How to truly kill PM before it gets crazy???

[ilovesluts420]

So I’m at week 4 of veg. And since they were clones I noticed tiny traces of PM on some of the bottom leaves on a few of them. It looks like whoever I got the clones from had a bit of a PM problem. Now I’m seeing bits of PM here and there. I spray Dr Zymes once a week to prevent mites n what not. From what I’ve heard truly getting rid of PM is very very hard and can’t be done by spraying but by adding something to the feed. Does anyone have any tips on getting rid/preventing PM before it gets out of control? I only see a tiny bit on a fan leaf of only two plants. What can I do?? Thank you!

 

[Creeperpark]

That's why I don't do clones that come from any other gardens! You are going to run into it if you have spotted it on the leaves. Its grows on indoor plants from, over-watering, poor ventilation, or your plant's pot or container has inadequate drainage. Its treatable by removing the offending soil or cutting the affected plant parts off. Just use cuttings off mothers from your personal planted seeds, or just use plants grown from seed in the future.

 

[44:86N]

Yeah, it's most likely a systemic and entrenched infection, which I do not believe can be fully eradicated, just suppressed. At this point in your grow, you can use a systemic formula that contains Azoxystrobin for best results. I like "Mural."

Pageant Intrinsic is another systemic with a different mode of action than "Mural," but I do think "Mural" has better control.

I also like the zinc product, "Affirm," which is broad spectrum and pretty gentle on plants.

"Mural" will give you the longest control (4 to 6 weeks), but also has the highest price tag.

And then there's the potassium/phosphorus salts in "Phostrol" or "Reliant," but I think this stuff is going to be an in-between spray to help with suppression, as is the neem oil product, "Triact 70" (I love this stuff).

If I need to, I will do a control treatment at the initial stages of flowering (1st or 2nd week), and then just let whatever happens, happen. You should be able to find this stuff available from online vendors, but shop around. None of that stuff is cheap.

The best practice is what Creeperpark said.

Then, if you do see PM beginning, it is MORE likely a new, topical infection, which is easier to eradicate with any of the above.

 

[44:86N]

Then, if you do see PM beginning, it is MORE likely a new, topical infection, which is easier to eradicate with any of the above.

These pathogens are tricky little shits.

The quote above, what I said there, is probably complete bullshit.

When we see those little white patches, it is thought to be an initial infection of PM. But, what we're really seeing there are the FRUITING BODIES of the mold pathogen.

If you can see a fungus' fruiting bodies, it's mature.

If it's mature, then it is systemic. The question then becomes how much does the plants natural defenses isolate that infection? At what point is the infection completely endemic in the plant?

With ornamental plants like rose, phlox, and monarda, the game then becomes seasonal suppression in the landscape, which can only be achieved by spraying before the fungus fruits. For the lifespan of that plant. Year after year.

So really, best practice is combined with what Creeperpark said, AND proactive preventive spraying to prevent a PM infection from beginning in the first place. Knowing your regional/seasonal conditions will clue you into when you need to be worried about doing those treatments.

In places with well defined seasons, that would be spring/summer/fall, both indoors and out. In places with like Northern CA., where PM seems to be a constant issue, start right off the bat when your seedlings push out their first set of true leaves. I usually start with "Affirm," and use "Phostrol" and "Triact 70" weekly, in between a longer acting chemical. Be sure to rotate chemical classes, or you will produce a resistant form of PM.

Nobody wants that!!!!

 

[troutman]

Keeping humidity below 65% in flowering probably helps a lot.
I find when the lights go out humidity climbs so be careful.

 

[big315smooth]

ive seen lactobacillus spray work wonders on pm better than most store bought stuff and its easy to make

 

[Creeperpark]

Cut the water at least 50% in flowering and cut the "wet to dry" to slightly wilt dry before watering. One can pick up mold inside a bud and have it for weeks without even knowing it. Water management is Key with dry periods to allow the stems to drain so to speak. All bud rot starts in the stem and works its way outwards. If you have white spots on the fan leaves you already have mold on the inside of the bud.

 

[Hammerhead]

The #1 go to for PM has been Sulfur for many years.. You can also use any good Organic Fungicide. I use Growsafe bio Pestacide. Pm has no chance here. Veg is much easier to keep under control than flower.. You must start doing IPM so it never gets a chance to start. Treat all your plants in veg on a regular schedule. Once your plants get to week 4 flower you should stop spraying and never use Sulfur after week 2 flower.

 

[FletchF.Fletch]

SaferGro Mildew Cure will put Powdery Mildew in its grave. Kills on contact. It's a blend of Cottonseed Oil, Garlic Oil, Corn Oil, Citric Acid, Lauric Acid, and good old Sodium Bicarbonate. Natural and very effective. I eradicated a Total plague indoors years ago and still have the almost full bottle. It also kills Algae and Mold on Rockwool.

 

[007grow]

i just burn sulpher...

 

[chilliwilli]

Sulfure too late in flower is bad for quality and terps.