Broad Mites?

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medicalmj

Active member
I've read for hours about the broads an I'm that everyone has posted ! These are by far the worst thing that I have ever had to deal with. I thought that it was TMV for years and had no problem with it. For whatever reason they decided to come to life and completely question my growing skills. I've been battling them for around a month now. I originally hit them with Avid and they laughed at me.. I think they are immune to it now. I have been using Forbid, Avid , Neem and just received Pylon in the mail. I still have them ! I cannot believe these mites.. I have a week left to flip and I'm hoping for the best. I can no longer super crop or top anymore due to celing height. I know every topic has been covered on this , but any final thoughts would be appreciated ..

Just read you tried Pylon...Have a pic? If indeed you have broads and you've had no luck w the chems I suggest predators and a mix of neem and KARANJA oil at 1/2 oz each per gal. Apply weekly.
GL
 

Lemmy

New member
I used Pylon TR. I really think that I've created super broads.. I had to kill genetics that I've had for years. Luckily I selfed one of my favorites a while back. When they first hit, I thought it was a nutrient /ph problem. Once I figured it out, Avid was first in line at 2.5 ml per gallon. I did the usual three day apart spray and could not believe that I still had them. I then started rotating Forbid and avid with better results, but they are still coming back. I hit them with the pylon Tr a week ago. I spoke with a rep from basf and was told that the Tr starts to break down in 3 to 7 days so I hit them with Forbid again four days after the pylon. After what I've just typed i cannot believe that I still have them. They are no joke. I would give anything to have root aphids , PM ,regular mites in flower or anything besides these damn broads! If something is amiss, please tell me !
 

RetroGrow

Active member
I've read for hours about the broads an I'm that everyone has posted ! These are by far the worst thing that I have ever had to deal with. I thought that it was TMV for years and had no problem with it. For whatever reason they decided to come to life and completely question my growing skills. I've been battling them for around a month now. I originally hit them with Avid and they laughed at me.. I think they are immune to it now. I have been using Forbid, Avid , Neem and just received Pylon in the mail. I still have them ! I cannot believe these mites.. I have a week left to flip and I'm hoping for the best. I can no longer super crop or top anymore due to celing height. I know every topic has been covered on this , but any final thoughts would be appreciated ..

Predators. Thousands and thousands of them, depending on room/plant size. A large "bush" can take 1000 predators. Get as many as you can according to your room size. But, remember, the chems you are using will kill the predators also, so they must be used after chems have been applied and dissipated, if that's possible. I would spray the plants good with water several times before releasing the predators. Also, water gets rid of many mites just from the force of the spray. Do this outside if possible. Just wash as many of them off as possible and wash any residual chems from plants before releasing predators. Predators really work if you get sufficient numbers of them. They are hungry and voracious, and will hunt down and eat every mite and their eggs.
 

truecannabliss

TrueCanna Genetics - Selection is art
Predators fuck these little bastards up, i like 50,000 a week in a 6 x 600w light room for a month and they dont come back for a while (avid and forbid are also essential on clones if you want to clear up the issue). You then need to treat babies with chemicals and predators to completely eradicate the problem (especially on little cuts).
Peace
 

Lemmy

New member
Thanks everyone !!

Califorincus it is.. If I can keep hitting them hard this week, hopefully they will stay at bay for a while until the residual's wear off in flower.

I'll post pics if i win the fight...

Thanks again,

Lemmy
 

medicalmj

Active member
Thanks everyone !!

Califorincus it is.. If I can keep hitting them hard this week, hopefully they will stay at bay for a while until the residual's wear off in flower.

I'll post pics if i win the fight...

Thanks again,

Lemmy

Can you get the "triple threat" Phytoseiulus persimilis, Neoseiulus californicus, & Mesoseiulus longipes?
 

Lemmy

New member
Can you get the "triple threat" Phytoseiulus persimilis, Neoseiulus californicus, & Mesoseiulus longipes?

I will ask the store by me. They have a better price then what I can buy online with the amount I need.

I thought that Neoseiulus californicus were effective for Broads. I need to read more about them.

Thanks for the info !
 

RetroGrow

Active member
The other predator to use is SWIRSKI-MITE . Less susceptable to high temperatures.
You can get them here:
http://www.koppert.com/pests/whitefly/products-against-white-flies/detail/swirski-mite-1/
They also have a long duration version that is used as a preventative. They live in your garden and wait for prey. Come in bags with food for them and release over a period of weeks. I haven't used them, as they are relatively new, but they look pretty cool.
http://www.koppert.com/news-biologi...rski-mite-improved-by-unique-breeding-system/

Post back if anyone has tried them.
 
S

sanvanalona

The other predator to use is SWIRSKI-MITE . Less susceptable to high temperatures.
You can get them here:
http://www.koppert.com/pests/whitefly/products-against-white-flies/detail/swirski-mite-1/
They also have a long duration version that is used as a preventative. They live in your garden and wait for prey. Come in bags with food for them and release over a period of weeks. I haven't used them, as they are relatively new, but they look pretty cool.
http://www.koppert.com/news-biologi...rski-mite-improved-by-unique-breeding-system/

Post back if anyone has tried them.


So I cut the most affected plants out and took the room to 127 for over three hours. Should I raise the temps multiple times in order to kill the eggs too? Should I use Avid as well? Any help is much appreciated as I am now determined to beat this, these strains are too good to lose just yet. YOu know.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
So I cut the most affected plants out and took the room to 127 for over three hours. Should I raise the temps multiple times in order to kill the eggs too? Should I use Avid as well? Any help is much appreciated as I am now determined to beat this, these strains are too good to lose just yet. YOu know.

