Which vinegar for pH down?

[filimagno]

hi at all ...or ciao a tutti....i think the best way for getting down the ph is the fresh lemon juice(especially cause the citric acid is involved in the krebs cycle and get a form of nutrion directly without biosintesis of plants)

but i think pretty sure THAT IS NOT IMPORTANT CORRECT THE PH OF THE WATER IF YOU USE ORGANICS LIQUID FERTILIZERS MADE BY HYDROLISIS...THE COLLOIDAL POWERFUL OF THE ORGANIC ACIDS AS FULVIC ,HUMIC AND CRENIC MAKE THIS WORK FOR YA.

and when u correct in down ..u made more mystake than good thing!!

peace....fili

 

[BurnOne]

This is the organic soil forum where pH is not a big factor. Get your medium right and forget about those pH meters and the stress you get from using them.
A medium rich in humates will buffer pH and allow nutes to be taken up through the roots at extreme pH ranges. Use compost, worm castings or bottled humus to get your medium right. Powdered dolomite lime will correct the acidic pH of peat based mediums and provide magnesium and calcium as well.
Burn1

 

[guest3854]

Just to prove me wrong Burnt , why don't you show us tha effects of watering your plants with "extreme ph ranges ", and lets really see what happens cause I really can't agree with this . Who'll be tha first , cause I wanna see a plant obsorb some " extreme ph" nutes . Prove me wrong peeps , prove me wrong .

 

[BurnOne]

steel savage-
My Pure Blend Pro solution after mixing runs around 4, and my guano teas can go as high as 9 if bubbled long enough. Never had a problem. I used these nutes for many months before I ever bought a pH meter. Then I got all worried about it. Started using Earth Juice natural pH up and down. Then I realized there was no change. I was still getting those big fat buds as usual. So I studied up on it and discovered the natural effects of humus. You must have a good balanced soiless mix for this to happen. I use worm castings, Liquid Humus and/or Liquid Karma for my humates.
Burn1

 

[filimagno]

...so...i quote burn1...but without polemic i assume that in my experiences:

in past i've never correct ph untill the holland marketing is not come in my country....and after made my test for two years within control ph and using various fertilizers in buyed in the shops...i'm come back from 4 years to uncheck the ph of the water ...and the results speaks as well as me!!

within control ph until 6.3...i've never catch the g x watt ever...nowadays i pass this goal with no problem with 5 to 10 days of veg period.

for me this is a big results within soil and organics.

sage 90 days of flo (98 harvested)
600 watt agro
my own fertilizers ( www.biomagno.com )
TAP WATER PH 7.5 ..EC 0.4
NO CO2

pheno #1






pheno #2




various





16 clones x m2 ...780 grams

completely and NUMEBERDED european ORGANIC FARMING certified...
NOT FAKE AS OMRI AND SKAL!!(where u pay and take the certify)

peace fili

 

[sproutco]

Don't use vinegar

Don't use vinegar

To lower your ph use sulfuric acid, sometimes called qual, from the autoparts store. As a benefit, it will supply sulfur to your plants, a necessary macronutrient. Don't get any on your hands or they will burn and turn red. You will use very little. You might make a stock of 1 teaspoon of acid to 1 gallon (3.8L) water. Then add an ounce or two of this stock to lower the ph of the nutrient solution. You will have to experiment/titrate how much to use. This may take many tries of too much or too little before you find your recipe. Aim for a ph of 5.6 to 6.2 in soilless mix with 5.8 best, 6 to 6.5 in hydroponic, and 5.8 to 6.5 outdoors in the ground. When you adjust your nutrient solution to 5.8 (for example) and apply this to soil, the soil ph will rise or lower towards this. In time, the soil would also be 5.8 ph.

 

[filimagno]

To lower your ph use sulfuric acid, sometimes called qual, from the autoparts store. As a benefit, it will supply sulfur to your plants, a necessary macronutrient. Don't get any on your hands or they will burn and turn red. You will use very little. You might make a stock of 1 teaspoon of acid to 1 gallon (3.8L) water. Then add an ounce or two of this stock to lower the ph of the nutrient solution. You will have to experiment/titrate how much to use. This may take many tries of too much or too little before you find your recipe. Aim for a ph of 5.6 to 6.2 in soilless mix with 5.8 best, 6 to 6.5 in hydroponic, and 5.8 to 6.5 outdoors in the ground. When you adjust your nutrient solution to 5.8 (for example) and apply this to soil, the soil ph will rise or lower towards this. In time, the soil would also be 5.8 ph.

FOR FOLLOW UR MEANS THE BEST ONES IS FOSFORIC ACID...but unlucky in soil it's all time wasted...plus this one is an organic forum part.
........

 

[sproutco]

Phosphoric acid could also be used but adding phophorus may not be desirable. Nitric acid is another choice but adding more nitrogen may not be desirable. Sulfuric acid is probably best because sulfur is considered to be neutral and plants tolerate alot of sulfur. Organic, by definition, only means that it contains carbon.

 

[Suby]

Excuse me but sulphuric acid is NOT organic and defeats the purpose and the philosophy behind organics completely.

B1 keep telling them how it's done, I'm glad to see someone still knows their shit after the "bottle pushers" are done brainwashing organic growers.

