Cheap Nutrient Line for Commercial and Home Grows?

[Coconaut81]

This thread motivated me to try Jack's over a year ago. Best move ive ever made! I still come back to this thread to brush up. Thank you so much for the guiding lights!

So NOW this thread has motivated me to learn how to use Masterblend as well. DTW coco under Samsung LM301s. After looking at the numbers compared to jacks, the magnesium and sulfer look AWFUL low for only requiring 1.2 grams of Epsom per gal.. (If MB and calnit are dosed at 2.4g a gallon) i intuitively want to dose the Mg half of Cal. Which would require 2-2.5gr Epsom per gallon. Anybody running to Mg issues with Masterblend/LEDs/coco?

 

[Coconaut81]

https://www.greenhousemegastore.com/calcium-nitrate-greenhouse-grade-50lb-bag

free shipping this week only! Act fast! This is a steal

 

[Coconaut81]

Been lurking for too long.. I bring the family gifts of CalNit. Lol. Thank you all for the wealth of knowledge.. hope some of you can utilize this deal.

 

[Three Berries]

Been lurking for too long.. I bring the family gifts of CalNit. Lol. Thank you all for the wealth of knowledge.. hope some of you can utilize this deal.

I just got a bag. The free shipping is worth the deal. Fertilizer has tripled around Illinois this year. I hear a lot of corn farmers are switching to soybeans because of the corn uses so much fertilizer and soybeans don't.

Ha, Illinois legalized hemp and use to grow a lot around here up to WW2. But their convoluted process paired with legalization of cannabis has the hemp program all tied up in knots. Seems the thc content must not exceed certain levels and must be tested. Probably see a lot more now though if they won't grow corn.

 

[exploziv]

And this is just the start of the problems in AG. Soon, water gonna be a problem, too!

 

[Three Berries]

And this is just the start of the problems in AG. Soon, water gonna be a problem, too!

The GMO corn can survive very well with little water as long as it gets a good start. We've had some pretty dry years in the last 20 but the big killer is too much rain. Currently the ground is saturated but not much ponding so things are just about right for the farmers. But that can change to too much. What really hurts around here is dry fall and winter.

 

[2nerdy]

Here's another good source of chelated Calcium without any Nitrogen.
https://www.millerchemical.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Calcium-Chelate-specimen-label.pdf

 

[kingape]

Hi @BillFarthing

If using peat and rice hull in the 2:1 ratio, do you add Dolomite Lime to raise the pH of the peat?

 

[elevation]

@BillFarthing

Bionova SiLution Silicic Acid

Buy the Bionova SiLution Silicic Acid at Hydrobuilder.com. Shop the entire line of Bio Nova products along with thousands of hydroponics supplies on sale now.

hydrobuilder.com

This any good, overpriced?

Or stick to Mr Fulvic + MSA?

 

[Sofa_king_what]

Question regarding Mr Fulvic... I use Jack's A and calnit as concentrated solutions at 100x, which are then dosed to my reservoir. Is it OK to just add Mr Fulvic to my calnit concentrated solution? Or does it need to be kept and dosed separately?

 

[Creeperpark]

Keep it Simple! The more simple the garden is, the easier it is to keep the plants thriving. All plants take in the essential nutrients they need for growth and leave the rest. Plants have a nutrient sequence in which they simplify the order or arrangement of nutrients they use. The sequence begins with Boron, which stimulates the root system to leach sugars into the medium and ends with potassium. All that other stuff is just a waste of money, time, and good growth.

The biological sequence of nutrient uptake​

The sequence starts with Boron, which activates 2. Silicon, which carries all other nutrients starting with 3. Calcium, which binds 4. Nitrogen forms amino acids, DNA and cell division. Amino acids form proteins such as chlorophyll and tag trace elements, especially 5. Magnesium, which transfers energy via 6. Phosphorus to 7. Carbon to form sugars, which go where 8. Potassium carries them. This is the basis of plant growth.

 

[Icemud]

I started with Earth Juice organics and had amazing results, but feeding was always a magic trick of timing the 48 hour bubbling (pH rise) to the plants needs and it was a major pain in the Arse.

I switched over to a simple salt based FoxFarm 3 part when I started to do breeding as my goal changed from a clean organic smoke to producing seeds, so salt based nutrients were much easier to use and pH swings were much easier to time out. The 3 part fox farm was really easy and produced some nice frosty buds.

