You can't run a higher ec with Sativa's with LED. Issues were mainly in veg nearly all. Couldnt hit a sweet spot either too much or too little. last time I dropped a dialed 600 horti in to catch them up and went back to led at flip. Worked out. Again only have had issues in veg for some reason. I didnt really with the bigger mars but this little mom/veg tent 2.5x2.5 w a 250w qb has the issues always. I have better luck with a single cfl even so its something somewhere (qeue the laughing yes I said single cfl for moms)....I digress.We get power outages sometimes scheduled 4 times a day! Our corrupt government ran the power company into the ground as it was a lucrative cashcow gravy train to ride on..power plant construction deals that were mega inflated and underperforming, or still not online ten years after due date, or corrupt deals with coal/uranium etc mine owners, or just buying mines to inflate costs in government dealings..etc..an endless list of corrupt fucks and their dealings. 15 years now or something of it getting progressively worse. Our diesel bill on the farm is scary and generators scary loud but it is a pleasure having complete power backup for something between 500kw and 1000kw's worth but I turned all the heating off now for winter in greenhouses and put lighting and crops down to absolute minimum, mild elnino winter this year so even though in the middle of winter its ok. The moms in the unheated low tech house were looking the best of all of them even though some mornings its getting down to 5 degrees centi, so I just turned heating for all other areas off and save money and let the tough survive. I got moms on a gaslamp schedule now also to save power and they mostly all adjusted fine now and we passed the winter solstice, they all think its mid summer, one or two refuse to not flower so those are not worth production as those moms in 18/6 would probably always want to trigger an autoflower if you let them get potbound or something and we have way too strains so in the bin they go.
Tapwater can be beautiful, ours is, or it can be horrendous, as it is on the other side of the city LOL..Rainwater is pukka..for years and years I only drank springwater, collected my drinking water in the city from springs to drink, or stayed in the rainforest with a mineral water bottling plant down the road and a borehole into an ancient aquifer that was the ultimate sweet water than anything thrives in..I defineately felt better for drinking only clean living water for a long time. Now I am far from all that..its disgusting borehole, dam water, or tap water so I just make tea or sugary juice. Shit gotta do what you gotta do sometimes..
Fly low, its all genetics and environment at the end of the day, geneticswise these are quick sativas relatively that flower is growing so they start the resin earlier, but still a week or two later than a indica leaning hybrid, the more true hazes or more haze leaning hybrids would start later, yours are probably still to come. I find these plants less demanding on their feeding but more sensitive to the N, I run a low N formula generally, with all other ratios of elements dialed in so less N needed, the haze hybrids love my feed recipe that I generally use, if they have higher N then they not sure to flower fully or not and veg more and give leafier growth that wants to foxtail more and continue to stretch during flower more and these stretch enough as it is LOL, and also put on frost later and swell later. I run a mid - lower EC normally EC 1.6-2.0 season or temps depending, end flower that will drop to 1.4-1.2 as I drop the N at the end further and increase PK. In winter I run higher EC. That in my experience has been most of the cause of nute issues when changing from HPS to LED and guys put in less wattage so light and temps total are less, transpiration less so actually one must run higher EC, plant will want higher PPMs of salts relative to water, to keep the osmotic flow through the roots to leaf tips moving along at the same or similar pace, this is driven by hydraulics and the transpiration from leaf surfaces and less temps and less light, less transpiration so less movement of water relative to time, but if light is still high and CO2 good, the growth will only be marginally less so food demands still high, hence food concentration to water to drive osmosis at similar pace, will be higher, water concentration lower, therefore raise EC, lower volume generally..then all the LED deficiencies suddenly dissappear cuz ones not underfeeding the plant as it drinks much less..but letting runoff values guide your path.
Lost, just try an EC of maybe like 0.4 higher to id say max 0.6 higher than you were running under HPS and water a bit less steering yourself based on your runoff volume relative to feed volume and runoff EC relative to feed EC..As or if runoff EC climbs daily in a trajectory higher than feed, either drop feed EC or one must increase volume, if runoff volume higher than 30-40% of feed and or climbing, then one can drop EC and volume slightly of feed to get in the zone, if runoff volume low less than 25%-10% lets say then increase feed volume. If EC drops and runoff good, 15-30% increase feed EC..Im normally aiming for 1.6-2.0 runoff and watching the direction its heading in high light high temps, and im looking for runoff 2.0-2.4 or so in runoff in lower light or lower temp environment. If you do that then light source should not matter too much, I have to produce in winter light, summer light, under LED, HPS and CMH...and mixed light and its all down to how the lights are affecting the environment and how that affects the plant, and you adjust accordingly. The basics of this was taught to me by hydroponic vegetable farmers 20 years back and nothings changed, we just got more lights to play with now, back then it was winter light or summer light but principles the same. Once you got your balanced diet worked out, ratios all good between elements, then its just adjusting your PPMS and feed volume up or down to match how the different lights/sun has changed the environment. LED wont require more of this or more of that element compared to another light IME, but it will require higher PPMs of everything compared to water, hence higher EC, if you put in less wattage of light compared to the HID they replaced..If you put in same or higher wattage LOL you might have to drop EC and increase horizontal airflow LOL..its all a dynamic..and reaching the happy hum where everything sings in harmony.
Ah root zone temp. That has to be part of it I think most was in coldest part of the winter night temps into the 50's and you know how saturated coco gets when its cold. HPS warms it up alot more than any led can get to being that far from the light. Just doesnt penetrate enough to do much if anything....