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Neville’s Haze x C5 Mango

maryjaneismyfre

Well-known member
Veteran
Its all down to the light..modern double enders are as or more efficient as the best LEDS, but they emit their light out 360 degrees while led is down to the crop..LED only win on efficiency there, lumen/watt they are on par with each other, but HPS must reflect half the light back, though I find HPS has better penetration but it all depends on the amount of light you giving, HPS bigger single source of light, LED more even spread..If you match your HPS wattage and forget about the salesmen speak BS about saving power and less heat etc..and aim for same light spread over the canopy, then you score..as you will need slightly less wattage to achieve the same even spread of light and if going for super high PAR then you get the penetration..but the difference in wattage is minimal and the resulting difference in heat also minimal..thats what I found..or one can believe the salesmen about how uber more efficient they are, and put in less light than optimal and get smaller buds that are really compact LOL..I've also seen donkey dicks long as your arm under LED, its all down to the par and inverse square law at the end of the day..with any light there is only a usable zone that is really productive and its about how you fill that space..In greenhouses you work around that sort of, with light diffusion, and inverse square law applied to the sun means no real drop off of light except where the plant is shading itself, so one grows them taller..LEDS wont suit your style of growing star, with your big trees and vertical lamps..though with a roof of LED bars and a high density sea of green of NevilsC5 mango clones planted straight into flower..you'd break the yield records..have to dripfeed or flood/drain..be crazy with a 3-6ft thick solid lawn of purple haze..
 

herbgreen

Active member
Veteran
And I know you grow big ;) I’ve been HPS since 1997 and I’ve never seen the need to change…side note I’ve watched the LED industry grow and grow and grow and see more people go over and over and I don’t like what I see Although I do understand why many people use them… usually about temperature control &the efficiency of the electrical usage & yes they work but the buds are generally inferior to HPS (at least to my eyes) I’ve given local guys clones from my plants and basically their tent grows with LED produce flowers that are almost unrecognizable to the parent plants … they always seem more compact and more golf ball like…I don’t know I could be wrong:dunno:
No, youre not wrong

The leds come with cal/mag problems and distance issues...And bizzare light to boggle your eyes !

And no heat......provide your own heat!

HID is the only thing .....Its just not the same otherwise

Glad you got the Hortilux
 

flower~power

~Star~Crash~
ICMag Donor
Veteran
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flower~power

~Star~Crash~
ICMag Donor
Veteran
She’s really sensitive to nutrients ..Ideally should have her own lightweight mix of nutes , being only girl in a room of 10 other platinum Kush breath plants (the PKB Enjoys full strength feeds ..
 

flower~power

~Star~Crash~
ICMag Donor
Veteran
.If you match your HPS wattage and forget about the salesmen speak BS about saving power and less heat etc..and aim for same light spread over the canopy, then you score..as you will need slightly less wattage to achieve the same even spread of light and if going for super high PAR then you get the penetration..but the difference in wattage is minimal and the resulting difference in heat also minimal..thats what I found..
Got my new bulbs :woohoo:they came before I could even exhale!
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LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
I missed the super hps last run keep having issues with the led in veg some of it was due to the lack of heat but other things probably too. Those Horti's always did the job big fat colas.

The led do fantastic when its a normally warm environment. HPS vert kills them on yeild if done proper. The little led had very nice quality but that was never an issue with hps.
 
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flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
What rH can you keep the rooms at with lights on and off?

I am practicing running sativas with some of JohnnyChicago's NLH. Got one tall girl in there. Yours, er I mean his, er I mean ICMag Haze, is up next. I am putting in microbes, and supercarb (Puregold), besides the 6.4 pH, cal-mag plus, and some epsom salts by top-water a couple times a week.

 

herbgreen

Active member
Veteran
Hey, I noticed Grow Green Michigan has sale going with free shipping on their bulbs

save some money or stock up for the future ...Amazon wont mind if you send em back either

 

flower~power

~Star~Crash~
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I got them from Amazon but the seller was grow green MI I guess I missed out they charged me full price
 

flower~power

~Star~Crash~
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The power is out but New York State electric and gas online system is telling me that it’s on and it’s been restored such a pain in the ass
 

herbgreen

Active member
Veteran
Found it for a better price... is one of the reasons to return things on amazon

If they have free returns....save the 100bucks

amazon is crazy

They do have a zero hassle returns
 

herbgreen

Active member
Veteran
Yeah, does sound like a bigger problem

For sure you need to get generator

I would look into Solar and wind but that's expensive up front cost

I think it would really excellent

You can even get paid by the power company in some states!

With the inflationary in power and fuel

Solar subsidies from the govt

I would find a cheap way to do it...lookup "homesteading"

Thats where every DIY trick to off grid sustainability including solar and wind power, water catchment systems, hukleculture and no -till organic gardening

All the stuff to survive :rasta:

You may as well be off the grid ATM

Rainwaters a trip


I swear there is something to rainwater collection and figure out how to store it

Gravity fed water systems
 

maryjaneismyfre

Well-known member
Veteran
We get power outages sometimes scheduled 4 times a day! Our corrupt government ran the power company into the ground as it was a lucrative cashcow gravy train to ride on..power plant construction deals that were mega inflated and underperforming, or still not online ten years after due date, or corrupt deals with coal/uranium etc mine owners, or just buying mines to inflate costs in government dealings..etc..an endless list of corrupt fucks and their dealings. 15 years now or something of it getting progressively worse. Our diesel bill on the farm is scary and generators scary loud but it is a pleasure having complete power backup for something between 500kw and 1000kw's worth but I turned all the heating off now for winter in greenhouses and put lighting and crops down to absolute minimum, mild elnino winter this year so even though in the middle of winter its ok. The moms in the unheated low tech house were looking the best of all of them even though some mornings its getting down to 5 degrees centi, so I just turned heating for all other areas off and save money and let the tough survive. I got moms on a gaslamp schedule now also to save power and they mostly all adjusted fine now and we passed the winter solstice, they all think its mid summer, one or two refuse to not flower so those are not worth production as those moms in 18/6 would probably always want to trigger an autoflower if you let them get potbound or something and we have way too strains so in the bin they go.

