Cheap Nutrient Line for Commercial and Home Grows?

CannaRed

Cannabinerd
Here's why I ask-
I posted this in Why Purple thread (excuse the spelling of the warning.):
just heard PotentPonic Steve say that you can raise molybdenum up to .1ppm even all the way to 1ppm and this will turn purple plants purple with no other Ill effects from toxicity. This only works with plants that have the genetic capability to turn purple of course.
I wouldn't go over 1ppm. There's a warning on the label of RapidStart that's says "excessive levels of molybdenum can be hazardous to rudimentary animals" and alot of folk are eating cannabis nowadays.
Here's the link to the podcast where he mentions it. He speaks of molybdenum at 00:51:43
https://anchor.fm/cheaphomegrow/epis...e-Panel-ehl0jh
 
Here's why I ask-
I posted this in Why Purple thread (excuse the spelling of the warning.):


Anthocyanins and senescence can be induced by cold night temps or properly flushing calcium by the end of flower.



That's the first time I've heard molybdenum for that purpose. I still learn something new every day.
 

Legalcdn

Well-known member
I've talked to that company, very knowledgeable, but they only do wholesale.



The thing about Ful-Power is that you are paying to ship water. Seems pretty wasteful to me.

I hate shipping water also but there are not many options for home growers. Mr fulvic is liquid. Hard to to find soluable dry fulvic/humic. It peaks my interest to get some..
 
I realized some formulations must be a liquid. Growmore flowering cal-mag ingredients have to be combined in a very specific order and can't exist as a soluble. Mr. Fulvic is a liquid to preserve amino and organic acids. You can get around this by getting the greatest concentration liquid possible.



What about powdered shilajit?


Shilajit is a good source of fulvic acid. It does have a huge carbon (humate pun *snort*) footprint. My buddy was talking about Gilsonite- "American shilajit", which may also be an option.
 

Koondense

Well-known member
Masterblend vs Megacrop
Which would you buy for soil?
(I already have the Calcium nitrate and Magnesium sulfate)



Thanks
 

Legalcdn

Well-known member
I found a company jn ontario that provides fulvic dry. Not sure on the extraction process but they claim to be organic and do business in usa too. Agsol canada.

Fulvic at 70% with 3% K2O.

They lots of products.

I really liked megacrop in soil. Cheap also..
 
Masterblend vs Megacrop
Which would you buy for soil?
(I already have the Calcium nitrate and Magnesium sulfate)



Thanks


Megacrop works for soil. It does not work for hydro/drippers because it uses a cheap Chinese humic acid that preciptates.

If you plan on adding your own biostimulants, Masterblend is clean and a complete formula. And cheaper per gallon than Megacrop.
 
I found a company jn ontario that provides fulvic dry. Not sure on the extraction process but they claim to be organic and do business in usa too. Agsol canada.

Fulvic at 70% with 3% K2O.

They lots of products.

I really liked megacrop in soil. Cheap also..


70% fulvic is V&B testing. It is dramatically lower with ISO/LAMAR testing. The potassium content also means that it is chemically hydroxide extracted.



If it is totally soluble in water, try it. It can't hurt.
 
Anthocyanins and senescence can be induced by cold night temps or properly flushing calcium by the end of flower.



That's the first time I've heard molybdenum for that purpose. I still learn something new every day.

A small restriction on water too..? I noticed some good result when lowering the water supply towards the end. Its also colder night temps now too so unsure here..
 

Koondense

Well-known member
Megacrop works for soil. It does not work for hydro/drippers because it uses a cheap Chinese humic acid that preciptates.

If you plan on adding your own biostimulants, Masterblend is clean and a complete formula. And cheaper per gallon than Megacrop.

Perfect answer, many thanks Bill!

Cheers
 

H G Griffin

Well-known member
All this fulvic talk has got me interested. I was just speaking to my local garden shop and they are bringing in some Royal Gold from Future Harvest. Does anyone have any experience with this line? It's a BC company, according to a quick search.
 
All this fulvic talk has got me interested. I was just speaking to my local garden shop and they are bringing in some Royal Gold from Future Harvest. Does anyone have any experience with this line? It's a BC company, according to a quick search.


It's interesting- It is gold in color meaning actual fulvic. There's no potassium, so not hydroxide extracted.



The thing that peaks my interest is that they used phosphoric acid to get the humic acid to fall out instead of citric acid. This is actually an ok quality and unique formulation for a fulvic acid.
 

H G Griffin

Well-known member
It's interesting- It is gold in color meaning actual fulvic. There's no potassium, so not hydroxide extracted.



The thing that peaks my interest is that they used phosphoric acid to get the humic acid to fall out instead of citric acid. This is actually an ok quality and unique formulation for a fulvic acid.

What I understand of your post sounds promising. ;) Thank you.

I'm fairly dialed in with my spaces and haven't made any significant changes for a while. I also have a few moms that I know quite well, so it should be pretty easy to see any benefit from a new addition. I'll update as I learn.
 
I'm fairly dialed in with my spaces


You may notice tips burning from excess nitrogen if the fulvic is high quality. You may have to reduce your base fertilizer usage 10-25%.



You may also notice earlier flower set and frost from adding fulvic. There's a reason I recommend this stuff with a little kelp all over biostimulants.
 
Bill what are your thoughts on lowering/dropping the Cal nit after budset?


I have personally dropped the cal nit levels ~10% after transition (stretch) with light feeding strains like cookies or old school sativas. The timing on that is because the plant has the highest calcium needs while transitioning into flower.



If you have a heavy feeding strain like GG4, I wouldn't reduce the cal nit. I would increase the part A that contains the micros. For example, Jack's 3/2 in a recirculating system may become Jack's up to 3.6/2 g.
 
Last edited:

wantaknow

ruger 500
I can suggest wizard npk from utube, he has a line he sells cheap, and it’s his own line, not just a label on the bottle,has some most excellent grows and info also, I wish I had his resources when I started,
 
@wantaknow that link looks like spam. All that information is free on icmag or I will give it to you for for no cost to you by clicking the link in my signature.
 

Bio boy

Active member
I use advanced phperfect. Using humic and fulvic acids they say the ph is avalible between 4 and 8 and do not touch it with pj as ya mess up the chelates.?



Ive read somuch into this. And used to usr lucad forumula. I am dying to try it but the ph perfect an has derved me for 6years now no ph pen and i love that lol.



I wana use thia stuff. Theres some addatives i use from advanced i love like there nirvana with bat guano kelp yucca ectracts and other bits thats really work well. Can i readd these raw or use advanced addatives like nirvana on jacks line?



I grew my tomatoes on masterblend but my meds im scared.





Are salts classed as organic or chemical cause they dont seem chemicaly but i am told they are?
 

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