firetech89
Active member
Thank you for the quick response. I have multiple post with days of views but no responses. Thank you again. Will check out the provideo info and start getting a game plan rolled out.
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Building a Home Made LED
- Thread starter tenthirty
- Start date
Thank you for the quick response. I have multiple post with days of views but no responses. Thank you again. Will check out the provideo info and start getting a game plan rolled out.
nightridda
Member
Switching
Switching
Hello friends
I am currently looking into building a huge led light for my two flower rooms. My rooms me sure 10 by 8 feet. (2 of them) can someone please point me in the right direction to a diy site or anything really .. everything I see is for little tiny tents and tiny spaces. I don't care if your idea is 4 lights in a room or what not. Kind of just need a push to the right direction please. And a good site to order from
Switching
Hello friends
I am currently looking into building a huge led light for my two flower rooms. My rooms me sure 10 by 8 feet. (2 of them) can someone please point me in the right direction to a diy site or anything really .. everything I see is for little tiny tents and tiny spaces. I don't care if your idea is 4 lights in a room or what not. Kind of just need a push to the right direction please. And a good site to order from AvidLerner
Member
8 CBX3590 36v, 3500K, 80cri, with 2-HLG-185H-1400B will cover 4x4 area with good numbers. So four of these would work for you. You can get kits from here ->http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2903 peace
Hello everyone, I'm looking at building a unit that will fill out a 5x5' space nicely.
I've seen Cree CXB3590's as well as Bridgelux Vero 29's mentioned frequently. I also realize there are COBS made under the name Citizen available as well. What in your educated opinions would be the most future proof and overall efficient combo to go with in my space?
Would sticking with the standard HLG 240H-C1050 paired with 12 CXB 3590s be the best option or are there more current models that would be worth looking at? Also what is the consensus on sticking with 3500k solely vs throwing in some 4-5000k diodes as well?
I've seen Cree CXB3590's as well as Bridgelux Vero 29's mentioned frequently. I also realize there are COBS made under the name Citizen available as well. What in your educated opinions would be the most future proof and overall efficient combo to go with in my space?
Would sticking with the standard HLG 240H-C1050 paired with 12 CXB 3590s be the best option or are there more current models that would be worth looking at? Also what is the consensus on sticking with 3500k solely vs throwing in some 4-5000k diodes as well?
jikko77
Active member
some say citizen are doing great.
cree do great, vero aren't that far.
depends on what kind of pannel "setup" you wanna use.
growt regulator respond to different "light", an "a good for all" pannel can be achived with a 3500cct; on the other hand, and this is my personal opinion (not tested yet), a combo of high cct and high cri, with an addition of low cct and low cri, would provide some interesting result.
i prefer push them to "half way" with a 1400mA current, then dim them at 700 if needed/wanted. (personal "taste").
good luck
cree do great, vero aren't that far.
depends on what kind of pannel "setup" you wanna use.
growt regulator respond to different "light", an "a good for all" pannel can be achived with a 3500cct; on the other hand, and this is my personal opinion (not tested yet), a combo of high cct and high cri, with an addition of low cct and low cri, would provide some interesting result.
i prefer push them to "half way" with a 1400mA current, then dim them at 700 if needed/wanted. (personal "taste").
good luck
Dion
Active member
In the "Chips" section of your FAQ (good read btw) you state you have and will never use Bridgelux.
So from what I am understanding I think my best option is to go with aprox 10 Vero 29 gen 7 ran on two of the HLG 320-C1050B.
Is this too much voltage for my COBS? I realize I can dim them, should I go with a lighter duty driver? Again this is for a 5x5 space.
Does anyone have a surefire source for the gen 7 Vero's? I'm seeing the BXRC-35E10K0-L-03 for about 29$ but I'm not certain that is gen 7 or even the right voltage. RapidLED has them at about 25$ but again I don't know if they are the newest gen.
Sorry about all my newb questions, I really appreciate everything the COB led community has contributed to our hobby. As someone who has been waiting for this tech to become fully feasible for almost a decade one can not imagine how exciting this is for me. Heat tends to be an issue in my current circumstance so ditching the HIDs ( I would normally run between 1K-1200W in the 5x5) for more efficient tech is exactly what I need to stay in work year round.
Is this too much voltage for my COBS? I realize I can dim them, should I go with a lighter duty driver? Again this is for a 5x5 space.
