Need recommendations For Electric Trolling Motor, Trolling Gate for primary outboard, Fuel-Water Separator/filter assembly, and more

[moose eater]

Rigging up a smaller but worthy lake boat.

Time to stop trying to slow the idle on my ancient 35-hp outboard, and either hook up a trolling plate, and/or an electric trolling motor; maybe both. Probably both.

So, best electric trolling motor with at least 40-45 lbs. of thrust? Without breaking the bank?

Best, most effective fuel-water separator & filter assembly (combination) with a clear fuel bowl, and without creating any substantial pressures in the fuel line, for an outboard that at 3/4+ throttle is drinking about 4+ gallons/hour?

Auxiliary motor mount? The primary power on the boat now is a well-maintained 35-hp, long or extra-long shaft 2-stroke. Older than any of my adult kids. Runs decent now, mostly because we haven't taken it out to the middle of nowhere, for it to screw up when we least suspect it. I also have a couple of older short-shaft OMC motors (a 1975 Evinrude 9.9-hp that's pre-electronic ignition), and a Johnson 15-hp with electronic ignition. I can either mount an auxiliary/kicker mount such as to accommodate the short shafts on the lesser motors, or I could potentially find a good, longer lower unit to slap on the 15-hp and keep the mount at similar level as the height of the top of the transom.

For battery (batteries), I'd like something that either by itself swapped out with back-ups over time, something that will effectively power a 40-50 lb. thrust trolling motor for at LEAST several hours, if not more. Again, without breaking the bank... So, lead/acid batteries and Acid-Glass batteries are more likely in my shopping/budget than the newer lithium deep-cycle batteries for this purpose, some of which run into the $3,000 range. OUCH!! And unnecessary, in my less-than-fully-educated opinion where this subject is concerned.

I have 1-1/2 months to get this rigged up, so I can troll remote places by myself, have plenty of back-up power in the event of a repeat of our near -annual breakdowns, as it's doubtful I'll have my 1st mate/youngest son/boat mechanic on board when I journey to remote lakes this Summer.

 

[Cvh]

Did you manage to get one?

 

[moose eater]

Did you manage to get one?

No. I've been too busy and somewhat demotivated due to chores, projects, and familial unrest/uncertainty, and in the initial list above, I may have left out the fuel-water separator/filter, too.

Still needing to get the items gathered, then installed, and figure out the rest of the trip.

Thanks for asking, though.

 

[Switcher56]

Rigging up a smaller but worthy lake boat.

Time to stop trying to slow the idle on my ancient 35-hp outboard, and either hook up a trolling plate, and/or an electric trolling motor; maybe both. Probably both.

So, best electric trolling motor with at least 40-45 lbs. of thrust? Without breaking the bank?

Best, most effective fuel-water separator & filter assembly (combination) with a clear fuel bowl, and without creating any substantial pressures in the fuel line, for an outboard that at 3/4+ throttle is drinking about 4+ gallons/hour?

Auxiliary motor mount? The primary power on the boat now is a well-maintained 25-hp, long or extra-long shaft 2-stroke. Older than any of my adult kids. Runs decent now, mostly because we haven't taken it out to the middle of nowhere, for it to screw up when we least suspect it. I also have a couple of older short-shaft OMC motors (a 1975 Evinrude 9.9-hp that's pre-electronic ignition), and a Johnson 15-hp with electronic ignition. I can either mount an auxiliary/kicker mount such as to accommodate the short shafts on the lesser motors, or I could potentially find a good, longer lower unit to slap on the 15-hp and keep the mount at similar level as the height of the top of the transom.

For battery (batteries), I'd like something that either by itself swapped out with back-ups over time, something that will effectively power a 40-50 lb. thrust trolling motor for at LEAST several hours, if not more. Again, without breaking the bank... So, lead/acid batteries and Acid-Glass batteries are more likely in my shopping/budget than the newer lithium deep-cycle batteries for this purpose, some of which run into the $3,000 range. OUCH!! And unnecessary, in my less-than-fully-educated opinion where this subject is concerned.

I have 1-1/2 months to get this rigged up, so I can troll remote places by myself, have plenty of back-up power in the event of a repeat of our near -annual breakdowns, as it's doubtful I'll have my 1st mate/youngest son/boat mechanic on board when I journey to remote lakes this Summer.

How did I miss this?

I owned a Minkota and it is a good motor. You do pay for quality though. Mine was a 20 #er (canoe).

