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Fire Rated Plywood

Bullfrog44

Active member
Veteran
Fire Rated Ply Wood :)
Get some people. Little more expensive but if you install behind ballast and plug strips (plug stips not reccomended for use period) you can prevent a good portion of grow room fires.

In case some people are having a hard time picturing this, I will try to explain.

First explaination is install - Home Depot, Lowes, most lumber yards will carry 4x8 sheets of fire rated plywood with various thicknesses. Depending on what you will hang off this I suggest 1/2 inch thickness. Depending on how big of a piece you use, this will hold hundreds of pounds. For example, if you use the entire sheet and screw it off into studs then this will hold just about anything needed. If you decide to take a piece that is 24inch by 16inch and screw into a set of studs, this will hold several ballast no problem.

Second explanation, why? - Most fires start from a surge in electrical current caused by flaws in connections, sheathing, or overloads. These type of fires are minimized by making all electrical connections in junction boxes ext ext..... In the event this does happen, it is likely to happen in your plug strips and ballasts. When this electrical surge happens it can draw power at large amounts before tripping a breaker. During this time temperatures can reach extreme levels, hence fires. This recommended fire rated plywood will prevent these types of fires because of high temperature ratings,

The reason I have come across this is because I am in the trades and in commercial buildings in California any networking devices mounted to a wall now has to have fire rated ply wood. That is just LOW VOLTAGE. All electrical 120v is already in boxes and subject to higher standards. This seems like it should be a minimum for grow rooms.

Hope this gives some people something to think about. I know most wont bother, and i don't blame you guys. I sleep better at night knowing my house is as safe as I could make it and same with any builds I do. This is just another step towards this goal.
 

Bullfrog44

Active member
Veteran
Not sure this applies to many people, but if you are getting things inspected you have to put the spray painted label facing up and unpainted for the inspector to see. After being inspected you can paint over label. Label insures you are using a fire rated product.
 

Tilt

Member
3/4" ply is the usual standard. The ply has fire retardant. I would recomend it too. We used to use the stuff in 12x12 cans for vibration isolation for contactors. It also has a smooth side and a rough side. mount your devices on the smooth side.
 

Bullfrog44

Active member
Veteran
3/4 is the standard. The ply I have used is sanded on the side that the stamp isn't. Why i don't know, but if you are getting inspected you have to show that label. Otherwise, mount sanded side up, good call.
 

Bullfrog44

Active member
Veteran
For what? Can you read the exact code? Is that for a common wall in a commercial building or residential? Please explain. Sheet rock can only give a rating of 1 hour. This ply has a higher rating.

Edit: it is also hard to hang ballast off sheetrock. Pig dicks (WDK-8's) I wouldn't trust, maybe molly anchors.
 

Tilt

Member
bull is right ply for surface mounted equipment. We have to run a #6 awg wire to building steel or cold water for grounding for the phone guys.
 

Bullfrog44

Active member
Veteran
Grounding is always very important. It is a standard now for all voltage, low and high. Technically anything under 600v is considered low voltage, however most people consider low voltage anything under 120v.
 

Bullfrog44

Active member
Veteran
Cement board would work for sure. I don't think you would have the sheer value that ply wood carries, but it would for sure block out any electrical fires with ease. Sheer value = weight that can be hung from it.
 
Bullfrog, thanks for the reply. I'm in the insulation/wiring phase of a new 14X14 grow room. I had a friend that is an electrical engineer/grower look things over. He put the fear of fire into me, as he had a fire years ago.
I think I'll put a layer of backer board/cement board over plywood where I hang my plugs and where the ballasts go. That way I'll have the shear strength AND fire protection. It may not be pretty, but it will be effective.

Again, thanks for the reply.
 

bsound

Member
If you were going to frame up a room what kind of material would you use that would be most cost effective? I was thinking fire rated drywall on the inside of a 2x4 frame. Is sheet rock better? The walls don't have to hold any weight and I'd prefer them to be not made of wood.
 

Bullfrog44

Active member
Veteran
Sheet rock only has a fire rating when taped properly. I would frame your room with 2x4's, hang all your sheet rock, then buy a piece of fire-rated ply wood to put behind any ballast or plug strips you mount on the wall. This is just fire saftey and most people don't bother with the fire rated ply wood. I would still recommend it however. 30$ for a piece of ply, how much does a fire cost?
 

Bullfrog44

Active member
Veteran
That is an ok article and all, but you have to understand the install part. If you don't install sheetrock correctly then you have 0 fire rating. If you are just trying to put something behind your ballast and plug strips, then get some fire rated plywood.

If you want type X rock then that works, but it isn't 8$ a sheet, that is for sure. Also, when installing you have to keep your but joints below 1/8'' and you have to tape every corner and gap. If you have any air flow then you loose your fire rating all together.
 

Sam the Caveman

Good'n Greasy
Veteran
they make additives you can add to your paint that will give you a class A fire rating. Its called flame guard and $20 per gallon for a class A rating, or $10 per gallon for a class B rating.
 

h.h.

Active member
Veteran
Smooth side towards fire. More fire resistance when not rough. Plywood would also need to be sealed at the edges.
Cement board on it's own won't hold fasteners. About the same as drywall in that sense.
One can also put up a double layer of drywall starting the second layer on half bond, staggering the joints.
 

Bullfrog44

Active member
Veteran
they make additives you can add to your paint that will give you a class A fire rating. Its called flame guard and $20 per gallon for a class A rating, or $10 per gallon for a class B rating.

This wont help with an electrical short. It is not rated for extreme temps, more for fire barrier if I am not mistaken. Please correct me if I am wrong, maybe shout out the name of a product please.

H.H. - Right on man. Staggered Sheetrock joints at half inch will give you a two hour fire rating. Good looking out.
 
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