Making fullmelt dry sift with the 3 screen bubblebox

I want to start today with a photo essay on the bubblebox, the first multiple screen box available on the net. The bubblebox is a three screen box, that allows you not only to extract the resins thru dry sift technique's, but also to clean and seperate out into a few grades. MY main interest in releasing this box was to teach people how they could turn the small amounts of dry sift they are currently making, either from their joint rolling or the breaking up of bud for vaporizing, into a full melt product. Producing a full melt dry sift is not as easy as it may seem> it can be done with single screens sometimes, but the key word there is SOMETIMES. The colder it is for dry sifting the better, and the infamous freezer method works great, but not eveyrone has freezing weather outside or a walk in freezer. For the rest of us there is the three screen bubble box.












The top screen is a 120lpi-140u and is for breaking up your nugget on top of. Gland heads and contaminant will fall thru this one, ( this is the grade of dry sift most people smoke), but we are gonna clean it up once it drops to the next screen.







The next screen is the 140lpi-107u, This screen will push thru the majority of our heads that are below 106 microns. My favorite gland heads and the ones i find the most melty are often found between the 106 and 70u. YOu will want to gently take your card( that comes with the box or any plastic card you have handy) and swaft if back and forth over the resin. this will push thru any heads that are smaller than 107u and leave any contaminant or heads that are larger. For me the grade that is left on this second screen, is PERFECT for vaporizing. it seems to be a good ratio of glands to plant matter for perfect vapo hits.














ONce you are done with this screen, you get to the final and last screen the 200lpi-70u. Now many of you may be confused but this will be your full melt dry sift ( the heads that stay on TOP of this screen), now common sense tells us the best will be on the plate below the final screen, but actualy those will be much smalller heads and contaminant. This final screen can take time, so be patient, the longer you push the card around gently with these heads, the cleaner a product you will get. The 70u and bigger heads won't push thru the screen as you are gently pushing the resin around the scren with the card. The contaminant and smaller heads will go thru, but the larger heads will sit nicely on top of your screen>










YOu know you are getting close when the dry sift is sparkling like diamonds. this is what we are looking for. If you want to know how close your getting, once you see that lovely sparkling you can try a little hit and see what it does.







YOu can see by the photo's after about fifteen minutes of gently rubbing the resin back and forth ( gently because if you do it hard, you will heat up the resin and depending on its purity it will start to melt). I put a little into my roor and light it with a match gently and as you can see, its melting lovely.













ON the bottom plate of your box, you will find a very light material, this is mostly smaller heads and contaminant, still great for adding to joints ( if you smoke them ) or cooking with.







well there it is folks, please if you have any questions, shoot away, otherwise i hope to see many more pictures of people's full melt dry sift's they have made with multiple screens, be it the bubblebox or your own homemade version. Show us how its done...




peace

Well i had an interesting idea today, i wanted to photograph macro style all the levels of material that i run thru my box. starting at the top screen with the actual plant matter.
Now this particular plant matter is krush, and was already bounced a bit, so that is why some heads are obviously missing.






the second screen was taken before i worked it thru the screen, as you can see the contamination level is off the charts. This second screen on the bubble box i sometimes actualy will use in my vaporizer. as its got more heads to plant matter ratio than actual herb, but not to much that it plugs the unit.






I also took a photo of the above pile which is basicaly what landed on the second screen from the first, with my regular camera, so you can see what it looked like to the naked eye. Pretty decent, however the macro tells another story...



This pile will look not to different from the last macro shot, This is what landed on the third screen from the second> now it pulled out only the largest plant contamination and plant matter, however its still needs to be cleaned. The third screen is the most important screen.




I then took a card and gently rubbed the resin back and forth over the screen> Doing this in extreme cold will give you SUPERIOR results everytime. The glands need to be as brittle as possible when dry sift seperating capitate stalk from glandular head. Also going to fast, will heat the glands up thus making it even more difficult for cleaning out contaminant.
The results after just 15 minutes was decent. The dry sift is now close to 90+ % heads. For the meltiest of dry sift, 98%heads liquify. Extremly difficult to get 100% gland heads unless your sam the skunkman.





The same pile above is shown here with the regular camera again , basicaly how the naked eye would perceive this pile..




finaly the bottom tray> this tray is basicaly going to contain all heads that are smaller than 70u ( my last screen size) I chose this size because you can always still get a smaller screen and clean out your smaller heads from the plant contaminant. My 25u and often 45u go to friends who cook, and they absolutely love it. I also will give away or cook with it personaly ie the bottom tray on the bubblebox. BY using a 70u screen for my last screen, i am assuring myself the 70+ micron size heads. Which are basicaly my favorite. between 140u and 70u is what i prefer.

Here is the botton tray photos.




I puffed a little of this and it melted nicely. Here are a few macro shots that clearly show the non melting capitate stalks of the glandular trichome. YOu can see everything else around it melting, but not the plant matter, and not the capitate stalks.






Hope that you all enjoyed that as much as i did. PUff a bowl while you check out the photos again, i hope for this thread to be more of a learning tool than anything. If you got anything to share, please add it here.

Peace
Bubble man

Great thread!!!

Stay Safe

right on BMan!

an other great way for getting MELTY,

thanks for sharing to us all!

see you around.

Nice pics and great directions, looks awesome to have I'm a start saving.
The bags just take to much starting product at once.
With this u can just accumulate over months

last question. How do u clean it. I run my stainless mesh wood frame through hot water then toothbrush it with some iso.
This warped the wood so I guess it's a bad idea? With this expensive box anyway.

