Shit, I'm screwed, I separated my collar bone at Mavericks yesterday. In f'ing pain!
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Mavs in July..? Cute.. Slip on a Beach Rock..? Just "having us on," I guess....
Weather has been great, and that;s good for the "Hobby..!"
But the same winds that blow-away the Marine Layer have been Blowing-OUT the Surf...
Been Poor surf for 3 months in this part of the County. I usually love this one particular beach at a rivermouth at this time of year, but it has been unsurfable... Hope we have a nice August / Sept / Oct.
Just 'Totin That Bale" until then... It's All Good.
Peace...
Weather has been great, and that;s good for the "Hobby..!"
But the same winds that blow-away the Marine Layer have been Blowing-OUT the Surf...
Been Poor surf for 3 months in this part of the County. I usually love this one particular beach at a rivermouth at this time of year, but it has been unsurfable... Hope we have a nice August / Sept / Oct.
Just 'Totin That Bale" until then... It's All Good.
Peace...
EverLast
Active member
my friend was telling me of a place up near shelter cove (maybe?) in Humboldt where its necessary to hike in about 5 miles for a real sweet point break. Camping and surfing with small crowds=epic. Anyone been?
In reply : I am sure there are spots like that....! No need to go through all that, unless that is your desire. Most of the North Coast is uncrowded except in a few places. Secret or semi-secret spots exist for the adventurous.. It only gets tricky when One goes out in water alone - in Shark Country - not a great idea, but if the waves are FIRING, and no one is nearby. A dilemma. Go with Yr Gut. Catch a few and get out. As long as the Swells keep coming, I am cool. Feel like you beat nature one more time.
If there are long lulls between sets, I figure it ain't worth it. The Noggin' Starts thinking too much about, "Am I being Stalked right now..?"
A Downward spiral, unless waves appear to ride - then it's Paddle back out for more as soon as ya can..!
(That bowl smoked in the parking lot while Donning the Wettie may be responsible for the willies, but that's part of the whole experience.! )
FINALLY, the season changed. Glassy surfaces. I need to harvest and dry before I take the time to go. Yesterday was hard - The Water Super-Alluring... Can hear the waves at Home., as they torment me. haha.
But responsibilities are just that. The Ocean will probably still be there in 2 weeks. One can only hope.
Peace - ..!!!
If there are long lulls between sets, I figure it ain't worth it. The Noggin' Starts thinking too much about, "Am I being Stalked right now..?"
A Downward spiral, unless waves appear to ride - then it's Paddle back out for more as soon as ya can..!
(That bowl smoked in the parking lot while Donning the Wettie may be responsible for the willies, but that's part of the whole experience.! )
FINALLY, the season changed. Glassy surfaces. I need to harvest and dry before I take the time to go. Yesterday was hard - The Water Super-Alluring... Can hear the waves at Home., as they torment me. haha.
But responsibilities are just that. The Ocean will probably still be there in 2 weeks. One can only hope.
Peace - ..!!!
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First week of October has been great at OBSF
chest-slightly overhead, glassy mornings..occasionally staying glass all day. super super fun stuff, but been crowded as everyones been itching to surf since april. Suspended license has me confined to the city till December, but it could be worse
chest-slightly overhead, glassy mornings..occasionally staying glass all day. super super fun stuff, but been crowded as everyones been itching to surf since april. Suspended license has me confined to the city till December, but it could be worse
Nice to hear you got some waves, hashcat!
I surfed Friday evening, twice on Saturday, and once yesterday. My arms are tired, but I got a ton of waves over the last few days. Yesterday morning was the best day, imho. Not as lully with a bit more push to it, but it was zoo'd out with a bunch of kooks sitting on the inside.
I was waiting for the larger sets on the outside all by myself. Caught three decent head high-ish waves in a row all the way to the beach. Thankfully, I managed not to run anyone over that was sitting on the inside.
They need to teach a surf etiquette course online or something. When you're trying to get out of the way of an oncoming surfer, you don't paddle towards the shoulder, you paddle toward the part of the wave that has already broken! I had to school a couple guys who clearly had no business being out there with that crowd. They could wind up getting hurt or hurting someone else or both.
Feels good to get some quality waves under my belt...FINALLY. It's been a long, boring summer, but the waves are here now and most of my plants have been harvested, so I'm all clear to go surf now.
HB.
I surfed Friday evening, twice on Saturday, and once yesterday. My arms are tired, but I got a ton of waves over the last few days. Yesterday morning was the best day, imho. Not as lully with a bit more push to it, but it was zoo'd out with a bunch of kooks sitting on the inside.
I was waiting for the larger sets on the outside all by myself. Caught three decent head high-ish waves in a row all the way to the beach. Thankfully, I managed not to run anyone over that was sitting on the inside.
They need to teach a surf etiquette course online or something. When you're trying to get out of the way of an oncoming surfer, you don't paddle towards the shoulder, you paddle toward the part of the wave that has already broken! I had to school a couple guys who clearly had no business being out there with that crowd. They could wind up getting hurt or hurting someone else or both.
Feels good to get some quality waves under my belt...FINALLY. It's been a long, boring summer, but the waves are here now and most of my plants have been harvested, so I'm all clear to go surf now.
