What's new

LJ Farming

Dr.Dutch

Well-known member
Ah, here you have a report, very nice.

watered to run off 3x per light cycle! My hopes are always to get them to 8x light cycle by week 5. There are a ton of variables that go into the COCO DTW small pots including all of my above faults that dictate if the plants will need 5 or want 10 waterings per day and only runs under your belt will teach you this. Not a podcast not a book not a fellow grower experience trumps everything you read, listen to, or watch!

Pro tip!

If you have read this far and understand that you cannot overwater small pots of coco once they are root bound and if you learn how to run salts properly you can unnecessarily water 10 extra times per day and besides the water waste the nutrient cost would not be 20 cents more per day!
Yes, you can't overwater coco. But you can mess up the nutrient balance.
You know my plants—3.5L (1 gallon) pots in coco/perlite. And even then, they’re only watered once, maybe twice a day during peak bloom.
It's bro-science that we need to water coco more frequently. It retains less "dead water" than peat, meaning more of the available water is accessible to the plants compared to peat. Drying down to about 30% or so isn’t an issue; the plants still have enough water.
I ditched high-frequency fertigation as nonsense over a year ago.
You can read about this kind of stuff, for example, on cocoforcannabis com (bullshit side).

1737104953900.png



3. Differential Rates of Nutrient Uptake​

Frequent monitoring of individual nutrients in solution is often recommended, but the need for monitoring can be minimized by deriving a refill solution using the mass balance principles. Monitoring approaches usually attempt to maintain the concentration of each nutrient in solution. However, rapidly growing plants are hungry for nutrients with active uptake. They will continue absorbing nutrients with no sense of when to stop. If the nutrient concentration is maintained at initial levels, the plant will continue absorbing them, sometimes to toxic levels [45]. Loneragan et al. [46] found that excess phosphorus (P) can induce deficiencies in other nutrients, such as iron (Fe) and zinc (Zn). Parry and Bugbee [47] found excessive P in nutrient solutions can also precipitate Fe, even with ample Fe chelation.
Nutrients can be divided into three uptake categories: active, intermediate, and passive (Table 3). Nutrients with active uptake are rapidly removed from solution, and frequent replenishment can result in excessive uptake [48]. Nutrients with passive uptake are taken up at the same rate as water, and their concentrations remain close to their initial level [49]. Nutrients with intermediate uptake can be taken up faster than water but at lower rates than those with active uptake.
Table 3. Uptake strategies of essential plant nutrients.
Table

An understanding of uptake rate is essential for interpreting the concentration of nutrients in solution [2]. Nutrients with active uptake are typically at extremely low levels, even with high concentrations in the refill solution. This indicates a healthy, actively growing crop. The appropriate nutrients are added with the refill solution.
Bugbee [2] appears to be the first to include Mn among the nutrients with active uptake, but its rapid uptake has not been widely reported. The active uptake of Mn is based on its rapid disappearance from solution and the resulting high concentration in leaf tissue. Castaings et al. [50] indicated that active Mn2+ uptake may be accomplished by the transporter IRT1. Mn uptake and acquisition were recently reviewed by Alejandro et al. [40].
Mn availability increases as pH decreases. The concentration of Mn must be maintained at low levels in the root zone to avoid toxic levels in the leaf tissue. Multiple studies have found Mn levels above 500 mg kg−1 (500 ppm) in leaf tissue [51,52], which is associated with necrotic lesions on the leaves. Maintaining a root-zone pH of 6 to 6.5 can minimize Mn toxicity.