Does anyone have a surefire source for the gen 7 Vero's? I'm seeing the BXRC-35E10K0-L-03 for about 29$ but I'm not certain that is gen 7 or even the right voltage. RapidLED has them at about 25$ but again I don't know if they are the newest gen.
Sorry about all my newb questions, I really appreciate everything the COB led community has contributed to our hobby. As someone who has been waiting for this tech to become fully feasible for almost a decade one can not imagine how exciting this is for me. Heat tends to be an issue in my current circumstance so ditching the HIDs ( I would normally run between 1K-1200W in the 5x5) for more efficient tech is exactly what I need to stay in work year round.
Dion
Active member
yeah, true
bridgilux has been working hard releasing new generation while cree has been promising higher binnings, new chips and delivers.....soon?
i wrote that before you could even really get ur hands on CXB3590s
we will see how good the new Vero 29 will be once it's released but according to the data sheet looks mint
http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/defa...3 Vero 29 Array Data Sheet Rev E 20160829.pdf
earthwyrms
Active member
sorry there sin, i have been not checking up on my posts for awhile.
so 500mA will be 500mA divided by 700mA, being .714285714 ~71.4% at 71.4 percent watts, it is possible that the efficiency output of the LED is subpar. if i am not mistaken, there is an optimal range where output is most efficient, for example, a just under threshold wattage might use up energy but not have crossed the threshold where the LED is emitting photons. someone please correct any of this if it is wrong.
in electrical circuits, putting + to - in a series is called series, like when putting batteries one after another. in a battery supply, 1.5v + 1.5v is 3v, in LEDs if one needs 1.5v and you link 2 in series, then you will need 3v to run it.
parallel is when you hook up + to + and - to - so two 1.5v batteries will have double current, so putting two 3.6V 700mA LEDs in series would need 7.2V and putting that in parallel (2x2 now) would be 7.2V for the series part and 1.4A for the parallel part (700mA is 0.700A, two is 1.4 A or 1400mA, wattage is V x A = Watts)
you probably don't want to sequence to many LEDs in series if you can avoid it, because the is a voltage drop that occurs across the length of the change. i don't know if it is the voltage across each successive LED chip is a fraction less or if the overall chain of LEDs has an averaged lower voltage across each of chip. someone also please clarify this.
either way, the higher the voltage, the less the voltage loss (bzzzt nikoli tesla muhahaha)
so, the links i posted have drivers but there seem to be only 600mA not 500mA or 700mA. 600mA is about 85.7% , which is a little better. as far as getting them hooked up on 600mA that is straight forward, the drivers on the sellers ebay store will turn up drivers if "600mA driver" is searched but there are better ways.
so 500mA will be 500mA divided by 700mA, being .714285714 ~71.4% at 71.4 percent watts, it is possible that the efficiency output of the LED is subpar. if i am not mistaken, there is an optimal range where output is most efficient, for example, a just under threshold wattage might use up energy but not have crossed the threshold where the LED is emitting photons. someone please correct any of this if it is wrong.
in electrical circuits, putting + to - in a series is called series, like when putting batteries one after another. in a battery supply, 1.5v + 1.5v is 3v, in LEDs if one needs 1.5v and you link 2 in series, then you will need 3v to run it.
parallel is when you hook up + to + and - to - so two 1.5v batteries will have double current, so putting two 3.6V 700mA LEDs in series would need 7.2V and putting that in parallel (2x2 now) would be 7.2V for the series part and 1.4A for the parallel part (700mA is 0.700A, two is 1.4 A or 1400mA, wattage is V x A = Watts)
you probably don't want to sequence to many LEDs in series if you can avoid it, because the is a voltage drop that occurs across the length of the change. i don't know if it is the voltage across each successive LED chip is a fraction less or if the overall chain of LEDs has an averaged lower voltage across each of chip. someone also please clarify this.
either way, the higher the voltage, the less the voltage loss (bzzzt nikoli tesla muhahaha
)so, the links i posted have drivers but there seem to be only 600mA not 500mA or 700mA. 600mA is about 85.7% , which is a little better. as far as getting them hooked up on 600mA that is straight forward, the drivers on the sellers ebay store will turn up drivers if "600mA driver" is searched but there are better ways.
