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Constant problem at a building
- Thread starter Hookah79
- Start date
Try using peat base Pro mix BX with pure water fortified with cal-mag. and stop using anything you have already tried. Use the General Hydroponic flora series. Just buy one bale of Pro-mix BX at $75 and $50 on 3part small bottles of nutrients. Only run a few pots to save money. If the plants still fail then I would say your building is haunted. 
You say that the pH comes out of RO at 5.5 and that's wrong because you cant test RO water without at least 125 ppm in the water or you will get false readings when using a pocket pH pen. When you use pH up and down in the same water you will always cause yourself problems. Never use pH up and pH down in the same water "period"!
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One of two things could be the problem. "water issue" or "growing technique"! You keep trying to hold on to your water because everyone else is using it and having good results. If that is true then your growing technique is missing the mark. .
Lastly, I will say that water consistency is very important and when you use more than one water on a grow you will cause yourself problems. Never change the type of water in the middle of a grow. Also, if the "starting pH" swings, either way, when you add feed water or plain water, the nutrient availability will be affected causing an imbalance in the root zone. Always maintain a constant starting pH that is in the same starting range. If you use the same starting pH the plants will get a customed to the water and adapt. After adding the same starting water the pH will rise and that's ok but the starting pH is very important.
Lastly, I will say that water consistency is very important and when you use more than one water on a grow you will cause yourself problems. Never change the type of water in the middle of a grow. Also, if the "starting pH" swings, either way, when you add feed water or plain water, the nutrient availability will be affected causing an imbalance in the root zone. Always maintain a constant starting pH that is in the same starting range. If you use the same starting pH the plants will get a customed to the water and adapt. After adding the same starting water the pH will rise and that's ok but the starting pH is very important.
The CEO of the company called to give me the results.He said some of the minerals were abit above the standard EPA for drinking water.But again the city of Detroit serves other municipalities too where we’re not having issues with.I just emailed them to get more clarification on that.
The grow next door uses promix hp,and i did use the same watering frequency when using their water.
Yes i have and have nuked them just to rule it out previously.I have had russet mites before and they usually start from the bottom up.I have checked with 10x magnification and not seen anything.
It climbs up over night while aerating.After dumping nutes it drops down so i ph up.I never Ph up then Ph down.You say that the pH comes out of RO at 5.5 and that's wrong because you cant test RO water without at least 125 ppm in the water or you will get false readings when using a pocket pH pen. When you use pH up and down in the same water you will always cause yourself problems. Never use pH up and pH down in the same water "period"!
When using water straight from tap i would Ph down after dumping nutes
When using RO i have to ph up after dumping nutes.
But if my growing technique was bad i would be having issues all over .It is just this location.One of two things could be the problem. "water issue" or "growing technique"! You keep trying to hold on to your water because everyone else is using it and having good results. If that is true then your growing technique is missing the mark. .
Lastly, I will say that water consistency is very important and when you use more than one water on a grow you will cause yourself problems. Never change the type of water in the middle of a grow. Also, if the "starting pH" swings, either way, when you add feed water or plain water, the nutrient availability will be affected causing an imbalance in the root zone. Always maintain a constant starting pH that is in the same starting range. If you use the same starting pH the plants will get a customed to the water and adapt. After adding the same starting water the pH will rise and that's ok but the starting pH is very important.
I spoke to a fella today that has a bit of background in chemistry etc and i explained to him my situation he was curious on why i have that much copper in my water.
The second thing he mentioned was he has heard that if i grow next to a place that uses propane forklifts i could be dealing with bad fumes.
Now i have train tracks that separates my building and and a pallet manufacturer who have a propane tank 20 feet behind my property line which lies 50 feet behind my building.I do smell bad fumes at times while iam outside the building.I figured it’s worth mentioning it.
Three Berries
Active member
Close cell or other electronic transmission device?
Non-thermal Biological Effects of Non-Ionizing Radiation Via Water
Non-ionizing electromagnetic radiation can exert biological effects at the subcellular level by altering intramolecular and intermolecular hydrogen bonds. Hydro
eatgenius.com
Can someone highly intellectually break this downClose cell or other electronic transmission device?