Then I tried out Jacks 3-2-1 forumula and I'm hooked. Nothing could be easier than this. I measured out with a Teaspoon the dry weights per 5 gallons of r/o water and now literally I add 3 tsp of part 1, 2 tsp of part 2, and 1 tsp of epsom salt and its so far the best nutrients i've used yet...

With all 3 of the above nutrients, I do add (enzyme of choice), humic acid, bushdoctor (microbes and mycos) and in veg use a few drops of superthrive... and every once and a while add potassium silicate or a silicate dioxide.

Defintiely Jacks is pretty awesome, and for the price you definitely get a lot.

 

[NeDank]

MaxiGro, MaxiBloom, and Calmag

 

[Three Berries]

I use this both in the soil and as a dissolved concentrate. The concentrate I used a couple grows ago chasing a perceived potassium issue. But I add a couple tablespoons to any new soil per plant.

Langbeinite 0-0-22

downtoearthfertilizer.com

 

[GrimyGreasy]

Purely due to availability, can I use maxibloom as my base salt and add the fulvic and mpk per Bill's recommendation?

 

[CannaRed]

Keep it Simple! The more simple the garden is, the easier it is to keep the plants thriving. All plants take in the essential nutrients they need for growth and leave the rest. Plants have a nutrient sequence in which they simplify the order or arrangement of nutrients they use. The sequence begins with Boron, which stimulates the root system to leach sugars into the medium and ends with potassium. All that other stuff is just a waste of money, time, and good growth.

The biological sequence of nutrient uptake​

The sequence starts with Boron, which activates 2. Silicon, which carries all other nutrients starting with 3. Calcium, which binds 4. Nitrogen forms amino acids, DNA and cell division. Amino acids form proteins such as chlorophyll and tag trace elements, especially 5. Magnesium, which transfers energy via 6. Phosphorus to 7. Carbon to form sugars, which go where 8. Potassium carries them. This is the basis of plant growth.

That makes it sound so easy.. but if they leave the rest then why is over fertilization an issue?
Not trying to start argument, just wanted to hear the science of it. Nutrient toxicity isn't actually nutrient toxicity?
Thanks!!

 

[Creeperpark]

That makes it sound so easy.. but if they leave the rest then why is over fertilization an issue?
Not trying to start argument, just wanted to hear the science of it. Nutrient toxicity isn't actually nutrient toxicity?
Thanks!!

The high build-up of excess salts will dehydrate the plant by sucking the moisture out of the plants. Water always follows salt and when the amount of salt becomes higher in the soil than in the plant the plant will burn.

How does salt affect the movement of water?
Osmosis, however, works in both directions. If you put a plant into water with a salt concentration that is higher than the concentration inside its cells, water will move out of the plant to balance out the concentration difference.Jan 9, 2020 Google

 

[Creeperpark]

When the nutrients are in small quantities the salts remain low in large amounts of water. The plants can take what they need so to speak. However, when water evaporation happens, the salt concentration rises from the amount of water evaporating. Using large amounts of fertilizers the salts will accumulate in the substrate after the water leaves. That's why for me its best to use smaller amounts of fertilizers in every watering to keep the salt build-up down.

 

[Three Berries]

How to best get rid of the salts is the issue once the pH drops and lockout starts. Flushing with plain water is rather time and water consuming and not really effective.

I've got two that have been stubbornly below 6.0 but as of today one is 6.1 and the other is 6.4. Been buffering the rain water with MgCO3 and finally decided to buffer the already buffered hard well water with quite a bit of excess, 3gr per gallon. This settles out and will work through the soil.

MGCO3 is insoluble in water but will react with an acid. Adding it to a gallon of 6.2 rain water increases the ppm to about 75 or so, ~15mg Mg per liter in my case. Adding 250 mg of the MGCO3, anymore and it settles out.

I also add 15% perlite to the already perlited soil mixes. Kind of makes them like a coco soil as it really runs through. With summer temps and the flower tent running hot an dry they need water twice a day now in 3.5 gallon pots.

 

[slownickel]

The best way to get rid of salts is push gypsum or calcium carbonate. We bring in a source from Colombia that is 99.99 CaCO3 and is micronized, great at 2 gr/gal.