2021 Outdoor Grow

[typrastaman]

Ingen som planerar köra i sommar?

 

[Parameter]

Hahaha fan va kul att en banan har hittat hit! Trodde ja va sj. Nu får vi visa finnarna vart skåpet ska stå. Roligt att du startade den här tråden. Klart vi kör i sommar precis som alla somrar. Hoppas fler svenskar dyker upp här. Vad ska du själv odla?

 

[offthehook]

Finn to the rescue !

 

[Parameter]

Finn to the rescue !

Welcome to our humble Swedish outdoor thread! Hopefully we’ll be more users. We need to catch up with your Finnish outdoor threadS.

 

[offthehook]

Thanks!
I checked in to see how your genetics are going to pan out in Sweden soon Parameter.
I can give some hints here and there for if people have questions.
To catch up I use google translate, but i prefer talking English my self.

 

[Parameter]

Thanks!
I checked in to see how your genetics are going to pan out in Sweden soon Parameter.
I can give some hints here and there for if people have questions.
To catch up I use google translate, but i prefer talking English my self.

You and your knowledge are welcome and speak whatever language you want. All swedes speaks English so there is no problem.

 

[cbsweden]

ska följa denna tråd, Se till att slänga upp gott om med bilder sen!!

 

[Parameter]

ska följa denna tråd, Se till att slänga upp gott om med bilder sen!!

absolut! Välkommen.

 

[Chemimbalance]

Jag kör min största grow hittills i år. Jag har börjat preppa jorden på plats och har groddat 10 Ulduz, 10 Leb27 och 6 Pehkuthyphoon som kommer få växa 2-3 veckor i fönstret/balkongen innan de planteras ut. Jag kommer troligen grodda ytterligare ett gäng autos lite längre fram också.

Jag lägger upp lite bilder på de små plantorna och hur jag preppar groparna kommande vecka. Kom igen!!

 

[Parameter]

Jag kör min största grow hittills i år. Jag har börjat preppa jorden på plats och har groddat 10 Ulduz, 10 Leb27 och 6 Pehkuthyphoon som kommer få växa 2-3 veckor i fönstret/balkongen innan de planteras ut. Jag kommer troligen grodda ytterligare ett gäng autos lite längre fram också.

Jag lägger upp lite bilder på de små plantorna och hur jag preppar groparna kommande vecka. Kom igen!!

Hallå där! Välkommen. Jag känner igen dig från ett annat forum

Det här forumet är dock bättre. Fler rävar här. Önskar dig lycka till och ser fram emot att följa dig.

 

[offthehook]

Mix in ½% Biolan Kannankakka/Merileva + 1% Grass fed animal dung + a little bit of wood ash. > Then put this mix in the under half of the pot, tub, or hole in the ground, and leave the upper half pure and unadulterated as it is.
First choice:

 

[offthehook]

Second choice. Same instructions as above:

https://kitupiikki.eu/hinta.jsp?text=KASVUTURVE BIOLAN

 

[Parameter]

Mix in ½% Biolan Kannankakka/Merileva + 1% Grass fed animal dung + a little bit of wood ash. > Then put this mix in the under half of the pot, tub, or hole in the ground, and leave the upper half pure and unadulterated as it is.
First choice:

We don’t have that brand in Sweden. That’s ”torv “ which means peat moss. We have other brands that is mixed with animal manure.

 

[offthehook]

Even better.

 

[Parameter]

Even better.

I’m using some cow manure that is from grass fed animals. It’s been laying for maybe 8 months. Do you think its ok? It’s still brown and looks like shit, it hasn’t turn black.

 

[offthehook]

Yes, that's very okay Parameter.

So long you mix it well at 1% with peat moss, add 2 or 3 deciliter wood ash to 100 liter soil, and put it down at the bottom half of your medium, I see no reason something to be wrong.

The ½% chickenshit/seaweed pellets on top of that would make it totally perfect.

But you'd need to make sure that the upper half of your medium is not too rich in Nitrogen.

For the upper half, you'd rather look for some LIGHTLY fertilized, light brown, well draining, greenhouse peat moss with a PH between 6.2 and 6.5.

______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ________



2 or 3 deciliter wood ash per 100 liter soil is important to counter act the cow manures PH, and to add some essential minerals.

It's not all thàt precise, but it'd be good if you can lay your hands on cow manure and wood ash simultaneously, and use it at the same time mixed together.

Cow manure lowers the PH, and has lots of easy uptake-able nitrogen, the wood ash brings the PH back up and adds some essential minerals.
Chickenshit/seaweed pellets alone makes the ph wanna go to 7. Which is too much, for if ya wanna use that same plot each year.