For trolling, a deep cycle is a must, especially what you are expecting out of it (hrs). TBS, lithium is not the end all and be all. It is the future, but a "pushed" future. For example, your car battery will last 10 yrs. BS! Unless someone has done something that I don't know about. Lithium is only good for 300-500 charges, depending on the quality. Then you need to replace them and, the kicker, you simply can't put it back into the ground. So a simple no maintenance L&A batt will do, but deep cycle.

For longevity, you could also hook 2 batts up in parallel (if you have room), increases their overall effectiveness by a factor of 1.5

 

[moose eater]

How did I miss this?

I owned a Minkota and it is a good motor. You do pay for quality though. Mine was a 20 #er (canoe).

For trolling, a deep cycle is a must, especially what you are expecting out of it (hrs). TBS, lithium is not the end all and be all. It is the future, but a "pushed" future. For example, your car battery will last 10 yrs. BS! Unless someone has done something that I don't know about. Lithium is only good for 300-500 charges, depending on the quality. Then you need to replace them and, the kicker, you simply can't put it back into the ground. So a simple no maintenance L&A batt will do, but deep cycle.

For longevity, you could also hook 2 batts up in parallel (if you have room), increases their overall effectiveness by a factor of 1.5

Thanks, Switcher.

Looking for a 40-50-lb. thrust, and from my research, Minnkota makes several different classes of trolling motor?

Some of them had very good reviews, while others were not too hot.

I read a fair bit about 12-volt DC, versus 24-volt and 36-volt DC trolling motors, and looked at the lithium and lithium phosphorous batteries as well. For price purposes, unless someone else comes forth with a better idea, for now I've settled on the 12-volt trolling motors. 24-volt and 36-volt are often LOTS more $$.

When looking at a 170 or 200-amp hour battery in traditional lead-acid, and seeing the weight at near 80-lbs., versus the lithium phosphorous batteries at about 1/4 to 1`/3 of that weight, the newer stuff looks attractive. But then the price tag scares a person a bit. Spending $2,000 to $3,000 on such a battery is not6 practiccal at5 the moment, so either a hybrid battery, or a traditional lead-acid battery is what I have in mind now.

Still need to obtain and plumb in a fuel and water separator filter system, and I don't want one that measurably increases pressure on the fuel line. So, though my motor on the primary power likely only sucks 3-5 gallons an hour, I'm looking at filter systems that are rated for 70-90 gph, to minimize the difficulty of the fuel pump getting the fuel frmo the tank to the motor.

Also looking for a trolling plate for the primary outboard, or to adapt to one of my older OMC kickers. Mixed reviews on the trolling plates. Maybe look into the parachute shaped trolling anchors outof cloth instead; never used any of them, so information there is helpful too.

Thanks again for the reply.

 

[Switcher56]

Thanks, Switcher.

Looking for a 40-50-lb. thrust, and from my research, Minnkota makes several different classes of trolling motor?

Some of them had very good reviews, while others were not too hot.

I read a fair bit about 12-volt DC, versus 24-volt and 36-volt DC trolling motors, and looked at the lithium and lithium phosphorous batteries as well. For price purposes, unless someone else comes forth with a better idea, for now I've settled on the 12-volt trolling motors. 24-volt and 36-volt are often LOTS more $$.

When looking at a 170 or 200-amp hour battery in traditional lead-acid, and seeing the weight at near 80-lbs., versus the lithium phosphorous batteries at about 1/4 to 1`/3 of that weight, the newer stuff looks attractive. But then the price tag scares a person a bit. Spending $2,000 to $3,000 on such a battery is not6 practiccal at5 the moment, so either a hybrid battery, or a traditional lead-acid battery is what I have in mind now.

Still need to obtain and plumb in a fuel and water separator filter system, and I don't want one that measurably increases pressure on the fuel line. So, though my motor on the primary power likely only sucks 3-5 gallons an hour, I'm looking at filter systems that are rated for 70-90 gph, to minimize the difficulty of the fuel pump getting the fuel frmo the tank to the motor.

Also looking for a trolling plate for the primary outboard, or to adapt to one of my older OMC kickers. Mixed reviews on the trolling plates. Maybe look into the parachute shaped trolling anchors outof cloth instead; never used any of them, so information there is helpful too.

Thanks again for the reply.

Cool beans. I was going to mention the trolling anchor/parachute. I omitted it because you mentioned a "trolling plate", which I am not familiar with.

 

[moose eater]

Cool beans. I was going to mention the trolling anchor/parachute. I omitted it because you mentioned a "trolling plate", which I am not familiar with.