Tapwater can be beautiful, ours is, or it can be horrendous, as it is on the other side of the city LOL..Rainwater is pukka..for years and years I only drank springwater, collected my drinking water in the city from springs to drink, or stayed in the rainforest with a mineral water bottling plant down the road and a borehole into an ancient aquifer that was the ultimate sweet water than anything thrives in..I defineately felt better for drinking only clean living water for a long time. Now I am far from all that..its disgusting borehole, dam water, or tap water so I just make tea or sugary juice. Shit gotta do what you gotta do sometimes..

Fly low, its all genetics and environment at the end of the day, geneticswise these are quick sativas relatively that flower is growing so they start the resin earlier, but still a week or two later than a indica leaning hybrid, the more true hazes or more haze leaning hybrids would start later, yours are probably still to come. I find these plants less demanding on their feeding but more sensitive to the N, I run a low N formula generally, with all other ratios of elements dialed in so less N needed, the haze hybrids love my feed recipe that I generally use, if they have higher N then they not sure to flower fully or not and veg more and give leafier growth that wants to foxtail more and continue to stretch during flower more and these stretch enough as it is LOL, and also put on frost later and swell later. I run a mid - lower EC normally EC 1.6-2.0 season or temps depending, end flower that will drop to 1.4-1.2 as I drop the N at the end further and increase PK. In winter I run higher EC. That in my experience has been most of the cause of nute issues when changing from HPS to LED and guys put in less wattage so light and temps total are less, transpiration less so actually one must run higher EC, plant will want higher PPMs of salts relative to water, to keep the osmotic flow through the roots to leaf tips moving along at the same or similar pace, this is driven by hydraulics and the transpiration from leaf surfaces and less temps and less light, less transpiration so less movement of water relative to time, but if light is still high and CO2 good, the growth will only be marginally less so food demands still high, hence food concentration to water to drive osmosis at similar pace, will be higher, water concentration lower, therefore raise EC, lower volume generally..then all the LED deficiencies suddenly dissappear cuz ones not underfeeding the plant as it drinks much less..but letting runoff values guide your path.

Lost, just try an EC of maybe like 0.4 higher to id say max 0.6 higher than you were running under HPS and water a bit less steering yourself based on your runoff volume relative to feed volume and runoff EC relative to feed EC..As or if runoff EC climbs daily in a trajectory higher than feed, either drop feed EC or one must increase volume, if runoff volume higher than 30-40% of feed and or climbing, then one can drop EC and volume slightly of feed to get in the zone, if runoff volume low less than 25%-10% lets say then increase feed volume. If EC drops and runoff good, 15-30% increase feed EC..Im normally aiming for 1.6-2.0 runoff and watching the direction its heading in high light high temps, and im looking for runoff 2.0-2.4 or so in runoff in lower light or lower temp environment. If you do that then light source should not matter too much, I have to produce in winter light, summer light, under LED, HPS and CMH...and mixed light and its all down to how the lights are affecting the environment and how that affects the plant, and you adjust accordingly. The basics of this was taught to me by hydroponic vegetable farmers 20 years back and nothings changed, we just got more lights to play with now, back then it was winter light or summer light but principles the same. Once you got your balanced diet worked out, ratios all good between elements, then its just adjusting your PPMS and feed volume up or down to match how the different lights/sun has changed the environment. LED wont require more of this or more of that element compared to another light IME, but it will require higher PPMs of everything compared to water, hence higher EC, if you put in less wattage of light compared to the HID they replaced..If you put in same or higher wattage LOL you might have to drop EC and increase horizontal airflow LOL..its all a dynamic..and reaching the happy hum where everything sings in harmony.
 
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LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
What rH can you keep the rooms at with lights on and off?

I am practicing running sativas with some of JohnnyChicago's NLH. Got one tall girl in there. Yours, er I mean his, er I mean ICMag Haze, is up next. I am putting in microbes, and supercarb (Puregold), besides the 6.4 pH, cal-mag plus, and some epsom salts by top-water a couple times a week.

Not to spam but heres the VPD I refer to when in doubt. Just getting it close is good.

I am a firm believer in fresh air maybe that is an issue.... The bigger the garden the more important without co2 sups but I havent sup'd in decades no need with enough fresh air. Dumping air out a window/subfloor/crawl space/attic will draw fresh air to the room its dumping out of. Of course you can pre filter it with a carbon filter and I even used a rubbermaid with an ozonator in in with fittings and duct tape inline as well, timed for safety.

If your plants are nice green with no burns no tip curl and no visual deficiency anything else its genetics not because of something you are/arent doing.
 

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