Hey,what's your light schedule mate?Does she get any sleep?
Maybe light too close too?Some foliar epsom might helped,too.
You are in grow, so need more than 18 hours of light. 20 is about the sweet spot, but while a rest might make them look better, it's just helping with the symptoms, not the cause
I didn't want to comment as while the plants look light green, so do the seedlings. I can't see how much of this is camera deficiency. An overall yellowing of a plant points towards sulphur. Usually the plant remains in shape but new growth can be a bit twisty. Pretty much the picture we see here. My last sulphur problem was coming overnight and seemed linked to high root EC and low RH. Spraying just water on them was as useful as spraying epsom salts. While thought of as Mg, it actually contains more sulphur.
As this is some sort of compost grow, I don't see why any feed would be needed at this time. Certainly not a full dose. You may be acidifying the compost. Sulphur is best absorbed above pH6
Don't take my word for it though. I'm just another faceless unqualified voice. Go and look at sulphur pics in one of the sick plants help posts, pinned in the infirmary. I tend to look at the Joe Fresh and Stitch threads.
Oh.. I wrote this yesterday and fell to sleep..
Thank you very much for helping me. I'll go to the hydro shop today to get sulfur. The humidity in my tent ranges from 40% to 60%. And this is not a compost grow it is coco coir and promix
Seems systemic. Did you check soil and water pH, as well? Usually sulphur or other deficiencies you see on some but not all leaves or entire plant. Just our experience.
1. What is the medium?As you can see below my Sour 60 are starting to turn yellow. Not sure how well it shows in the pic but believe me it is.
For nutrients I'm feeding max dosage of BioThrive Gro (4 tsp) and Calmag+ (2 tsp)
Any advise is greatly appreciated! Have a nice day.
How did I miss this. Agreed! I no longer grow autos but yes 20 is the sweet spot (so I've been told). I went with an 18/6 because when I grew them, it was alongside photo period plants. The gist of my post was to start with the basics, before delving in to the chemicals deficiency or over supply. For example, he also needs to get his RH in check (40-60%). VPD plays a large role as you know. There might be a little "winging it" there. Therefore it becomes very hard to put a finger on it (many variables). As others have said, you need the tools to do a good job. A doctor without a stethoscope can't diagnose s.... I do know one thing, once I got my VPD dialed in (I am quite anal about it) I stopped seeing deficiencies. I also changed my nute line and I have never looked back. TBS, I gave all my auto seeds away.You are in grow, so need more than 18 hours of light. 20 is about the sweet spot, but while a rest might make them look better, it's just helping with the symptoms, not the cause
I didn't want to comment as while the plants look light green, so do the seedlings. I can't see how much of this is camera deficiency. An overall yellowing of a plant points towards sulphur. Usually the plant remains in shape but new growth can be a bit twisty. Pretty much the picture we see here. My last sulphur problem was coming overnight and seemed linked to high root EC and low RH. Spraying just water on them was as useful as spraying epsom salts. While thought of as Mg, it actually contains more sulphur.
As this is some sort of compost grow, I don't see why any feed would be needed at this time. Certainly not a full dose. You may be acidifying the compost. Sulphur is best absorbed above pH6
Don't take my word for it though. I'm just another faceless unqualified voice. Go and look at sulphur pics in one of the sick plants help posts, pinned in the infirmary. I tend to look at the Joe Fresh and Stitch threads.
Oh.. I wrote this yesterday and fell to sleep..