REALSTYLES DIY CXB3590 TUTORIAL

[JinkysOars]

growmau5 I have checked the internal dimmers both of which were running at 98-100%

Do I want to keep them running at the output?

Ok i've until now been ignorant to the fact the A driver has the option to dim to 50% so my question now is should I dim as opposed to running 100%? How does dimming vs running 100% at greater distances pan out?
I know there be many variables in setups but i'm finding that there's an abundance of info on building these lights while how best to utilise them finished builds all still seems a little bit sketchy! If someone an experienced cob led grower could kindly draw up some thing like an 12 week chart charting how you are getting the most from their setups throughout their growing cycle detailing details such as hanging heights, dimming settings etc now that really would be golden!

Thanks!

 

[Koondense]

I dim my lights sometimes, only because of adjusting light levels for the plant tops.
I agree with Growmau5(hi buddy, cheers for all the YT videos!), around 16" would be good, without reflectors around 12"(i don't use reflectors) at max current of 1400mA.

Sorry to hear of your yield troubles, i can guarantee your next run will be much much better if you do it properly. I got around 1,75g/W on my first run ever and it was not an optimal grow.
I think you don't need to dim your lights if you have an even canopy.

 

[JinkysOars]

So we're talking 12-16" start to finish without out dimming?

Thanks!

 

[growmau5]

@koondense Cheers brother, thanks for checking out my vids. And your advise is spot on about the heights. 1.75gpw is fantastic!!!

@JinkysOars Thanks for answering all of those questions. By now you figured out the little black cap over the dimmer on 'a' version meanwells. Since you are maxed on that pot, you will now be getting 104% current output out of that driver (~1450ma)
Firstly, your build looks excellent, the spacing, configuration, and components are exactly what I would recommend & use.
When discussing light to canopy heights and dimming, I like to work with the Laws of Physics rather than try to fight them. let me explain.

The Inverse Square Law:: in relation to grow lights states (simplified) that Light Intensity = 1/distance2 So for every time you raise the light, your PPFD decreases exponentially. The beauty of diy builds is that we can & should dim our lights rather than raise them to reduce light levels.
Example: you pull 400w at the wall to deliver 900PPFD when the light is around 12" away from the plants, but you wish to adjust the light delivered to the plants:

a)you can raise the light 6-8" or so if you wish to deliver 600ppfd & still pull 400w at the wall
b)you dim the lights to 66% while remaining at 12" from canopy. you deliver the same 600PPFD while only pulling 265w at the wall.
-option a & b have the same result and effect to the plants in your situation because your DIY build is perfectly configured and spread for your 3x3 grow space.

 

[Roasty McToasty]

@koondense Cheers brother, thanks for checking out my vids. And your advise is spot on about the heights. 1.75gpw is fantastic!!!

@JinkysOars Thanks for answering all of those questions. By now you figured out the little black cap over the dimmer on 'a' version meanwells. Since you are maxed on that pot, you will now be getting 104% current output out of that driver (~1450ma)
Firstly, your build looks excellent, the spacing, configuration, and components are exactly what I would recommend & use.
When discussing light to canopy heights and dimming, I like to work with the Laws of Physics rather than try to fight them. let me explain.

The Inverse Square Law:: in relation to grow lights states (simplified) that Light Intensity = 1/distance2 So for every time you raise the light, your PPFD decreases exponentially. The beauty of diy builds is that we can & should dim our lights rather than raise them to reduce light levels.
Example: you pull 400w at the wall to deliver 900PPFD when the light is around 12" away from the plants, but you wish to adjust the light delivered to the plants:

a)you can raise the light 6-8" or so if you wish to deliver 600ppfd & still pull 400w at the wall
b)you dim the lights to 66% while remaining at 12" from canopy. you deliver the same 600PPFD while only pulling 265w at the wall.
-option a & b have the same result and effect to the plants in your situation because your DIY build is perfectly configured and spread for your 3x3 grow space.

Thanks for that info Growmau5. I'm going to lower my light much closer and dim more. Just a little worried about frying my babies. But i can dim to 10%, just have to dial it in somehow.