3.1. Uptake of Nitrate and Ammonium​

N is taken up from solution faster than the sum of all other nutrients [53,54], and it is the only nutrient taken up as both a cation (ammonium, NH4+) and anion (nitrate, NO3−) [55]. The uptake of these two ions alters pH due to the principle of charge balance [33]. NO3− uptake causes hydroxide ions to be released (or protons to be absorbed), which raises the pH. NH4+ uptake releases protons, which lowers the pH. It is possible to stabilize pH by controlling the concentration of these two ions in solution (Figure 3), but NH4+ is taken up 100 to 1000 times faster than NO3− [56], and an elevated concentration of NH4+ thus causes a rapid pH decrease [57]. With most species, we have found that the NH4+ concentration must be maintained at micromolar concentrations with millimolar concentrations of NO3− to stabilize pH in systems without a solid substrate. NH4+ must be added in frequent small amounts in liquid hydroponic solutions that have low buffering capacity.
Sustainability 14 10204 g003 550

Figure 3. pH over time in two systems. The system represented by the red line was controlled with a pH control solution containing only nitric acid. The system represented by the blue line was controlled by a solution containing a 2:1 ratio of nitric acid and ammonium sulfate (see Section 11.3). The ammonium was added in micromolar amounts with the nitric acid and did not exceed 10 µM in solution. Simultaneous uptake of nitrate and ammonium resulted in steady pH. Sharp pH dips are localized pH during acid injection and do not represent the pH of the bulk solution. Plant uptake of nitrogen is reduced during the night because of reduced root metabolism and there is minimal change in pH.
Excessive uptake of ammonium can inhibit the uptake of other cations. For this reason, maintaining ammonium at consistent low levels usually results in balanced nutrient uptake and optimal growth.
Excessive NH4+ in solution can decrease pH below 4 (Figure 4), which causes increased solubility of metals in soilless media, resulting in excessive uptake and potential toxicity. The pH typically increases due to predominance of NO3− uptake after the NH4+ has been absorbed. For most crops, including lettuce, tomato, wheat, and petunia, the NO3− to NH4+ ratio in the hydroponic solution must be at least 20:1 to avoid decreasing pH.
Sustainability 14 10204 g004 550

Figure 4. pH changes in lettuce grown with 100% nitrate (NO3−, red line) and ample NO3− but excess ammonium (about 0.1 mM ammonium, NH4+, blue line). The system with 100% NO3− did not increase above pH 5.8 because pH was automatically controlled to prevent increasing pH with nitric acid. Neither system had automated control to prevent decreasing pH. The pH in the high-ammonium system started to increase on day 17 after the NH4+ was depleted and uptake was all from NO3−.
 

LJ farming

Well-known member
What are you going to do? Some of those tops are almost touching the light.

The lights have 6-8” more they can raise and the nets about the same. In a couple days the nets will get maxed out and tensioned then until these ladies finish stretching the tops will be trained and woven through the nets to achieve an even as possible canopy. everything that is 16-18” lower than the final canopy height will be cut off and tossed.

My goal is always min 6 preferably 8 colas per plant and over 2oz per plant. I run 16 one gallon pots per light. Two grows ago Biscotti yielded just under 3oz per plant however last grow was only slightly over 2oz per plant. I changed the biscotti location and 6-8 plants grew into the direct air flow from the Mini Split and it truly ruined a ton of colas. The same mistake will not be made again in theory😜

Peace
 

LJ farming

Well-known member
Ah, here you have a report, very nice.


Yes, you can't overwater coco. But you can mess up the nutrient balance.
You know my plants—3.5L (1 gallon) pots in coco/perlite. And even then, they’re only watered once, maybe twice a day during peak bloom.
It's bro-science that we need to water coco more frequently. It retains less "dead water" than peat, meaning more of the available water is accessible to the plants compared to peat. Drying down to about 30% or so isn’t an issue; the plants still have enough water.
I ditched high-frequency fertigation as nonsense over a year ago.
You can read about this kind of stuff, for example, on cocoforcannabis com (bullshit side).