NIce thread man!do you prefer dry sift or bubble hash in term of flavor and high?Ex:70 micron bubble hash or 70 micron dry sitf of the same strain of course.I'm just curious if you ever did a comparison.Have a nice day!

ive wanted a bubble box but i dont know where to get em

I couldn't decide whether I wanted to spend money on a single screen tumbler, multiple water bags, or a multiple screen set. This thread definitely made the choice clear. Thanks for the pics and step by step bubbleman.

so its just 3 framed screens ontop one another in a box? any other features? forgive my ignorance, this is just the first time i've seen photos of the product in depth.

great post bman!looks like a superb item..
1 question where can we buy the bubblebox?

pure and simple BUTTY

http://www.bubblebag.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=24&osCsid=7931a4fc3e8affe1c7a515df14006bb2

they sell WORLDWIDE

great service/customer assistance

looks like some delish melt!

I thought those screens looked familiar. Bubbleman have you tried using a vacuum cleaner under the 200 mesh? I tried it a few times with mixed results and never really got the technique perfect. That 200 does make some nice drysift regardless.
I also notice that most screens you get from anywhere is unfinished wood meaning it doesn't have a sealer on it. I've had my set for awhile and I live where it's 100% humidity which has caused some of my screens to warp slightly. You think it's ok to wipe the frames with linseed oil or something? Sorry didn't mean to hijack

Yea, how do ya clean without warping them a light iso rub or something?

I would get my screens reframed onto small metal frames if i lived in a 100% humidity> This would alleviate all your future problems. Wood will otherwise warp in those conditions eventualy.
As for cleaning my screens, Using them in colder weather will keep you from having to do anything other than using them> However once resin has melted into your screen, i have used a tooth brush and some diluted iso with water. This will clean off the screens nicely without affecting the actual wood.
no worries on the hijack , good question, good info.

Hey papulz, yeah the box is basicaly the three screens, it use to have a side chamber, but with the cost of wood going up, i received word a while ago, that my larger box would now have to be cut down in size, just to be the same price.


aS For the vaccuming, i have tried it also with mixed results. I prefer the card method and a cold cold room personaly. When i first went down to lugano to meet breeder steve ( i already knew him for years but first time i had gone to see him down there)
he was using a small sifter shaker and a vaccum. Would take him like half an hour to get a few good hits. Well one run in the twenty gallon bag, and that vaccum and sifter shaker were put away for good.
Kilo's of bubble later, and the bags were still rocking... thanks for the memories steve
diversity is indeed the spice of life....


Bubble man

bowlgrinder said:

last question. How do u clean it. I run my stainless mesh wood frame through hot water then toothbrush it with some iso.
This warped the wood so I guess it's a bad idea? With this expensive box anyway.

Click to expand...

Tell me you didn't I just use acetone. That's what screen printers use to clean their frames. It's perfect for poly mono screen too

as Chief says....never soak any type of finished wooden item in water...that's just asking for trouble!

I'm in the wood biz and I can tell you that under normal use, warpage of finished wooden products is more likely to occur under extremely dry conditions, rather than in humid climates.

cheap screen frames that use the wrong type of wood, uncured wood, poorly put together, with mesh that's strung too tight &/or the side wall wood thickness is too thin and you will likely have twisting or warpage problems

and from what I can tell, the wood for the Bubble box screen frames I own is it's some type of pine, probably kiln dried pine....this species is way more impervious to warpage or joint opening than many hard woods that are used for screen frames sold in art stores...in fact I've never heard of this type of screen frame having any warping, twisting or open joint problems....how about you Bubbleman, ever had any returns for warped screen frames?

Yea, how do ya clean without warping them a light iso rub or something?

100% alcohol is fine for cleaning S/S or nylon meshes...and it won't hurt the wood frames, in fact many types of wood stains are (95%) alcohol based...the wooden products are dipped, wiped or sprayed with the stain solution, often multiple times, the stain then soaks into the wood and colors it while the alcohol soon evaporates or dries off.

(but may effect the finish of the wood or metal frameif it is lacquered or painted..but most screen frames are not sprayed for a good reason, cos who wants lacquer on the inside of a screen frame!..for one thing resin sticks to painted or lacquered surfaces

btw ...there are many types of screen frames available on the market that use different types of metal, wood or mesh material...some of these frames have a lacquered, varnished, stained or painted finish..so you should make sure alcohol or acetane doesn't damage this finish before brushing the mesh

so just to be safe....it's best to test any type of cleaning solution on the mesh on underside of the frame to make sure it won't affect the screen mesh or the frame's finish

another way to clean screen frames is with compressed air, especially if it's leaf dust rather than smudged trichomes thats blocking the mesh.

Dusters are made useless by the idiots that use them for long time suicide.
Now they got that freezing fluid to keep the kids from inhaling it.
They inhale it anyway.
So now when you spray you're "compressed air" A FREEZING LIQUID SPRAYS OUT. got the shit all over my KEYBOARD.

I'd never use that shit on something expensive.
(you're area probably has the good ones without the liquid I cant find anywhere"

fuck hijacked this... sorry I'll fix it


So How durable is the box in terms of.

You say a freezer helps what if I threw the stuff in the box then closed it and threw the box into a freezer? Then shook the whole box?

I did this with my current box and its seemed well....wet. Like the water in the freezer from ice and what not seeped into the box or something.

Hmmm last time I used a can it would only shoot a liquid if you turned it upside down