Did you leave the plants exposed to those temps?
They should not have been harmed if you did, but I didn't go quite that high with my temps. I did it multiple times with plants in the room and plants were not damaged at all. I would repeat the process again in three days, while monitoring the effects with a scope to make sure they are dead. You should see nothing but corpses, and nothing moving. Also, eggs should look shriveled up. Without scoping them, you really can't tell what is happening. You did get a scope by now, didn't you? Pain in the ass, but worth it to examine leaves daily with a microscope so you know and can see exactly what is going on and what, if any, progress you are making. But with temps that high, they can't possibly survive. I believe anything over 115 kills them, so 127 should fry them. If you have confirmed death with a scope, you probably don't need to use chems. After the heat treatments are over and you are not seeing any live mites, you can introduce Swirksi Delayed predators to your room. That should keep any new arrivals in check. Hope the heat treatment worked for you so please confirm and report back.
Gotta have a scope to confirm!:)
 
S

sanvanalona

I have an illuminated 30 x but am going to get a microscope today. I could still see a few eggs with the scope, but I will get to posting some micro photos very soon. Thanks again for all the help. Oh and the plants were fully exposed and they loved every minute of the heat, when I went in the room they were all pointing upward towards the light and looking happy for the first time in a long time. I hope this will work, I am thinking by the raw looks it is. get that scope up very soon.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
I have an illuminated 30 x but am going to get a microscope today. I could still see a few eggs with the scope, but I will get to posting some micro photos very soon. Thanks again for all the help. Oh and the plants were fully exposed and they loved every minute of the heat, when I went in the room they were all pointing upward towards the light and looking happy for the first time in a long time. I hope this will work, I am thinking by the raw looks it is. get that scope up very soon.

30X not enough to see these. Need 100X for my eyes to see them good. Some peeps say they see them with 60X, but I would definitely go with the 100X in a cheap scope, readily available @ Radio Shack or Amazon for $10. Or get a real microscope on Amazon in $80-$100 range.
Yup, the heat really works, and plants show it. Now make sure you are dosing with aspirin @ 325 Mg. per gallon of solution. This will mitigate effects of broad mite toxins. Plants should perk up overnight. Let us know what you see when you get your microscope. Absolutely essential when dealing with these microscopic demons, otherwise you are flying blind. Good to hear plants can tolerate 127 degrees F with no problem. Bad news for the mites & their eggs. And all without chems. I would repeat that process every 3 days now that you know the heat causes no problems for the plants, and do it a few times. If you see nothing but shriveled eggs with the scope, you may be out of the woods, but don't stop the aspirin, and keep checking underside of leaves for eggs throughout the grow to be sure they don't come back.
 
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moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
The other predator to use is SWIRSKI-MITE . Less susceptable to high temperatures.
You can get them here:
http://www.koppert.com/pests/whitefly/products-against-white-flies/detail/swirski-mite-1/
They also have a long duration version that is used as a preventative. They live in your garden and wait for prey. Come in bags with food for them and release over a period of weeks. I haven't used them, as they are relatively new, but they look pretty cool.
http://www.koppert.com/news-biologi...rski-mite-improved-by-unique-breeding-system/

Post back if anyone has tried them.
i have been using these for a couple months now. are extremely effective if used in high concentrations, unfortunately they dont range through the crop very well, you have to release them right on top of the broads

spice rack remedies do not work dont even waste your time, essential oils will make your rooms smell good, but wont work against broads
 

truecannabliss

TrueCanna Genetics - Selection is art
Essential oils can kill some of the broads (by suffocation) but wont stop a serious infestation unless you combine with some predators too (and even then you are just keeping them at bay)....also you need to get to the under side of the leaves and saturate to a degree that is not easy.
I am spraying with oils for 2 weeks before releasing 50,000 Swirski mites, should keep things at bay till they are flowered out.
All of my genetics are being rooted now, they will then get dunked in a rotation of avid and forbid before being put into a room that has been sterilised, steamed and heated to 120f. I will then continue to introduce predators for at least the next year to feel comfortable.......i figure this will be an on going battle and my plans are for a rotation and combination of various predators to keep everything clean.

What quantity of Swirski have you been using? I am waiting on 50,000 for a relatively small room (6x 600w) and plan to cover the plants heavily (way more than advised). Can anyone see any danger of too many predators? I figure the more the merrier.
Peace
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Essential oils can kill some of the broads (by suffocation) but wont stop a serious infestation unless you combine with some predators too (and even then you are just keeping them at bay)....also you need to get to the under side of the leaves and saturate to a degree that is not easy.
I am spraying with oils for 2 weeks before releasing 50,000 Swirski mites, should keep things at bay till they are flowered out.
All of my genetics are being rooted now, they will then get dunked in a rotation of avid and forbid before being put into a room that has been sterilised, steamed and heated to 120f. I will then continue to introduce predators for at least the next year to feel comfortable.......i figure this will be an on going battle and my plans are for a rotation and combination of various predators to keep everything clean.

What quantity of Swirski have you been using? I am waiting on 50,000 for a relatively small room (6x 600w) and plan to cover the plants heavily (way more than advised). Can anyone see any danger of too many predators? I figure the more the merrier.
Peace

Remember, the chems & oils will kill the predators too.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
i have been using these for a couple months now. are extremely effective if used in high concentrations, unfortunately they dont range through the crop very well, you have to release them right on top of the broads

spice rack remedies do not work dont even waste your time, essential oils will make your rooms smell good, but wont work against broads

You might want to try the delayed release ones:
http://www.koppert.com/news-biologi...rski-mite-improved-by-unique-breeding-system/
 
S

sanvanalona

So I am on my way to the Bay today to get a microscope among other things. Got the room to 130 for four hours yesterday and one more time this week and I will move on to flower. All of my plants are seemingly much better, lots more growth and it looks normal too. I will update asap, especially when I can see what is going on with all of these.
 
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