The trolling plate typically is a relatively flat 'plate' (come in various overall shapes for perimeter of plate) that pivots down to partially block the thrust off the propeller, with some of the 'plates' from some manufacturers being hinged mid-way with spring, and performing similarly to the reverse bucket or cup on a jet boat, but without truly reversing the thrust.

 

[moose eater]

Finding a reliable, good quality auxiliary outboard motor mount to install on one sode or the other of the stern for the kicker motor is turning into a real pain in the ass.

Everybody claims their product is the cat's meow.. then I read the customer reviews, and.... humans!

And for a decent unit, hopefully decent, anyway, they want between $200 and $400.

I just want to hang a 5-hp or 6-hp, long-shaft, 4-stroke kicker, or maybe a 15-hp 2-stroke OMC short-shaft motor off the back in case primary power dies a distance from the launch, but per some of the reviews, my motor might not still be with me when we reach the fishing holes.

 

[moose eater]

Got the kicker bracket mounted, and went a bit overboard on weight capacity; I'm hanging a 54 lb. Suzuki 6-hp long-shaft off of it, and its rated to 263 lbs or something. Bright side is that it takes up about the same amount of space as the wimpier kits.
Outboard is mounted fo rthe time-being, and has a nicer kicker locking machanism on it, to try and keep my outboard as MY outboard.

Still need to plumb in the Racor fuel filter/water separator for the main power outboard, and thinking about plumbing in a second Racor filter of same type for the 4-stroke kicker. Can't run 2-stroke fuel and 4-stroke fuel through the same filter, even though it's ported to accept a couple different tank sources.

Still need to mount the trolling plate to the main power as well, but not as much a emergency rto get it done, now that there's a reasonable sized kicker.

Drift anchor/'chute/cone is here now, along with the tether and the floatation for it.

Getting down to the wire.

No 5/16" outlet for the female fitting on the tank's end of the fuel line. One's on order, but I may have to call around. I can make the 3/8" fitting work, but I p[refer the proper size, rathe rthan strining high-pressure black fuel line that's apt to be sitting in Sun a fair bit.

One of the last items on my 'needs list' is a decent pair of chest waders with boots attached. I rarely even entertain wearing such things, as in fast water in rivers and streams, waders can be a death warrant. They can fill with water if the wearer goes under, even a bit, and down a person goes. Happened up here at Chitina many times over the years.

But loading up the boat at that lanch at Aishihik Lake without my younger son, who is often irreplacable in such activities, means that I probably ought to consider buying my very first pair of chest waders in this lifetime, as I suspect I'll bve behind the trailer, up to my shoulders in water, or on the tongue, ratcheting the boat back on, or... who knows?

So, any tried and proven, reasonably-priced chest wader recommendations? I'd also rather they not be too awfully warm. A couple hundred grams equivalent of Thinsulate or similar is likely MORE than enough.

 

[DARKSIDER]

Think i will just sit here in the background and watch and listen as a small boat owner myself

 

[troutman]

I only have a kayak and I'm the motor.

Check this link. It may help.

Top 10 Best Trolling Motors For Kayaks | 2024 Buying Guide

We review the best trolling motors for kayaks from a kayak angler's perspective. From budget motors to the best electric trolling motor overall!

yourbassguy.com

 

[moose eater]

Thanks guys.

For now I've changed course, and rather than putting an electric trolling motor on the boat, for now I've put a 6-hp Suzuki 4-stroke kicker, as well as the trolling plate for the primary power, so both trolling and the chance of enmergency break-downs with the primary outboard are now, in theory, covered.

Still need to score a decent pair of chest waders with good durability, water-proof, and with boots that have a generous instep, so I can get my feet into them.

I jacked up the trailer last night and spun each of the tires to see if there was any gravel sound from the hubs/bearings, and they're in really good shape; no wobble or wiggle, and no growling noises. No guarantee they'll stay that way, so I'll be contacting the last place I've found online that MIGHT have some of those expensive proprietary, shitty, allegedly-sealed, bearing and hub assemblies for this trailer. Maybe put a new (better-designed) axle under it next year.

Still need a vhf hand-held marine radio and booster antenna to augment the satellite phone and the 32-mile Motorola huntiong radios.

And waiting on that ONE final piece for the fuel line for the kicker; the female line fitting for the tank end of the line, with the male paer tof that female fitting that goes to the line needng to be 5/16". So far not a single boat shop I've visited over the last 10 days has one. I have one on order, but no idea how long it will take to arrive.

By the time I get this boat set up for fishing in remote, sometimes-radical water by myself, the hull will likely be rotted, and I'll probably be feeding worms.. Maybe.. Maybe not.