View attachment 19133895


3. Differential Rates of Nutrient Uptake​

Frequent monitoring of individual nutrients in solution is often recommended, but the need for monitoring can be minimized by deriving a refill solution using the mass balance principles. Monitoring approaches usually attempt to maintain the concentration of each nutrient in solution. However, rapidly growing plants are hungry for nutrients with active uptake. They will continue absorbing nutrients with no sense of when to stop. If the nutrient concentration is maintained at initial levels, the plant will continue absorbing them, sometimes to toxic levels [45]. Loneragan et al. [46] found that excess phosphorus (P) can induce deficiencies in other nutrients, such as iron (Fe) and zinc (Zn). Parry and Bugbee [47] found excessive P in nutrient solutions can also precipitate Fe, even with ample Fe chelation.
Nutrients can be divided into three uptake categories: active, intermediate, and passive (Table 3). Nutrients with active uptake are rapidly removed from solution, and frequent replenishment can result in excessive uptake [48]. Nutrients with passive uptake are taken up at the same rate as water, and their concentrations remain close to their initial level [49]. Nutrients with intermediate uptake can be taken up faster than water but at lower rates than those with active uptake.
Table 3. Uptake strategies of essential plant nutrients.
Table

An understanding of uptake rate is essential for interpreting the concentration of nutrients in solution [2]. Nutrients with active uptake are typically at extremely low levels, even with high concentrations in the refill solution. This indicates a healthy, actively growing crop. The appropriate nutrients are added with the refill solution.
Bugbee [2] appears to be the first to include Mn among the nutrients with active uptake, but its rapid uptake has not been widely reported. The active uptake of Mn is based on its rapid disappearance from solution and the resulting high concentration in leaf tissue. Castaings et al. [50] indicated that active Mn2+ uptake may be accomplished by the transporter IRT1. Mn uptake and acquisition were recently reviewed by Alejandro et al. [40].
Mn availability increases as pH decreases. The concentration of Mn must be maintained at low levels in the root zone to avoid toxic levels in the leaf tissue. Multiple studies have found Mn levels above 500 mg kg−1 (500 ppm) in leaf tissue [51,52], which is associated with necrotic lesions on the leaves. Maintaining a root-zone pH of 6 to 6.5 can minimize Mn toxicity.

3.1. Uptake of Nitrate and Ammonium​

N is taken up from solution faster than the sum of all other nutrients [53,54], and it is the only nutrient taken up as both a cation (ammonium, NH4+) and anion (nitrate, NO3−) [55]. The uptake of these two ions alters pH due to the principle of charge balance [33]. NO3− uptake causes hydroxide ions to be released (or protons to be absorbed), which raises the pH. NH4+ uptake releases protons, which lowers the pH. It is possible to stabilize pH by controlling the concentration of these two ions in solution (Figure 3), but NH4+ is taken up 100 to 1000 times faster than NO3− [56], and an elevated concentration of NH4+ thus causes a rapid pH decrease [57]. With most species, we have found that the NH4+ concentration must be maintained at micromolar concentrations with millimolar concentrations of NO3− to stabilize pH in systems without a solid substrate. NH4+ must be added in frequent small amounts in liquid hydroponic solutions that have low buffering capacity.
Sustainability 14 10204 g003 550

Figure 3. pH over time in two systems. The system represented by the red line was controlled with a pH control solution containing only nitric acid. The system represented by the blue line was controlled by a solution containing a 2:1 ratio of nitric acid and ammonium sulfate (see Section 11.3). The ammonium was added in micromolar amounts with the nitric acid and did not exceed 10 µM in solution. Simultaneous uptake of nitrate and ammonium resulted in steady pH. Sharp pH dips are localized pH during acid injection and do not represent the pH of the bulk solution. Plant uptake of nitrogen is reduced during the night because of reduced root metabolism and there is minimal change in pH.
Excessive uptake of ammonium can inhibit the uptake of other cations. For this reason, maintaining ammonium at consistent low levels usually results in balanced nutrient uptake and optimal growth.
Excessive NH4+ in solution can decrease pH below 4 (Figure 4), which causes increased solubility of metals in soilless media, resulting in excessive uptake and potential toxicity. The pH typically increases due to predominance of NO3− uptake after the NH4+ has been absorbed. For most crops, including lettuce, tomato, wheat, and petunia, the NO3− to NH4+ ratio in the hydroponic solution must be at least 20:1 to avoid decreasing pH.
Sustainability 14 10204 g004 550

Figure 4. pH changes in lettuce grown with 100% nitrate (NO3−, red line) and ample NO3− but excess ammonium (about 0.1 mM ammonium, NH4+, blue line). The system with 100% NO3− did not increase above pH 5.8 because pH was automatically controlled to prevent increasing pH with nitric acid. Neither system had automated control to prevent decreasing pH. The pH in the high-ammonium system started to increase on day 17 after the NH4+ was depleted and uptake was all from NO3−.