Everything goes better so long there is also that cow manure in the under layer.

But everything goes worse, the further you stray away from following the recipe.

 

[Parameter]

[No message]

 

[Parameter]

Yes, that's very okay Parameter.

So long you mix it well at 1% with peat moss, add 2 or 3 deciliter wood ash to 100 liter soil, and put it down at the bottom half of your medium, I see no reason something to be wrong.

The ½% chickenshit/seaweed pellets on top of that would make it totally perfect.

But you'd need to make sure that the upper half of your medium is not too rich in Nitrogen.

For the upper half, you'd rather look for some LIGHTLY fertilized, light brown, well draining, greenhouse peat moss with a PH between 6.2 and 6.5.

______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ________



2 or 3 deciliter wood ash per 100 liter soil is important to counter act the cow manures PH, and to add some essential minerals.

It's not all thàt precise, but it'd be good if you can lay your hands on cow manure and wood ash simultaneously, and use it at the same time mixed together.

Cow manure lowers the PH, and has lots of easy uptake-able nitrogen, the wood ash brings the PH back up and adds some essential minerals.
Chickenshit/seaweed pellets alone makes the ph wanna go to 7. Which is too much, for if ya wanna use that same plot each year.

Everything goes better so long there is also that cow manure in the under layer.

But everything goes worse, the further you stray away from following the recipe.

I don’t have access to wood ash so I go for chalk. I put on some manure and blue fertiliser pellets.

This spot has a pH of around 4,5. I did some digging to loosen the soil and put on some manure, bag dirt, blue pellet fertiliser and chalk.

Last year I did a test grow on the site and the soil has a good texture. It’s not heavy clay with good drainage. The problem is the pH.

Hope everything goes well.

 

[offthehook]

When PH is 4.5 Then an initial applying of Magnesium holding Chalk is a good alternative to Wood Ash as well, but then you'd need to test the soil with good PH measuring equipment afterwards, or sent a sample of your soil to some farmers lab for soil analysis.

The problem with chalk is that it becomes very easy to overdo, and then you'd need to counter act it with some apple vinegar solution again. > A messy procedure.

Wood ash however is instant soluble, and surplus wood ash would easily drain out, or be neutralized by soil life.

Chalk on the other hand, is a 'slow release' agent, and will continue to raise the PH long after it has reached an optimum PH value.

Also, when using chalk, it is good to spread some of it out over the outer perimeter of the plot. > Like if your plot has lets say a 1 meter diameter where you mix in the chalk, then it is good to cover a surface area of 3 meter in diameter with chalk as well. > The hole you dug and replaced with airy soil, will act as a sinkhole for surplus rain, and the surrounding 4.5 PH will drain in, and fuck up your perfect PH in the hole afterwards otherwise.

But Chalk, kinda tends to 'live a life of it's own' and it would be hard to get it all right already in the first trial. Working with chalk usually takes several seasons before the right equilibrium has been reached.

It is good though, don't get me wrong, but ya need to know what you are doing, or else failure would be easy to expect.

 

[Parameter]

When PH is 4.5 Then an initial applying of Magnesium holding Chalk is a good alternative to Wood Ash as well, but then you'd need to test the soil with good PH measuring equipment afterwards, or sent a sample of your soil to some farmers lab for soil analysis.

The problem with chalk is that it becomes very easy to overdo, and then you'd need to counter act it with some apple vinegar solution again. > A messy procedure.

Wood ash however is instant soluble, and surplus wood ash would easily drain out, or be neutralized by soil life.

Chalk on the other hand, is a 'slow release' agent, and will continue to raise the PH long after it has reached an optimum PH value.

Also, when using chalk, it is good to spread some of it out over the outer perimeter of the plot. > Like if your plot has lets say a 1 meter diameter where you mix in the chalk, then it is good to cover a surface area of 3 meter in diameter with chalk as well. > The hole you dug and replaced with airy soil, will act as a sinkhole for surplus rain, and the surrounding 4.5 PH will drain in, and fuck up your perfect PH in the hole afterwards otherwise.

But Chalk, kinda tends to 'live a life of it's own' and it would be hard to get it all right already in the first trial. Working with chalk usually takes several seasons before the right equilibrium has been reached.

It is good though, don't get me wrong, but ya need to know what you are doing, or else failure would be easy to expect.

I read throughly on the package and measured the dosage and area. But you’re right. I should have put some on the edges to. I think I rather put to little.
Now you made me worried... I should’ve searched for some wood ash but I didn’t know where to find it. I was thinking of public grilling places but they use cole to grill and not wood.