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Highland Thai, Johaar, Lemon Candy, Syrian, Rhino D

aliceklar

Well-known member
Let's hope those Auto-Zamaldelicas get going soon!

What's the light green plant in front of the seedlings?
Still no sign of the Auto Zamaldelica :(

The pale green plant is a Pinguicula (Butterwort). I've a thing for carnivorous plants ;) Have been keeping these in my growroom for a few years - they are much better than sticky traps for hoovering up fungus gnats, and dont create the problem of producing disgusting and uncompostable plastic waste. Very easy to keep - just need a peat, moss or coir substrate and water with rainwater only - thats it.
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Germination of the rest has mostly (apart from the P2 HT) been excellent:

12/12 Johaar
10/10 Lemon Candy
2/2 P1 Highland Thai (TRSC)
10/20 P2 Highland Thai (not sure why such poor germination on these homemade seeds - they were one of the first batches of seeds I made, so maybe I harvested them too early or the mother wasn't as healthy as she could have been...). some of the P2s are showing a weird twisting on their seed leaves. Not sure what that's about.

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In other news, got the extractor fan mounted, wired in and connected up. All systems go.
 
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aliceklar

Well-known member
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One more of the HT P2s has emerged (11/20 so far). Still wondering what caused the poor germination, but at least both the P1s are healthy and I should have enough plants overall to make plenty of seed. HT P2 #1 is showing some leaf-tip necrosis.
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"Lemon Candy" (JohaarxNLH) bx J all up and looking good.
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Still no sign of the Auto Zamaldelica... still 1 seed left in reserve. Will wait another couple of days and try one final time.
 
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aliceklar

Well-known member
Still no Zalaldelica... Have just had one extra Highland Thai P2 pop up though (so 14 Thai in total).

some weird seed-leaf deformation/twisting going on with some of the Thai P2s.
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aliceklar

Well-known member
Gave an initial watering/feed at 350ppm (1ml Canna A+B / 1.25 litres, 60/40 mix of rainwater with hard tapwater amended with nitric acid & epsom salts). This is my first time running either Johaar or the Thai in coco w/bottled nutes, and I'm hoping that this isnt too much/too soon for them, as both have light nutrient requirements. Will keep a close eye and increase when they are a bit bigger.

LIghts at 50cm/80% power (Spiderfarmer SF1000 quantam board). Dropped down from 20 --> 18 hours light.
 
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aliceklar

Well-known member
No matter how much I lose myself in fantasies of what I'm going to grow next, plants always bring you down to earth, to the here and now, what you can see and feel and smell and touch. Even when they grow fast enough to see the changes day by day, they are still slow moving compared to us mammals. It calms my soul just to sit with them sometimes - specially in the dark months of the year when the growroom is an oasis of sunshine and warmth. Love just sitting with the plants, giving them attention without rushing to DO anything (remember - LITFA is the best medicine). Just hanging.
 

xet

Well-known member
No matter how much I lose myself in fantasies of what I'm going to grow next, plants always bring you down to earth, to the here and now, what you can see and feel and smell and touch. Even when they grow fast enough to see the changes day by day, they are still slow moving compared to us mammals. It calms my soul just to sit with them sometimes - specially in the dark months of the year when the growroom is an oasis of sunshine and warmth. Love just sitting with the plants, giving them attention without rushing to DO anything (remember - LITFA is the best medicine). Just hanging.
In all reality they are the one's sitting with us as they move at lightspeed from baby to adult to death in under a year.
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
Plants starting to look peaky. New growth seems pale, and there is a) some tip-burn on some of the Thais, and b) some leaf mottling/curling with the Johaars. Not good.

Ambient & water temps are between 21-24c, so temperature is not an issue. I checked pH/ppm for all the inputs and everything also on course - input with 1ml Canna A+B is 570ppm, pH 5.7. Watered again this morning to c 40% runoff and checked the runoff - pH 6.7, 750ppm.

Higher runoff ppm makes me think there may have been residual salts in the coco, although I did rinse it well before use (in an old pillowcase in a fermentation bin). Fingers crossed thats the issue, and it will flush through as I continue feeding with balanced pH/ppm. Otherwise, not sure what is wrong here - the temps are in the right range, I've gone easy on the watering so far (ie, not watering at all initially, then watering sparingly - not constantly soaked, but neither letting it dry out). The ppm is on the light side for nutes, under 50% of what Canna recommend in their feeding schedule (after the first week Canna recommend 2.3ml/litre of A+B, I have been giving 1ml) - but about what I would expect landrace sativas to require during veg.

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xet

Well-known member
I think the plant expects a hotter light like it's used to in the high mountains. Curious - why not soil?
 