You always have super technical information Dr Dutch. If it works for you keep on keeping on! I could give 2 shits about growing lettuce and also about growing outdoors or in soil indoors.

I definitely am not the smartest kid in the class but what I do works best for me.

The beauty of DTW COCO is that every fertigation pushes out the excess salts, pulls O2 through the roots, and resets the coco to the desired EC and pH. It’s baby shit easy and even an uneducated dumbass like myself can be fairly successful once you get a few runs under your belt and the more runs under your belt the easier it gets.

BABY SHIT EASY

Peace
 

Dr.Dutch

Well-known member
pulls O2 through the roots,
Total bro-science, sorry. Coco with perlit contains about 30% Air (air porosity), thats why you can't overwater coco. There is always enough air with it's 20% oxygen at the roots. You push the air out when watering, that's the problem with heavy soil where you need a dry back so that oxygen can get on the roots.

Oxygen levels in water are only a thing in water based sytems.

I could give 2 shits about growing lettuce and also about growing outdoors or in soil indoors.
The paper is from Bugbee...

You can also have a look at this


1737106992515.png

He knows how to grow plants and cannabis.

BABY SHIT EASY
But didn't lead to healthy plants in the end as you know.

PS:
I also don’t see what’s supposed to be “easy" about watering 10 times a day compared to my once-a-day routine.
For me, there’s just one nutrient solution for all plants—no nonsense with bloom nutrients and veg nutrients.
That’s real KISS.


And I’ve already hit 700g/m² with three Cali strains (Apple Fritter Lumpys Cut, Permanent Marker Dojas Cut, and SuperBuffCherry #26 GMLS Breeder Cut). No CO2, around 1000 PAR, just controlled climate.

openart-780e668a-75a7-4bf2-8ec6-2d202693e543.png
openart-228fe046-ca25-4698-8dda-b7b7a2a3ff05.png

Harvested Fritter with 56 days
 
Last edited:

LJ farming

Well-known member
You always have super technical information Dr Dutch. If it works for you keep on keeping on! I could give 2 shits about growing lettuce and also about growing outdoors or in soil indoors.

I definitely am not the smartest kid in the class but what I do works best for me.

The beauty of DTW COCO is that every fertigation pushes out the excess salts, pulls O2 through the roots, and resets the coco to the desired EC and pH. It’s baby shit easy and even an uneducated dumbass like myself can be fairly successful once you get a few runs under your belt and the more runs under your belt the easier it gets.

BABY SHIT EASY

Peace
When you start hitting over 1000g per m2 I promise I will study up and take a botany course if that’s what it takes to continue to out perform your yield.

The plants of mine you keep throwing shade at were faded on purpose just like every time.

Stay tuned for the next chapter.

Peace
 

Dr.Dutch

Well-known member
The plants of mine you keep throwing shade at were faded on purpose just like every time.
And more bro-science..

CHAPTER III PREHARVEST FLUSHING DOES NOT REDUCE MOBILE NUTRIENT CONCENTRATIONS IN FLOWER, BUT MAY REDUCE YIELD
Abstract In medical cannabis production flushing is the deprivation of fertilizer during the final one to two weeks of flowering. This study examined the effects of nitrogen (N) deprivation 7, 14, and 21 days before harvest and total nutrient deprivation for 7 and 14 days before harvest on yield, cannabinoid production, and nutrient partitioning. Yield was not affected when plants were flushed by withholding N for up to 21 days, however, yield decreased under total nutrient deprivation. Leaf chlorophyll decreased with increased flushing duration. Flower concentrations of mobile nutrients were unaffected by flushing, but leaf concentrations decreased.

https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1187&context=etd2023

Two ears and one mouth, i see ;)
When you start hitting over 1000g per m2
Going from 1000 to 1500 PAR and adding some co2, than maybe. Bigger plants would with my setup only result in more popcorn buds and lower quality.

