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Yellowing edges in leaves

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
I ran out of cooked soil so I used a generic "supersoil" to put this plant in.
Is this an N deficiency or is it burning?

I thought the plant would adapt, but it's spreading.
Image2.jpg
 

Great outdoors

Active member
I tend to lean towards k deficiency when the yellowing starts on the edges.
N more tends to make the whole leaf go paler in color until it yellows.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
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Veteran
Beautiful example of a potassium deficiency, and depending on which way your are growing, you have a couple of choices. Wood ash is organic and the other is potassium nitrate, Synthetic. 😎
 

PassionForMJ

Active member
Bonemeal, Banana Peel tea, Wood Ash, or basic flowing nute formula should have enough K to help them bounce back.
What are you using to fertilize them?
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
K deficiency can also be a product of over watering.

It's a dozen plants in a pretend guerilla grow on the back 40 so definitely not over watered. There's nothing like a walk in nature to a grow. When you turn that last corner and see them.... priceless.

On tap.
ggreen.jpg


I'll update when I see improvement.

Thanks for the help guys.
 

Great outdoors

Active member
It's a dozen plants in a pretend guerilla grow on the back 40 so definitely not over watered. There's nothing like a walk in nature to a grow. When you turn that last corner and see them.... priceless.

On tap.


I'll update when I see improvement.

Thanks for the help guys.

I use that product occasionally. I find it helps but is not a game changer at their recommend doses anyways. But I have really big plants. Will be interesting to hear your results if this will be your only fix.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
I use that product occasionally. I find it helps but is not a game changer at their recommend doses anyways. But I have really big plants. Will be interesting to hear your results if this will be your only fix.

I used the last of my Kelp and Potash (the mineral) in my cooked soil. I didn't use either in this batch. I want to know if that's the issue. I'm pretty sure it is, but if I throw the kitchen at it I'll never know.

I can sacrifice these plants because I always grow way more than I can use. Worst case, the kid's christmas stocking stuffers will be smaller. lol.


Edit.
This is the kelp I use.
fetch


and this is the Potash I use from the local farmer's co-op. I get about 20lbs for a couple bucks. lol
iStock_28710854_XLARGE_460x400.jpg
 

Great outdoors

Active member
I used the last of my Kelp and Potash (the mineral) in my cooked soil. I didn't use either in this batch. I want to know if that's the issue. I'm pretty sure it is, but if I throw the kitchen at it I'll never know.

I can sacrifice these plants because I always grow way more than I can use. Worst case, the kid's christmas stocking stuffers will be smaller. lol.


Edit.
This is the kelp I use.
fetch


and this is the Potash I use from the local farmer's co-op. I get about 20lbs for a couple bucks. lol
iStock_28710854_XLARGE_460x400.jpg

Love buying products from the feed store for 1/10th the price 👍

I have just found it works decent as a preventative but for the recovery I need a decent dose of sulpomag and wood ash. Like I said I have not tried higher doses though as I am generally a less is more guy.
This is the time of year when outdoors will classically show the k deficiency. They need a lot of k in the beginning of flower. In general I find they need a lot more k than p, or n for that matter.
 

f-e

Well-known member
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The typical Kg box in the garden center is 40% actual K, or 50% KO. That can lift a 20sqm plant patch a few grades. I bet you need something like that.

A soil sample is the cost of a few beans. The result will allow a correction that pays for itself, and then some. You just whale a 1.5" tube, 6" into the ground. Then empty the core it pulls out, as that's your sample. I myself use a scaffold tube, that I have drilled to take a T bar (big screwdriver) at one end. The other end is castellated, so I can use the T bar to twist it into the ground, after wetting the tube to reduce adhesion of the core. The scaffold tube wall is too thick really, but it's what I had, and works. Giving a good representation of the top 6" that you want to correct.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
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Veteran
The best time to work the soil is in the Fall and Winter. Go into the woods with a couple five gallon buckets and gather leaf mold from under the trees and put them in the plots. Work your plots friend, and get them ready before planting time, and quit being lazy. 😎
 

Great outdoors

Active member
Sorry had a long day at work, and it has been a while, I was thinking of kelp meal, or liquid kelp, then again that does not have much in it either, but if it would not hurt to add some..

No worry's, just didn't want someone to get the wrong info. We all have brain farts now and then 👍
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
The best time to work the soil is in the Fall and Winter. Go into the woods with a couple five gallon buckets and gather leaf mold from under the trees and put them in the plots. Work your plots friend, and get them ready before planting time, and quit being lazy. 😎

I spray liquid IMO in the spring.
 
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