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Preventing Botrytis.

C

Cookie monster

We live in a country where the grey menace thrives outdoors around this time of year mainly due to our cool wet climate.
There's probably not one of us who have grown outdoors that has'nt suffered and lost plants and potential harvests because of the horrible grey plague.

While we cant do anything about the weather we can help our plants and give them a fighting chance by using anti-fungal agents ( non-systemic ), training, keeping our gardens clean and hygenic and by growing mould resistant strains.

Here's what I'm doing this year to help the plants out.

^ is a recipe for disaster for the following reasons.

1. the plant is too bushy, there is minimal airflow between the branches.
2.weeds and organic matter are surrounding he plant,when they die back in a month or so they will provide a great home for botrytis.
3.lower branches are too close to the soil and decomposing organic matter.


^ these pics are of the same plant after preventivate measure were taken.

Every weed and bit of organic matter was cleared and the soil was left bare,roots were removed and the soil was treated with Serenade in an attempt to kill any spores remaining.
The bare earth was then covered with weed control fabric and then covered with plastic sheeting.
Weed control fabric is pourous so the layer of plastic on top prevents rain from splashing the spores in the soil onto the plant.

lower branches were removed and the cuts were cleanes with hydrogen peroxide before using a sealing agent.

The plant was then trained to improve airflow between the branches.
The sun travels east to west so the brances that were shaded by the hedge were either removed or trained into a position where they will recieve more direct sunlight.
Plants will sway in the wind so just using rope/twine or coated wire will chaff the branches.
I use hemp twine treated with armillox and old bicycle inner tube to tie on to.
There is a bit of give in the rubber which will help in times of high winds and spores wont get a foothold on it's smooth surface nor will it chaff the branch.
I used bamboo stakes because of it's resistance to mould or rot and it's smooth surface will be washed clean in the rain.

Apart from that I'm using Mycostop and Serenade alternating on a weekly basis on the plant itself.
The plastic is given a daily wash with hydrogen peroxide,it breaks down quickly and wont harm the plant.

Another important thing to remember is to treat the plants surrounding your MJ plants with anti-fungal solutions, if it's not an eddible or smokable plant use a good strong systemic spray.

I hope this is of some help to you guys who brave the elements and try to grow outdoors.
Stay safe and happy all :wave:
 
G

Guest 147054

Thanks cookie. Ill def be taking what you said into account.
 

Hundred Gram Oz

Our Work is Never Over
Veteran
Unfortunately on our wee island mold is a major problem for outdoor growers, always remove all dead leaves, if you see any leaves (dead or alive) laying on the ground around your garden then GET RID OF THEM, dead leaves and moisture are a bubbling cauldron for mold. Never water at night, make sure you water first thing in the morning, high humidity is molds best friend, mold cannot grow easily at humidity levels below 50% so keep that in mind.

Make up some sprays, a real good spray is a baking soda, horticulture oil, and water mix, baking soda is a contact fungicide and will kill the mold in minutes. Keep in mind that mold will show resistance so don't use bicarbonate as your only defensive spray, there are a few other organic mixes out there, you should do some research. Mold will flourish when giving a chance and will destroy your garden so it's up to you to stop it at any and every chance you get.

HGO
 
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Hundred Gram Oz

Our Work is Never Over
Veteran
Cookie I'm going to go ahead and make this thread a sticky, mold is a major killer for us Irish outdoor growers. Feel free to pack this thread full of information folks :)

HGO
 
C

Cookie monster

Some more tid bits of info,

Copper sulphate sprays are used on food crops to prevent and control botrytis as is bordeaux mixture (copper sulphate+lime).

Training plants to ensure that buds and leaves receive more light reduces the chances of botrytis getting a foot hold as it prefers to grow in shaded conditions like those found under the canopy of our outdoor plants.

Of interest to indoor growers is that studys on tomatoes grown in greenhouses have shown that botrytis is not a big fan of UV light.

Rows of toms were illuminated with UV lights ( black lights) for a period 3 times a day.
Compared to untreated plants infection rates were lower.

