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Get Rid of Fungus Gnats For Good Using Mosquito Dunks

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  • Jeeyah
    replied
    Dunks have not been working for me at all. Over 3 months of these little annoying fucks. I've killed spider mites and aphids. Can't get rid of gnats.

    I will try gnatrol in addition to dunks.

    Leave a comment:


  • yosun
    replied
    get a big potato,cut into 1/2 inch slices,put a slice in every pot that has gnats in the soil,two days latter all larvae gone,if not repeat,put a glass of red wine in your cab/closet/room,all adults will drown themselves..thank me later

    Leave a comment:


  • ThePizzaMan
    replied
    hey guys, this thread is so awesome. Been growing for about 2 years now, and am using coco with perlite. I have been seeing a ton of little black bugs swarming around my lights and in my room...but I didn't really think anything of it. That was like 4 to 6 months ago.

    NOW....I have had a few plants wither and produce almost no flowers...I was thinking it was my interruption in my lights cycle which was approx 4 weeks ago...but it was only for a few days. Most plants were not affected like that, but I did have a few plants that were not producing...and just not healthy looking at all.

    I am pretty sure now that I have a fungus gnat infestation...as they look like tiny little mosquitoes. I am obviously not going to reuse my coco...and I am dead set on gnatrol...so my question is..

    Every single plant in my garden gets gnatrol..regardless of the stage of growth, another words...can I put this stuff in flowering plants(5 weeks or so)....??

    Also...do you recommend sterilizing the grow area...as I grow in tents..? What about the surrounding areas? how would I go about sterilizing the area? Is it even needed with fungus gnats?

    Thanks a bunch

    TPM

    Leave a comment:


  • jumanji2
    replied
    Well, Gnatrol seems to be working. I haven't seen any larvae in the coco in the last few days. The adults are still there though. Hopefully they fuck off lol. They laughed at the dunks however.

    Leave a comment:


  • GeorgeSmiley
    replied
    The only reference to it I found in the product label and msds was this quote

    Important: Gnatrol WDG should not be injected in combination
    with fertilizers or fungicides containing copper or chlorine,
    as this may neutralize the active ingredients. (Chlorine
    levels in potable water supplies should not present a problem
    with Gnatrol WDG performance).
    Here's a link to their page on gnatrol with the literature

    HTH
    Smiley


    BTW on the subject of ordering from ebay on units from 5oz to 16oz you end up paying about $4.60 per ounce. When you get to the 16lb tub the price drops dramatically to $1.60 an ounce. So if you know some people that would split an order you can really save.

    Leave a comment:


  • jumanji2
    replied
    Smiley, can I add the gnatrol to my nutrient solution or in a seperate container?

    Leave a comment:


  • FinestKind
    replied
    Originally posted by GeorgeSmiley View Post
    Hey what's up Finest kind

    Yeah same active ingredient

    Dunks have BTi in them, just not a lot. It's held in suspension with a binder (vermiculite I think) and meant to sit in standing water and give off small amounts of BT over time. That said, even if you crumble them up it still isn't as much active ingredient to the rootzone.

    So keeping bugs away from standing water use dunks. I have for 12 years on top of my swimming pool winter cover until I open it in the spring. I used dunks in my reservoir for 2 years and still had gnats until I got the gnatrol.

    Gnatrol is for the horticulture and nursery business. It gets a higher concentration of bacillus to the rootzone where the larvae are active. It's not a higher percentage of BTI than dunks just more of it and concentrated in soluble.

    A card of dunks is $10-16 for 6 and gnatrol is $25 for the small container. You are not getting the same amount of BTI, so in my opinion, dunks aren't cheaper and aren't as effective.

    Hope that helps

    Cheers
    Smiley

    Ohh yeah, gnatrol isn't persisting. I think I read somewhere that it's all pooped out in the root zone in 4 days but I cant find the article.