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aliceklar

Well-known member
I think the plant expects a hotter light like it's used to in the high mountains. Curious - why not soil?
Lights currently at 80% - I could increase that up to 100% but I was worried about scorching the seedlings. Hadnt thought about the light much - maybe that's the issue? I've grown both these under the same LEDs before with no problem.
Re soil, I had some awful problems with dodgy compost last grow and swapped over to using coco and bottled nutes. I tend to grow a lot of (small) plants in a v limited space, and coco seems to suit this micro-grow style better than soil. I might experiment, though, and see what happens if I transplant some into bigger pots of soil...
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
Seems I am either over or under watering, over or under feeding, may have a bad batch of coco, or might be scorching the seedlings with the light, or not giving them enough light. One or the other of one or more of those. Or maybe just crappy seeds. :cautious: So, easy to fix! I either need to do more or less of one or more of those things. And then keep doing it for a while before I see if anything fixes it... Or... I could use this as an opportunity to find what happens when I do things differently. My gut feeling says its probably the coco, so I could try repotting a few plants into bigger pots of compost and seeing what this does. Another suspect is drainage in the coco - I've used no perlite this time and no base-layer of hydroton or crocks or gravel - maybe I could repot some into (bigger) pots of coco with some drainage. It would also be easy to choose some plants for heavier feeding, which I think is less likely to be the problem, but v easy to diagnose.


;)(y)
 

goingrey

Well-known member
Seems I am either over or under watering, over or under feeding, may have a bad batch of coco, or might be scorching the seedlings with the light, or not giving them enough light. One or the other of one or more of those. Or maybe just crappy seeds. :cautious: So, easy to fix! I either need to do more or less of one or more of those things. And then keep doing it for a while before I see if anything fixes it... Or... I could use this as an opportunity to find what happens when I do things differently. My gut feeling says its probably the coco, so I could try repotting a few plants into bigger pots of compost and seeing what this does. Another suspect is drainage in the coco - I've used no perlite this time and no base-layer of hydroton or crocks or gravel - maybe I could repot some into (bigger) pots of coco with some drainage. It would also be easy to choose some plants for heavier feeding, which I think is less likely to be the problem, but v easy to diagnose.


;)(y)
It doesn't seem like you're underwatering, some of those pots look dry even. You need to water coco more than soil (the upside is that you can, as it holds oxygen as well as water).

Did you buffer the coco? That could be the issue also.

Scorching with light? Easy to test it out. Just dim the lamp more. Even if that isn't the case, at this stage they should do fine with less still.

Drainage I doubt as the cause. People do say adding perlite is an improvement. Maybe so but straight coco works fine. I have done both but hard to say if there was a difference.
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
It doesn't seem like you're underwatering, some of those pots look dry even. You need to water coco more than soil (the upside is that you can, as it holds oxygen as well as water).

Did you buffer the coco? That could be the issue also.

Scorching with light? Easy to test it out. Just dim the lamp more. Even if that isn't the case, at this stage they should do fine with less still.

Drainage I doubt as the cause. People do say adding perlite is an improvement. Maybe so but straight coco works fine. I have done both but hard to say if there was a difference.
Thanks @goingrey. I'm keeping the light as it is for now but am upping the frequency of feeding. I'm feeding daily now, and have marked out a couple groups which are getting 1.5ml A+B. The rest can stay on 1ml as a control - so I can see if more nutes make a positive difference.

I rinsed the coco, but didnt buffer... that might be part of it. I'm watering to c40% runoff to try to flush it all through. The runoff is still pretty dark.
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aliceklar

Well-known member
Everything looking perkier today - I think daily watering has made the difference. Note to self - COCO IS NOT SOIL! Also, omg, dealing with runoff is a chore. Need to work out a system to drain automatically.
 
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JockBudman

Well-known member
Subbed up - looks like a fun grow and you have similar tastes and thoughts on seed making etc to me.

I've had a few three seed leaf plants before, most recently an f2 zamaldelica male. They usually go back to 2 fairly quickly but often have alternating nodes from the start because of the mutation. A few zamaldelica f2 girls showed that as well and they came out fine.

One question though - why two seeds per pot? I do that with tomatoes myself but I've always been too precious with my herb seeds to risk splitting them down the line. Is it an early form of selection where the dominant plant wins out or something?
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
Subbed up - looks like a fun grow and you have similar tastes and thoughts on seed making etc to me.

I've had a few three seed leaf plants before, most recently an f2 zamaldelica male. They usually go back to 2 fairly quickly but often have alternating nodes from the start because of the mutation. A few zamaldelica f2 girls showed that as well and they came out fine.
Welcome.

Cool re the 3-seedleaf trait. Its more of a double-lobe on one side than a proper 3-leaf, on closer inspection. and the whole plant is pretty gnarly - with asymetrical and twisted leaves. I'm considering culling it... which brings me to your question ;)
why two seeds per pot? I do that with tomatoes myself but I've always been too precious with my herb seeds to risk splitting them down the line. Is it an early form of selection where the dominant plant wins out or something?
Yes, its an early form of selection. I've got v limited space and have a fuckton of homemade seeds from various pollen chucks over the past 3 years... so I have no guarantee of germination % and plenty of seed to spare - so I'm selecting for seed which germinates quickly and easily, and doesnt have to be pre-soaked, sterilized or kept at 26C... These are all vigorous sativas, and I've had to work hard to keep them alive and healthy in small pots in the past. This time I'm planning on multi-grafting the plants so that there will only be one or two each of Johaar, of Lemon Candy (75% Johaar), and Highland Thai, but with multiple phenos grafted to each rootstock, and in bigger pots than I normally use (normally my max was 5l and most were grown in 3 or 4 litres or smaller).
 
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