And the PM looks already a bit better than last time.. but hart to get more buds to the canopy here, quite full here.
20250115_162440 - Kopie.jpg


So, and out of here for now; this is taking up too much of my time trying to help, have to harvest now^^
As I mentioned before, if you have any questions, feel free to ask, but I'll stop trying to push myself in where help doesn't seem to be wanted.

Peace 🕉️
 
Last edited:

LJ farming

Well-known member
And more bro-science..



Two ears and one mouth, i see ;)

Going from 1000 to 1500 PAR and adding some co2, than maybe. Bigger plants would with my setup only result in more popcorn buds and lower quality.

And the PM looks already a bit better than last time.. but hart to get more buds to the canopy here, quite full here.
View attachment 19133919

So, and out of here for now; this is taking up too much of my time trying to help, have to harvest now^^
As I mentioned before, if you have any questions, feel free to ask, but I'll stop trying to push myself in where help doesn't seem to be wanted.

Peace 🕉️
Watering up to 8x per day is done with a timer that goes down to seconds. I have never watered more than 7x per day and typically end up at 5x per day.

I make sure to get run off on the first and last watering to push out excess salts and get the EC and pH back to the proper levels. When I check the runoff and the pH is higher and the EC is lower than the nutrient solution fed I know everything is going well. The plants have to be using nutrients if the EC is less in the runoff? Or so I was taught. The waterings between the first and last are just “shots” and do not achieve any runoff.

I have never flushed an indoor plant in my life. I just let the PPMs/EC dwindle down the final week by running RO water on a float constantly to a fresh 100 gallon nutrient tank reservoir. So if 5 gallons is used 5 gallons are replaced with no additional nutrients. By chop the EC is around.5EC.

Flushing makes absolutely no sense. Olympic athletes do not quit eating for a week before the Olympics! There is plenty of nutrients in the COCO to dwindle the nutrients little by little the last 5-7 days? Once Si is out of the nutrient mix I doubt nutrients cost $10/week. I also use the same nutrients the entire run besides pulling Si week 6. I believe I have said it before but I also cut N by 15% per week after week 4 and only end up with the N from 5-12-26 by the final week. Calcium citrate is substituted for Calcium nitrate to achieve this.

I am smart enough to know that I have tons of room for improvement in anything in life. However every time I try to make a major change with nutrients I always do worse than what I have been able to dial in over the past 5+ years. Unfortunately the way my system is set up all 80-96 plants get the same nutrients from the same reservoir and it would take a lot of effort and equipment to run a test tray on a separate reservoir or to hand water it. So I try a small nutrient change once in awhile but I’m done making major nutrient changes and ending up with subpar results. The biggest reason I went down the COCO DTW path was to avoid the mundane time consuming task of daily watering. Once your:
#1 Drains are set up correctly
#2 irrigation system is set up correctly
#3 nutrients are dialed in
#4 most importantly environmental controls are dialed in
#5 light intensity and spectrum are dialed

COCO DTW is BABYSHIT EASY. I will stand by this until I find something better and/or easier to run 6 lights/96 plants every 60-63 days perpetually with clones/veg happening simultaneously.

I will never say my way is the best way for anyone but so far it works best for me and again is BABYSHIT easy once dialed in.

Peace
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Anyone that`s had powdery mildew in their lil grow tent the last 2 runs and can`t figure out WHY or how NOT to have powdery mildew in said lil grow tent definitely shouldn`t be givin ANYONE grow advice and spewin "bro science" on tried , true , and TIME tested grow techniques over yrs and yrs......and.....