    I'll keep lokking
    EBay... brilliant. About 1/2 the price of buying your own container of it, as some smart fellows bought a bulk container and then dole it out in smaller amounts. Got 145 grams for $25, shipping included.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    For hydro, use a fine threaded closed bag to put it in before you add it to the res...or the dunks will come apart in little chunks and plug your mister nozzles...my friends says to ask him how he knows...lol

    Leave a comment:


  • GeorgeSmiley
    replied
    Hey what's up Finest kind

    Yeah same active ingredient

    Dunks have BTi in them, just not a lot. It's held in suspension with a binder (vermiculite I think) and meant to sit in standing water and give off small amounts of BT over time. That said, even if you crumble them up it still isn't as much active ingredient to the rootzone.

    So keeping bugs away from standing water use dunks. I have for 12 years on top of my swimming pool winter cover until I open it in the spring. I used dunks in my reservoir for 2 years and still had gnats until I got the gnatrol.

    Gnatrol is for the horticulture and nursery business. It gets a higher concentration of bacillus to the rootzone where the larvae are active. It's not a higher percentage of BTI than dunks just more of it and concentrated in soluble.

    A card of dunks is $10-16 for 6 and gnatrol is $25 for the small container. You are not getting the same amount of BTI, so in my opinion, dunks aren't cheaper and aren't as effective.

    Hope that helps

    Cheers
    Smiley

    Ohh yeah, gnatrol isn't persisting. I think I read somewhere that it's all pooped out in the root zone in 4 days but I cant find the article.

    I'll keep lokking

    Leave a comment:


  • FinestKind
    replied
    Originally posted by GeorgeSmiley View Post
    Thought I would share my approach to fungus gnats.

    I grow in organic soil, fresh soil and compost coming into my grow room continuously. Normally this equates to endless gnats.

    I never have more than 4 gnats on a sticky card. Here's how

    First things first, yellow sticky traps work great above the canopy but they're also needed below. I take strips of yellow sticky card and stick them to Popsicle stix or chop stix. This is where I see gnats first. Off the soil and onto the card. I know within a day if gnats are brewing. In flower I had a couple cards on the ceiling with 1 or 2 gnats. The cards below had much more. Much better at early warning.

    Dunks. I keep a dunk in a pantyhose floating in my res at all times. This method WILL NOT control an infestation. It just doesn't. I think it helps between an outbreak but can't decimate them.

    Gnatrol, the secret weapon and why I don't have gnats. 2 waterings in a row and larvae are done for. Sticky traps and any pyreth will handle adults. In fact. The gnatrol works so well that I don't bother with the adults much. They don't have much luck laying more eggs/larvae so they just die. (Adults have a 7-10 day life.)

    So eggs take 4-6 days to become larvae; larvae live for about 12-14 days becoming pupae; 3-6 days becomes and adult and somewhere in the next 7-10 days it lays eggs and dies. About 28 life cycle total.

    I hit it twice in a row getting two hatching of larvae, wait 6-8 days and hit it again. Which gives three shots at them at different stages of development and then hits and stragglers. No new eggs should hatch with the Bti present and adults are dying and cant lay eggs and in that short period you've smashed their life cycle.

    I've read that gnatrol is active in the soil for about 4 days depending on conditions.

    This makes fungus gnats the least likely pest to get out of hand in my garden. Integrated pest management. I integrate this procedure into my growing. Meaning that I treat every 30 days and every fresh soil. It's part of my routine like mixing soil.

    Gnatrol is available in smaller amounts for around $20 on ebay. That's where I get mine and always get 1-2 day service.




    Smiley
    Gnatrol is the same active ingredient as the dunks- BT-i. Can't imagine how it would have a different effect- maybe because it's water soluble? I have used the Gnatrol in the past, and it is quite effective, but relatively expensive; which is why I'm giving the dunks a go.

    Anyhoo, as far as the dunks go, and this may have been mentioned (I can honestly say I didn't read every page), but I was told by my hydro shop owner that he grates the things on the fine part of a cheese grater, and then sprinkles them on top of the pots- seemed pretty brilliant to me!

