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DIY IPM Recipes

chilliwilli

Waterboy
All amounts are per liter
0.4g camphor crystals
0.13g menthol crystals
0.3g thymeoil(ct thymol)
0.3g orange oil
1g diatomaceous earth
2.87g potassium soap
5 g sesame seed oil

hi folks little update on the mix.

Worked fine indoors in veg.

On some early flowers(~3-4 weeks after flip) i got burned leaf and few buds wilted.

Heavy use outdoor almost killed a small young plant after second application. I didn't cover the pot so a lot of the mix went into the soil.

Next try will be with yucca extraxt instead of the soap and i will maybe skip the vegetal oil.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
is the green cleaner recipe for concentrated rate or is that “1 gal” for ready use and you don’t follow their concentrated rate after making it?

1/3 70% alcohol, 1/3 soap, 1/3 oil is the concentrate. Use 1/2 oz of the concentrate in a gallon of water for maintenance up to 2 oz/gallon for heavy infestation. Never spray in direct light or while under heat stress or you will burn plants.
 

Gry

Well-known member
Admire the thread, and the can do perspective behind it.
Reminded of times when this kind of attitude was considered a norm.
 

tomatolover

New member
I see everyone's using something...

Green Cleaner
Nuke Em
Mammoth Biocontrol
Lost Coast

A lot of them use the same ingredients, do you guys rotate?
 

lordlupulin

New member
When making the lost coast do you use instructions for making liquid soap by heating the oil and POH paste till they form trace? Then adding the extra water and neutralizers/essential oils? Or do you just mix it all together? I've made liquid soap before and it usually requires a slow cooker and a stick blender.
 

hambre

Active member
Hi, if there is no analysis, it is impossible to assume, because everybody lies on their ingredient list, this is known. Most vegetal oils work just fine with an emulsifier, there is plenty of studies of this too, wors with most of little bugs, eggs and PM, botrytis and more. It kills by suffocation, and in the case of PM or botrytis kills by not letting the established fungae grow more and the new spores not letting them penetrate the leaves.

I let you the study and then you can go to the menu and check the other ones, they are more than interesting:

Bear with my english, not my native language and never learned it.
 

CannaRed

Cannabinerd
Would like to make diy version of Doctor Zymes.
I have food grade Citric acid, now I need enzymes... But which of the many different enzymes?

Also, our closest town just opened up our first local hydro store. Guy who owns it says that for ipm he only uses hydrogen peroxide in water as a foliar spray. In Virginia, the only legal hydrogen peroxide is the 3%. What would be the correct recipe for 1 gallon of water. And if there woupd this cause trichomes to oxidize if sprayed in early bloom?
 

hambre

Active member
Would like to make diy version of Doctor Zymes.
I have food grade Citric acid, now I need enzymes... But which of the many different enzymes?

Also, our closest town just opened up our first local hydro store. Guy who owns it says that for ipm he only uses hydrogen peroxide in water as a foliar spray. In Virginia, the only legal hydrogen peroxide is the 3%. What would be the correct recipe for 1 gallon of water. And if there woupd this cause trichomes to oxidize if sprayed in early bloom?
Hi, I wouldn`t recomend you to use enzyme productos, most of them are inactive or inert. No enzymes at all. Do you need to treat PM?
 

hambre

Active member
Sorry, I didn't see this before.
I mostly deal with mites and Botrytis.
For mites you can use vegetal or refined oils with emulsifier, it acts as preventative and to control, it prevents the mites to move freely and suffocates them, it is quite effective if there isn`t webs yet. If there is webs, abamectin 3.6% will work very well, it is less toxic than neem or potasic soap. For botrytis I would try to control the environment, oils can be effective to a certain point, in which it will prevent the fungae to penetrate the vegetal mass, but if you try to erradicate, chemical is the way to go, sadly. I would look for the most non-toxic thing.
I use a mix 90% soy oil, 10% emulsifier, if I use it as surfactant, I use 1.5-2ml/l (4.5-6ml/gal for USA I think), as preventative 3ml/l and as a control/erradication 5ml/l and it works great, no mites at all, no PM too. PM dies almost instantly.
Please bear with my limited english, hope it helps.
 

hambre

Active member
Sorry, I didn't see this before.
I mostly deal with mites and Botrytis.
I don`t know if the rules let me post a link to a product in my country, I know you probably can`t buy it because it is agricultural liquid, so I think it shouldn`t be a problem, if there is a mod, I would like to know please. Just for reference.
 

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