It's weed... it grows almost anywhere.

Also, as my ladies just woke up for an hour, before they go back to sleep for 5,5 hours, I checked on them. Looking alive, and looks like even those sunleaves that took heavy damage and are already falling off, they have new stems starting to grow. Tops looks healthy, so they did survive my fuck ups, and will grow again. My light goes like this, 12 hours on, 5,5 hours off, 1 hour on, 5,5 hours off, instead of the typical 18/6. Flowering will be like 13/11 instead of 12/12. This works well, and saves up on electricity a bit.

 

[HempKat]

First time LED here aswell, luckily I have a friend who has been growing with LED for 2 years now, so I can always get some help from him aswell. And yeah, he told you can't really put LED close to plants, because the light intensity will burn the plants, not the heat. So from my understanding, the distance is still about same as with HPS or other similar lights that will actually heat up.
But LED's apparently can give you some solid yield, friend is getting like 1,8g per watt, but can be reached up to 2,5g per watt apparently. HPS wont give ya 1,8g per watt that easily afaik.

My LED does have dimmer, at 25, 50, 75 and 100%, which is good thing to have.

Oh yeah, I've seen at first hand, what LED can do to your plants if too close. When I went to store buy my stuff, the store dudes told me they will germinate seeds for customers, and showed me their setup. Well they had the same LED than I have, they kept it at 100% like 10cm off the seedlings, they were all dry and yellow.

Flowering with T5's? Sure it's possible, but yeah maybe not best option, but doable if you just grow for yourself, and don't need big yields. It's weed... it grows almost anywhere.

Also, as my ladies just woke up for an hour, before they go back to sleep for 5,5 hours, I checked on them. Looking alive, and looks like even those sunleaves that took heavy damage and are already falling off, they have new stems starting to grow. Tops looks healthy, so they did survive my fuck ups, and will grow again. My light goes like this, 12 hours on, 5,5 hours off, 1 hour on, 5,5 hours off, instead of the typical 18/6. Flowering will be like 13/11 instead of 12/12. This works well, and saves up on electricity a bit.

Have you used that light cycle before to know it works? I ask because I've heard of people using 13/11 and having trouble getting them to finish. Also I'm not getting how 13/11 saves a little electricity over 12/12, your running the light an extra hour and the biggest expenditure for any light is from when it first cuts on to when it settles at full output. Now granted with LED's that should still be nominal but I just don't see where it adds up to a savings. I mean if it was 13 off and 11 on I could see that saving money and that's what usually gets suggested to get tough plants to finish.

 

[Teepi]

Have you used that light cycle before to know it works? I ask because I've heard of people using 13/11 and having trouble getting them to finish. Also I'm not getting how 13/11 saves a little electricity over 12/12, your running the light an extra hour and the biggest expenditure for any light is from when it first cuts on to when it settles at full output. Now granted with LED's that should still be nominal but I just don't see where it adds up to a savings. I mean if it was 13 off and 11 on I could see that saving money and that's what usually gets suggested to get tough plants to finish.

It is 13 hours off, 11 on.

https://www.growweedeasy.com/12-1-lighting-method You can read more from here, and yes my friend is using this with good results. At least I'm gonna try this now. Of course if I ever feel like going back to typical 18/6 and 12/12, I will. But I do trust my friend when he says this works, I've seen and tasted his buds, they be fantastic!