HB.
Some of the best times of my life have been spent on a piece of plastic bobbing up and down with the swells on the east coast.
Never got very good, but then again, it never bothered me much...not being very good. Being out there was always good enough for me.
The pelicans doing their low level passes. The porpoises / dolphins that ALWAYS seemed so much bigger out there than they ever appeared to be on the TV, or in the movies. The occasional whale. The shark sightings, rare, despite the fact that those dudes were indeed out there with us somewhere, and somewhere close.
The old hippie looking dude with the long board, getting tubes on like 2 foot waves. The awesome kids who absolutely THRASHED the waves the way only a kid can. The dude from Texas who surfed wearing a freaking cowboy hat. The lovely, lovely ladies on the beach who appreciated a toned and tanned body.
Good times.
Much love and respect for mother ocean.
Never got very good, but then again, it never bothered me much...not being very good. Being out there was always good enough for me.
The pelicans doing their low level passes. The porpoises / dolphins that ALWAYS seemed so much bigger out there than they ever appeared to be on the TV, or in the movies. The occasional whale. The shark sightings, rare, despite the fact that those dudes were indeed out there with us somewhere, and somewhere close.
The old hippie looking dude with the long board, getting tubes on like 2 foot waves. The awesome kids who absolutely THRASHED the waves the way only a kid can. The dude from Texas who surfed wearing a freaking cowboy hat. The lovely, lovely ladies on the beach who appreciated a toned and tanned body.
Good times.
Much love and respect for mother ocean.
Hope someone posts a vid of it on youtube...
LMAO for real man!!!!
So check this out...
Ive actually had a few instances where I was the guy inside trying to dodge the rider on the wave. Like any respectful surfer, I paddle to the whitewater, and some people actually get mad at you for that!!! I think they are so use to people going over the shoulder, that they dont know how to react to someone who is crossing their path to take the wave on the head (Im leaving the shoulder open for you buddy...race it!!!)
uggghh
You Guys got it.. Paddle into the Whitewater, not to ruin someone;s ride.
Besides, you just caught one, or else you;d not be paddling back out...! Yeah, folks always seem to take the easy way out, paddle over the shoulder, and take a chance on ruining the Rider;s ride.
Way to Go Humph...! GEEV 'UM Braddah.>!! As they say in Da Islands.
Calcio.. Shaka Brah..! Most likely we will see it all on Youtube in a day or two. Or Surfline, with their awful download speed, can;t watch their videos.
Besides, you just caught one, or else you;d not be paddling back out...! Yeah, folks always seem to take the easy way out, paddle over the shoulder, and take a chance on ruining the Rider;s ride.
Way to Go Humph...! GEEV 'UM Braddah.>!! As they say in Da Islands.
Calcio.. Shaka Brah..! Most likely we will see it all on Youtube in a day or two. Or Surfline, with their awful download speed, can;t watch their videos.
Checked surfline today, Jaws and Pipeline are Epic...
Comedians, you two are, made me laugh.
I was working with a buddy doing some end reel, and gereral area shots with a Phantom flex camera. And i got pinned between my buddy's long board and a waverunner
Got the two pins surgically removed last tuesday. and the Dotor has cleared me to return in a month or two.
Anyone see the movie yet, a friend is bringing me a copy this weekend.
Haven't seen it. Like many surf movies, I expect it to be cheesy. But entertaining.
I was living near HMB during the time Jay and Mark Foo passed. Surfing Ross's not Mavs. I feel as if it is all a part of all the Coastside Surfers' History because we were very aware of the happenings in that small area. The whole scene was micro back then. Centered on Pacifica at the time, mostly. Crowds were minimal on weekdays. Now, people surf areas that no one ever used to S of HMB. (I sometimes did, must admit - until I saw the FACE of a 16-foot-Man-in-the-Grey-Suit 5 feet away at 6am - all alone out there. No more sharky beaches solo at dawn..!) Now, these places can be crowded, even when the surf is pekid.
When FooDog Passed that was bizarre. Wasn't even that big of a day. He had just got off a plane, and straight into moderate-sized Mavs. Not a great idea, I guess.
Will see the flick though, sure there will be some good surfing footage. Mavs is a very exciting wave to watch.
SHAKA..!
I was living near HMB during the time Jay and Mark Foo passed. Surfing Ross's not Mavs. I feel as if it is all a part of all the Coastside Surfers' History because we were very aware of the happenings in that small area. The whole scene was micro back then. Centered on Pacifica at the time, mostly. Crowds were minimal on weekdays. Now, people surf areas that no one ever used to S of HMB. (I sometimes did, must admit - until I saw the FACE of a 16-foot-Man-in-the-Grey-Suit 5 feet away at 6am - all alone out there. No more sharky beaches solo at dawn..!) Now, these places can be crowded, even when the surf is pekid.
When FooDog Passed that was bizarre. Wasn't even that big of a day. He had just got off a plane, and straight into moderate-sized Mavs. Not a great idea, I guess.
Will see the flick though, sure there will be some good surfing footage. Mavs is a very exciting wave to watch.
SHAKA..!