When I'm not so stoned and tired I'll edit the post with details and links
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
UV lights kill bud rot? thats pretty cool....i havent had botrytis yet but ive had plenty of Powder Mildew. my key now is simply keeping humidity down. when running a soil setup, with 2 days between waterings, it really keeps humidity down below 40%.

i havent seen any mold on this crop yet..crosses fingers.
 
C

Cookie monster

UV lights kill bud rot? thats pretty cool....

I thought so too :), it might go to explain why indoors it always starts on the inside of the bud and rarely on the exposed stem as can happen outdoors.

A lot of the botrytis cures also work on PM.
 

greenjoint

New member
just use a sulphur hotbox cures all the above The Hotbox Sulfume sulphur vapouriser helps to protect crops from fungal diseases such as Mildew, Botrytis and Black Spot. It also inhibits the spread of greenhouse pests.
 
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B

BOSCO

just use a sulphur hotbox cures all the above The Hotbox Sulfume sulphur vapouriser helps to protect crops from fungal diseases such as Mildew, Botrytis and Black Spot. It also inhibits the spread of greenhouse pests.

Hiya Greenjoint :wave:
Is that safe to use around pets and wildlife?
 
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B

BOSCO

i dont keep any pets or wildlife in my grow room

Thats all well and good but the thread going by the first post is aimed at outdoor growers, and to be honest if you have botrytis indoors it will be far cheaper to invest a few quid in some extra extraction or a cheap dehumidifier rather than a sulphur machine.

Looking at the various pot boards you seem to have some sort of association with this shop seems as how on at least 3 forums your plugging this shop?

Here's the link you need if you want to advertise growshops
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=193688
 
B

BOSCO

as for the 11 messages re the haters on this forum spot on lads your dead right it was a good test

Nothing to do with haters friend, take a good look at the prices of grow gear in the shops in this country compared to other countries or online shops, ebay ect ect.

Take mylar for example, I've seen it in the shops for 10-12 euro per meter, it normally comes in 100m rolls which retails at just over 300 euro online including shipping.

10-12 euro per meter x 100= a ridiculous mark up for the grow shop.....haters or smart shoppers?

May I also add that the only thing you have contributed to the Irish forums is or ICMAG in general is attempting to direct business to D.I.G. the same goes for the other canna forums you've posted on.
 

Hottish

Active member
We live in a country where the grey menace thrives outdoors around this time of year mainly due to our cool wet climate.
There's probably not one of us who have grown outdoors that has'nt suffered and lost plants and potential harvests because of the horrible grey plague.

While we cant do anything about the weather we can help our plants and give them a fighting chance by using anti-fungal agents ( non-systemic ), training, keeping our gardens clean and hygenic and by growing mould resistant strains.

Here's what I'm doing this year to help the plants out.
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=16261&pictureid=417938&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]
^ is a recipe for disaster for the following reasons.

1. the plant is too bushy, there is minimal airflow between the branches.
2.weeds and organic matter are surrounding he plant,when they die back in a month or so they will provide a great home for botrytis.
3.lower branches are too close to the soil and decomposing organic matter.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=16261&pictureid=428544&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=16261&pictureid=428543&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]
^ these pics are of the same plant after preventivate measure were taken.

Every weed and bit of organic matter was cleared and the soil was left bare,roots were removed and the soil was treated with Serenade in an attempt to kill any spores remaining.
The bare earth was then covered with weed control fabric and then covered with plastic sheeting.
Weed control fabric is pourous so the layer of plastic on top prevents rain from splashing the spores in the soil onto the plant.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=16261&pictureid=428545&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] lower branches were removed and the cuts were cleanes with hydrogen peroxide before using a sealing agent.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=16261&pictureid=428544&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] The plant was then trained to improve airflow between the branches.
The sun travels east to west so the brances that were shaded by the hedge were either removed or trained into a position where they will recieve more direct sunlight.
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=16261&pictureid=428546&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] Plants will sway in the wind so just using rope/twine or coated wire will chaff the branches.
I use hemp twine treated with armillox and old bicycle inner tube to tie on to.
There is a bit of give in the rubber which will help in times of high winds and spores wont get a foothold on it's smooth surface nor will it chaff the branch.
I used bamboo stakes because of it's resistance to mould or rot and it's smooth surface will be washed clean in the rain.