earthwyrms
Active member
i thought there was something about the resistance/ohms that changes with making a parallel array. please tell me more about this, i know zener diodes are used in the 9 band 140W (128W lights, 12W fans) lights on ebay but i don't know if they use resistors because i haven't asked the sellers/makers or took it apart.
i was also thinking about arcing with the higher volts, being that they have to be on heat sinks which are aluminum. i don't know how much the oxide coating insulates the metal and stray contact with the LEDs could cause an arc. it would have to be insulated well, maybe RTV silion coating terminals would work.
earthwyrms
Active member
sin, i am looking at drivers
searching "constant current led 200w"
it looks like the general items on ebay that are,
200W: (Input Voltage：85-277V,Output Voltage:18-36V,Output Current ：6000MA±5%)
(Size:257mmx69mmmm5mmmmx38mm,Weight:1053g)
300W: (Input Voltage：85-277V,Output Voltage:28-36V,Output Current ：9000MA±5%)
(Size:257mmx69mmmm5mmmmx38mm,Weight:1053g)
,get close to ideal. with 150pieces at 3W that is 450W so any remainder can be parted together in a second or third light or all wired up with different power supplies, on the same heatsink platform.
quickly here is the 200W: 36V (10 chips in series) 6000mA (6000/700= 8.57...round up --->9, 6000/9 = 666 2/3 mA) = 9 parallel, (x 10 series) = 90 chips, remainder 60 chips
and the 300W: 36V (10 chips in series) 9000mA (9000/700= 12.85...round up --->13, 9000/13 = 692.3076923mA) = 13 parallel, (x 10 series) = 130 chips, remainder 20 chips
if 300W, then you need about a ~"60W" supply for the 20 chip remainder, 36V 1400mA, 72V 700mA, 18V 2800mA
or buy 10 extra LED chips and get a 36V 2100mA (10 series, 3 parallel, 30 chips)
200W actual 36V x 6A = 216W
chip (3.6V x 6/9A) / (3.6V x .7A) x 100 = 95.23809524 % chip wattage max
300W actual 36V x 9A = 324W
chip (3.6V x 9/13A) / (3.6V x .7A) x 100 = 98.9010989 % chip wattage max
and for a different approach,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...r-Led-Power-Supply-AC-100V-240V-/391134587736
10W 20W 30W 40W 50W 70W constant current Driver Led Power Supply AC 100V-240V
type unit of 70W is DC 27-36V 2100mA 70W, actual 36V x 2.1A = 75.6W
10 series 3.6V, 3 parallel 700mA, 30 chip total
needs 150/30 drivers, 5 drivers
theoretical drive is 3.6V 700mA per chip,
if that is 100 % chip maximum wattage or optimal running conditions, is unclear. actual chip max is questionable, if the specs for the LED chips are optimal running characteristics, then it is 100 % of optimal operating specs,
if they are a max driving specifications (3.2-3.6V 700mA), then a +/-5 % variance in current (which is standard in these power supplies, it seems)
would fluxuate over maximum specifications. 1.05x = 700, = 666 2/3 mA would put the mA at or under 700mA with a 5% fluctuation, it seems. (2/3A + 0.05 x 2/3A = 7A) (666 2/3 mA = 2/3A). 2/3A safe zone
with 5 70W, if the unit is $16.68, 5 are needed, $83.4, free shipping. (link above)
with 1 200W (and leaving out the 60 chip remainder), $67.45 free shipping (factored in shipping)
with 1 300W (and leaving out the 20 chip remainder), $119, free shipping
36V 6000mA constant current waterproof driver, 200W, $67.45
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200W-Waterp...AC85-277V-to-DC24-36V-6A-6000mA-/231538512015
36V 2100mA, 70W constant current driver, $16.68, free shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...r-Led-Power-Supply-AC-100V-240V-/391134587736
$16.68 x 2 = $33.36
200W (and two 70W) = $67.45 + $33.36 = $100.81
this one is 2/3A per chip which is good if the led chips are not supposed to exceed 700mA, if that is not the case, the best choice is probably skipping the 300Ws efficiency and get straight to 100% with the 5 "70W" drivers, which is still the cheapest too and gives you the opportunity of dimming by turning on or off any number of the 5 power supplies and to have one giant light or 5 strategically placed.
