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UBER21
what type of carbon filter and what size was it that u were using?
Great Inline Fans
- Thread starter FullMetalJacket
- Start date
kaljukajakas
Active member
The filter was homemade, about 8" OD by 16" long. Filled with a 4/5" layer of carbon I salvaged from a massive air filter that was in an old Soviet bunker.
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UBER21
Well just bought the 4 in can fan high output rated 172cfm and its FREAKING LOUD....the sound of the air pushing thru the ducting is like a jet engine on take off.....even with like about 10ft of ducting its still very loud.....Wonder if getting a speed controller would lower the WOOSH sound a bit..... 
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Speed controllers do wonders, Also mufflers, fan isolation boxes and double insulated ducting (say, 4" Insulated duct inside 6" insulated duct). You'll still need something to pin the remaining noise on. The only silent fan is an unplugged fan.
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UBER21
Well let me say this just bought a speedster speed controller and all I can say is there is a GOD.....lol.....this thing tuned down the fan to where its barely louder than my oscilating fan......if I need more power just crank her up a notch and bam.... more torque......hahaha....luv in it..... 
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Note that some fans will make horrible mechanical sounds if you start at reduced speed. If so, start at full speed and reduce manually.
Dr Watt
Who What
Yeh, very good point from Freezer ^ also safer to start fast 'cos small risk of fan not turninng over and burning out, similarly best to run fan above bare minimum speed - just use your own judgement - they often make more noise in hum/whine when they're too slow.
If noise is an issue then oversizing fan and running at half speed is effective means of lowering noise. The fan wouldn't be as strong at less the full speed but doesn't seem this ever comes into play.
The canfans are surely good quality and, like all proper fans, you can run them 24/7 and they last forever. Says here the RS 4'' HO is 155cfm@0static pressure http://canfilters.com/fan_metal_rs4.html
If noise is an issue then oversizing fan and running at half speed is effective means of lowering noise. The fan wouldn't be as strong at less the full speed but doesn't seem this ever comes into play.
The canfans are surely good quality and, like all proper fans, you can run them 24/7 and they last forever. Says here the RS 4'' HO is 155cfm@0static pressure http://canfilters.com/fan_metal_rs4.html
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UBER21
Yeah deff good quality......running her at medium speed and shes pretty quiet and still doing her job at scrubbing the air......
The TD-150 is not quiet at all except at very low speeds, using a light dimmer hooked up to the low speed circuit. It is telling that they refuse to give a sone rating for their products, and everyone else does. Not even at full power on low speed, you can hear it from the next room or through a wall. It doesn't really matter if or how you have it connected to a scrubber, or how long your duct length is, it's just as loud not hooked up to anything. Maybe if you use a TD-315 for cooling a 250 HPS, it really will be quiet. Maybe compared to other companies similar products they are quiet, I don't know.
Cannabean
Active member
Igignokt, I am changing my setup and am going to cool a 1000w in an 8" hood with my TD-200X. I think either 478/419 cfm (high/low) not reduced at all will work fine for a 1000w. I'll be venting a 4.5' x 6' x 8'h room.
Seems like 10" reduced to 6 would cause unnecessary strain on the fan which, in your case, in a 4x4x6 tent sounds like overkill to me.
If this is not the case and/or my plan doesn't sound like it would work please correct me!!
Seems like 10" reduced to 6 would cause unnecessary strain on the fan which, in your case, in a 4x4x6 tent sounds like overkill to me.
If this is not the case and/or my plan doesn't sound like it would work please correct me!!
How does a S&P inline (say 200x or 250) compare to a stanley blower (in noise). I know stanleys are loud, and the S&P's are supposed to be stealth, but is it a great difference? I have a stanley blower but if a S&P is really that much more quiet (plus would move more air) id be all for droppin the money
LMK
LMK
TheShroomDude
Member
I am building a Ngb cab and am going with The S&P's either the TD-125 5" 197 Cfm or the TD-150 6" 293 Cfm. Flower is 3.5'Lx2'Wx4'T(7SqFt) and the Mother/Clone will be 1.5'Lx2'Wx2.8'T(3sqFt). To move air 3 times a min. I need 109 Cfm's so the Td-125 will work, but will be pulling(maybe pushing) though carbon scrubber and a 400w Cool-Tube. So am not sure if the 125 will be enough, or if I should go for the 150. Will also have it on a speedster speed control.