 

[filimagno]

LEMON JUICE IS A GREAT SOURCE BOTH FOR PH DOWN,VITAMINS AND CITRIC ACID THAT
OTHER STUFF SUCK...I REMEMBER THAT VINEGAR COULD COMPROMISE SOME REACTION IN THE SOIL AND IT'S NOT STABLE AS LEMON JUICE.

 

[filimagno]

now i'm reallly confused ...

I add LK to a tea of bat and seabird guano, castings, molasses, kelp and then bubble it for 48 hours. My ph at the end is about 7.8.

So do I ph adjust the tea down to 6.8? or leave it as is. (BTW I'm growing in soil with myco.)

I always wondered about bring the ph down so much suddenly right before applying cos of the effects on the microherd.

EHI MAN....follow the advice of Suby....when u put this solution in the soil;every things goes right by the function of the colloidal parts in the medium plus the microflora work in ur soil.

 

[minds_I]

Hello all,

Suby and Burn1, are you telling me that I can pour my guano tea with molasses and kelp that pH'ed at 9 or above after bubbling for 3 days into my organic soil mix (ffof/ewc/perlite (50/20/30) with D.lime) without pH problems for the lenght of the grow?

minds_I

 

[BurnOne]

minds_I-
That's correct.

 

[guest3854]

Just for edjucational purposes maybe water 1 plant to compare to tha rest . Make sure all other factors being equal .

 

[Suby]

Hello all,

Suby and Burn1, are you telling me that I can pour my guano tea with molasses and kelp that pH'ed at 9 or above after bubbling for 3 days into my organic soil mix (ffof/ewc/perlite (50/20/30) with D.lime) without pH problems for the lenght of the grow?

minds_I

Affirmative.

I think the two key reasons why organic growers get away with this is that unlike inorganic fert uptake is not dependant on osmotic pressure around the rootzone and with organics nutes active uptake and mychorizae bridge the gap.
I must stress that dolomite lime helps this go smoothly and that the presence of humic and/or fulvic acid are important.

Besides your not watering every 3 days with a ph 9 solution, you do it once followed regular watering, waterings in between fert doses is the way I've always grown.

Sub's

 

[minds_I]

Hello all,

I have a liquid kelp that is 6% humic acid. I have ewc in ffof soil. I feed with molasses and kelp every watering and lately it has been feeding every watering. But I have been adjusting the pH of the solution.

Now Fulivc acids are derived from humic acids which should be in my soil already. In addition the boost in humic acid from the liquid kelp I should have to not worry about the fulvic acids? Correct?


Anyway, the mazars are 12 days from the chop according to the calendar. The trichs are 95% milky- the odd clear and amber here and there.

So, no telling how long till 40/60 amber/milky. Also, I am hoping to pack on the weight-looks like they are too.

Anyway, since I am organic- I may give them one more guano (3-10-1) with kelp and molasses tea feeding. I may even watercure.


I have two Nirvana afghani's that are 17 days into flower.

I think the stretch has stopped so I am going to go with the guano teas from this point on.

I had been bumping the N with Alaska fish and guano during flower. Also, the plants are in fresh soil as of the first day of 12/12.

If you recall the mazars went south with a nitrogen def. and I lost all of the fan leaves. I relied on the FFOF but it was around 30 days in the soil (3 weeks in flower)when they showed signs of an N def.

Anyway, I did not give them any N during the first few weeks of flowering-this is the cause of the deficiency I believe combined with the N bottoming out in the soil.

I am going to increase N during the stretch with alaska fish

I hope my buds won't be too harsh from the fert mistreatment.

minds_I

 

[Suby]

Just like alot of growers use half grow and half bloom formulas to fertilize for the first 3 weeks of flowering to keep from a N deficienty you can use half high N and half high P guano.
If your 14 days from harvest I doubt any additional organic fertilizers will have time to break down in 14 days to feed your plant, remember your mostly feeding for the future and not for the moment with organics, the micros need time to make organic ferts available.
If you use straight molasses and water for the last 10 days it will help boost microbe levels and make sure they are weel fed so as to max potential.

.02$

Sub's

 

[minds_I]

^^

Thanks- makes sense to me anyway-they are starting to fatten up but its been my experiece too that new growth is at a minmium that close to the end anyway.

Sometimes I get into the mindset that "more is better"-I know I am a weak disgusting individual....Buahahahahaha

Anyway, this Sunday will be the end of 3 weeks of 12/12 for the Afghani's. They are due to be watered/fed tonight. They look good-no overfert signs- they look very happy.

I have the following bubbling:

1 tbs ewc/gallon
2 tbs guano (3-10-1)
1-2 tbs molasses

I add the liquid kelp at the time of feeding at full strenght.

Should I give them one more shot of Alaska to "top them off" as it were withthe tea.

minds_I

 

[Suby]

At 3 weeks the can be topped off with some N, I'm sure they will do nicely throughout the grow with that last shot of N, just don't overdo it.

Peace

 

[minds_I]

Well, the tea will have some npk value. The guano is (3-10-1) and the Alaska fish is (5-1-1). It is my intention to give a half shot dose of alaska (1/2 tbs) in the tea.

Along with the liquid kelp.

This should not be too much I think.

minds_I