    And, I must say, I have had no serious fungus gnat infestations since I started using an inch of sand on top of my pots- there are always a few around, but nothing serious. Yes, it does keep the pots wet longer (which can be a good thing- mulch, anyone?) Just recently, I didn't put any sand on a new batch of mothers I made, and I haven't seen a fungus gnat infestation this bad in literally years.

    FK

    Leave a comment:


  • GeorgeSmiley
    replied
    Thought I would share my approach to fungus gnats.

    I grow in organic soil, fresh soil and compost coming into my grow room continuously. Normally this equates to endless gnats.

    I never have more than 4 gnats on a sticky card. Here's how

    First things first, yellow sticky traps work great above the canopy but they're also needed below. I take strips of yellow sticky card and stick them to Popsicle stix or chop stix. This is where I see gnats first. Off the soil and onto the card. I know within a day if gnats are brewing. In flower I had a couple cards on the ceiling with 1 or 2 gnats. The cards below had much more. Much better at early warning.

    Dunks. I keep a dunk in a pantyhose floating in my res at all times. This method WILL NOT control an infestation. It just doesn't. I think it helps between an outbreak but can't decimate them.

    Gnatrol, the secret weapon and why I don't have gnats. 2 waterings in a row and larvae are done for. Sticky traps and any pyreth will handle adults. In fact. The gnatrol works so well that I don't bother with the adults much. They don't have much luck laying more eggs/larvae so they just die. (Adults have a 7-10 day life.)

    So eggs take 4-6 days to become larvae; larvae live for about 12-14 days becoming pupae; 3-6 days becomes and adult and somewhere in the next 7-10 days it lays eggs and dies. About 28 life cycle total.

    I hit it twice in a row getting two hatching of larvae, wait 6-8 days and hit it again. Which gives three shots at them at different stages of development and then hits and stragglers. No new eggs should hatch with the Bti present and adults are dying and cant lay eggs and in that short period you've smashed their life cycle.

    I've read that gnatrol is active in the soil for about 4 days depending on conditions.

    This makes fungus gnats the least likely pest to get out of hand in my garden. Integrated pest management. I integrate this procedure into my growing. Meaning that I treat every 30 days and every fresh soil. It's part of my routine like mixing soil.

    Gnatrol is available in smaller amounts for around $20 on ebay. That's where I get mine and always get 1-2 day service.




    Smiley

    Leave a comment:


  • the Rock
    replied
    Originally posted by LolaGal View Post
    Fungus Gnats are a pain in the butt, and they can damage plants too!

    Get rid of them by using Mosquito Dunks! Works like a charm!

    Take a Mosquito Dunk and break off a piece. Crumble about 1/4 teaspoon on the top of each new pot of soil used in the grow.

    Mosquito Dunk does not mind being dried out, still works fine.

    The Dunk kills the damaging little gnats before they ever start flying. Once the cycle is broken with Dunk, then no more adults! No more breeding.

    Since these little buggers come in potting soil bags, etc., make sure to always put some Dunk on ALL new soil brought into the grow. This will keep them from getting a start in your grow ever again.

    Using Just Dunks, you can get rid of ALL the gnats in a couple weeks it takes to work. AND you can never have gnats in your grow again.

    I have used this myself, works great, very easy and simple to do as well.

    Hope this helps ya'll out.
    i put dunks in a blender and liquefy them first

    Leave a comment:


  • Treetroit City
    replied
    I tried the dunk method, my gnats eat that shit for breakfast and ask for more.

    Leave a comment:


  • BOMBAYCAT
    replied
    Do you think Lowes (big box hardware type store) would deliver to OZ? Anyway Mosquito Dunks are on their website (www.lowes.com). Search for product by mosquito dunks. The product is called Mosquito Dunks (R). They are 6 dunks about small donut size. They are very crumbly so I used a kitchen knife to scrape some into a bowl. I used a spoon to crush it and then sprinkled about 1/4 TSP on top of the soil. Be sure you get something with BTI in it and good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • Treetroit City
    replied
    Anyone using beneficial nematodes to wipe out gnats? 20 bucks at my local grow shop.
    Can also be ordered off amazon for the same price.

    Leave a comment:

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