Clones strictly for the purpose of keeping these strains alive while I'm gone on a trip soon.

[moose eater]

First pic shows Satori # 5 x three, and Goji OG #8 x five, then 3 Ghost Train Haze #1, and 10 Arjan's original Greenhouse Seeds Super Lemon Haze.

All were taken from the most unhappy mothers I believe I've ever cloned from. No, I don't subscribe to the myth of generational trauma in clones. Seen it disproven by my own neglect too many times.

Here ya' are. There was a lot more info in the pervious attempt to post this, but it vanished and pissed me off, so, luckily for you all, you get the Reader's Digest version.

The small and 'short in height' cupboard is my clone cupboard with one 4' shop hood with 2 bulbs in it, with the cupboard measuring about 18" or so, by close to 4 feet+.

And yes, they're ready for the next pot size up.. Soon I suspect. (I keep telling them that.... and they seem gullible enough to believe me).

If you see me singing the old standard, "Just lookin' for a home..." it's probably about these young ladies, as I only need 2 of each of them, or about 8 total. Probably hear back from a lucky individual in the next day or so who may or may not need a few of them... or more... I hope. I hate offing them, even when they're replaceable.

 

[Creeperpark]

They don't look that bad, they look like pretty good starts to me.

 

[moose eater]

They don't look that bad, they look like pretty good starts to me.

The clones are very much OK. Thriving, even.

The now-deceased mothers they came from were likely in the worst shape I've ever cloned from.

The bounce-back from death's door, from very sickly mothers to healthy clones, is not new to me. But this go-'round was far worse than normal as far as the mothers' health was concerned.

I typically get about 100% survival on my clones in most cases. This group I got 78% to 80% survival.

Typically, the riskiest part of my cloning process is when I'm removing them from a very humid dome and introducing them to a far less humid environment. I have techniques I use to minimize that stress.

I'll post more tomorrow or maybe the next day regarding how I reduce that stress and maximize success at that phase, as well as my more recent cloning mix and cloning method for cutting and treating the stems of the freshly cut specimens..

For now, it's back to a Johnny Depp movie about Whitey Bulger, and a joint of Satori #5 with my wife. Testing sealed freezer wares, as it were.

 

[moose eater]

When the clones are showing roots out the bottoms of the 1" cubes in the trays (AND WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE YOU CHECK!!! EVERY TIME!!), I minimally open the vents on the domes. I use the taller domes, making sure the edges seat fairly well to the trays, and leaving the outside edges of 1-inch cubes vacant in the 72-cube trays, so there's not a lot of leaf pushing against damp lids that might help to cause mold, or getting pinched in the joints. The lids are the tall domes with rotating cheapo vents in the ends and a larger vent on the top.

I barely crack these vents initially after the roots are showing in the trays, as stated above; just enough to start changing humidity downward ever so slightly in the domes..

The clone cupboard itself has a 4"+ square-ish, Dayton axial computer cooling fan at the end opposite the intake screens and vents in the pics, with a black 6-mil plastic hooded shroud on the outside of the structure at the outlet, as I do on all of my plywood grow boxes and mother cupboards, though in the case of the clone cupboard, unlike the 115 cfm muffin fans x 3 per larger grow box, the clone cupboard has ONE (about)-50 to 70 cfm axial computer-type muffin-style cooling fan. Much smaller space means a LOT less air movement needed. In fact, what I have there is still over-kill, in my opinion.

During initial cloning when the clones are under the domes, I unplug that fan altogether, and let the one 2-bulb, 4-ft. shop tube heat the small clone cupboard. The shop fixture in there hangs at what I'm guessing is about 4-5" above the top of the tall, vented domes' lids.

As time passes, after sighting roots coming out the bottoms of the cubes, maybe several days, I ever-so-slightly increase the openings of the dome vents, though never radically open, just a small amount, but spray the foliage more often as the slight ventilation increases, and I check very closely for any evidence of dryness in the cubes themselves. Earlier rooting clones will dry out faster. Common sense, right? Often spraying the foliage with just clean untreated H2O in the mister/sprayer, preferably below a ph of 7.

Once I move the clones from their relatively benign cloning medium (to be clarified at a later date's posting) into a diluted bloom formula (about half the strength of my full-strength bloom soilless mix formula, but with some added calcium, a medium light dose of Actinovate or Myco-Stop, etc., to precent fungus, and maybe a prophylactic modest dose of Azamax or similar), I leave the axial fan turned off and monitor the 3"x3" cubes that are no longer under any domes for any dryness.

I want the clones to cycle through waterings sufficiently to cause the roots to expand or grow in search of water, but not so much that they suffer ill effects of dehydration. There'll be plenty of opportunity in my life to cause them to suffer. Trust me.

When they've had several days to a week in that cupboard in 3"x3"x3" cubes with the axial fan still turned off and maintaining foliage spraying and adequate moisture in the cubes, I plug the axial muffin fan back in and let them breath better.