 

[growmau5]

@JinkysOars Diving further into your setup:
( 8 ) cxb3590 36v 3500k CD bin @ 1450ma (assuming maxed 'a' version driver)
Fv : 34.9v x 1.450a = 50.6 watts per cob x 8 = 404.85watts
404.85watts x 56% efficient =226.7 PARwatts
226.7 PARwatts x 90% (10% loss in photons due to walls, reflectors etc)=204.3 PARw
204.3 PARw x 4.67 (specific QER for that light source) 952.8 µmol/s
952.8µmol/s divided by your space in meters (3x3=0.836127m2) 1139.56 PPFD

your current cob light is equivalent to a brand new (clean glass, new bulb) 596.5watt HPS. So as far as your yield is concerned;
I would expect 1lb to 1.15 lbs for a 596.5w HPS <OR>
1.3 lbs for your 404.85 watt cob light. in this 3x3 space.
strain dependent of course

I consider 1140 PPFD to be a lot of light. (reference attachment for diminishing returns: PPFD vs Photosynthetic rate))

 

[growmau5]

@JinkyOars So what's the take away? and why is this the 3rd post to answer a simple question: How far should my DIY3590 COB light be from my plants?

I wanted to explain why before recommending what to do.
If I had your setup (400w 3590) in your space (3x3). I would do the following:

-aggressive veg 500-800 PPF which would be either:
-light maxed @ 400w 24" from the canopy <or>
-light dimmed to 66% 16" from the canopy
-flip 12/12 I find it imperative to deliver the maximum PPF possible at this stage to reduce stretch as much as possible.
-16" from canopy (since you have LEDIL refl) light bumped up to 80-90%
-continue to raise the light as the plants grow rather than setting the light very high and allowing the plants to grow closer to it.

Take all of this advice with a grain of salt because different strains can tolerate drastically different light levels. e.g.
- an alien blues may only be able to tolerate 1100 PPF max before it bleaches
- a given Tangie may be able to tolerate 2000 PPF without slowing down or burning.

you almost have to bleach your strains, or almost bleach them one time, to see what they will handle.

cheers
ps: here is a tangie one inch from the lens, zero bleaching or burning.

 

[JinkysOars]

@JinkyOars So what's the take away? and why is this the 3rd post to answer a simple question: How far should my DIY3590 COB light be from my plants?

I wanted to explain why before recommending what to do.
If I had your setup (400w 3590) in your space (3x3). I would do the following:

-aggressive veg 500-800 PPF which would be either:
-light maxed @ 400w 24" from the canopy <or>
-light dimmed to 66% 16" from the canopy
-flip 12/12 I find it imperative to deliver the maximum PPF possible at this stage to reduce stretch as much as possible.
-16" from canopy (since you have LEDIL refl) light bumped up to 80-90%
-continue to raise the light as the plants grow rather than setting the light very high and allowing the plants to grow closer to it.

Take all of this advice with a grain of salt because different strains can tolerate drastically different light levels. e.g.
- an alien blues may only be able to tolerate 1100 PPF max before it bleaches
- a given Tangie may be able to tolerate 2000 PPF without slowing down or burning.

you almost have to bleach your strains, or almost bleach them one time, to see what they will handle.

cheers
ps: here is a tangie one inch from the lens, zero bleaching or burning.

Thankyou kind sir for taking the time to help me understand what I need to do to get the best from my build! I think i'm beginning to get a clearer picture now! So it would appear i've not been nearly aggresive enough with the light! You've now given me a good starting point to work from! Once again it is very much appreciated.

 

[woolybear]

here's my 2nd one, using the angelina reflectors and lenses. Note i had to dremel down the adapter ring to make it flush

 

[rshackleferd]

This is absolutely fantastic

 

[woolybear]

@JinkysOars Diving further into your setup:
( 8 ) cxb3590 36v 3500k CD bin @ 1450ma (assuming maxed 'a' version driver)
Fv : 34.9v x 1.450a = 50.6 watts per cob x 8 = 404.85watts
404.85watts x 56% efficient =226.7 PARwatts
226.7 PARwatts x 90% (10% loss in photons due to walls, reflectors etc)=204.3 PARw
204.3 PARw x 4.67 (specific QER for that light source) 952.8 µmol/s
952.8µmol/s divided by your space in meters (3x3=0.836127m2) 1139.56 PPFD

your current cob light is equivalent to a brand new (clean glass, new bulb) 596.5watt HPS. So as far as your yield is concerned;
I would expect 1lb to 1.15 lbs for a 596.5w HPS <OR>
1.3 lbs for your 404.85 watt cob light. in this 3x3 space.
strain dependent of course

I consider 1140 PPFD to be a lot of light. (reference attachment for diminishing returns: PPFD vs Photosynthetic rate))

thank u gw5 for saving me the time for looking this up!

 

[Chusmi]

Thanks to all the people who made this thread


Specially @REALSTYLES for create it.