36V 9000mA constant current waterproof driver, 300W, $119
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Power-...nt-Waterproof-LED-Driver-Supply-/112005718467
10 pcs 3W full spectrum bridgelux, $3.90 + $0.99 shipping, $4.89
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pc-3W-ful...hts-F-hydroponics-20mm-star-pcb-/252055652465
(search store for "3w full spectrum" for other options, like no pcb)
36V 2100mA, 70W constant current driver, $16.68, free shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...r-Led-Power-Supply-AC-100V-240V-/391134587736
300W = $119 + $4.89 + $16.68 = $140.57
i am still not sure about heatsinks, i only have 50 chips, and the bulky ones i found are probably good without a fan even for some amount, but for 130 chips, i am not sure where to find a great heatsink yet.
these look alright; though, i am unsure about what is sufficient. one heatsink seemingly won't cover it.
4x somewhat large heatsinks
here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-LARGE-...cm-2-for-LED-transistor-or-IGBT-/322067047510
$62.90 free shipping
and
4x somewhat large heatsinks
here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Large-Re...1-x2-1-4-X1-1-2-Audio-Amp-DIY-L-/171829495567
$80 free shipping
maybe
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-Alluminum-Heat-Sink-Heatsink-12-X-5-5-4lbs-/222160336398
i was looking for heatsinks that use passive cooling so even with a fan failure, it would be operational, and then put fans on them for more efficiency of cooling.
also there are meanwell 36v 700ma power supplies (APC-25-700) for about $11, so instead of getting 10 more LEDs (300W driver route), you could get 2 of those, but you'll get 30 more watts the other way for about the same. $16.68 + $4.89 = 21.57, needs a heatsink, or tack it on to the 300W monster heatsink you might have for nothing. the two meanwells would be about $22 + shipping, already more
also, they make a meanwell 36v 1400ma (LPC-100-1400), but it is 36-72V 1.4A, so i am unsure about it. i am unsure how the 10 LEDs in series can be prevented from running 72V instead of 36V, but it seems to be built in, but also there's a risk there unless it is known, so more knowledgeable people have to answer that. i emailed a driver company in the meantime.
https://power.sager.com/apc-25-700-2719402.html (11-36V .7A)
https://power.sager.com/lpc-100-1400-3931683.html (36-72V 1.4A)
it looks like most people making lights have some access to plate like heatsinks with considerable metal. i still don't know how/where they build/source it. i don't have welding capabilities yet. i still haven't thoroughly searched about it online; however, anyone please post info about it if you can
thanks
also, if you check my post on page 89, there is links to 7 band (7 actual individual bands of nm that plants like) up to "100W" 87.5W max (25V 3.5A), 84W with 24V 3.5A and
full spectrum (bridgelux plant chips, that fill an area under the curve of what plants like, up to 200W) COBs
the individual bands seem to be the best bet, with a supplementary amount of the full spectrum to smooth in any missing wavelengths (as an alternative to using white light which would fill with a different light curve, ratio or whatever), the far red band is in both lights and some UV.
there is one amber color (?nm) that isn't in the 7 band LED. it is seemingly in the full spectrum diodes. it looks like amber is a color that is absorbed at a peak/sub peak cross section.
also note the 3W are actually 3.6V x .7A, 2.52A, the same way the power supplies are generalized as well. 150 x 2.52 is 378W (compared to 450W) and that is if they are driven at 3.6Volts 0.7Ampheres. if you do want to run at 500mA you can use a 36V 2A driver and put 10 in series and four of those in parallel, 40 chips at 3.6V x .5A, 1.8W.
searching "constant current led 200w"
it looks like the general items on ebay that are,
200W: (Input Voltage：85-277V,Output Voltage:18-36V,Output Current ：6000MA±5%)
(Size:257mmx69mmmm5mmmmx38mm,Weight:1053g)
300W: (Input Voltage：85-277V,Output Voltage:28-36V,Output Current ：9000MA±5%)
(Size:257mmx69mmmm5mmmmx38mm,Weight:1053g)
,get close to ideal. with 150pieces at 3W that is 450W so any remainder can be parted together in a second or third light or all wired up with different power supplies, on the same heatsink platform.