Apart from that I'm using Mycostop and Serenade alternating on a weekly basis on the plant itself.
The plastic is given a daily wash with hydrogen peroxide,it breaks down quickly and wont harm the plant.

Another important thing to remember is to treat the plants surrounding your MJ plants with anti-fungal solutions, if it's not an eddible or smokable plant use a good strong systemic spray.

I hope this is of some help to you guys who brave the elements and try to grow outdoors.
Stay safe and happy all :wave:
Search for Reds Biowar on ebay he is in Ireland ,
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
hey guys i wanted to share some things about bud rot that i been studying (12hrs a day at least) hardcore on since last years outdoor grow was a nite mare..i wanted to understand how botrytis cinerea worked..i wanted to get to know the enemy so to speak so i could better equip myself to beat it..i will be on the prevention spray plan this year hardcore! with neem oil and karnaja oil in veg..neem is a systemic as well so it will protect us from bug damage and PM which is like a open door to bud rot spores to land and start the infection process.. 1.essential oils thyme,clover,rosemary will prevent the spores from ever being able to take hold..2. SNS244c that has these mixed and it comes as a concertrate and a ready to use and part of this mix is also a systemic..the company is called sierra natural science..im also gonna buy oregano and add a drop or 2 to the Sns244c..3 actinovate is another fourm of bacteria kinda like sernade but differnt modes of action that when sprayed grows around the foliage of our ladys and when the spore lands it eats it up..i also suggest u guys read this thread in sig..it was created by a very knowledable grower that has since passed..i also use greencure on the advice from this thread last year and it worked to let me flower out some my strains but i was already infected with this shit when i found ICmag and the fourm so this year will be all about prevenative measure..all this stuff is organic or botanicals so no shit that is harmful chemicals..also here is a few thread on here that i found u guys might find interesting to read as well..if i can help anyone not go thur what i did last year then dont hesitate to hit me up..oh i almost forgot i will be useing protekt(potassium silica) as well it helps thicken the cell walls of our ladys and makes the plant more resisant to bugs,fungi and drought..i just now found some info on stylet oil that says its good for botrytis so i will be doing more studying on this but u guys can look as well

Organic JMS Stylet-Oil! Organic JMS Stylet-Oil contains the same high purity base oil that kills powdery mildew on contact, controls plant feeding mite populations and is safe for field workers and the environment.

With its new advanced emulsification system, Organic JMS Stylet-Oil uses only the safest inert ingredients on EPA’s List 4, — but that’s not all. Each component of Organic Stylet-Oil’s formulation meets or exceeds “Food Grade Quality” standards making it a safe, environmentally friendly white oil formulation. Organic JMS Stylet-Oil is one of the few tools organic growers have that can control a number of pests — certain fungal diseases, insects, mites, plus certain poty viruses — with a single application!

Organic JMS Stylet-Oil also acts as an environmentally safe alternative to sulfur for both insect and disease control. Sulfur can evaporate into the atmosphere to combine with water resulting in acid rain, but Organic JMS Stylet-Oil stays on your crops, where you need it. Another plus is that, unlike sulfur, Organic JMS Stylet-Oil is not volatile in temperatures below 65 degrees F, making it the perfect early-season powdery mildew control alternative.

• OMRI Listed
• Safe to Workers and the Environment
• Can be used as a Fungicide, Insecticide and for Virus Control
• Colorless, Tasteless and Odorless
• “Food Grade Quality”
• Not as Harmful to Beneficial Insects
• No Pre-Harvest Interval
• Economical and Easy to Use

p.s aloe vera powder will activate the SAR of our ladies..one other thing to read about is google aspirn water

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=25596
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=239283
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=275670
http://www.ccsenet.org/journal/index.php/jfr/article/view/21367--essential oil thread on Botrytis cin..
 
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