I do have another question about the fans. What size would someone make the scrubber for 1 of these fans? And do you have to adjust the size of the scrubber if the fan is on a speed control? I searched a few times and never saw any posts with this being said. Am guessing it does not matter but want to make sure.
I do have another question about the fans. What size would someone make the scrubber for 1 of these fans? And do you have to adjust the size of the scrubber if the fan is on a speed control? I searched a few times and never saw any posts with this being said. Am guessing it does not matter but want to make sure.
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Bulénath
Member
TheShroomDude said:
You may wana go with 5 air exchanges per minute with a 400HPS...
As for scrubber size...It is all about contact time and humidity.
I plan on making mine about 2 square feet to vent through two Cool Sun a/c reflectors each with a 600HPS (1200w total), while using a TD150 to pull through it all.... I think I will make the carbon bed depth about 2", but no more... That depth of carbon seems to be the norm for professional grade can filters.
Cannabean
Active member
alright, time to bump this thread with some pics.
wiring your S&P fan:
None of the S&P fans come pre-wired. I assume this is because they make HVAC intended equipment and figure they will be hardwired into the building or connected to a thermostat/speed controller.
Regardless, its easy to wire and I prefer it this way because it allows you to choose from 2 speeds without the added purchase of a speed controller.
The necessary cable is any 120v grounded cable. I buy the $10, 8ft 120v 'power tool repair cables' from home depot to wire the s&p's but chopping and stripping one end of an extension cable will work as well.
Once you have clean wires its time to unscrew the motor panel cover. You'll see the wiring adapter in white.
The lettering below the adapter reads N/LA/LB. Connect white(common)-N(left). For hi-speed connect the black(120 VAC 60hz)-LA(middle). For low speed(as shown) connect the black (120 VAC 60 hz)-LB(right).
Secure wires in place with small flathead screwdriver (ph meter calibration screwdrivers as well as fingernail clippers with that extra dealy to get the dirt out from under your nails will suffice)
Place the wiring adapter into the plastic pins to secure it in place and reapply the motor housing cover.
TD-100x wired:
wiring your S&P fan:
None of the S&P fans come pre-wired. I assume this is because they make HVAC intended equipment and figure they will be hardwired into the building or connected to a thermostat/speed controller.
Regardless, its easy to wire and I prefer it this way because it allows you to choose from 2 speeds without the added purchase of a speed controller.
The necessary cable is any 120v grounded cable. I buy the $10, 8ft 120v 'power tool repair cables' from home depot to wire the s&p's but chopping and stripping one end of an extension cable will work as well.
Once you have clean wires its time to unscrew the motor panel cover. You'll see the wiring adapter in white.
The lettering below the adapter reads N/LA/LB. Connect white(common)-N(left). For hi-speed connect the black(120 VAC 60hz)-LA(middle). For low speed(as shown) connect the black (120 VAC 60 hz)-LB(right).
Secure wires in place with small flathead screwdriver (ph meter calibration screwdrivers as well as fingernail clippers with that extra dealy to get the dirt out from under your nails will suffice)
Place the wiring adapter into the plastic pins to secure it in place and reapply the motor housing cover.
TD-100x wired:
TheShroomDude
Member
Bulénath said:
Damnit. I looked for my paper where I had all the stuff wrote down for I came up with the Cfm's and things I needed to figure that out and can't find it(wife cleaned the desk). So am not sure how many Cfm's I need for 5 times, but am guessing that the 197 should still be enough for the 5 air exchanges.
Found it changing 5 times all I need is 182 so the 125 should do, but still not sure about that is enough with the scrubber.
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Bulénath
Member
TheShroomDude said:
Sorry I wasn't more specific.
I ran your numbers and came to 182 CFM @ 5 air exchanges per minute.
However, that does not include your utility room!
Carbon filters will tax the CFM for sure, and to be safe, you might want to run the fan on "high", but with a carbon filter assume it will have a CFM equal to its "low" speed.
Always, and I mean always, pull air through a scrubber. It is always better to use the laws of Nauture to your advantage. That is, it is better to displace air than try to forcefully replace it...Think passive intake, same concept.
Cannabean,
Thank you for the tutorial! Surely many people will bennefit form it!
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