I'll continue later with my cloning mix or any other tangential but pertinent tidbits. I need to torque my wife's summer tires and rims on her vehicle and check the air pressure, and my gut's a bit upset at the moment, so maybe a bite of food is in order too..

I have a bit of a buzz on at the moment, so if something doesn't make sense, or seems out of order (quite likely; much of my life has been out of order and tangential) then please feel free to say so, and I'll try to reply in an understandable format.

 

[moose eater]

I mix my cloning mix/medium before taking any clones and let it sit to equalize the moisture content for 2-3 days. That, and I'm on the slow side where forward movement's involved these days.

My most recent reliable (for me) cloning mix is as follows (Note: in my list, '1-part' refers to a plastic 4-cup measuring cup, beat to snot and needing replacement, and 1-part is that cup mounded, so closer to 5+ cups in some cases, depending, as Pro-Mix, etc., is fluffy, and stacking a mounded cup isn't difficult, whereas vermiculite and other fine granular stuff only stacks so high without spillage.

A half-part is closer to a 2/3 or 5/8 4-cup measuring cup, due to the total amount in a full part as described above. (No, don't criticize my inherent and obvious eccentrics, just flow with it. It all works out. Trust me).

My cloning mix is:

4 parts BX Pro-Mix
2-1/2 Parts Vermiculite
2 Parts Perlite
2 TBSP low-mag garden lime (about 95% to 97% lime)
2 tsp DTE gypsum
2 tsp dolomite lime
2 tsp Mycorrhizae

Mix and hydrate with (per gallon of H2O):

1-1/2 to 2 ml Pro-Tekt
1/2 oz. Bio-Min Liquid calcium (1-0-0)
3/8 tsp Actinovate or comparable lighter to modest dose of Myco-Stop
4 drops SuperThrive (habit, for better or for worse)
<1/8-tsp Natural Down to adjust ph to about 6.2 from a ph of <7
2 ml Cal-Mag with lowest Mag possible
~5/8 tsp Gnatrol WDG

(*I used to add a tsp from an older jug of GreenLight Root Stimulator, but no more as it's no longer made, and sometimes I add about 2 ml from an old jug of Liquid Karma.

Moisten mix until it drips a little bit but not a lot when squeezed in the fist, and load into 72-cube tray inserts, making sure to not have any mix in perimeter of cubes. This will give 40 filled cubes, rather than 72 and keep the cuttings away from the edges and damp plastic dome.

I spray the inside of the dome with untreated well water.

Take a fresh clean bamboo skewer stick and poke a hole of desired depth into the medium in each of the 40 cubes.

-------------------------------------------
I use a clean, fresh safety razor and make steep cuts on the stems when taking clones from the mother from the most desirable tops. Perhaps 15-20 degrees off of parallel from the plant's stem. The cutting is at least 3 leaf nodes in length if possible or about 3 to 3-1/2 inches or so, maybe 4 inches at the most, on average.

The lower leaves are removed from the stem very carefully and any remnants cleanly removed, leaving at least one good pair of leaves at the top, and the top itself.

If a top doesn't possess the three layers of foliage at the bottom of the cutting, not including the set at the top and the top itself, then I often use the razor to make slight or minor incisions barely through the outer tissue on the cuttings in various places up to just below the depth I'll be dipping and burying the cuttings. These are rooting sites that the leaf nodes would've otherwise provided had they been present.

I use a combination of Hormex #8 and Dip-N-Grow liquid.

I dilute the Dip-N-Grow concentrate by adding enough to come over the line at the bottom of the dipping vial by about 50% more than the (minor) amount below the line but fill the dipping vial up to about 1/2" to 3/4" below the top of the dipping vial with untreated H2O..

Dip the defoliated cuttings 1/2" plus deeper into the solution than they will be planted in the mix. Hold the cuttings in the solution for a 5-second count.

Take the damp cutting and gently shake the excess solution from the stem, then dip into the Hormex #8 and coat the stem thoroughly, to above where it'll be buried in the medium, then flick the excess off, tapping it back and forth, firmly but gently against the inside of the Hormex cannister inside rim to get rid of the excess. Too much is as bad as too little with the coating of rooting powder..

Bury the stem in the mix, and firmly pack the mix around the stem to make sure there are no voids.

If the mix seems too dry, minor amounts of the hydration solution or untreated well water can be added to the open cubes at the end of the insert tray, and rock the tray back and forth to get the cubes better hydrated from beneath by doing so.

Mist the inside of the dome with untreated well water again and park the tray with the lid on it under whatever modest lighting on a 20-on 4-off, or even 19-on and 5-off.

Check the tray each day to make sure there's moisture on the inside of the dome lid.

Make sure your hands are clean when inspecting.

On the 2nd day perhaps spray the foliage very lightly and spray the dome if they need it. I tend to avoid spraying the foliage directly too much, as it can lead to rot. Otherwise, if sufficiently humid, leave it alone, and just continue checking regularly for evidence of moisture.

Too wet of a medium or too dry, either one, will potentially cause poor results.