I'm learning enough to try mi own DIY....
My 1st proyect:
x6 CXB3590 CB 3500K 36v
MW - HLG240H- C1050A. Dimming, 525mA - 1050mA (103W - 210W)

Area 100x52 cm.

Any trouble I can't see?

 

[timmur]

@JinkysOars Diving further into your setup:
( 8 ) cxb3590 36v 3500k CD bin @ 1450ma (assuming maxed 'a' version driver)
Fv : 34.9v x 1.450a = 50.6 watts per cob x 8 = 404.85watts
404.85watts x 56% efficient =226.7 PARwatts
226.7 PARwatts x 90% (10% loss in photons due to walls, reflectors etc)=204.3 PARw
204.3 PARw x 4.67 (specific QER for that light source) 952.8 µmol/s
952.8µmol/s divided by your space in meters (3x3=0.836127m2) 1139.56 PPFD

your current cob light is equivalent to a brand new (clean glass, new bulb) 596.5watt HPS. So as far as your yield is concerned;
I would expect 1lb to 1.15 lbs for a 596.5w HPS <OR>
1.3 lbs for your 404.85 watt cob light. in this 3x3 space.
strain dependent of course

I consider 1140 PPFD to be a lot of light. (reference attachment for diminishing returns: PPFD vs Photosynthetic rate))

Hey grow where did you get the data on the PPFD and photosynthetic rate?

Also in an earlier post you said:

you almost have to bleach your strains, or almost bleach them one time, to see what they will handle.

Don't you think that lighting to the point of bleaching is way too far from the maximum desirable PPFD, especially in light of DLI considerations? I'm wondering if it makes more sense to incrementally increase PPFD while keeping the photoperiod fixed until the plants show signs that they are light saturated (cupping or curling of leaves).

 

[rshackleferd]

If anybody needs help understanding how all this works together in easy to understand laymens term check out this vid;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlM5uvO7sao

 

[JinkysOars]

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to purchase a control knob to replace pot gromit for controlling the onboard dimming of the type A Meanwell drivers? I'm sure i've seen a driver with a control knob in the pot somewhere and was wondered if they could be purchased as it would be a bit tidier than using a screwdriver!

Thanks!

 

[jikko77]

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to purchase a control knob to replace pot gromit for controlling the onboard dimming of the type A Meanwell drivers? I'm sure i've seen a driver with a control knob in the pot somewhere and was wondered if they could be purchased as it would be a bit tidier than using a screwdriver!

Thanks!

would mean open the driver and move out the internal trim, not too hard, but it voids the warranty, if any left.
the esier way is to keep using the screw.

 

[rshackleferd]

Where did you purchase the cobs from RS?

 

[REALSTYLES]

Where did you purchase the cobs from RS?

pm me or get at me on Skype REALSTYLES

 

[iamspuzzum]

You paid $82.08 for a 24" x 10".


Where as RapidLED offers as-is a 5.9" x 10" Aluminum Heat Sink for
$16.00

4 X$16.00 is $64.00 and only slightly smaller, also, they can be purchased individually and they are in effect modular, which allows the builder on a budget the advantage of increasing his set up a little at a time. While this might not seem like value to you, it does seem like value to me, and I would think that others would agree.

Although piecing together smaller pieces works well for you, using 4 6x10" pieces would not work for REALSTYLES' layout.

24" long, with the COBs at the ends set 2" in.. leaving 20" for 5 COBs. If he placed your 6" pieces end to end, he'd wind up having 2 COBs sitting on a split.. 1/2 on each piece of heatsink. That won't work. That's why having a single piece, the length you actually want, is better than multiple smaller pieces.

Also.. although rapid's "as is" page is blank right now, so I can't compare, I have looked at rapid's heatsinks in the past. They weren't as thick for one thing, with fewer fins. Their heat dissipation wasn't as good as heatsinkusa's. This could also come down to the grade of aluminum being used.

Personally.. I'd choose heatsinkusa over rapid any day of the week. The majority of the reef builders use them as well.

 

[Zarbu]

REALSTYLES you my friend are so awesome, if your are ever in my neck of the woods Ive got you covered.

now a question I want anyone and everyone with knowledge to answer.

2 x Meanwell HLG-185-C700B

With 6 x CREE CXB3590 3500K, CD 72V

How many Lumens will this setup produce un dimmed with the 6 crees

and please answer the exact question instead of telling me about PAR and how Lumens don't matter. (im a horticulture consultant with 20 years in the industry)

Thank you