Room temps to high help!

[DurtyDoper1991]

5.5x11x7.5 grow room with 2k hps/8 inch exhaust and 8 inch fan reduced on air cooled lights. 200 cfm intake fan. Cant keep room under 86-88 lights on even though lung room is low 70s. Considering piping in cool winter air(michigan) on a electric damper/thermostat. Anybody do something similar?

 

[troutman]

Just lower the temperature on the furnace or heaters when the lights is on. The heat of the
grow room will then balance out with the lung room much easier. It's what I do to control
the temp in Winter.

Opening a window a little is ok if the temp is above 0C. Otherwise, your window may freeze open.

I've had that happen a few times already this Winter.

You then will have to run for the salt, rubbing alcohol or lukewarm water to unstuck the frozen window.

It's what I've done.

 

[HempKat]

What I've done in the past that worked pretty well for me was to have a separate fan for cooling the lights and since that's all it does it doesn't have to be terribly powerful in terms of CFMs. I would have the intake pulling in outside air feed it thru the lights and then blow it out of the room since the air would be contained separate from the room air by ducting and the sealed air cooled lights I didn't have to run a carbon scrubber on that air pathway. That would leave the main fan for exchanging room air alone and the only thing restricting it's flow would be the carbon scrubber. My guess is that between the cooling of two lights and eventually possibly passing thru a carbon scrubber that's putting too much resistance on your air exchange. Based on the size of your space 200 CFM's should be enough but that's without any restrictions. Now if running two separate fans doesn't work for you then you could always try bumping up the one fan you are using to something greater then 200CFM's although I don't know how much restriction that fan is experiencing so I can't say for sure how many more CFM's you might need to get the exchange rate up. Now another thing that could be an issue is I ran my set up in the Mid Atlantic region and although winters get somewhat cold here it's far more mild then Michigan, and yet I still got some condensation which in turn adds to the humidity of the room. I would think that if you did the same with the cold Michigan air you would get even more condensation so if you did it with a separate air path for cooling the lights you might want to just pull it from the lung room. 70 degrees with a strong enough fan pulling it through should be enough to pull that heat from the lights out of the room.

 

[Switcher56]

^^ what he said ^^
You are growing indoors, you have volunteered to become "mother nature"

PS: Trout he has a combination of issues... read here
https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijua...8048175-smokers-in-the-lung-room#post18048239

 

[f-e]

Adding to hemp cats excellent post, you have also reduced the 200mm fan in order to use the air cooled lights. I feel sure that pulling in outside air with another fan for them would be better. You pull in, and blow through the lights. So any air leaks in that system are fresh air entering your room, not smelly room air getting into your lights, and ultimately blown out somewhere.

I would like to address the state of the hydroponic fans many of us use. In the interests of selling us cheap rubbish, fans have been developed especially for us. Fans that can just about run a matching filter to 60% capacity, but have no hope when you start adding any other complexity to the run. Such as a bend. A reducer. A few meters of flexible ducting. Air cooled lights. Any one of these things, rather than a combination, leave these hydroponic fans just treading water. Propelling the air nowhere. They just sit there making noise. In car terms, wheel spinning. Making more noise as you add more power, but still not getting anywhere. We call this 'fan stall' when a fan just looses grip and spins on the spot. Car turbo's are a good example of this, where they spin much faster than the air flow requires and loose a grip on it. Then as they start to match, they almost whistle. Cho Choo Chooo Chooooo syncronise and work.
Like your car, we want a fan that offers some boost. We want a turbo not a desk fan in a tube. These hydroponic fans are cheap tat for tents, not pulling a vacuum on an entire building. No good for this technical job at all. All you should really need for 2000w is one decent 150mm fan. Though I do like 8s

You want/need a centrifugal duct fan. Something like an RVK. Each physical size comes with two motor choices. A1 or L1 with L1 the higher power. It doesn't matter what manufacturer, this is industry standard stuff. Reverse bladed centrifugal duct fans that interest us run from 100mm to 315mm A1 and L1. 'THIS IS THE WAY' and if you stray from the path, then expect substandard stuff by definition.
A 200mm L1 might set you back $200 but you will be pulling the door handle off as the air whistles through the gap like a vacuum cleaner. Your lights will start bunching up as you realise the duct needs to be hardpipe. You will have a proper fan.

These are a cheap supplier of the latest EC motor stuff. You will pay double for these in a grow store, and they don't even rebrand them
https://www.radonshop.com/VENTS-VK-EC-series-inline-centrifugal-fan
It has a dimmer built in. Just like LED lights, it's a screwdriver or a 0-10v or pwm control. They don't have a mains rumble as they don't run at 50/60hz. They convert to DC inside.
These fans don't have the same headline figures if you just look how much air they shift sat on your table. The point of these fan blade designs is to keep doing that figure as you add complications.
Example, I pull though a filter, then blow out another. I get more air through two filters using the right fan, than a hydroponics filter can get through just one.



Why you are posting, is because you can see everything should be right. I just know you have been scammed with ineffective kit.

 

[DurtyDoper1991]

This is great advice thanks everybody

 

[DurtyDoper1991]

f-e that was an very informative post thanks bro. I learned alot that I didnt know from that.

 

[HempKat]

If you get the proper rated fan for the system you run it thru (including everything that restricts it) to where you completely exchange the air in your room in 5 minutes then you'll see several positive things and this is what they mean when they talk about having a grow space dialed in (although a grow space dialed in doesn't mean everything is dialed in, you still have to get the plants themselves dialed in with proper water management, feeding the right nutrients etc.) When the grow space is dialed in the air is moving thru too fast for the temps to build up too much so temps will be under control, also moving the air thru that quickly will help keep your humidity under control. Additionally mold, pests and other unwanted things will have a very difficult time establishing themselves in your grow space.