You can read till your eyes bleed and find 10 growers that SWEAR that their way of growin in coco dtw is the way , the truth , and the light , so you blowin up in a well respected COMMERCIAL grower`s thread claimin everything he`s doin is wrong and bro science just shows everyone here how needy baby , greedy baby you are in need of attention and trying to disrupt said thread by spewin you`re only tryin to help ?.....Thanks but no thanks.....

LJ........Stretch`ll be done next week and then it`s time to REALLY clean em up.....

Holler.....DHF......
 

LJ farming

Well-known member
DHF,

I thought your ole lady was cooking us spaghetti tonight? What happened I’m stoned sleeping under a bridge and hungry! Help please! Call the pay phone by my bridge and my hood rat will answer if there is any leftovers tomorrow! I will meet you at the Salvation Army when they are handing out free government cheese!

Peace
 

LJ farming

Well-known member
I really appreciate you taking the time @LJ farming to document your grow and your techniques.
You are here to show your way of growing because it works for you and that is what matters.
aCBD I am glad you find the info potentially useful! I will never force my way on anyone because what works for me might not work for 9/10 people! I definitely geek out way to hard on the mechanical aspects.

I truly feel the need to try to share the knowledge I gained from an ole head with at least one person! It just seems everyone knows everything these days.

The ole head that taught me years ago was patient enough to deal with my inadequacies and stupidity and help me when I started.

I did not earn his respect and willingness to help by being a disrespectful know it all. His number one rule outta the gate was “don’t make me repeat myself more than 2 times”
His direction, knowledge, and patience made me the grower I am today and he will always be a badass in my book! I have been told by numerous know it all’s that I need to give up his old tech/way of growing and try this that or the other. However every time I stray too far in a NEW direction I end up regretting it and go back to the BABYSHIT easy way.



Creeperpark salute and thank you for encouraging me to share! I seem to spend more time at this diary than I ever planned to but I enjoy TRYING to share what I have learned and the way I roll right wrong or indifferent!

Peace
 

LJ farming

Well-known member
IMG_1253.jpeg
IMG_1256.jpeg
IMG_1257.jpeg
Damn I’m so far behind! Nets have to get topped out and tensioned now! Tall tops need to be sent sideways to avoid too much light.

Yet another blessing/potential issue! The damn clones rooted faster than ever before and need to get in solos NOW!

It’s going to be a long working weekend for me.

Again because I was a lazy ass over the holidays IMO

Peace
 

Dr.Dutch

Well-known member
I make sure to get run off on the first and last watering to push out excess salts and get the EC and pH back to the proper levels. When I check the runoff and the pH is higher and the EC is lower than the nutrient solution fed I know everything is going well. The plants have to be using nutrients if the EC is less in the runoff? Or so I was taught. The waterings between the first and last are just “shots” and do not achieve any runoff.

I have never flushed an indoor plant in my life. I just let the PPMs/EC dwindle down the final week by running RO water on a float constantly to a fresh 100 gallon nutrient tank reservoir. So if 5 gallons is used 5 gallons are replaced with no additional nutrients. By chop the EC is around.5EC.

Flushing makes absolutely no sense. Olympic athletes do not quit eating for a week before the Olympics! There is plenty of nutrients in the COCO to dwindle the nutrients little by little the last 5-7 days? Once Si is out of the nutrient mix I doubt nutrients cost $10/week. I also use the same nutrients the entire run besides pulling Si week 6. I believe I have said it before but I also cut N by 15% per week after week 4 and only end up with the N from 5-12-26 by the final week. Calcium citrate is substituted for Calcium nitrate to achieve this.

That is "flushing". In the study they "flushed" the DWC by replacing the nutrient solution. And they tested the deprivation of N as you do it.
You are not growing tomatoes where the fruits contain much potassium and low nitrogen.
We have already some studies that show us that we don't need more PK. Flowers contain more N than P and K.
Lowering potassium is something what looks promising, but lowering nitrogen with your schedule makes scientifically no sense.
20-10-20 from start to finish, as Bugbee says. Lowering the EC the last week or two is no problem.


