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What is this weird fungus like stuff on my stems?

Smokeytime

New member
I’ve had this fungus like stuff for about 2 years .
It’s been getting worse and worse. Does anyone know what it is and how to get rid of it?
Showing first Sighns when clones are about 12 inches tall. Plants look great. Big leaves big stems until about three weeks before harvest then some lower leaf die off . I am pulling about 2 per light instead of 3.
Tested negative for HLV and fusarium.
Indoor grow
Gavida 800 W
Athena nutrients
Fine Tuper Coco 2 gallon pots.
65 to 80°
Plenty of light and circulation
Sealed room CO2 at 1500 ppm
Humidity 50 to 60%
All 6 strains infected
Watering three minutes five times a day.
 

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Ca++

Well-known member
I see this outdoors, almost every year. Yet I see no images when I search for scale. In places you see what might be individuals, but overall it's like a mass scab. The repetitive location speaks of bug level intelligence though, not the more random spreads we see from fungus. Though, to be fair, fungus can take control of ants, and insects don't.

Having a sealed room might be costing you. Can't you forget co2 and get some air exchange? It doesn't sound like your yield uses it anyway.
 

Capt.Ahab

Feeding the ducks with a bun.
Veteran
I occasionally see this outdoors.
It will spread and eventually kill the infected branch or the whole plant if it is infecting the main stalk.
 

Hillbilly69

Well-known member
I've gotten this outdoors during humid years also, it's stem rot. I tried treating it the same way as powdery milder with spraying high PH water on it, but just slowed it down, didn't get rid of it. When you're done this run, get rid of all your soil and disinfect your entire room. Start over, and as Ca++ mentioned some air circulation would help.
 
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Smokeytime

New member
Some really great replies here and some that make my balls itch. I need to keep the room sealed due to smell and room temperatures. So far I think I’m going to start spraying with micronized sulfur. I used it a couple of years ago and wiped out a severe russet mite infestation. I am perpetual, so there’s no downtime to clean out the room. The only time I’ve shut down my room is when I got spider mites. For those I cleaned out the room, turned off the air conditioner Turned on the lights and cooked it for three days at 130°. That really speeds up the lifecycle of those little bastards and they had no food. It worked great. A couple years ago. I got bags of Coco that had gotten wet and dried out. Obviously there was some mildew in them. Like an idiot I went ahead and use them anyway. Some of the plants didn’t do so well. Wonder if that’s what started it all? I am looking forward to more feedback. Thanks guys!
 

Rgd

Well-known member
Veteran
how to get rid of it?

had it a couple times..its terrible

once it girdles the plant its good bye...

lots of air movement down there will help it not happen

but yeh...new soil , less RH,

AND better air circulation
 

Ca++

Well-known member
If a third of your yield has been missing for two years, then how much is resistance to shutting down costing.

Are you in pots? I would think with pots, it will go away with ventilation. If not ventilation, then air scrubbers that stop the airborne spread to the new pots coming in.

If it's a bed you have a vicious circle. You can treat the bed perhaps, but if it's still in the air, it will be straight back in again.

No space for a temporary holding tent? Some place to keep your stock while you physically remove everything contaminated that can't be bleached.

So many of us are seeing it outdoors, but not indoors, that there is clearly no room for it to breed in most indoor grows. I suspect you are reusing the media or working a bed.


If you really want a drench, then consider one that's microlife not poison. Something to shift the colony balance. It won't lead to eradication, but may offer enough control

I think I have seen this at the base of infected plants, but mainly at the junctions like in the pics. I will pay more attention. Outdoors I have basic protection plans, but this is just accepted.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I have seen this many times and the #1 cause is planting plants too deep in the soil container or in the ground.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I have considered the same thing creeper. I habitually plant my indoors to get branching at ground level though, and this isn't happening indoors. Almost everything I do is a cutting, so it's unavoidable anyway.

It could well be part of the problem, but it alone isn't leading to this. The issue needs to be present in the first place.

I might give them a lick of fungicide before I put them out, rather than waiting till the end of veg, when it's usually present. It never advances much, but it could be getting in before that buried stalk becomes a root. I will look at it this year, if the weather permits a crop.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I have seen this many times and the #1 cause is planting plants too deep in the soil container or in the ground.
Poor draining soil too, the basic problem is the water isn't draining appropriately. The plant tissue gets waterlogged and soft making for easy penetration by the fungus hyphae into the plant tissue.
 
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Capt.Ahab

Feeding the ducks with a bun.
Veteran
I see it manifest wherever the outer surface of the plant is damaged. Spots where a support rubs against the stem and where I popped off a shade leaf and a small "string" of bark came off below the leaf. It uses the open wound, no matter how small to get in and spread.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I see it manifest wherever the outer surface of the plant is damaged. Spots where a support rubs against the stem and where I popped off a shade leaf and a small "string" of bark came off below the leaf. It uses the open wound, no matter how small to get in and spread.
I don't know how I had forgotten this. I'm not sure I had even connected the dots. I see what's in the pic, and also something remarkably similar where branches rub the plant protection tubes I sometimes use. Rubbing causes a stronger response that might lead to more recognisable mold setting in. Its enough that I only use protection if I see evidence of many rabbits. Where I use cane supports, I treat the contact spot with fungicide regularly, but this scab is still likely to show. I have decided most ties are unsuitable, and use the wire coated with thick soft silicone, almost exclusively.

I think I see this a lot more than I had thought about. It's actually unavoidable at any of my 7 regular outdoor sites. It's amazing I don't see it indoors. It must be within the plant, picked up from the soil, just waiting for some weakness. I snap things indoors often enough, and might see a bit of roughness occasionally. Nothing to suggest it's in the air everywhere though.

I need to pay more attention. Perhaps when I do see it at a snap, there is a good chance of a lost head. I had just thought of it as a response to rough handing, but puzzle pieces are dropping now, in a game I didn't know I was playing.
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
All 6 strains infected
The closest I can find to it is Fusarium Wilt.

https://zombiegardens.com/cannabis-grow-rooms/cannabis-diseases/

"Fusarium wilt is most common in warm grow rooms and greenhouses. Recirculating nutrient solutions above 75° F (24° C) creates perfect conditions for Fusarium. The water and nutrient solution carries this disease with it when contaminated."


Maybe you can slice open one of the infected branches and see if the infection also spreads to/from inside the branch.
 
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