After perhaps 6-7 days, you can carefully remove the tray and cock the 6-packs up on their edges slightly to see if roots are showing. By day 10 you should see -many- of the cubes have roots coming out. Though sometimes you might notice roots as early as day 4.

If the plants the cuttings came from were/are notably unhealthy, this might take a little bit longer.

Roots should be white with no obvious deformities.

Continue making sure the medium remains moist by adding H2O into the open cubes at the ends in small amounts when needed and tilting the tray back and forth to distribute the added H2O, but don't add so much that they're drowning.

Keep checking the color of the roots each day. Off-white isn't good, graying or browning is not good.

More later..

 

[moose eater]

Once the clones have matured enough that transplanting their dangly white roots from the 1" cubes in trays to 3"x3"x3" cubes without trays becomes a pain in the ass, or, preferably a little bit before then, I take a well-aged bloom mix and dilute that by about 50% or so. Maybe a little more potent than that, so as not to overwhelm the new starts, placing them back into the clone cupboard, leaving the circulation fan in that cupboard unplugged (off) for the 3 to 7 days I referenced above.

Continue monitoring the mix moisture and spraying the foliage.

If they look in need, use extremely light fertilizer mix in the foliar sprayer/mister and/or watering can, such as a low impact veg fertilizer. Even with a light fert in the foliar and watering jug, a person can over-do it, so be vigilant and observant. Walk softly and maintain a stout cec.

They've now been ready for the next up-potting, likely into 6" cylindrical pots, just because the 6" round pots have a bit greater depth and diameter than my 5"x5"x7" square pots.

Trouble is, they're ready and I'm not. Frequent occurrence. we adapt to each other, I guess.

The whole plan here is to have them at proper size to take significantly healthier cuttings from 2 plants of each remaining strain perhaps 2 days before I leave on a trip in July, so that they need virtually no maintenance while I'm gone.

Any bloom crops, to include the Blissful Wizard BX1 and Wizard Express that I've been sitting on seeds of, as well as other Bodhi stuff I've had lying about for more than a few years, and crosses that have been gifted to me, both recently and long ago, will be started after I return from the trip in July.

Keeps others from having to fuck around with things that they might not be prepared to mess with.

Proactive travel efforts, as it were.

If there's criticisms, complaints, added information, etc. to add herein, feel free to launch away. While I've been doing this for a long time, I truly don't know everything. In fact, other than for my observations and knowing what works for me, I often know very little.

 

[StickyBandit]

Good information Moose Do you have pics to go with it? I'm a comic book guy

 

[Ca++]

Good write up. Lots of detail, and no real drama. I like the lid on and walk away approach.

Have a re-read of your cloning mix. It doesn't quantify some things. Ratios, but not quantities.
My approach is really quite similar, but coco not compost. It's just what I usually have to hand.

 

[dramamine]

Good techniques, ME. Nice thread.

 

[moose eater]

Thanks.

Just got back from a lengthy trip to the Yukon Territory, and I'm tired and wired, with velocitosis sending me spinning a bit. feel like I'm still moving. A heavy class B camper van with recently over-done suspension and a relatively gutless 350 Chevy motor, with a 4-speed overdrive transmission that the three previous owners neglected, coupled with GM's notorious aging vacuum lines had me bouncing over frost heaves and potholes for 550 miles each way.

A 200 mg tab of Provigil, a couple Guinness Extra Stouts, and 4 puffs of my recently deceased 25-year-old Sensi Seeds California Indica got me home in a haze. Was there a pun in there? Might've been, but not specifically.

Anyway, I'll re-read my mix and technique as posted when I'm back to sane and more focused (like THAT'LL ever happen!!) and attempt to add any detail I might've left out. I'm typically accused of too much detail, though the non-sequitur tangential nature of its typical presentation sometimes detracts from the clarity.

Anyway, I'm seriously into some freshly made keto chocolate mint brownies with heavy whipping cream on top, for which my wife used fresh mint from the garden, letting it soak with the fair-trade Dutch cocoa and avocado oil to allow the infusion of flavors. VERY tasty. To be followed by a 93% lean burger with Swiss cheese, uncured, no sugar, hickory smoked bacon, fresh-sliced tomato, sliced dill pickle, sliced sweet onion, romaine lettuce, sprouted whole wheat 'Little Big Bread', unsweetened catsup, and a nap... Maybe another beer. And certainly, another toke.

More later... in other words.

 

[Loc Dog]

What were the symptoms in the mothers that died??? After battling spider mites from hell for almost a year, my mothers developed botrytis and lost 10 strains. Out of 30 cuts 1 survived, but worried about it coming back. Bought some clones recently, which were old and over grown and needing to be topped to fit box, which had obvious stem canker. The one would not grow towards light and had twisted leaves and died within days and another started showing in a week. They treated their mothers, but it does not cure it, and the clones must not have been treated. They could send out plants that would look great until given a month or 2 to develop. It worked from the bottom up indicating the mother or cutters had to be source. They would look like root rot but roots would be healthy.