quickly here is the 200W: 36V (10 chips in series) 6000mA (6000/700= 8.57...round up --->9, 6000/9 = 666 2/3 mA) = 9 parallel, (x 10 series) = 90 chips, remainder 60 chips
and the 300W: 36V (10 chips in series) 9000mA (9000/700= 12.85...round up --->13, 9000/13 = 692.3076923mA) = 13 parallel, (x 10 series) = 130 chips, remainder 20 chips
if 300W, then you need about a ~"60W" supply for the 20 chip remainder, 36V 1400mA, 72V 700mA, 18V 2800mA
or buy 10 extra LED chips and get a 36V 2100mA (10 series, 3 parallel, 30 chips)
200W actual 36V x 6A = 216W
chip (3.6V x 6/9A) / (3.6V x .7A) x 100 = 95.23809524 % chip wattage max
300W actual 36V x 9A = 324W
chip (3.6V x 9/13A) / (3.6V x .7A) x 100 = 98.9010989 % chip wattage max
and for a different approach,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...r-Led-Power-Supply-AC-100V-240V-/391134587736
10W 20W 30W 40W 50W 70W constant current Driver Led Power Supply AC 100V-240V
type unit of 70W is DC 27-36V 2100mA 70W, actual 36V x 2.1A = 75.6W
10 series 3.6V, 3 parallel 700mA, 30 chip total
needs 150/30 drivers, 5 drivers
theoretical drive is 3.6V 700mA per chip,
if that is 100 % chip maximum wattage or optimal running conditions, is unclear. actual chip max is questionable, if the specs for the LED chips are optimal running characteristics, then it is 100 % of optimal operating specs,
if they are a max driving specifications (3.2-3.6V 700mA), then a +/-5 % variance in current (which is standard in these power supplies, it seems)
would fluxuate over maximum specifications. 1.05x = 700, = 666 2/3 mA would put the mA at or under 700mA with a 5% fluctuation, it seems. (2/3A + 0.05 x 2/3A = 7A) (666 2/3 mA = 2/3A). 2/3A safe zone
with 5 70W, if the unit is $16.68, 5 are needed, $83.4, free shipping. (link above)
with 1 200W (and leaving out the 60 chip remainder), $67.45 free shipping (factored in shipping)
with 1 300W (and leaving out the 20 chip remainder), $119, free shipping
36V 6000mA constant current waterproof driver, 200W, $67.45
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200W-Waterp...AC85-277V-to-DC24-36V-6A-6000mA-/231538512015
36V 2100mA, 70W constant current driver, $16.68, free shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...r-Led-Power-Supply-AC-100V-240V-/391134587736
$16.68 x 2 = $33.36
200W (and two 70W) = $67.45 + $33.36 = $100.81
this one is 2/3A per chip which is good if the led chips are not supposed to exceed 700mA, if that is not the case, the best choice is probably skipping the 300Ws efficiency and get straight to 100% with the 5 "70W" drivers, which is still the cheapest too and gives you the opportunity of dimming by turning on or off any number of the 5 power supplies and to have one giant light or 5 strategically placed.
36V 9000mA constant current waterproof driver, 300W, $119
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Power-...nt-Waterproof-LED-Driver-Supply-/112005718467
10 pcs 3W full spectrum bridgelux, $3.90 + $0.99 shipping, $4.89
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pc-3W-ful...hts-F-hydroponics-20mm-star-pcb-/252055652465
(search store for "3w full spectrum" for other options, like no pcb)
36V 2100mA, 70W constant current driver, $16.68, free shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...r-Led-Power-Supply-AC-100V-240V-/391134587736
300W = $119 + $4.89 + $16.68 = $140.57
i am still not sure about heatsinks, i only have 50 chips, and the bulky ones i found are probably good without a fan even for some amount, but for 130 chips, i am not sure where to find a great heatsink yet.
these look alright; though, i am unsure about what is sufficient. one heatsink seemingly won't cover it.
4x somewhat large heatsinks
here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-LARGE-...cm-2-for-LED-transistor-or-IGBT-/322067047510
$62.90 free shipping
and
4x somewhat large heatsinks
here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Large-Re...1-x2-1-4-X1-1-2-Audio-Amp-DIY-L-/171829495567
$80 free shipping
maybe
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-Alluminum-Heat-Sink-Heatsink-12-X-5-5-4lbs-/222160336398
i was looking for heatsinks that use passive cooling so even with a fan failure, it would be operational, and then put fans on them for more efficiency of cooling.