1737195698661.png


1737195719029.png



Nitrogen is an essential element for plants because it plays a critical role in several physiological and biochemical processes. Here's an in-depth explanation of why nitrogen is vital for plants:


1. Protein Synthesis


  • Amino Acids: Nitrogen is a fundamental component of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. Proteins are essential for the structure and function of cells, including enzymes, which catalyze all biochemical reactions in plants.
  • Enzymes: Enzymatic reactions regulate processes like photosynthesis, nitrogen fixation, and respiration.

2. Nucleic Acids (DNA and RNA)


  • Nitrogen is a key element in nucleotides, the monomers of DNA and RNA. These nucleic acids are crucial for:
    • Storing genetic information.
    • Guiding protein synthesis.
    • Regulating growth and reproduction of plant cells.

3. Chlorophyll Formation


  • Chlorophyll, the green pigment in plants responsible for capturing light energy during photosynthesis, contains nitrogen in its molecular structure. Without adequate nitrogen, chlorophyll production decreases, leading to yellowing of leaves (chlorosis) and reduced photosynthesis efficiency.

4. Energy Transfer (ATP and NADPH)


  • Nitrogen is a part of energy-carrying molecules like ATP (adenosine triphosphate) and NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate). These molecules are essential for energy transfer during metabolic processes such as photosynthesis and respiration.

5. Secondary Metabolites


  • Many secondary metabolites, like alkaloids, which are important for plant defense and growth regulation, contain nitrogen. These compounds help plants protect themselves from pests, diseases, and environmental stresses.

6. Nitrogen Assimilation and Transport


  • Plants absorb nitrogen from the soil in the form of nitrates (NO3−NO_3^-) or ammonium (NH4+NH_4^+). These forms are assimilated into organic compounds through pathways like the nitrogen cycle, involving enzymes such as nitrate reductase and glutamine synthetase.

7. Growth and Development


  • Nitrogen is vital for the production of plant hormones like cytokinins, which regulate cell division and differentiation. Adequate nitrogen supports:
    • Robust root and shoot development.
    • Increased leaf area and chlorophyll content.
    • Improved overall plant vigor.

8. Symbiotic Nitrogen Fixation


  • In legumes and some other plants, nitrogen is a crucial part of the symbiotic relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria (e.g., Rhizobium). These bacteria convert atmospheric nitrogen (N2N_2) into ammonia (NH3NH_3), a form plants can use.

Summary of Nitrogen Deficiency Effects​


When plants lack nitrogen, several symptoms may arise, including:


  • Reduced chlorophyll leading to yellowing leaves (chlorosis).
  • Stunted growth due to insufficient proteins and enzymes.
  • Poor fruit and seed production due to reduced energy transfer and synthesis of nucleic acids.

In conclusion, nitrogen is indispensable for multiple fundamental processes in plants, from growth and energy metabolism to defense and reproduction. Its availability directly influences plant health, productivity, and survival.

Anyone that`s had powdery mildew in their lil grow tent the last 2 runs and can`t figure out WHY or how NOT to have powdery mildew in said lil grow tent definitely shouldn`t be givin ANYONE grow advice and spewin "bro science" on tried , true , and TIME tested grow techniques over yrs and yrs......and.....
Use Purolyt, Seranade and Chitosan. Helped in my case. And good disinfection. Problem solved after one run

PS:
I truly feel the need to try to share the knowledge I gained from an ole head
Same for me ;)

1737196427194.png
 
Last edited:

LJ farming

Well-known member
That is "flushing". In the study they "flushed" the DWC by replacing the nutrient solution. And they tested the deprivation of N as you do it.
You are not growing tomatoes where the fruits contain much potassium and low nitrogen.
We have already some studies that show us that we don't need more PK. Flowers contain more N than P and K.
Lowering potassium is something what looks promising, but lowering nitrogen with your schedule makes scientifically no sense.
20-10-20 from start to finish, as Bugbee says. Lowering the EC the last week or two is no problem.


View attachment 19134477

View attachment 19134478





Use Purolyt, Seranade and Chitosan. Helped in my case. And good disinfection. Problem solved after one run

PS:

Same for me ;)

View attachment 19134479

I will be the first to admit that I cheated with any automation possible in the beginning including a an Apogee light meter.