Non-thermal Biological Effects of Non-Ionizing Radiation Via Water
Non-ionizing electromagnetic radiation can exert biological effects at the subcellular level by altering intramolecular and intermolecular hydrogen bonds. Hydroeatgenius.com
???Is it saying water Thats contaminated by radiation?
Three Berries
Active member
Are there any electronic transmitters close around? That article sounds like it affects the water inside the plant.Can someone highly intellectually break this down
Is it saying water Thats contaminated by radiation?
You were saying the issue continued on their supply, but by the time you went back to your supply, it was too late to compare?
You seemed to indicate the problem was present, but progressing at a different rate. I'm reading between the lines, for anything I might of missed
If they can make pro-mix work, then you should ask them for a pot full and see
I hope by now you have a line of plants all getting different treatment, and a couple moved out for different air
Inside the building? Just some wireless alarm sensors,and a wifi router.
Three Berries
Active member
No cell towers on the roof or in the back yard?
Iam treating 4 with ionic.2 from local RO water 2 from house water.1 plant at 100% 1 at 50% feed for both.I took a 5th one outdoor and will feed him local RO water.
With the batch from last year.I showed the plumber how bad they were getting.So as he started replacing the water main i was feeding them water from next door then rain water.They kept going downwards.When he finished i started feeding them from the tap unfiltered water,but they were too far gone by then.So 3-4 weeks of watering with an outside source didnt do a thing but they kept nose diving.I am going to try to get a small tent there and will bring fresh air just to compare.I think that would definitely isolate the offgassing suspicion.
There is some type of a tower somewhere behind my next door grower and the next building.No cell towers on the roof or in the back yard?
You are using dirty water, "pH up" and bubbling your water which pushes the pH into a high range. You didn't hear me when I said to try using PRO-Mix BX as a substrate. BX mix is a bio fungicide with vermiculite and mycorrhizae and it holds more water. If you use this substrate you will have to watch your water intake and use smaller containers. The good thing about BX is you will give the plants less overall water exposure because the vermiculite holds on to the water longer.
PRO Mix HP is easy to overwater too because the mix is so lightweight and hides it. Now that being said, "hear this". When one uses excess water with a lot of calcium in it, the plant will push the extra calcium as far as it can to the top of the plant through transpiration. The water vapor and gases exit via the stomata, but the calcium can't transpire and stays n the leaf and builds up bronzing the leaves. So over watering with a lot of calcium water will bronze the leaves. That's why using pure water with a small amount of cal-mag is key. Here's an example of a leaf and only using 129 ppm of cal mag. in pure water.
PRO Mix HP is easy to overwater too because the mix is so lightweight and hides it. Now that being said, "hear this". When one uses excess water with a lot of calcium in it, the plant will push the extra calcium as far as it can to the top of the plant through transpiration. The water vapor and gases exit via the stomata, but the calcium can't transpire and stays n the leaf and builds up bronzing the leaves. So over watering with a lot of calcium water will bronze the leaves. That's why using pure water with a small amount of cal-mag is key. Here's an example of a leaf and only using 129 ppm of cal mag. in pure water.
A small sick plant that i topped and moved it outside the building is the best it’s looked since getting sick.It’s been outside for about 10 days.The new growth off the topping is green.
I have been feeding 4 plants ionic nutes for 10 days.
50% to 100% strength.
2 with house water,2 with building RO water.
All 4 look practically the same at this point.
I will update with pictures of them in a few days.
Interesting. It's not looking like food or water then. You could be making some real progress here. Towards it being the room. Earlier you said that moving some out into the corridor seemed to make them better. Which gives even more weight to the idea.
You might end up using a tent in this place, and a constant supply of outside air for it. Closing off your plants from the buildings influence.
This one you moved out.. is it being fed from the same bucket as others indoors that are not getting better?
You might end up using a tent in this place, and a constant supply of outside air for it. Closing off your plants from the buildings influence.
This one you moved out.. is it being fed from the same bucket as others indoors that are not getting better?
First feed was from home then iv fed it twice from building RO water using ionic so that part is sketchy.It has also rained a few times so that’s that.
At this point iam learing towards an air quality canister test,but not sure how i would go to remediate the issue .Ozone generator or air purifier of some sort to remove fumes ? Idk…
Three Berries
Active member
Formaldehyde?