also there are meanwell 36v 700ma power supplies (APC-25-700) for about $11, so instead of getting 10 more LEDs (300W driver route), you could get 2 of those, but you'll get 30 more watts the other way for about the same. $16.68 + $4.89 = 21.57, needs a heatsink, or tack it on to the 300W monster heatsink you might have for nothing. the two meanwells would be about $22 + shipping, already more
also, they make a meanwell 36v 1400ma (LPC-100-1400), but it is 36-72V 1.4A, so i am unsure about it. i am unsure how the 10 LEDs in series can be prevented from running 72V instead of 36V, but it seems to be built in, but also there's a risk there unless it is known, so more knowledgeable people have to answer that. i emailed a driver company in the meantime.
https://power.sager.com/apc-25-700-2719402.html (11-36V .7A)
https://power.sager.com/lpc-100-1400-3931683.html (36-72V 1.4A)
it looks like most people making lights have some access to plate like heatsinks with considerable metal. i still don't know how/where they build/source it. i don't have welding capabilities yet. i still haven't thoroughly searched about it online; however, anyone please post info about it if you can
thanks
also, if you check my post on page 89, there is links to 7 band (7 actual individual bands of nm that plants like) up to "100W" 87.5W max (25V 3.5A), 84W with 24V 3.5A and
full spectrum (bridgelux plant chips, that fill an area under the curve of what plants like, up to 200W) COBs
the individual bands seem to be the best bet, with a supplementary amount of the full spectrum to smooth in any missing wavelengths (as an alternative to using white light which would fill with a different light curve, ratio or whatever), the far red band is in both lights and some UV.
there is one amber color (?nm) that isn't in the 7 band LED. it is seemingly in the full spectrum diodes. it looks like amber is a color that is absorbed at a peak/sub peak cross section.
also note the 3W are actually 3.6V x .7A, 2.52A, the same way the power supplies are generalized as well. 150 x 2.52 is 378W (compared to 450W) and that is if they are driven at 3.6Volts 0.7Ampheres. if you do want to run at 500mA you can use a 36V 2A driver and put 10 in series and four of those in parallel, 40 chips at 3.6V x .5A, 1.8W.
Last edited:
Shatterstar
New member
Looking to piece my own serviceable LED light, I have a question though, I dont really understand all the technical data that is being posted about the voltages and spectrum etc.. but I can build stuff! Would it be possible to just get a shopping list of the goto META setup and just put it together? Or do I really need to know all the technical stuff? Thanks guys.
P.S. Doing a 4x4 tent, looking to have enough light to introduce C02.
P.S. Doing a 4x4 tent, looking to have enough light to introduce C02.
Dion
Active member
you can ask, if u trust ppl on the internet
Id suggest you just get the vero gen 7s with some meanies and passive heatsinks
as its ur first post ill see if u get back on here and we can run some numbers,
our new member cobkits is well versed in these kinds of questions as well and he sells some wares which you might also consider
When will you be stocking them on your site? If you won't
be do you have a good source to point me to? I was thinking kingbrite through alibaba but they seem to only have 3000k not 35.
Shatterstar
New member
Ok so I think im going to go this route. Where should I go (best prices) and what exactly do I need? Its a 4 x 4 tent so I was thinking 2-4 lights. But what exact models do I need to order? (Vero 29 Gen 7)
REALSTYLES
Member
I'm in the dungeon making some 600w lights with HLG-320H-C1400B.
earthwyrms
Active member
this driver will run 321W, and at 321/1.4 V, listed at 229VOLTS 1.4AMPS (1400mA)
http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HLG-320H-C1400B.shtml
that should run two strings (series) side by side (parallel) of 64 "3W" full spectrum bridgelux chips at 3.578125V per chip (less due to voltage drop), kind of like railroad tracks. someone please help on the resistors, i'll look it up, but the basis without the resistors, to finish it off, looks something like this,
SEE ATTACHED
also, there are COBs, like mentioned, up to 200W. those are already set up to only nee a specified driver (Volts, Amps) and a heatsink.
building these take caution, so as not to be electricuted.
if you just want to get started in the meantime, you can just search verbatim, "9 band led" on ebay, you will find $80 units that are listed as 300W but which are 128W with 12W fan (140W) (sin, running at 500mA might be like this setup actually)
this one is $72.68 now www.ebay.com/itm/PopularGrow-9-Band...ht-Medical-Indoor-Growing-Plant-/181535758573
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