ashash1212
Member
bump
looking foward to anything more pll's have to offer
looking foward to anything more pll's have to offer
The "Tony Danza" - 440 Watt PL-L - Low Pressure Aeroponic - Cabinet Build and Grow
- Thread starter DonkeyPunch
- Start date
DonkeyPunch
Member
Hey everyone I have not updated the thread because there has not been much to update. The cab still sets uncompleted as I was forced to stop growing in my last location for security concerns. I am just now coming back to the forums and have the itch to get started again in the next month or two, now that I am in a new and safer location.
alexonfire
Member
Hope all goes well for you
alexonfire
Member
Could you show me how you wired the ballast to the 2g11 sockets?
I am having trouble figuring out the diagrams
I am having trouble figuring out the diagrams
cosmik debris
Member
CutList is the shit. Also allows you to optimize your cut layouts many different ways. One for mainly cross cuts, one for rip cuts, one to minimize over all waste...all with or without watching grain direction for ya. I think I bought the cheap version a few years back and still use it all of the time. Mine will also print labels for each part with names, so if I cut it up and let it sit for a while it still makes sense a month later.
Regarding Home Depot and their cutting services: they are limited by their equipment and ability as well. Don't count on shit bein' right just 'cuz they threw it up on their fancy panel saw. Those are not very precise pieces of equipment generally, and particularly one that gets slammed around by a bunch of different less than cabinet maker types all day. If you want to make life simpler when you get home, or if you don't have a Home Depot that cuts for ya, here's a ghetto approach.
Using any circular saw, a good sharp blade made for cutting plywood (most of the H.D. sold Freud finish blades do a good job), a 4' level and a pair of clamps, you can get very good straight cuts. If you need to make any long rip cuts for your lay out you'll need a longer straight edge (aluminium rectangular tube or steel angle can work, but even these often aren't real straight - a long rip of plywood off of another saw can work though). Measure the bottom of your saw's blade offset from the edge of the blade to the edge of the saw's shoe. Measure back that distance from the edge where your cut line is and clamp the straight edge to your work. Now with a little practice and a slight bit of lateral pressure to keep your saw tight to the straight edge, you'll be butcherin' wood like a pro.
Not exactly a CNC, but it'll get the job done. Measure twice...then measure again... then cut. ("I've cut this thing three times and it's still too short?"). Also, if you've ever stared at all of those little tiny marks that split the tape measure up into teenie weenie little shit hash marks and wondered what the hell they are for...well this is what they are for.
Now I realize that we're not buildin' pianos here, but the truth is that the more square and precise that your cuts are, the simpler that everything else you're gonna do follows along, and ultimately the better looking your final results.
Pre-drill any holes where screws are going to be used, and remember that 3/4" plywood ain't exactly 3/4" thick. Did I mention measure?
Regarding Home Depot and their cutting services: they are limited by their equipment and ability as well. Don't count on shit bein' right just 'cuz they threw it up on their fancy panel saw. Those are not very precise pieces of equipment generally, and particularly one that gets slammed around by a bunch of different less than cabinet maker types all day. If you want to make life simpler when you get home, or if you don't have a Home Depot that cuts for ya, here's a ghetto approach.
Using any circular saw, a good sharp blade made for cutting plywood (most of the H.D. sold Freud finish blades do a good job), a 4' level and a pair of clamps, you can get very good straight cuts. If you need to make any long rip cuts for your lay out you'll need a longer straight edge (aluminium rectangular tube or steel angle can work, but even these often aren't real straight - a long rip of plywood off of another saw can work though). Measure the bottom of your saw's blade offset from the edge of the blade to the edge of the saw's shoe. Measure back that distance from the edge where your cut line is and clamp the straight edge to your work. Now with a little practice and a slight bit of lateral pressure to keep your saw tight to the straight edge, you'll be butcherin' wood like a pro.
Not exactly a CNC, but it'll get the job done. Measure twice...then measure again... then cut. ("I've cut this thing three times and it's still too short?"). Also, if you've ever stared at all of those little tiny marks that split the tape measure up into teenie weenie little shit hash marks and wondered what the hell they are for...well this is what they are for.
Now I realize that we're not buildin' pianos here, but the truth is that the more square and precise that your cuts are, the simpler that everything else you're gonna do follows along, and ultimately the better looking your final results.
Pre-drill any holes where screws are going to be used, and remember that 3/4" plywood ain't exactly 3/4" thick. Did I mention measure?