Would I do it again? Damn right!

Would a few extra runs under my belt make TrolMaster, Apogee, wIFi connectivity, and numerous other gadgets less significant? Absolutely! Most of it get used a little less every run.

If ya ain’t cheating ya ain’t trying. Knowing exactly what ppfd is best for the plant is incredibly important! Thank you Bruce! However runs under your belt will teach you the hard way!

Peace
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Another crop scientist tryin to tell folks howta grow dope......go figure....I`ve gone through SOOOO many know-it-alls here over the yrs screamin how EVERYTHING we were doin was wrong but YET.......they never argued over our end result yield per sq meter as well as the top shelf quality produced with said time tested and learned "on the job training " techniques from YEARS of doin this shit for a living......anyways.....things that make you go hmmmm.....now.....

Bruce Bugbee might be good with maters and cukes , and I`m sure there`s something to be learned about mobile and immobile macro and micro nutrients , but practical application with growin dope and doin it WELL consistently run and run out ad infinitum means you have to find a "happy medium" on how every plant under the lights utilizes the nutrient profile they`re gettin regardless of how many strains are in the room with God only knows the ACTUAL nutrient requirements of each , so multiple feeds per day in smaller containers GUARANTEES that each plant gets adequate juice needed with proper "gas exchange" in the rootzone to replenish oxygen to roots AND wash any residual salt buildup between feed sequences if any at all.....also......

You feedin once a day in your lil tent with all but NO environmental control except maybe passive air intake and out with a scrubber and inline fan is COMPLETELY different from a setup with temps dialed in the mid 80`s and containers that dry out SO much faster between feeds with all the airflow and elevated temps to make the LED`s perform at their optimum , so multiple feeds per day INSURES that "happy medium" of keepin eeerrrrbody happy durin lights on sequences......and......

If LJ`s doin shit wrong , we don`t wanna be right.....Well over 2 lbs per light and close to 3 with certain strains like Biscotti usin 780 watt fixtures , and since he started listenin to experience instead of the latest greatest growers using all the new tech available for idiots to swoon over and spend hard earned money on hype and hydro whore manufacturers "nutrient " of the week , month , yr , He`s been pullin at LEAST 10 lbs outta 5 lights and every 60 days with all his ducks in a row and restartin each rotation on schedule gives him a minimum of 60 lbs per yr or more strain dependent......and hey.....

Keep readin while you have fun in your lil tent Dr D>>>>sh , and those who like to learn and APPLY runs under belt while observin the plant and it`s needs to exploit it and MAKE it produce more in artificial surroundings than mother nature provides outdoors under the big metal halide in da sky will keep on keepin on mmk?........see.....indoors we are GOD and everything we do and DON`T do affects the plant`s poorly , better , or best if we learn what it needs from doin this shit instead of readin howta grow produce in coco.....nuff outta my old ass this day.....

Peace.....DHF......
 

Dr.Dutch

Well-known member
Oh man, i'm out here.. too much bad vibes here.
Btw, LJ doesn’t even have three times as much space as I do (compared to real commercial growers, this is a joke anyway). If you're already drawing lines between big and small growers – have fun. I don’t need to deal with this kind of dualism.
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
To be honest , the term "commercial grower" was only used to compare to your tent grow Dr Dutch.....LJ`s a hobbyist in the vernacular of grow setups since actual commercial setups run 1000`s of plants at all different stages of growth to insure perpetual harvest to serve the market on a regular basis , and LJ just happens to fill the gaps of boutique top shelf HIGH quality dope compared to the middle of the road commercial shit at the dispensaries and on the streets......and hey dewd.....

You didn`t come here to gain or share knowledge , you came here to talk down to an experienced grower and tell him everything he`s doin is broscience and wrong just to inject your so-called grow superiority and make you feel better about yourself.......

Thanks for goin away with YOUR bad vibes.....and....

Peace......DHF......
 
Top